[slackline]

You never smear on flat surfaces?  Very tricky if its polished wood, far less so if there is textured paint.

I always paste my feet on flat surfaces (cos I'm really short). When it's just normal paint you just pull harder to make your feet stick, don't you?

Well I try, but am rather shit 

[Fiend]

Rodma, so we're not actually at odds over this then 

By small features I mean small features i.e. nothing you could actually use for your hands even if it were allowed. Smears and nubbins and shit. Nottingham wall has some good examples of this, as do the Ratho lead walls.

[rodma]

Rodma, so we're not actually at odds over this then 

By small features I mean small features i.e. nothing you could actually use for your hands even if it were allowed. Smears and nubbins and shit. Nottingham wall has some good examples of this, as do the Ratho lead walls.

No, we're not at odds at all 

I'm just really excited about the prospect of this place opening, but would be disappointed if there ended up being loads of features-for-feet style problems 

[jim.macp]

absolutely delighted to hear that there will be a dedicated bouldering centre in glasgow!  if this were a perfect world it would act as a spur for the existing GCC to improve their facilities to try to maintain a share of the bouldering market (though i suspect it will do the opposite) and offer glasgow a choice of quality venues.

improvements on the current provisions that i would like to see, vaguely in order of importance:

1)  reasonable height climbs (ratho and kelvingrove being much better than GCC)
2)  problems that my girlfriend would enjoy, i.e., interesting problems that are less than vertical.  virtually non-existent in glasgow currently.
3)  a decent cafe.  if i could get a bowl of pasta (rather than just a burger or cheese toastie) for a couple of quid i would eat there 3 nights a week
4)  a good place for doing circuits (less than 45 degrees)
5)  a variety of surface types..  i personally love the combination of bolt on hand-holds and numerous feature footholds on the free standing boulders at ratho


and now the wishlist:

a few free weights and other conditioning tools
lounging area
heavily discounted prices to pull punters in off-peak
slack line
how about a connected climber's bar serving local microbrews like they do in prague?

[Percy B]

Textured panels with subtle smears on (The Works falls down on this).

No, you mean you fall off on this. We use lots of little screw-on holds which we can move around when we reset, instead of permanent smeary features which we used to use before we knew any better and which are there for ever and just get polished.

If your eyesight wasn't fucked from painting all those goblins, you'd have seen the screw-on foot holds too......

 

[magpie]

I think screw on foot holds are better, as Percy says, they can be moved about and changed moer often to suit different routes and also they are more positive to stand on, I find. [/punter] 

If you require something other than the screwed on holds to help do the problem then it should be harder work / less friction-y to use the rest of the wall cause otherwise you are getting too much help and cheating. 

[Plattsy]

........... and which are there for ever and just get polished.

Sounds like rock to me.

[SA Chris]

Percy, it looks like establishing outposts of bouldering centres across the UK is the thing to do. I reckon you should get the Works II in Aberdeen before you miss the chance (please!).

[Cheesemaster]

Have you got a venue lined up. Any hints on its location

[magpie]

For the Glasgow one?

Portman Street, in the old News International Building just beside the M8, 200m from Kinning Park Subway station.

[marty]

Any firm dates yet ??? Given that the scottish summer is over by the 3rd week in June before is lashes down for 8 months, it can't come too soon!

[magpie]

3rd week in June?  'Summer' is the two nice weeks in the middle of May, surely?

[Fiend]

Textured panels with subtle smears on (The Works falls down on this).

No, you mean you fall off on this. We use lots of little screw-on holds which we can move around when we reset, instead of permanent smeary features which we used to use before we knew any better and which are there for ever and just get polished.

If your eyesight wasn't fucked from painting all those goblins, you'd have seen the screw-on foot holds too......

 

Haha I have 20/20 dude. I haven't been to the works since last September so you must have added them since then. Screwons are fine but it's still not as good training as subtler smears, unless you have LOADS of shite screw-ons.