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Cheedale
3 June 2010, 6:44 pm

I have spent the last 2 days climbing at the Cheedale cornice. This place isn't often dry so i thought i'd go check it out as i hadn't been for years and the tide was in anyway. Met the Hamer boys and Char down there. Me and Char got on Powerplant, a classic 8a with a hard perplexing crux. First go up was shit for both of us then i got the crux sorted and got through it first redpoint before fumbling and powering out on the upper wall.  I didn't stick the crux move again that day. Next day i fumbled the top wall again. The crux i always felt good on but never executed the move consistently.  Basically it brought it home that i'm not clinical enough. I should have done this route, must improve!!! Char and Sam dispatched:

Char on Powerplant

Andy Hutch on K3:

Mcclure was at Dogs Dinner Buttress. He repeated Pedigree Chum the other day and was now trying the extended low start which adds perhaps another 8c/+ at the end. Pretty meaty, i got some footage of a 'training go'! Always a pleasure watching world class climbers operate:

Mcclure warmed down on Powerplant, i was knacked so buggered off home. Back to the drawing board!

Source: Doylo's blog

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The Roof
5 June 2010, 6:10 pm

Had a great session on my roof project today.  I bolted this last year and have tried the crux finish a few times since.  Went with Nodder and the Ratt today, despite the heat it was cool in the Cave. Me and Nodder had a long sesh on it and we finished beasted. Such a cool route with amazing moves - very sustained and a hard boulder problem right at the end where you don't want it.  Well psyched! Unfortunately a crucial hold on the first hard section is now very loose, i'm going to have to think about trying to pin and resin it.



Source: Doylo's blog

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Pool Of For Nodder!
7 June 2010, 5:24 pm

Nice work to the big guy for crushing Pools, a long held ambition. Footage here of DC doing it:

Got spanked on another 8a, this time on the crack of Over The Moon, got up there first redpoint but couldn't make those rattly jams work! Nails! Went back to the Dulas, started drilling the hold but it wasn't looking good so i resined as much of it as i could which will hopefully do the job. Let the seige begin.

Source: Doylo's blog

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Progress like
9 June 2010, 6:26 pm

Been having a while of a time in my two favourite caves. Made good progress on the roof this week.  Today i did the crux finish with a different sequence that was much more high percentage. Thanks to Nodder for this. Also starting to put a few small links in, unfortunately some of the holds have been a bit slimey. It has been pretty moist and sweaty. In the other Cave i finally got into Rockatrocity from the start of left wall. A much desired moment! Was pretty boxed though. Am slightly concerned that i might be slightly neglecting my Diamond fitness plan with all this upside down climbing.  Its so much fun but i need to keep the bigger picture in mind for August. Too much to do thats the problem!



Source: Doylo's blog

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What a Difference a Week Makes
14 June 2010, 11:17 am

Roll back the clock a week last Saturday i was on the roof with Nodder and Jack. Me and Dave were seiging the moves, doing most of them but it felt nails (i.e. 8b+, 30 day affair!).  The last boulder problem was hard however you do it, with my method involving a very powerful crimp move. This was right at the end of the roof section, i guessed like usual in these situations i tricked myself into thinking it would get easier whereas in reality the beta was to hard for the position.  Fast forward a week and i've just fallen off the last hard move to a jug, hang on, how has that happened????? Never has something felt so much easier in the space of 3 sessions. And thats why this route will always have a special place in my heart, the climbing is amazing and when i finally worked it out it just clicked. I love everything about this route, even the top out through the top of the cave, tis a great summit.  Yesterday was rainy and humid and far too greasy so just put in some linkage.  The main issue i now have with this route is that i have to drag one of the holds and this has already cut my finger, i can't do it with tape cos it slips so i'm gonna have to try some superglue on the wound. Hopefully this will sort it.

Source: Doylo's blog

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One on One Off
17 June 2010, 12:55 pm

Is the new strategy which will hopefully get me up the roof. This way i'm hoping to maximise fresh muscles and skin. Dropped the last move 3 times now, got a massive flapper on the jug on one go. At the end of every session i go to the Cave to finish myself off by trying Pilgrim and other stuff. Then the next day watch footy games. Watch this every morning to get the psyche up:  

Pickles did Masterplan yesterday 2nd redpoint and Dyer scored a hat-trick of 8's downstairs. WIld Understatement, Over the Moon and Mussel Beach (done that one before)

Source: Doylo's blog

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Infanticide 2nd Ascent
20 June 2010, 7:27 pm

Pete Robins did the 2nd ascent of Infanticide 8c down LPT today. This was put up by Neil Carson 15 years ago. He did the direct finish Big Bang 2 years later. Nice one!

I fell off the last move of my roof 3 more times, mental block methinks!

Source: Doylo's blog

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The Redpoint Game
23 June 2010, 9:17 am

Over the last few years i have abandoned most styles of rock climbing in order to improve my redpoint grade in bouldering and sport climbing. I am quite interested in the mental game that is redpointing.  To someone who doesn't understand the issue redpointing can seem like the easy path. After all you can work it as much as you want and have as many goes as you want, doesn't normally matter how long it takes.  This view belies the reality though.  As anyone who has become immersed in the redpoint game will tell you it can be an extremely stressful and thought provoking process especially when at one's limit.  In general like anything in life the more of it you do the better at it you get.  It is my belief that physchological factors are very significant in redpointing and to become good at it it is important to try and master these especially in multi-day seiges.  My most disturbing battle with mental factors that i can recall was in 2003 on Raindogs at Malham.  I can remember when i started redpointing putting my shoes on and feeling incredibly nervous in the pit of my stomach.  I was almost telling myself i was going to fail.  It is these kind of thoughts that it is very important to master.  But what is the perfect redpointing mentality, should you relax? or pump yourself up and try and climb with aggression? I guess it depends on the person and the route/experience.  After a significant seige on something its also important to keep believing that the end will come.  I've spent over 40 days on boulder problems (not as stressful as routes granted) and i suppose belief is the most important physchological attribute.  On my present project i have been pleasantly surprised with how my mentality has held up, especially since i've had so many goes in a short space of time (the ususal recipe for mental burnout). Yesterday i got the good hold but my heel slipped off a bit and i couldn't recover.  This kind of thing is hard to take as luck does play a part. It is important to keep focussed however and most importantly keep positive!

Source: Doylo's blog

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Temple Of Gloom
24 June 2010, 4:16 pm

Headed back to the roof today with Tony, as i said in my previous post mastering the mental side of redpointing is of paramount importance when climbing at your limit. I had held up pretty well on this project but was finally starting to feel a bit stressed with the experience. I think this can happen to anyone after 10 days.  Things were not helped when on my first two goes today i fell off the first fb7a+ boulder problem twice, not a positive sign.  I couldn't wish myself to the top of this route, i had to climb it, it was time to put in a big effort.  I grunted through the start on my next go and was soon at the final fb7a boulder sequence. I had studied the footage this morning and knew what angle my heel had to be at to give myself the best chance.  On previous efforts i had sat on my heel more, meaning the hold looked closer but in reality was harder to get the height needed.  This time i executed the move perfectly, i got the jug clipped and psyched myself for the final falloffable move. The move to the ledge, jug to jug, surely i wouldn't fall here! I made sure i didn't drop it with a final power grunt. I was there sitting on the ledge. Looking up at the final 9 metres of headwall i prayed for no fuck ups. I peeled all the tape off my fingers with my teeth so i would have maximum friction on the holds.  I wiped my feet on my trousers and set off psyched but concentrating hard. Before i knew it i was in the sunshine and the moment that i had desired was here. After my first 4 forays on this line i never thought it would go so quick if at all. And thats why it was such a cool experience! Cheers to all the belayers and to Nodder for the name.  As for the grade well like with any FA it is a stab in the dark, myself and Dyer reckon it probably is 8b. It might turn out to be 8a+, time will tell. I'm really not sure either way and am not that fussed either. Anyway it might get its 2nd ascent tonight, come on Neil!!!!

Some footage:



Source: Doylo's blog

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The Now and the Next
28 June 2010, 11:40 am

Whilst working the Temple i kept telling myself that when i did it i would do my best to enjoy not only the moment but also the aftermath.  Too many of us climbers spend days, weeks and months desiring a specific moment (i.e. completing our projects), yet when we achieve this often the mind skips straight to the next project.  For myself i know i do not spend enough time enjoying the satisfaction of completing a tricky redpoint.  Its totally crazy really!  Over the weekend whilst enjoying my tick i consumed:

1 box of Jelly Babies.

1 Key Lime Pie

1 Pizza

Lots of Galaxy Caramel

Bags of Fizzy Sweets

3 Milkshakes

Feeling pretty sugared out now but was nice to get this out my system after a pretty strict eating regime.  I got pretty stressed on Temple so now i'm trying to relax a bit, got a few things here and there to do but the main plan is to get back to what i was doing i.e. trying to redpoint 8a's and 8a+s.  Need to build up the redpoint fitness as Diamond season is approaching and i have some business there that needs completing.

Back at the Dullas Temple didn't have to wait long for its 2nd ascent. Pete nipped in on his way to Yokshire for a first redpoint tick. Yesterday Neil got it too on his 8th redpoint. At the end of my seige he spent a few days doing links and getting it wired. Good effort lads!

Source: Doylo's blog

[robertostallioni]

Thought this summed it up nicely.



and then I found this.

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Upside Doom/Doomside Up
28 June 2010, 4:40 pm

I've bolted up two lines in the main Cave at Llanddulas.  Upside Doom and Doomside Up share the same lower off in a hole in the roof (a la Giggleswick).  I was hoping the hole would have a jug in it but it wasn't the case so i've left a sling on the lower off, the last move of both routes is to grab the sling.  The right hand line (Doomside Up) is pretty shit cos its basically one move (grabbing the chain).  I did this but it seemed really hard to grade, the last move was quite powerful so maybe its 6c, maybe 7a, i'm really not sure.   The left hand route (Upside Doom) has a bit more sustained tricky climbing on it so is a lot better.  The route is pretty powerful and has some cool moves.  I did it today and think it is about 7c/+.  



Source: Doylo's blog

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Psyche Low
4 July 2010, 8:45 pm

Since the new routes at the Dulas i have hit a bit of a lull.  Psyched fluctuation's are normal over the course of a climbers year.  You can't be bouncing off the walls all the time.  This often will occur after getting a project done, you spend weeks living for a moment and after it comes sometimes you go onwards and upwards to the next one and sometimes you have to take a chill pill for a bit.  I went climbing a few times last week. Once down LPT and once in the Cave.  LPT wasn't too bad, although i couldn't really be arsed.  The cave however was awful, i couldn't even be bothered to hold on long enough to complete a problem! Also its pretty hot right now and theres not much local i actually want to do.  The main factor however is that i need to get some fuckin reddies. Poor is not the word.  My next big focus is the Little Orme in August and to be honest i know what i need to do to get into shape for it. Rock climbing is always good for fitness but i reckon you never get the same intensity as you can by some specific training. I need to be able to complete hard 40 move power endurance.  So i may use this drop in motivation to get into the Mill keep my finger in strength wise and get down with some intense PE training.  I shall hopefully return fit and psyched and ready for battle!  So things might not be as lively on the blogging front in the next month but i shall try and keep any orme news flowing. Keep crushing hombres!

Source: Doylo's blog

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Specificity is the key
10 July 2010, 7:21 pm

This week i have been to the Mill a few times and down LPT twice doing some laps on BB.  I spent a session setting and refining a 40 move circuit. The Mill is great for this as you can cross all 3 boards.  At the moment i'm just trying it from 8 moves in. Haven't quite got it yet.  The feeling it gives your forearms is great! The moves are pretty easy (but its steep) so you can fight until you literally can't hold on any longer.  This is what i need. I'm keen to work up to doing it from the start and then i can either try and lap it or make it harder! I've got time on my side before Diamond season so with 5 weeks of intense sessions hopefully i'll be up to the job! 3 weeks before i will start the DD plan (deadhang and diet). I could also do with getting a bit stronger, am currently woefully weak on the board. Pete did Pantons project in Split Infinity, Simon Says, 8a.

Source: Doylo's blog

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The Mules Got a Boner
12 July 2010, 10:50 am



Source: Doylo's blog

[Jim]

that young man certainly has some wood!

[Fiend]

Jesus Doylo, too much!!

[Doylo]

Ha ha, i had to embarass the mule, couldn't resist. Ah to be young again...

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Pidgeons Cave
12 July 2010, 10:02 pm



Went down Pidgeons this eve with Pete, i've been there a few times over the years but never really got excited about it. I'm not sure why! Probably because the bottom of the routes are quite sandy and it needs rebolting. I've done the 7b Koo before, great steep fun. The harder routes are so steep, proper roofs! George Smith did a great looking 8a here.  One of the harder routes Stark 8a is a Neil Carson route which has resin bolts in it. I dogged up and worked it out, then Pete fell off the last move on the flash. He did it next go. I was finding it pretty tough, the last sequence was a burly boulder problem on undercuts. A true PE route!  Anyway i'm keen to go back for it, give me something to try for a bit. I'm gonna re-equip the place too.

Stark:

Mr Men Undies:

Bit of a shit vid, (too far away)!



Source: Doylo's blog

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The John Dunne of the Orme
19 July 2010, 5:15 pm

The big fella used to fluctuate a stone or two in between routes/seasons. Well i appear to be the same, i've managed to gain 9 pounds since the dulas campaign!

Too much of this:

And not enough of these:

Consequently i feel very weak. Usually there is a 7a+ or two i can do in the Mill regardless, at the mo the limit is 7a. Sweet jeez.  On the upside fitness is more important to me and the circuits are going well, i'm enjoying them too. Managed a shortish 8a one i set a while ago (bit pointless unless your doing it with short rests) but have been doing ok on my longer circuit. Almost managed it the other day, also have a 7b+/c circuit which i've started doing with a 4 minute rest. Would be good to get this done on the minute eventually.  The Diamond season looms. I'm hoping come mid August that my form and the weather take a turn for the better.  This rain has come as a bit of a shock! Hope all your projects are staying dry!

Nodder in the Mill:

I even went multipitch climbing the other day, Bramble Buttress at Tremadog.



Source: Doylo's blog

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Breck Road Footage
25 July 2010, 9:32 pm

Not too much to blog about at the mo. The weathers gone tits up and i'm spending my climbing time clinging to overhanging wood. There is still much work to be done as i attempt to make my training even more specific. Here is some footage from the vault including the amazing Swing of Fire:

A big jellyfish down LPT:



Source: Doylo's blog

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Christopher Doyle Progress Report
31 July 2010, 4:30 pm

The foot was taken off the gas on the training front this week as i had to endure the slight inconvenience of going to work.  I climbed in the Mill on Monday and had a 'comeback' sesh today. Have been hammering the circuits for about 3 weeks now, have definitely made some progress on the PE front.  I'm feeling the need to get on the stone soon though.  Need to make sure that what i have been doing will translate to actual endurance outside.  I really hope i haven't been pissing in the wind!  On paper i should be fitter but you never know with this sport.  My main concern at the moment however isn't if i'm getting fitter or not its the inability of my arms to haul me up hard moves.  I am bizzarely weak at the moment and despite bouldering on the steep board i'm just not getting any stronger.  For the 2nd half of my Diamond project i need fitness, for the first half although i don't need to be a power monster it is always very helpful if you can turn on the afterburners when you hit a hard move.  Anyway i need to get on rock to see where i'm at on the fitness front.  Hopefully i'll soon be stronger soon too, i need to be.  The weather needs to sort itself out too, the Diamond is a fickle beast and any humidity or dampness in the air is bad news.  The good conditions ratio is about 1 day in 3.  The bird ban comes off August 15th so lets hope for some sunny weeks around then.

Source: Doylo's blog

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Ginger Jims Bad Melons
3 August 2010, 4:58 pm

Headed to the Orme today determind to get some rock in. Nodder rang when i was in me pit enquiring about the conditions, all i could see was blue sky. When i turned onto the prom however the Great Orme was descended in mist! Bugger, it was spitting too! Usual story - headed there anywhere, team Llanberis turned up and headed down. Me James and Nodder weren't inspired by the weather so eventually we opted for a do on Simon Says, the new boy of the Orme. James in action:

I struggled with the upper crux (same as last time i tried it). Nodder was looking pretty good though. After we decided to head down Pigeons. I was a bit hesitant,another kicking on Stark was the last thing i needed but i needed some rock time so went for it. You can climb down Pigeons for quite a bit longer than LPT.  Anyway a good session was had by all. Me and Nodder made new highpoints. I fell off the last move one go. Was pleased as it was feeling a lot easier to the last section. Felt like i was climbing it a lot better.  Plus conditions were bon! I'll be going back soon to try and finish it.

After James took a dip in the drink!:

Spoke to Jimmy Big Guns Mccormack who is currently trying to crack Melancholie, he ticked Melancopout the other day and added another training link today.  Bad Melons (8a+) starts up Bad Boy and then traverses into the middle crux of Melancholie which it follows to the top. Nice one la!

Source: Doylo's blog

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LPT sending spree!
5 August 2010, 4:40 pm

Good vibe down on the beach today.  Mussel beach saw a couple of ascents from Blair and Keith and the Dyer crushing train rolled on. He scored a hat trick of 8a+s, Pas de Deux, Melon Beach and Bad Melons.  Bout time he got on something hard if you ask me! Come on Neil pull yer finger out. I had a redpoint if Bad Melons but one of the crux holds was wet and i could do with being slightly stronger. Good link though, should be a goer. Did Bad Boy 3 times. Think the main thing i'm lacking now is a bit of actual stamina. Strength and PE are both reasonable. Had a return to form in the Mill yesterday, could do some of the old favourites again!

Source: Doylo's blog

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Ansteys
13 August 2010, 8:45 pm

Spent the last week down in Devon working on Dartmoor.  It's not often that there are after work climbing options when you're away from home so i was keen to take advantage of being reasonably close to Ansteys Cove.  I always fancied checking this place out so came down a bit earlier on Sunday.  After a five hour non stop drive there was only one thing for it and i jump straight on the famous 8a Cider Soak.  Bit of a harsh warm up but i'm liking the moves, there are some great shapes on it too.  Sparky's dishing out the beta which is very helpful as its quite a complex little number.  I have a few redpoints but my attempts fall just shy of the top break and i vow to return.  Next sesh i meet up with Jon and the exile Ted who has spent the last few months working on Jersey.  I have a few more redpoints and fall coming into the painful fingerlock at the top.  The other route high on my ticklist was the mega Empire of the Sun 7b, its getting pretty dark but i'm dead keen to get it done so jump on.  Love this climb, my favourite 7b in Britain and was nice to flash as i don't flash much these days.  Manage to coax Bob and Tim to another after work hit, first RP i fall going for the flat jug at the end, next up i get the jug, swing my feet, stare at the top of the crag an inch away and then lose my strength and fall! Can't believe i fell here, its been a long time since i can't hold such a jug.  And so the tick gets away and i leave with mixed emotions.  I felt quite fit down there but at the same time the epics on 8as continues - not a good sign for the impending Diamond season!

Jon on Empire:

Me on CS:

The Exile:



Source: Doylo's blog