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Dumby Clean-Up Weekend
10 April 2013, 6:39 am

 Saturday 20th April and Sunday 21st April. 10am - 4pm.

Please come and show your support for Dumby by lending a hand getting the place cleaned up along with the local people of Dumbarton. The idea is to pick up litter and get the place looking a little tidier and maybe do some anti-erosion work below the problems, as well as some other work in tandem with West Dunbartonshire Council. There will be a BBQ set up to make a focal point which will be selling food and drink for after and some climbing may even happen! It shouldn't interrupt your climbing plans other than making you feel guilty for not cleaning and going climbing instead, but that's fine, you can join in for a bit if you're there.  

Things will kick off from 10am on Saturday 20th April and Sunday 22nd at the waterfront area beneath the Eagle Boulder where the BBQ will be set up. Some bin bags, gloves etc will be provided but if you could bring your own that would be great. Exact details of what will happen each day will be announced here: TCA Facebook Event and you can sign up to attend there as well.  

Let's get Dumby looking how it should!  

 A previous clean-up at Dumby...  

Source: Stone Country Blog & News

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'The Boulder - A Philosophy for Bouldering' by Francis Sanzaro
10 April 2013, 2:28 pm





Just published and now available! The new publication from Stone Country - 'The Boulder: A Philosophy for Bouldering' by US climber and philosopher Francis Sanzaro - is a paperback edition of 192 pages, with photographs, and features a foreword by none other than John Gill, perhaps the original guru of proper bouldering. Here is how he endorses the importance of this book:

"Finding a climber who perceives bouldering as a moving meditation, or one who values form and style far beyond difficulty, is a daunting task . . . bouldering needs its own analytical literature. In this book, Francis Sanzaro takes a significant step in that direction."

To read more about the book and the author, visit the Stone Country website where there is a preview of the book and an interview with the author.

TO BUY >>>

For UK boulderers (only) the book is available at a special website price of £9.99 plus PandP (it retails at £12.99), which is cheaper and faster than Amazon!



For US boulderers the book is available at a special price of $18 plus $7 PandP (total $25), we will post airmail and you should have the book within a week or two:



For Europe and ROW, the book can be bought through our distributors at Cordee >>>

Source: Stone Country Blog & News

[Duma]

Really enjoying this so far, just wanted to say it really was pretty quick service- ordered late Wed eve, arrived first thing Fri. 
No cryptic crossword analogy yet though (I'm only about quarter of the way through), which is one of my favourites for bouldering.

[comPiler]

Dumby Clean-Up 2013
21 April 2013, 11:26 am

 Well, it's all done folks, so no need to turn up on the Sunday. The weather was clement, the Council had strimmed back the brambles and we got amongst it, lifting litter, clearing fire pits, dumping old fences and carpets, rolling rocks, re-drifting driftwood, discovering odd items (satellite dishes, grit bins, lifebelts, the usual Inverclyde 'sharps' floating on the currents from across the water etc.).

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]...after 30 minutes...[/td][/tr]

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The effort was led by West Dunbartonshire Council's Linda Adam, the local Community Greenspace Office, and we were provided with rakes, high-viz vests, bin-bags, grabbers, gloves, pruners and a simply massive skip which is still at the back of the football stadium, so please do continue to gather litter as you find it and dump it in the skip. Chris Houston filmed the effort and will add to a forthcoming film on the history of climbing at Dumby.

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Linda Adam - co-ordinating Greenspace Community Officer[/td][/tr]

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The areas cleared included the boulders and crags, the 'forecourt area' in front of Eagle boulder (now a very flat and open 'picnic area') and the shoreline area from Sea Boulder all the way along the old metal fence, which we hope to flatten and remove in the near future on consultation. We didn't quite sate the skip, but certainly filled its belly.

TCA provided a fine barbecue for hungry litter-hands, despite a high wind threatening a complete re-litter! Raffle tickets were sold to add to a prospective Dumby Fund and some climbing was done in the new 'bouldering park'. More details will be posted soon on the development work at Dumbarton Rock, as climbers join an action group called the 'Rock Liaison Group' whose first meeting is in May and features local walkers and community partners, West Dunbartonshire Council, TCA manager Rob Sutton and myself from Stone Country, Historic Scotland and possibly other concerned parties (local geology and history groups) - all moving towards opening up the climbing area as a promoted and tended, if currently unofficial, 'park'. The John Muir Way is scheduled to be extended to Helensburgh and will curl round the shores of Dumbarton Rock, I think John Muir would be proud to add Dumby as a site of such historical sporting heritage.

Thanks to all who turned up and lent a hand... well worth it and the difference made was significant.











Source: Stone Country Blog & News

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The Boulder book - interview with author Francis Sanzaro
23 April 2013, 6:54 am

  Here's the interview with 'The Boulder' author Francis Sanzaro - a fascinating insight into how to use thinking as a 'mental coaching' approach to  better bouldering. The book is available for purchase on the Bookshop Page >>>



Source: Stone Country Blog & News

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Dumbarton Bouldering Video from Chris Houston
4 May 2013, 9:04 am

   Latest update on Dumbarton and the clean-up in a fine piece of film by Chris Houston, capturing some of the problems as well  - post-graffiti!  



Source: Stone Country Blog & News

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Glen Croe - Spring 2013
8 May 2013, 4:17 pm



Glen Croe has seen and will see some big new lines this year. Some big stones on the flanks of the Arrochar Alps should best be attacked in May before the dreaded beasts that can't be named...

Alex Gorham managed the overhang right of Precious to give Semi-Precious 7c+/V10. He says on his blog about how much easier it is to climb in daylight:

'I did manage to pop out and nip up a climb I had only tried with a head torch before in Glen Croe. By headtorch it felt pretty hard but in daylight I found all these new holds that made the whole thing easier. It’s by no means a king line but it felt good to pull hard in good conditions on really small holds, culminating in a cool jump. So between the bouts of literature induced insanity, Semi-Precious (V10) was born, a line just to right of the popular classic-of-the-crag, Precious.'

That backwards leap looks crazy. The pic by Jen Randall (nice shot, Jen, it's hard to get the light right here) also reminds me to dig out my Saltire mats... !





Source: Stone Country Blog & News

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Scottish Bouldering Update Spring 2013
24 May 2013, 5:44 pm

 

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Boulder-prospecting on Islay...[/td][/tr]

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A long, cold winter extended the bouldering season into a chilly spring lasting well into May. If there is still ski-ing into May, it means then there is still good bouldering to be had.

The main news is Dumbarton Rock has had a face-lift. Local climbers, the MCoS, the TCA and Stone Country all worked hard with Historic Scotland and West Dunbartonshire Council to begin a long process of 'refurbishing' the crag and boulders in tandem with a local riverside development plan. First off was a scrubbing of most of the graffiti on the boulders, returning the rock to its unusual foundation of pitted orange basalt. After that a mega clean-up session saw the crag transformed into quite a pleasant 'green corner'. We plan to keep it that way.

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Suckers Boulder with new face[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]TCA BBQ after the clean-up[/td][/tr]

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Back to the bouldering. In Glasgow, Alex Gorham and others have been slowly unearthing the ptential of what is just called 'The Dark Side' by those in the know. More details will be revealed soon, but some fine sandstone lines have been discovered not more than 30 minutes from the city centre. It's only good in windy, dry weather in spring and summer, which is just what we have at the minute. The crags and boulders here were discovered years ago by Willie Gorman but he thought them too green to bother with. Not any more!

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]'The Dark Side' new venue: John Watson on an unnamed 7a+ classic line[/td][/tr]

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In the North-East the Aberdeen seacliffs continue to be developed in terms of bouldering and sport routes. the bouldering at Pow Kebbuck, amusingly called Sharmasheugh by locals, seems to be the highlight of the season, with elegant roof problems providing the meat of the action. Luke Fairweather climbed the hard Dr Inferno at 8a, repeated by Marcus Bean. Tim Rankin did some burly rock-shifting to clear the Light Bulb bloc at Clashfarquhar, opening up several plum lines including the 7c of Neon. Photo topo below.

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Sharmasheugh: Dr Inferno 8a[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Clashfarquhar: Light Bulb Boulder[/td][/tr]

[/table]  A new guide for Torridon bouldering, from Richie Betts and Ian Taylor, should be with us soon, and Torridon has had a continuous gold rush of new lines, almost too many to mention. Richie Betts repeated Stokes Croft, a fine 8a on the upper tier. We are all just fiercely jealous to be so far from Torridon as every weekend seems to see a new 5 star classic!

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Torridon: Castaways by Nigel Holmes 6b+[/td][/tr]

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Dan Varian, with film-maker Nick Brown in tow, has been mopping up the big unclaimed lines in Scotland. He has just completed two new 8as at the sickeningly-steep Carrick Castle bloc (next to the giant bloc with the sport route Trench Warfare). The main line is a traverse called Marra Time, traversing from a stand in the middle of the face to the left arete.

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Marra Time at Carrick Castle (Dan Varian's new 8a): Photo by Nick Brown[/td][/tr]

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Dan also climbed the 'futuristic' boulder at Ardgour saying it went at an amenable 7c, but a truly hard line still lies on this impressive bloc. He also claimed a direct line left of Precious in Glen Croe, bagging it another hefty grade of 8a.  A variation of Precious was climbed by Alex Gorham to give 'Semi-Precious' 7c+ (see the excellent wee vid).

from Alex Gorham on Vimeo.  

In Edinburgh, it's worth checking out the Currie Wa's exhibition at water of Leith Visitor Centre. David Buchanan has a small but fascinating exhibition of photos and texts of the Curre Wa's, used by Dougal Haston and friends to boulder in the 50s and 60s. Most walls are now overgrown but some can still be climbed. I'll post some more photos soon on this historical bouldering curiosity soon.

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Dougal haston on Spike Wall on Edinburgh's Currie Wa's[/td][/tr]

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Paul Whitworth and friends have developed some bouldering at Levenwick in Shetland. The sandstone roofs look terrific quality, if you happen to be that far north. UKC details here.

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Levenwick Bouldering wall on Shetland (Pic courtesy Paul Whitworth)[/td][/tr]

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Craigmaddie in Glasgow has seen some new lip traverses, taking the problem count to well over 50. Not many rate this venue, but if you stare harder, you begin to see more. It's a terrific outlook as well, and for rock-starved, Dumby-hrting Glaswegians, it's the perfect antidote.

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]The Short Haul, 6b traverse at Craigmaddie[/td][/tr]

[/table] Dave MacLeod is back bouldering like stink in the Arisaig Cave, working some very meaty project traverses and straight-ups. He's going to post a topo soon, but make sure you're climbing 7c to 8b if you want to take anything away from here, it's proper steep!

[tr][td][/td][/tr] [tr][td]Arisaig Cave project: Dave MacLeod

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Dark Side bouldering...

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Source: Stone Country Blog & News

[andy_e]

Great update John. The Dark Side looks fantastic, that 7A+ looks superb and baffling! Good effort to Safe Betts for doing Stokes Croft too. Keen to get to Sharmasheugh next time I'm up that way...

[Fiend]

Good report. Hurry up with the Dark Side information!!!

[SA Chris]

+1

Levenwick stuff looks a bit like Katy's Leap.

[richieb]

Great update John. The Dark Side looks fantastic, that 7A+ looks superb and baffling! Good effort to Safe Betts for doing Stokes Croft too. Keen to get to Sharmasheugh next time I'm up that way...

Thanks. I should point out the way I did stokes isn't 8A. Dark side looks good, cool there are still venues like this getting developed near to Glasgow.

[SA Chris]

You lanked it?

[richieb]

  not this time. I might have lanked the walk in though.

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Rum Bouldering Guide
30 May 2013, 7:14 am

     

Rum is a magical island and one of Scotland's finest bouldering venues, with some simply awe-inspiring stones. Hamish Fraser and friends have developed most of the bouldering here, best left to Hamish to introduce:

'Rum is part of the small isles situated west of Mallaig. For years it has attracted many geologists for its interesting rock formations but hasn't had much attention by climbers, let alone boulderers. Thanks to the Bouldering in Scotland guide I first explored the island in 2008 and was amazed by the volume and quality of the boulders. Since then I have been making yearly trips to develop the bouldering with groups of mates. The following video was put together from the recent 2013 trip and shows some of the classic lines and quite a bit of the recent developments. We now have around 70 recorded problems and several hard projects up for the taking. The guide will be available shortly. In the mean time most problems are documented on UKC and you can drop me an email at rumboulder@gmail.com if you need more information.'

A PDF guide can be downloaded here >>>

Source: Stone Country Blog & News

[SA Chris]

A PDF guide can be downloaded here

....if your browser isn't ancient like my work one.

[r-man]

video?

[andy_e]

[r-man]

Ta.

[SA Chris]

You are so the youtube generation

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Lennoxtown Roof
19 June 2013, 3:12 pm

  Top effort from Alex Gorham against the dank, the green, the midge and the hell of Scottish bouldering! The building should give you a clue if you are a Celtic fan...



Source: Stone Country Blog & News

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Arisaig caves
24 June 2013, 4:03 am

Arisaig caves, a photo by Stone Country Press on Flickr.

Source: Stone Country Blog & News

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Craigmaddie Summer
29 June 2013, 5:29 pm

  Craigmaddie, the 'Northumberland in Glasgow' venue, really comes into its own in summer. Its rough sandstone is grippy and dries out nicely, leaving some of the damper winter roofs open for new lip traverses and deep cave starts. Colin Lambton, 'king of the lip traverse' and John Watson, unlocked the 'Stellar Advneture' lip traverse of the Sheep Pen left roof, which has brushed up well to give a classic outing...   Read more »

Source: Stone Country Blog & News

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Gighabytes
27 July 2013, 4:37 pm

The most debebilitating illness for any climber aside from the obvious broken bones, death and torn tendons, is viral labyrinthitis, an inner ear vertigo which is like stepping off a kids' roundabout and the feeling sticks. For weeks. A recuperative bout of doing nothing on a non-climbing island seemed appropriate until I grew so frustrated with inactivity I wobbled out of bed and set about the island like a lunchtime drunk looking for a pub. Gigha is a pretty island of meadows and rippled beaches, but it has little rock above chin height, and if it were a PC it would be a 250mb laptop from the 90s, in climbing bittage. However, it is not quite devoid of bouldering algorithms: the craggy trig point marilyn of Craig Bhan has some white ampibolite slabs and the easy track up to the modest summit leads to some intricate and technical slabs and cracked grooves. An hour of rehabilitating wobbles on these slabs with friends spotting with big mats is the perfect antidote for stepping off the dizzy roundabout of illness. Thanks to Ann and Nigel for the support and tolerating a grumpy and hopeless layabout. Now, where's that cold beer...



Source: Stone Country Blog & News

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Arran Bouldering - The Mushroom
28 July 2013, 11:20 am

  Ben Brotherton has put on his civic-minded beanie and visited Arran with spade and brushes to help uncover the giant Mushroom boulder.

Read more »

Source: Stone Country Blog & News