[JamesD]

Anyone fancy a spot of bouldering with me and the missus?
We are both at around V1/V2 level, and this is our first time on real rock, coming all the way from the big smoke to have some fun in Yorkshire, will have a moon Saturn pad with us too, hoping to maybe nail my first V3 whilst up there.
We will be out Friday daytime, Saturday day time, and probably Sunday too, until early afternoon, assuming the weather is ok.
Would be cool to meet some of you and soak in some of your local knowledge 

[webbo]

given your level of experience and not having climbed on rock before your skin might not last past the first day.

[JamesD]

Oh you're probably right, I guess i'll just stay at home and give up any hope of ever being able to boulder outdoors, or indeed ever touching actual boulders.

 

Or not.

Thanks for the unfriendly dose of pessimism, have a smile on me:

 

[dontfollowme]

Skin preservation is an issue for climbers of all levels. Webbo does have a point. It might be worth having a backup plan for the final day e.g. a nice walk and pub lunch.

[tomtom]

Webbo being pessimist - never! 

I suspect much would depend on the forecast - if all three days look great- then just pace yourself - boulder gently for 2-3 hours then go and chill for a bit - do a bit every day.

Its more likely however that the weather will crap out at least one day - so if its looking like that then go for it. Or use a crap weather day to do a tour and check out the local crags and get syked for when the weather is better!

If you're staying in/around Leeds then the Depot and Citibloc are both great bouldering walls..

Loads of great countryside too - esp if you head west out towards Skipton then up into the Dales... loads of great places to walk etc..

[JamesD]

Skin preservation is an issue for climbers of all levels. Webbo does have a point. It might be worth having a backup plan for the final day e.g. a nice walk and pub lunch.

I know he has a point, and the aim is to hopefully get in 3 good laid back days of bouldering, but if weather/skin causes problems then some walking and a good pub lunch will definitely be on the cards

Who am I kidding, it'll probably be pub lunches every day :p

After bouldering of course 

Tom Tom, thanks for that mate, all useful info, obviously we realise its a risk with the weather and we are *hoping* to get more than one day's worth of bouldering in, but if that is all we manage then i'm sure we'll be happy enough, i'm mostly looking forward to getting away from London and seeing some lovely countryside, so even if we only get a 1-2 days worth of bouldering in i'll still be happy as larry, which i'm guessing is happier than Webbo is?

[flyguy]

soak it up but be prepared to get climbing on grit is alot different to climbing indoors. My first time at caley i barely got up owt and i was climbing alot harder in doors and i couldn't understand why i couldn't get up v0's (sorry for using that grading system) once you get the feel for it though its awesome so much more rewarding. good luck!

[Jim]

also earl is pretty hardcore. prepare for a spanking 
Its a top class venue tho

[SA Chris]

Glad to hear you are planning some "real rock" James, but why you heading all the way to Caley? Don't get me wrong, it's a fantastic spot, but unless you have another reason to be in the area, it's at least another hour further than anything in the Peak District, plus you have to negotiate Leeds, which can be tricky on first acquaintance. Otherwise, other's advice is good - skin management is key, and expect to get spanked (by the rock that is, no idea what your evening plans are).

[rich d]

If you're off to caley I'd definately start off at the playground, great flat friendly easy starting place. Guessing you've looked at yorkshiregrit.com essential viewing.  If I was just starting out I'd give earl a miss, and although it's a bit further out I'd head to widdop. Great setting and loads of fab sub v3s with very friendly landings. Hope the weather holds for you mate.

[JamesD]

Glad to hear you are planning some "real rock" James, but why you heading all the way to Caley? Don't get me wrong, it's a fantastic spot, but unless you have another reason to be in the area, it's at least another hour further than anything in the Peak District, plus you have to negotiate Leeds, which can be tricky on first acquaintance. Otherwise, other's advice is good - skin management is key, and expect to get spanked (by the rock that is, no idea what your evening plans are).

It seems like a really good selection of stuff around our ability level, nothings set in stone though (so to speak), plus that yorkshire grit website really sold it to me, looks awesome!
Where you would you recommend in the peak that has ample stuff around V0-V3?

[Jim]

cratcliff tor, burbage south

[SA Chris]

What Jim said. Burb South is where many cut their first teeth. Small area, easy to navigate, lots of easy stuff to get you started on. Caley has masses of good stuff, but is spread out through a wood, and on first acquaintance you may wander around a bit unless you can collar a friendly local.

[webbo]

i suppose i could have said going to caley for your first day out on real rock.if you manage to get up problem in the play ground you might spend the rest of your trip trying to get down.but hell i was trying to offer postive advice.
the issue with going from inside to out is that due to indoors usually being steep its mainly on postive holds in the easier grades.most easier grit problems tend to be slabby with few postive holds. caleys easier problems can seem desperate in poor conditions and therefore you can go through all your skin on one problem.
as others have said burbage south and cratcliffe are a bit more beginer friendly also there will be less grumpy yorkshiremen around.

[mrjonathanr]

On a chipper note, Caley is a good and varied venue, the Hunter's (direction of Almscliff ) used to be great for a pint and the first time I went to Font my tips were bleeding about day 5. I stayed (and climbed) 3 more days. And it was ace.
Enjoy.

[JamesD]

Cheers for all the useful advice guys, after searching around and doing a lot of reading it seems like burbage south looks like a really good bet, if not maybe a bit better for my first time, so looks like we will be heading there, booking up a place in the morning, cheapest I managed to find was £65 a night for me and the missus, any recommendations for cheap places to stay in the area, or in Buxton?
If thats kinda the going rate think i'll just book up in the morning, thanks again everyone

[mrjonathanr]

http://www.laterooms.com/en/p1301/pv00005w/r11389_hotels-in-derbyshire.aspx
Google search is your friend (Cratcliffe is special BTW)

[webbo]

you might even be better off going to wales.trying places like the rac or the cromlech boulders.the holds tend to be a lot more positive than on grit.

[Johnny Brown]

I don't think there's much argument that Caley is the best bouldering venue in these isles. It does have its drawbacks though, and few beginners problems is one. (The others are being wet/green/midge-ridden 9 months of the year, and a general urban-fringe ambience complete with busy road and thieves).

Burbage South is nice, and better or starting. There's also far more choice should the weather dictate a change, being but one venue within the biggest concentration of bouldering in these isles.

[JamesD]

Accomodation is booked in Buxton which looks like a really beautiful village, South Burbage here we come 

[SA Chris]

Nice one! From Buxton you can easily get to the Roaches too - not far from Upper Hulme on the A53 to Leek. Upper and Lower Tiers have a good concentrations of moderately graded problems, and a lovely place to go for a walk once you run out of skin. You could go back via the M6 if you did it on the day when you were heading home. Just don't leave it too late though, parking can be a bitch, esp on a bank holiday weekend.

[Johnny Brown]

Buxton ain't no village - its a sizeable market/ spa town. As Chris said, a better base for The Roaches but you should get around if you're up all weekend.

[rich d]

also be worth going to cratcliffe and robinhoods stride, the top boulders at cratcliffe are a fantastic starting out area.

[JamesD]

Cool, if my some miracle we still have enough skin on our hands, and manage to tick off everything in Burbage South over two days, then we might pay The Roaches/other areas a visit, if not we'll probably be sticking around there I guess.
Looking forward to Buxton, looks like it'll be a welcome change of scenery from "The Urban Jungle"  AKA Central London down here.

[Johnny Brown]

From Buxton I would definitely scrub the idea of Burbage as your main venue, and visit The Roaches first. Incredible place, and where I first went bouldering. As Rich says, Cratcliffe is also close by and a fantastic low-grade venue. All three in a weekend would be fantastic.

Anyway, best leaving it to the weather. Burbage and The Roaches are at opposite corners of The Peak so get quite different weather. Cratcliffe is in the middle and at a lower altitude so will be the best bet if its iffy.