[Pantontino]

A World of Opportunity!
7 January 2011, 5:56 pm

After saying in my last post that i wanted to knuckle down and tick something hard i'm not so sure now. I had been thinking about some new routes that i wanted to try and today i've been on a mission with Tony all over the shop looking at untouched white limestone. One of the reasons i like North Wales is that it isn't completely climbed out like most the English sport crags and there are still whole crags with nothing on them. Found this cool Frankenjura style bouldering cave with a handful of problems:

Theres also a meaty crag nearby with some big roofs so keen to check that out too. Then we headed down another valley full of crags and found some good stuff including some very hard looking sport climbs.

All i need now is for some expansion bolt company to sponsor me!

At least i've got plenty of reasons to start again.



Source: Doylo's blog

Good to hear your back Chris and keep me posted on these new crags - they sound very interesting.

[Doylo]

How do Mr p its been a while. Have to catch up soon. So much to do and not enough time. Getting keen again!

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Here we go
16 January 2011, 11:44 pm

I went back to Three Degrees of Levitation the other day to give it a belay.  It now shares a belay with the project to the left that i bolted last year and tried a few times.  The climbing involves long reaches on very small holds - too small for me! I might have to enlist a North Wales slatehead to do this one. I bet it turns out to be 7c+! Anyway the crag is nearing completion but i have two more lines to check out.  Then we jumped ship to the latest find.  Tony abbed a line and placed a bolt at the top.  I had a top rope, my first climb since early November.  Two months off climbing may not be unusual for a lot of people but it is a long time for me.  It was nice being back on the stone, top of the route was a really nice wallclimb.  At the top i transferred to the ab rope and came down checking one of the meaty lines.  It was really hard to see if it would go from the ground, i placed a bolt and found a sequence that should work.  Really cool route, need to bolt it all now. Crag development is hard work. Cleaning, chopping your way through vegetation and bolting all take it out of you.  This day reminded me how much i like hanging out at the crag with pals.  A climbing day isn't just about moving on rock.  I like getting home feeling worked after being out all day.  

Today i went to the Indy for my first proper climbing session.  For those who don't know the Indy is a climbing wall on a military base on Anglesey and has the best indoor bouldering in North Wales.  Perfect for getting back into it.  It wasn't long before my feet, skin, tendons and forearms were aching!  I managed a few V2s so hadn't dropped that much.  I might start having a couple of months off every year to rest the body and mind.  Its certainly been beneficial in getting my mojo back recently.

Source: Doylo's blog

[shark]

Here we go
16 January 2011, 11:44 pm
I might start having a couple of months off every year to rest the body and mind.  Its certainly been beneficial in getting my mojo back recently.

Source: Doylo's blog

  Cheryl would be so proud

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Ivan the Responsible
18 January 2011, 6:16 pm

I'm flipping knackered after 2 months of doing nothing more strenuous than push a snooker cue my poor arms have had a shock in the last week! Went to roof crag yesterday with tony.  He drilled his route and lead it. Quite a nice 6b, i think he's called it Throaty:

I stuck some bolts in the crux bottom half of the line i had spied.  I had a go of the moves, they were really good and perfect for my current level. I was excited. I got back on the ab rope and bolted the top half, on the way down i hung on a jug just after the crux to check the clipping position. Suddenly the section of rock i was hanging off parted company with the crag.  The open corner feature was made up of cracked blocks so i went to town on it with my peg hammer until i reached a solid base.  Unfortunately its now 5 grades harder, hopefully it will still go but definetely an 8 now.  Damn it!  Will get on it when i'm a bit stronger. It got dark and we departed.

Today i headed to Three Degrees crag with Norman and my father. Norman has blitzed the place bolting 4 lines. Seeing it look like a proper crag really got me keen to finish it off.  I abbed down and bolted a steep wall. It looked really good with holds just where you wanted. I'm gonna have a stab in the dark and guess 7b+ without having tried the moves.  Then i did the first ascent of Ivan the Responsible, a long 6b+ that my dad had prepared and bolted.  Really good with a crux last move. My arms were feeling fairly jaded.  Norman then pulled his project out the bag.  Clitoris Allsorts (great name eh!) 7a+ is a brilliant little route, nice rock, moves and holds and quite cruxy. A great addition.  Norman is a hoot to climb with, i think my favourite quote when he was in extremis was when he shouted 'come on Norman get a grip you fucking prick'. And he's so well spoken normally! In the list of Ormesman in the 92 Rockfax, Normans entry reads: 'A local climber living in Rhyl who has developed such an obsession with climbing on the Ormes that he has now taken up a night job so that he can be there every single day'.  Anyway it was a great effort. I need a rest day now.

Source: Doylo's blog

[ducko]

good too see your bolting new lines, id like too bolt some of my own one day but im not sure about how too do it and the rules/laws on where you can and cant bolt

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Newbie
22 January 2011, 12:00 am

I've been out every day this week in crag development mode.  I feel very energized, it is definitely  preferable to the sluggish slob syndrome that became me in december, not leaving the flat for 3 days at a time!  I have been drilling, cleaning loose rock, chopping down brambles, inspecting new lines and climbing. Its been like a day job, no long lie ins, get up and get out.  Caught up with this guy:

and this guy:

Wales very own P-Rob came to the crag today.  I was keen to get him onboard as i was keen for someone with small hold techy credentials to do the slate-esque project i bolted last summer.  After warming up Pete made the first flash of Three Degrees confirming that the cool jump is unecessary.  It must be the worst thing for a first ascentionist when a beautiful sequence becomes redundant (not that i could pull on the crimp he used).  Its even worse than having something downgraded (unless of course something is downgraded by two or more grades).  As some consolation he didn't piss the big crux move after the hole. He kept coming up and down not wanting to blow it then comitted and puffed his cheeks and did it.  He got the moves on the project but by the time he could of done it skin was lacking - one for another day.  Norm squeezed in a two bolt newbie at about 6b.  I managed one of my projects but not without a bit of a tussle.  I really like the moves on this route, really good. Its called Shakin Stevens 7b+. Pete flashed the 2nd ascent.  I keep forgetting its only January, shouldn't really be sport climbing nevermind doing first ascents.  Its only just doable if theres no wind and even then its a bit chilly on the tips!

Source: Doylo's blog

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Ormesman of the Week: Norman Clacher, 5 decades on the Orme.
23 January 2011, 12:00 am



I was trying to think of something a bit different i could write about on here every week when i came up with the concept of Ormesman of the week.  What better than to start a short feature celebrating those men who have dedicated weeks, months and years of their lives to climbing on the Ormes.  One of the first obstacles i came across was that although Ormesman is a recognised title in North Wales there is no set criteria that defines what one has to do to gain a key to the Ormesman country club.  Over the years friendships have been broken and many pint glasses smashed in arguments about what constitutes an Ormesman.  The truth is that everyone has there own interpretation.  There are those who have been climbing on the Ormes for decades and those who have had a brief intense relationship with the place.  There are those who just enjoy getting out and ticking some classic routes and then there are those with an insatiable hunger for new lines and leaving there mark.  These days bouldering should be taken into account too but it is on the showpiece cliffs of the area that the true Ormesman cuts his teeth.  So there you go, as vague as a term it is i shall do my best to celebrate the way of the Ormesman.  I'm bound to leave some people out and i only know a limited amount about some so some weeks will be shorter than others.

Norman Clacher

Thought i'd start with Norman as i've been climbing with him recently.  In his late 50s now Norman has been climbing on the Ormes since the 70s.  It's hard to believe when you see him as he only looks about 45.  Obviously after climbing in the area so long Norman has done his share of new routes but he rates Crigyll Outlaws E1 at Seal point as his best.  Crigyll is described in the guide as possibly the best E1 on North Wales limestone.  Norman has been a member of many a first ascent party and other FAs of his include Five Miles Out e4, Adams roof e2 and Mumbo Jumbo 6a.  Norm rates Face Race as his favourite hard route.  Today he was telling me tales of his adventures with Andy Pollitt on the Little Orme.  Norman recollected how they had been on the Great Zawn traverse with Pollitt when they got stuck due to rainfall. Pollitt then proceeded to attempt a 40ft pendulum on an old peg that was bending and flexing to try and reach an escape gully.  Peg failure would have meant a nasty splashdown!  They tried to escape by climbing out barefoot but it was in vain.  Pollitt made an escape up vertical wet grass and lowered a rope down to Norm.  Just an average day out on the Little Orme!  

Despite having 13 grandkids Norm is as keen as ever and played a big part in developing the nearby Penmaen head in recent years.  Norman must be one of the only 70s ormes activists still climbing in the area today and this is testament to his motivation.

Source: Doylo's blog

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Black Wednesday
25 January 2011, 12:19 pm

Abbing down a line and being the first person to touch a hold or guess a sequence is really cool.  Its ace how mother nature supplies us with holds and features and its up to us and our imagination to connect them.  Abbing down the Big Crunch on LPT was cool as that will be another hard classic one day.  Although i guess Carson or Moffatt may have checked out every line down there.  

Yesterday i did the other line i bolted left of Shakin Stevens.  This turned out to be a bit easier but brilliant and probably 7b.  I haven't done that many new routes but this is one of the better ones i've done.  A cool crux starting sequence leads to two jugs and then a hard pocket move.  The finish is what makes it though. The wall slabs in then steepens out on big undercuts and the stiff last jug to jug pull is a great last move.  It went down first RP luckily.  The name is Black Wednesday.  For those North Waleans who may have been wondering where this place is we're gonna keep it under wraps while development is ongoing and there's still lines to do.  It is on private land and although we have a verbal access agreement its worth testing the water a bit longer to see how it pans out.  When it does get publicised properly strict parking arrangements will have to be specified as that was one of the farmers main concerns.

Then i went to the other place on a bolting mission.  There is a line that is akin to a George Smith overhanging Gogarth E6/7 but limestone.  A diagonal undercut groove feature that trends leftwards.  Really cool and unique for a North Wales sport climb.  It was epic sorting it out! Because most of the way underneath me was an undercut roof i had to have my legs high placing a lot of pressure on my hips which were already weighed down with bolting equipment.  I had to dust of my trad rack so i could aid along on cams.  I had a quick go on lead which was also epic, a big block i was standing on gave way and i was left swinging.  I was also left swinging when a cam i was clipped into ripped.  Seriously i can't believe i used to be a trad climber, its so dangerous!  Climbing up massive cliffs and hoping bits of metal that have been stuffed into cracks don't come out when you fall off.  Whats that about, i must have been brave back then.  It climbed really well but the easiest sequence was far from obvious as the whole route is basically a hold.  I figured it out anyway but it was dark at that point and the old king had had enough.  Tricky one to grade, it could feel 7b for the redpoint or flash but i think a pure onsight would be significantly harder and may feel 7b+.  As climbs are graded for the onsight i guess that makes it possibly 7b+. Mmmmm, answers on a postcard.

Source: Doylo's blog

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First Round, First Second
29 January 2011, 12:03 am

Another hard week on the crags.  I bolted two lines on wednesday.  One was a big roof which looked really good but hard to assess from the ground whether it went or not so a bit of a gamble to bolt.  It was hard work sorting it out on my own but i did it in a few hours.  Then i shifted to the other crag and bolted a short steep bouldery thing.  The holds looked ace and i'm sure it will be a nice boulder problem on a rope.  The next day i was out with Norm, he did a new 6a crack and i tried my roof bolt to bolt.  It was flipping cold!  The roof section turned out to be ok but getting over the lip seemed hard but doable, ace! Then i jumped ship again and bolted a not very steep rib feature which looked very thin.  It was almost pitch black as i was sticking the belay in.  After i went to Matts board to see how things were strengthwise.  I haven't worried to much about training yet as i was more concerned with getting my arms used to climbing again.  It been a good stategy as i've been enjoying my climbing.  I was predicatably shit on the board but took heart from the fact that i could almost do the moves on my roof even though i couldn't yet climb den 7a.  Mule did a hard problem, wouldn't it be nice to never be weak!  Today i went out with Robins and Ian.  It was Pete's 3rd sesh on my old project but he pissed it first redpoint today.  The grade is 8a+ and as another Sharma route name parody he's called it First Round, First Second as its shorter than the original and a bit easier! Really cool route and style.

First ascent here:

For the sake of comparison here is the original:

I went to work on my rib project.  It had looked very thin when i bolted it with small holds.  I had imagined it to be like a Homosapien (pen trwyn 7a+) affair.  It turned out to be much harder.  I worked out a sequence that seemed pretty tricky but i could do.  It wasn't very steep but the holds were pretty bad, not really my style.  Before i had a go i set the technical master loose on it to ensure i hadn't missed anything.  Sure enough Pete scrapped two of my moves straight away and used (yes thats right, you've guessed it) a HEELHOOK!  I tried it again and it was much better.  I fell off the last hard move a few times on redpoint then punctured my soft skin in two places so had to stop.  I've had a great time getting out in the last few weeks.  I've enjoyed bolting and checking out new lines despite it being hard work.  I've been trying to appreciate it as it won't last forever and i'll soon be back on those same old holds in the cave or LPT!

Source: Doylo's blog

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Ormesman of the Week: Neil Carson - Brit makes a Big Bang!
29 January 2011, 8:27 pm

Rewind to the mid 90s. Ondra was crimping hard on his rattle developing sick early finger strength, Moony was banging on about overgrading and Mcclure had just had an epiphany that clipping some bolts might be a good idea.  Sport climbing was being fronted by the big hitting global names of Huber and Rouhling.  Four 9as, a 9a+ (Hubers Open Air originally graded 9a) and Rouhling's Akira 9b were at the top of the pack.  9a was the new elite level which only a small number of climbers worldwide had achieved.  Down on the shores of Lower Pen Trwyn in North Wales a little known British 8c redpointer was about to thrust British climbing into the global spotlight and leave his mark on sport climbing history.  The year was 1996 and the climber in question was Neil Carson.

Neil Carson is an Ormesman who had a more transient relationship with the Ormes but whose achievements were extremely significant.  This is not a story of a long term campaign of climbing in the area.  Neil Carson is a North Walean however and grew up near Tremadog.  He started his climbing journey with the usual trad apprenticeship and didn't even clip a bolt for 5 years.  Ben Pritch commented to me that Neil seemed to hit the hard sport climbing scene from nowhere.  One minute he was wandering up mountain E5s and the next he was climbing 8c.  In 1995 Carson got stuck into the Orme and added a handful of quality new routes.  Stark (8a) and Pas de Deux (8a+) were great additions.  Carson straightened out Moon's Seagulls Dilemma with a direct start to give The Walking Mussel (8b+).  The most significant of his additions however was Infanticide (8c).  This started right of Liquid Ambar and shared the finish of Youthanasia.  A great addition but Carson was acutely aware of the possibility of the direct finish which added more steep crimpy climbing to a good pocket before a horrendous crimpy slab of doom to the belay.  He continued to train hard and this became his new goal.  After another year of sustained specific structured training and climbing and after relocating to help him tick his dream route Carson topped out on The Big Bang in late summer 1996.  Carson describes the process, frustrations and obsession in an interview in OTE 65:

How much mental and physical effort did you need to complete that route?

Far too much.  It was extremely frustrating actually.  I trained quite specifically over the winter and when i got back on the route at the beginning of '96 i was pleasantly surprised.  I had gained enough power to do all the moves comfortably, making me think it was going to be a fairly straightforward process exercise to get it completed.  I was hoping to get it done before the arrival of the hot weather, giving me time to concentrate on my preparation for the competitions.  I kept going to Pen Trwyn and getting so close, then it all started going backwards.  I ended up leaving it for quite a long time while the weather was hot.  Mentally it was very annoying.  I constantly wanted to get down there when the conditions would be right.  There was a problem of not knowing when the next good day would be, whether to rest or do some training.  It was driving me mad.  When i eventually did it, i wasn't massively over the moon.  It was more of a case of 'bloody hell thank god'.  Just a total relief.

             

I'm sure most hardened redpointers can identify with these sentiments.  Often when you've invested so much time and emotion, relief is the overiding emotion.  I doubt at the time Carson would have thought his route would still be unrepeated over 14 years on.  You can probably count the number of potential candidates who have tried it on one hand.  Ben Moon had a look and described it as "sick hard".  He called the crux slab boulder problem Font 7c+.  Steve Mcclure's had a quick look too but didn't fancy putting any further effort in.  In recent times Infanticide ascentionists James Mchaffie and Pete Robins have both checked out the upper sequence but both have yet to invest any serious time and effort into the route.  The lack of repeats has given Big Bang a notoriety with a certain global website who know nothing about it speculating that it could be 9a+!!! With the recent LPT renaissance i think its about time this route got repeated.  So any wads out there who are thinking about it you have until the start of August to get it crushed.  After that i will use my remaining pennys to bait and fly Ondra over for a day to bag the 2nd ascent.  And no more complaining about sharp holds!

Source: Doylo's blog

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Wake Up Call
2 February 2011, 9:55 pm

Got out to the roof crag on Sunday after a night out on the sauce with some smelly climbers.  I spent 45 minutes hanging on a bolt hacksawing a piece of metal sticking out the rock a bit close to my roof project (the saw was blunt!).  This is a sign that the bottom of the crag was quarried.  Then i bagged the FA of the diagonal grooves undercut route.  This is really cool and weighed in at about 7b.  It was quite a tussle in the end and the name is Three Stroke Norm (don't ask!!).  Went to the Cave today to meet these aresholes:

It was a bit dark as a result of the temp increase but wasn't a total disaster.  My strength is still a total disaster though and it took a visit to somewhere familiar to bring it home.  I don't get a sense of how strong i am on new moves on a new route or down the Indy.  In the cave every on every move i felt heavy and weak in every department.  Even the old men Jim and Pritch burnt me off!  For me being weak after a couple of month lay off is a different thing to being weak when you've actually been climbing.  In 13 years i've only had more than 2 months off twice and the first was down to injury.  Far from being disheartened i am quite optimistic and looking forward to getting anywhere back to my normal level.  I have extra motivation as 3 out of my 4 bolted projects require a higher level of strength than i've got now.  Plenty of reasons to gain strength.  I really need to get to it now though and shock the body with some pull ups and fingerboarding.

Source: Doylo's blog

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Ormesman of the Week: Rowland Edwards - Early Activist.
5 February 2011, 11:00 pm



Climbers had begun to sample the climbing on the Ormes by the late 60s but the first man to fully appreciate the potential of the place and take the bull by the horns was Rowland Edwards. Rowland was working at Plas-y-Brenin and started to make increasingly frequent trips to the Ormes in 1969.  After climbing his first new route Gillies Groove on the Allotment on the Little Orme, Rowland embarked on a campaign of new routing and exploration in the area.  As well as adding many free routes, Rowland established some long hard aid lines which would eventually significant free routes.  1970 saw him establish the line of Detritus on the Little Orme.  This featured 200 metres of difficult climbing and took many years before it saw a free ascent from John Dunne.  In 1972 Rowland also spent 16 hours establishing Wall of the Evening Light which would also gain classic status as a free route at 7b+.  The best discovery during this period however was undoubtedly the magnificent Catell-y-Gwynt.  This big imposing sheet of white limestone beneath the lighthouse on the Great Orme provided early inspiration to Rowland and co.  The first route forged up the crag was Central Pillar which wasn't freed until 1983.  In 1975 Rowland established New Dimensions on the Gwynt which was to gain classic status on a national level.  Jim Moran used chalk on the 3rd ascent which some believed invalidated his ascent!  How times have changed!  Rowland returned the following year to make the first free ascent at E4.  In 1976 Rowland became the first person to produce a guidebook to the area.  He had planned to do one earlier but was threatened with legal action by Mostyn Estates who have owned most of the land in Llandudno for 500 years.  This highlighted the fact that climbing on many of the crags in the area was still a contentious issue and significant access negotiations would be needed in the years to come.  In the late 70s Rowland scaled down his activities in the area and after graduating as a teacher he moved to Cornwall to open a rock climbing school.  Rowland eventually established his climbing school on the Costa Blanca where he is now based.  His thirst for new routes hasn't subsided and with his son Mark he developed many new climbs in the area.  Rowland kickstarted the new routing on the Ormes and showed the way to the locals who would eventually continue his good work.

Source: Doylo's blog

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Bolt Stuff
6 February 2011, 10:37 pm

We will hopefully have some new areas opened up on the Orme soon as some of the banned areas are reassessed by the council with the input of BMC access rep Elfyn Jones.  This means a lot of re-equipping.  Check out Raymondos article about lime stuff Here. Donations mean safe routes and new areas so keep donating.

Jesus it has been pissing down here for days now.  The coast is wet but not as wet as the hills.  Driving to Plas-y-Brenin last night it felt like all hell and damnnation was raining down on me.  Had to go home the long way round as a car and driven into a river across a flooded road and got stuck.  After a late start i headed out for a mooch about.  Bolted one and a half routes and went to gorgy's board which i managed to climb on for over an hour all on my own!  I never could of been arsed to climb inside on my own last year.  All my projects have given me a desire to improve and reach mediocrity!

Source: Doylo's blog

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Footage
7 February 2011, 8:09 pm

I was trawling through the archives when i came across some footage of my strongest moment of last year.  I remember i had just come up from finishing bolting The Big Crunch on LPT and was expecting to be completely knackered but in actual fact felt really light and had a new high point in the Cave.  Such sustained hardness seems alien now but its some inspiration to look back on.



Source: Doylo's blog

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Craftnant Circuit
9 February 2011, 10:32 pm

Back in 2003 i went up to the Craftnant valley with the old king to go trad climbing.  We got to the base of the cliff (can't remember name) and i was eyeing up a steep e2/3 cracky thing (Phoenix??).  Truth be told though i couldn't really be arsed. It was cold and windy and my attention was caught by the nearby boulder field.  We went for a mooch and it turned out to be quite a big boulderfield.  It seemed to have some potential despite the many horrific landings.  I returned with the Cattells to try the line that was to become Wonderwall.  They did the moves before me (or course!) and were chomping at the bit to climb it but were holding back to allow me the first ascent. Talk about pressure!  It was my pride and joy at the time although these days its not really what i look for (nice line but fucking sharp). I gave it a ridiculous grade of V7 (it was harder).  We returned with Katzy who bagged Cruella (7b/+).  Danny did Grasswind at 7c which is a very nice problem and one of the only good landings there.  I returned a few more times and did a few more problems.  Last year i took floppy Chris up there and he was jumping around like a kid in the sweet shop spotting hard lines.  He started going up with Nodder and others and many of the remaining problems were polished off including these hard beauties:

Special K

My Own Private Idaho

So its seems that its a bit of a venue now with loads of problems.  A video of mine has been on the Beardown Productions site for years but someone asked me about it today so i uploaded it to youtube.  Along with Nodders vid of a few of the newbies here it is:  

New Stuff:

Old Stuff:



Source: Doylo's blog

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Hard Week
11 February 2011, 11:10 pm

Phew, i had another hard week out on the crags.  Wednesday was spent bolting a 20 metre line.  It took me 4 hours straight to clean and bolt it.  I spent hours smashing any suspicious looking bits of rock with the peg hammer until they fell off.  It is a nice crag but needs a fair bit of cleaning.  The next day i almost came to a sticky end trying to get to the top of a mini crag i found.  I tried to get established in a easy looking gully but it was too wet and slippy so i ended up yarding up a steeper wall aping between tree branches.  I ended up staring at the top with a comitting move about 8 metres up.  I was about to stand up on the wet footholds when i had a reality check and realised i was about to kill myself just to get to the top of a little craglet and it probably wasn't worth it.  I awkwardly got my harness on and abbed off a tree, idiot!  Then i took my harness off and walked to the top round the other side, idiot!  Then i went to meet Norm at Three Degrees crag.  I hadn't been here since that day with Robins and was keen to tick the rib project now that my skin was better.  I put two bolts in my 6b+ Ivan the Responsible as it was a bit run-out then got on my route.  First RP i cocked it up then i got it next go.  The name is Jumbo Loving (cos we all like a bit of Jumbo Loving!) and its probably 7c.  I really this route despite it not really being my style.  I was pleased as i was a bit stronger than 2 weeks ago so some small progress.  Just got to get the route to the right now in a month or two and all the bolted lines will be complete.  Finished off with Clitoris Allsorts 7a+ which is defo a mini classic.  I have continued to train at night, did a night of pull ups and two sessions on Gorgy's board which i'm really into.  I haven't had any real love for overhanging bits of wood for years and it would be very handy if i got some sustained love now as this is the best way to get really strong.  And if you're enjoying yourself and into the climbing it doesn't even feel like a hard slog that you have to force yourself to do.  Being psyched for board climbing is basically cheating!  I spose its good now because i've got so much more improvement to come to get back to normal.  Motivation might be a bit harder to come by when i eventually plateau at den 7b like usual.  Today i was out with Tony at my little craglet i found.  Despite being fairly small i have a soft spot for this place as it is my first crag discovery.  I spent hours knocking off a lot of loose blocks of the top of the crag, as i get clearing them more were revealed underneath.  They weren't on the routes but you have to get the top of the crag as free of loose rock as possible to ensure the safety of others.  I eyed up 3 nice little routes and Tony bolted a couple.  My unspectacular little crag:  

I've bolted 12 lines this year already. For those of you wondering why i've bolted so many and only climbed 5 of them well the answer is that a few of them are slightly wet (it is February after all); a few are a little to hard for my current abilties and also i want to get as much bolted as i can before the next bout of work so i don't have to spend my weekends drilling when i want to be climbing.  Right time for a weekend of culture and relaxation.  I've started having dreams about drilling rock so will be good to do something else!

Source: Doylo's blog

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Craftnant Invaders
12 February 2011, 9:12 pm

A team of English invaders headed up to Craftnant today. Sausage had a good day flashing Wonderwall and ticking Cruella and Grasswind and a ten minute ascent of Special K.  Jordan then flashed Special K!  Sausage said 7b for Wonderwall and Cruella.  Wonderwall probably will feel 7b if you can lock off on small crimps on a steep wall but i reckon most 7b climbers would have a tussle with it post break.  It would be v10 in hueco thats for sure. Good to see the place getting some attention.



Source: Doylo's blog

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Ormeman of the Week: Pete Harrison - Services to Re-equipping.
13 February 2011, 5:00 pm

Ever had a good idea but then come to the decision that it’s too much like hard work?  There are plenty of things we'd all love to do but actually getting around to it is often one step too far.  Well this isn't the case for this weeks Ormesman of the week.  Rebolt LPT and lots of upper drive routes - check. Establish 90 metre horizontal line across the little Orme - check.  Decide to write a North Wales Limestone guide with all proceeds going to the bolt fund - check.

Pete Harrison is a man who doesn't mess about.  Once he's decided on doing something he just gets on with it, no faffing or procrastination.  I only came across Pete on the Orme a few years ago.  He grew up in the area but had time away in the armed forces and a stint living in Canada.  I was on the pavement and I could see this guy on Mumbo Jumbo area on a rope doing some rebolting.  It was to become a familiar sight.  Pete soon took his re-equipping mission down to LPT.  The bolt situation on LPT was quite inconsistent.  The majority off the routes had good eco bolts but there were plenty with rusty old expansion bolts that desperately needed replacing.  Some routes were well bolted but had one or two shit bolts that needed replacing.  Pete started on the right side of the crag and worked his way leftwards making sure every route had decent resin bolts.  A few routes were fully bolted but relied on the odd wire placement (e.g. Face Race and Mean Mother).  These were bolted properly so you could leave your rack on the ground.  I had placed a few bolts on a few of the harder routes and had rebolted Liquid Ambar but these were mainly for selfish reasons as these were climbs I wanted to try.  Pete did his bolting for the good of the crag and as a result 2009 and 2010 turned out to be golden years for LPT.  Nearly every route had chalk on it and routes like Parasite and Walking Mussel that had basically been ignored for years were seeing attempts.  I would be in the cave staring down at LPT watching this guy dangling above the sea with the petrol drill.  

Over the years a few people had suggested the idea of establishing a hand line across the Craig-y-Don seawalls to gain access to the Diamond on the Little Orme.  This crag had hardly been climbed on for 20 years despite its impressive walls, existing routes and projects.  It would surely become a forgotten crag if some reliable form of access wasn't established.  When Pete heard the idea he decided he would crack on with it.  The logistics of establishing a horizontal line like this on your own is beyond me.  It took Pete a lot of effort and he did indeed have some worrying moments with knots stuffed into cracks facing huge pendulums etc….  Pete placed resin bolts across the walls and linked them with static line.  The end result was brilliant, the hand line was perfect and finally we could go to the Diamond without getting wet and have a decent amount of time at the crag.  I for one was over the moon after a few dodgy moments wading in and out and the sinking dingy escapade with Mawson.  I could also try The Brute project after rebolting it a few years previous.  A new generation of Orme climbers could experience the Diamond for the first time and this amazing crag provided a brilliant new alternative to LPT.  Of course Pete didn't stop there and did some more re-equipping.  This year he rebolted the classic but neglected Wall of the Evening Light so that should get some attention next season.  It sounds amazing!  A lot of work happens on Pen Trwyn checking the lower offs for the BMC; Pete has been one of the main people doing this along with Andy Boorman and Chris Parkin.  This is also essential work which is time consuming.  

Back in November I was told that a group of locals planned to release a lime guide with the proceeds going to the bolt fund.  It came as no surprise to learn that Pete was spearheading this project and was doing the bulk of the work putting the guide together.  He has spent a lot of hours cutting his teeth with the software and co-ordinating the efforts.  I’m sure it will be a great guide.  

So after reading this I’m sure you’ll agree with me that Pete’s efforts in recent years have been outstanding and that the Orme and all us climbers owe him a debt of gratitude for his efforts.  I would say buy him a pint when you see him but he’d probably rather you just give the money to the bolt fund!  Nice one mate, you’re probably blushing reading this you modest git.      

The drilling machine:



Source: Doylo's blog

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Ormesman of the Week: Dave and Chris Lyon, new route machines!
19 February 2011, 8:52 pm

In the late 70s two local brothers Dave and Chris Lyon, hit the Orme new routing scene with a vengeance and continued Rowland Edwards' good work in the area.  Dave in particular would put up new routes across the Ormes and would become the areas most prolific new router ever!  The Lyon's left their mark on nearly every crag over the next 20 years.  The brothers began development on Crinkle Crags and Wonderwall and scaled the walls of the Little Orme putting up new routes.  Norman told me that he went to stay at their place one night and as soon as the clock struck 9 the TV went off and it was lights out for an early start.  True professionals!  They bucked the trend of development above the road and put up the first route on LPT, Twisting by the Pool E4.  Despite adding another route Jacuzzi, Jive the crag was largely ignored for another year before things really kicked off in 84  Chris became disillusioned with the climbing scene but Dave continued to put up new routes throughout the 80s and this culminated in his ascent of Ocean of Emotion 7b+ on Detritus Wall.  This went into the 92 Rockfax as the only 4 star route.  If you can get it guano free this is a brilliant adventure sport climb.  Dave still owns Lyon Sport in Llandudno.

Source: Doylo's blog

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The Big One
20 February 2011, 11:19 am

After bolting 15 routes this year i wanted to finish this bolting campaign with a big project.  During the many days i spent trying Temple of Gloom in the main cave at Llandulas last year i spent a fair amount of time eyeing up the line to the right.  There was another obvious weakness which looked just as good if not better.  I went up a few times this year to have another look.  It's even more dark and gloomy in there in winter so it was hard to see much.  I returned with my clip stick and aided up the new 6b that starts on the right and climbs diagonally into the top of Zoidberg.  I abbed off an appropriate bolt and came down the finish of the line.  There seemed to be many potential holds and sequences, just the ticket!  I returned again with the drill and bolted the end of the route.  I spent the next few weeks pestering Tony as i needed a ladder off his van to bolt the roof sections.  Unlike Temple of Gloom no one had looked at this line before so there was nothing in the roof to assist bolting it.  Tony sacrificed his Saturday morning and we slogged up the muddy hill with the kit and ladder.  I ended up sticking five bolts in the roof section.  It was very interesting to see the holds close up and feel them.  My first impression was that it seemed a bit harder than i had imagined from the floor.  The intitial depressions only yielded a couple of holds and i had to prise off some loose stuff that i had expected to use.  However there seemed to be a sequence, that was the main thing.  You can never tell without trying these things properly but i'm optimistic that it will go down.  If i can crack the start i'm sure it will go.  A seige is not a problem, if this is what it requires a seige i'm the man for the job.  I'll probably hold off trying it til i'm climbing a bit stronger again.  It looked brilliant and it actually steepens a bit sooner than Temple.

Happy with my efforts i went off to do some bouldering at a little bouldering cave we'd found.  There was a hard project there which i was really keen for.  It was just what i liked, steep limestone overhang with a big crux move off a lovely small pinch.  I knew i wouldn't be up to it at the moment but i was keen to see what it was all about.  After doing two very nice easier problems i had a go.  There was some mud in the back of the pinch so i scraped it out.  It had become a much juggier pinch which didn't upset me too much.  I tried to pull on and the flipping hold came off.  I should have replaced the mud with resin.

Darn, well you can't win em all!  Off to work again next week so i've handed the bolting baton over to Norm and Tony!

Source: Doylo's blog

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Ormesman of the Week: Colin Goodey - The Original
27 February 2011, 11:13 am

Colin Goodey is the original Ormesman.  He started the ball rolling and was the first man to venture onto the Orme with climbing in mind.  In 1947 at the age of 11 Colin and his brother started bouldering and top roping on some small crags at West Shore.  Colin lived close to the Orme and transport and finances meant that getting to Snowdonia was very inconvenient.  In the Summer of 1950 Colin led the first route on the orme with a single 100 foot length of manilla rope and nailed boots.  The route was Pigeon's Chimney VD on the Toll Gate Crags.  Colin rates the best new route of those early days as Colin's Groove VS which was put up in August 1952.  By 1956 Colin and friends had motorcycles and so extended their climbing to Snowdonia.  They returned in 1958 to practise their pegging for a trip to the Dolomites.  By 1960 they were pegging across the huge roof at Elephants Cave.  Colin also discovered Craig-y-Forwen and Castle Inn Quarry.  Colin is in his 70s now but is just as active today.  He has developed quite a few new routes on the slate and Tony even caught him sniffing around a new venue on the Orme the other day.  Once an Ormesman always an Ormesman!

Colin with the old king:



Source: Doylo's blog

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A Trifle Lazy
27 February 2011, 11:33 am

I was glad to be back at work this week as the finances were getting rather stretched to say the least.  The plan was to cane the training after work.  I did some pull ups the first night but faded the rest of the week.  I just couldn't be arsed! Pascal was on the beastmaker for and hour and a half every night and i was sat down eating trifle.  I just enjoy sitting down and couldn't make myself do it.  If there had been a board i would have been all over it but sometimes i struggle with motivation for pull up bars and fingerboards.  I knew it was bad news and wasn't expecting much from climbing yesterday.  Headed to Three Degrees Crag with Spidey.  This place has been seeing a lot of use by the locals who are loving it.  A few were there yesterday including Dave who works at my old haunt Prestatyn Leisure Centre.  This was the first climbing wall i started using, me and the Cattells had some meaty stamina circuits.  Dave has climbed on this crag quite a bit over the years top roping bits and bobs, he climbed here with Andy Boorman and Andy Pollitt as far back as the 70s. Spidey got stuck into Clitoris Allsorts and got it bagged.

I tried my remaining project there, a boulder problem on a rope affair.  I had tried it briefly before but it was a bit too powerful.  Yesterday i spent a bit longer on it and did the moves. Need more strenght to link it though.  The holds and the moves are ace.

Then we jumped ship to its neighbour where i have two more projects.  One is a meaty roof and corner which i had tried a few times but not done all the moves.  This time i got the moves quite quickly and some links.  It didn't feel quite as hard as i had first thought and i discovered some better beta.  It is flippin brilliant though and it feels ace to climb on.  Should go down pretty soon.

Source: Doylo's blog

[Pantontino]

Ormesman of the Week: Colin Goodey - The Original
27 February 2011, 11:13 am

Colin Goodey is the original Ormesman.  He started the ball rolling and was the first man to venture onto the Orme with climbing in mind.  In 1947 at the age of 11 Colin and his brother started bouldering and top roping on some small crags at West Shore.  Colin lived close to the Orme and transport and finances meant that getting to Snowdonia was very inconvenient.  In the Summer of 1950 Colin led the first route on the orme with a single 100 foot length of manilla rope and nailed boots.  The route was Pigeon's Chimney VD on the Toll Gate Crags.  Colin rates the best new route of those early days as Colin's Groove VS which was put up in August 1952.  By 1956 Colin and friends had motorcycles and so extended their climbing to Snowdonia.  They returned in 1958 to practise their pegging for a trip to the Dolomites.  By 1960 they were pegging across the huge roof at Elephants Cave.  Colin also discovered Craig-y-Forwen and Castle Inn Quarry.  Colin is in his 70s now but is just as active today.  He has developed quite a few new routes on the slate and Tony even caught him sniffing around a new venue on the Orme the other day.  Once an Ormesman always an Ormesman!

Colin with the old king:



Source: Doylo's blog

Colin is still mad keen - he rang me up the other day to pick my brains about one of the crag xs on the Ormes that he is lining up for development (wonder if this is the same place that Tony saw him?). I hope I'm that active when I get to his age!

By the way there is still a good 7C/+ boulder problem project to do at this forgotten old venue.

[nodder]

a pint for the knowledge?