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STONE COUNTRY
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Malcolm Smith's La Saboteur Dumbarton
8 April 2010, 7:57 am
La Saboteur is the latest hard link up by Mal Smith at Dumbarton, an 8a+ climbing Sabotage and finishing left along Mike Lee's French-inpspired Tour du Technique, further colouring Dumbarton's reputation as the black Fontainebleau - Mais oui, c'est noir...
Source: STONE COUNTRY
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Arisaig Cave Project Sent
8 April 2010, 8:03 am
Dave MacLeod took advantage of a rest day to arrive at the Rhu Cvae fresh to complete his journey into darkness with the link up of the big cave project, citing it as a long 8a and a superb trip on perfect rock. The angle of the quartzite is punishing all the way and clever footwork and full-on technique is key. Check out Dave's blog for updates on this cave.
Source: STONE COUNTRY
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Rum Bouldering
8 April 2010, 1:13 pm
The Hallival boulders have finally seen a bit more of a concerted action, here Chris Everett highballs it out in this remote corrie! Topo on UKC
Source: STONE COUNTRY
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All the Small Things - Video
9 April 2010, 7:04 am
Here's Pete Murray's taster of Dave on his new 8a at Arisaig:
Source: STONE COUNTRY
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Lendalfoot Bouldering
11 April 2010, 7:39 am
Revisited this neglected wee coastal venue on a fine hot day with a cool sea breeze to dry the tidal boulders. Reclimbed a few old problems and have described the best here, named in absentia of any actual history - they have been done before. Paul Savage visited here years ago and I suspect his '8a' project was the black wall - a leaning tidal highball roof and wall.
Lendalfoot Boulders NX 134 906
Lenndalfoot is a summer shingle beach venue with a terrific view out to Ailsa Craig. The boulders along the beach provide limited bouldering with a few choice problems and some hard projects on the central black wall boulder. It is immediately accessible from laybys on the beach at Lendalfoot, a few miles south of Girvan on the A77. There are three sectors: the northern being the best with the Orange Walls and northern leaning ‘pinnacle face’, the central black wall boulder (tidal) and the village boulders and walls to the south. Summer is best when a drying breeze dries out the weepy shale.
? 1. Toffee Nosed Bastard Font 6cNorthern sector. Orange Walls northern ‘pinnacle face’. SS and climb the steep tapering toffee bulge via a long reach off an undercut to a diagonal crack, use holds in this to slap up to the left aręte to gain reluctant jugs over the top left.
Pinnacle Face of the Orange Walls (Toffee Nose)
? 2. Toffee Nosed Traverse Font 6bSS on the far right of the pinnacle face of the Orange Walls and traverse hard left to gain the left aręte and rock round this. Excellent technical lock offs and presses, the footholds are poor if the sand is high!
Project:
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