[Plattsy]

A pre-emptive strike because I'm away next week.

Boulder 7A
Weight 13st 6lbs.

M:    Rest.
T:   The Works. Blue circuit warm up. Then a mish-mash of blacks, red and pinks. Pull ups.
W:   Rest. Sore left shoulder and side. Stretches.
T:   Foundry session cut short due to shoulder and side still being quite sore. Stretches.
F:   Rest.
S:   Fly to Bulgaria for a weeks snowboarding stag do. I'm gonna get all mystic meg and predict copious amounts of beer will be consumed.
S:   Again mystic meg predicts a day nursing a hangover whilst remembering how to snowboard (and maybe a stag on the slopes in a mankini - I'm not the stag by the way)  followed by copious amounts of beer.

[cmerch]

First time to join in Power Club, sooo:
Long term: Climb 8a and boulder V8
M: Nothing, rain and snow
T:Meet Andy Popp at Horse Pens 40 and do loads of classics up to V5
W:Run 30 mins.
Th:20 mins on Moon fingerboard
F: Campus for 25 mins, elbow felt good, old pain seems to have healed
S: Run 30 mins
S:lite workout on Rock Rings
49 year old Hillbilly from Alabama, need to work on one arm-hangs and lock-offs

[roddersm]

2010 Goals:

Trad: Onsight lots of E2s (including left wall if i get to wales), several E3s and possibly a couple of E4s, Boulder 7a+/b , sport onsight 7a (minimum) . Onsight debelof 6c+ and biscott margerine 6b+ in verdon.

LTG's: Trad Onsight E5 (including Right Wall) , Sport: Redpoint 8a, Onsight 7b+. Boulder: I'm probably too short for Brad pitt but maybe 7b+/7C would be nice (Midnight lightning maybe..): Big Wall, Climb the Nose on El Cap. General: Climb lots off classic routes/problems and get stronger and fitter. 

Mon  Rest
Tue   Running 47min approx: about 5.7 miles   
Wed  Running 48min approx: about 6 miles
Thur  Rest.
Fri     Rest. Beer
Sat    Ran 1 hr 8 min approx 8.5 miles.
Sun   Ran 1 hr 6 min approx 8.5 miles.

Fuck sake finger still injured so no climbing last week. Getting sick off running but will be interesting to see the effect of all this running on my climbing performance when I start training again.   

[tomtom]

Its been a good week... and no climbing on plastic!!
STG 7b+..

Mon: rest.
Tues: Day trip to Almscliff. Finally got Si's Arete, repeated DWR, Crux Low trav & Dreamland. Probably my best day at the cliff..
Wed: Meeting in Notts, so managed to stop off at Trackside on way home. Conditions were greasy, but worked all of moves on Tracking - inc the one into Strawberries - though kept greasing off the last bit.. hopeful this should be in the bag next visit 
Thurs: Rest
Fri: A 'short' trip to plantation turned into 4 hours.. Had the place to myself for first couple of hours, so spent a while (nearly 90min!) on Deliverance. Tantelisingly close - now wrapping my finger tips over the top (the jug bit not sloper bit). Also managed to work all the moves on Green Traverse - previously the campus up move in the middle has been beyond me - I must be getting stronger. Had to stop when my skin started to give up! Again, one that should go when I'm fresh...
Sat: Rest. My deliverancing has given me some 'unusual' aches! Top of left thigh/groin and R quads still aching - which is good as it means I've been working those jumping muscles
Sun: A sneaky hour at Hobson Moor (under the pretence of heading to tesco's!)

[Fiend]

Goals:
Downgrade everything I do that has a remotely challenging number.
Bust out rad new phlavas each week while still keeping it hood.


This week:
Mon - n/a
Tue - 2 good trad leads, one steady, one challenging, good training, finger and shoulder okay.
Wed - swam 1 km, was good, might have to do 1 mile next.
Thu - 2 hours leading at Ratho, shoulder fine, finger sore mostly due to pressure, wall fitness okay and got some good pump going, too cowardly for falling practise / 45 mins inept wobble boarding, was more hardcore than Ratho.
Fri - 4 hours steady boogiing to Dave Clarke and Jeff Mills, not too tiring as I was keeping it low key, neck a bit stiff.
Sat - 1 hour gentle bouldering, everything fine.
Sun - 1 steady trad lead, easy but fun, got syked for something harder but rained off. Everything fine except upper forearms sore from boogiing.

Comments:
Much better week this week, almost entirely due to better socialising and therefore a better mood. Actually had people get back to me about climbing and could get out and do stuff. Trad leading still good, am getting keen to push it more. Training down Ratho was fine and I'd happily get back into that. Shoulder fine after last week's therabanding, but finger is still a problem, again more due to pressure than pulling. Will have to take extra care indoors with it.

[nik at work]

8b, 8B, (E8)

STG: 8A in Font (this is looking laughable right now)

M - Nothing
T - Brief hour at Mytholm
W - Nothing
Th - A.N.Other limestone crag DIY in the morn then on to Malham in the P.M. Lonnnnnggggggggg day.
F - Long day at work
S - Travelling to the IOM
Su - Travelling back from the IOM

Not a classic week really, and I feel very sore right now. Hoping I'm just a bit tired and after a couple of relaxing days I'll be ready to rip in Font. Hmmmm

[tommytwotone]

LTG: Font 7b, Great North Run in sub-2 hour time.

What a week - been working and playing proverbially hard.

M - Nowt, been poorly over t'weekend so didn't feel like it
T - Depot session after stressful day at work, climbed really well
W - Nowt again, long day at work again. Tried pullups at home but felt so feckless I sacked it.
T - Harrogate wall Core holds comp - went well, felt drained afterwards
F - Round the missus' for tea. Ate a massive helping of lasagne, drank half a bottle of Barolo
S - Couple of hours fighting the gale at the Cliff
S - Worked all day from home

Next week aims - less defects on my projects and less hours/stress at work, more running on lunch (assuming I get a break), more chinups and core at home.

[webbo]

STG
get some cycling fitness
LTG
drink less than i have this week
off work all week
Mon bouldering rockcity tick a problem i've tried for last 3 sessions.turbo 1 hour.drink
Tue cycling 31/2 hours took abit of battering as it was a block head wind for last 11/2 hours.drink
Wed bouldering oaklands.struggled possibly due to it being hot or maybe general crappiness.drink
Thu bouldering rockcity 2x20 problems going quite well.cycling 1 hour including 2x15 time trial efforts.drink
Fri rest day.drink
Sat cycling 3 hours.windy as shit again.drink
Sun bouldering ramshaw and baldstones. did v6 and 2 v5s.but more worryingly slapped for a hold and got my shoulder to make a nice cruching noise. i guess only time will tell.drink

good week in terms of training/activity but some how i seem to be fatter than ever.
 

[duncan]

STG (June): E3 / El Cap.
MTG (June 2011): E5

M: Started doing shoulder stability stuff but didn't feel right so bagged it. 
T: High Tor with E8 leader.  E8 leader made Supersonic look like an HVS.  I did a couple of HVSs making them look like E8s. 
W: Shoulder stability stuff
T: Physio - elbow problem is officially ulnar nerve which means, in one respect, I can Be Like Jerry.
F: Assisted pull-ups and lock-offs
S: Portland. 10 routes up to F6a.  Shoulder fine, elbow sore.
S: Shoulder stability stuff

Good week: shoulder improving, work situation stable, climbed on real rock twice. 

[Andy F]

Goals: Climb of the Century, GA.
Mon - rest
Tues - Awesome Liverpool. Some bouldering, some routes mileage
Wed/Thurs - occasional pull ups
Fri - good beastmaker session.
Sat - family
Sun - Malham. Warm up as usual. Go upstairs and put the clips in COTC. Bloody freezing. Next go on the TR can't see a thing as it's too sunny. Last go (due to time constraints) get some linking. All the moves done.  Go home.

[Three Nine]

Goals: 7c onsight, Right Hand man (or other local 8a), 7Bs, strong for Europe, be above Shark in 8a.nu rankings

M: Cardio 30 min run
T: Strength 45 (pockets). Felt weak and arms sore all weak from this. Set 15 move anaerobic capacity problem
W: Power 45 (edges). As above. Did 15 move AC problem.
T: Deadhangs. Sacked off pockets as arms still sore. Can't touch 45s any more 
F: Rest. Sore throat and felt run down.
S: Portland. Damp conditions. Low 7s onsighting milage to remember how to onsight. Climbed crap.
S: Winspit. Piss wet and drizzly. Low 7s onsighting. Climbed a bit better. Deadhangs 1 hour. Still cant touch 45s.

Bit slack this week. Been eating like a machine and put on some (probably needed) weight. Would like some decent weather so i can try some harder stuff.

PLan to work on pace, a big weakness of mine (i think too slow). ALso going to tag on 30mins of AC laps with timed rests onto the end of board sessions. ABarrotakesitupthebum81 reckons this is a good idea.

[chillax]

Goals: Onsight Fair head E3, boulder 7a consistently

Mon: Knackered after bouldering meet at weekend. Did nothing.
Tues: Skin still fucked afer wicklow granite. Nowt.
Wed: Intended to go to the wall in belfast. Ended up going drinking with girls. Good reminder that there is life outside climbing   
Thurs: Deadhangs. Possibly overdid it. Don't think you're meant to feel nauseous after fingerboarding. Lots of pullups and pushups.
Fri: Shaved beard off to improve aerodynamic efficiency
Sat: Vegetated
Sun: Lots of pullups and pushups.

Had a lot of work this week so it was more about maintaining than improving i think. Came closer than ever to doing a one armer though, which is encouraging. Will be able to do a decent one on my right arm soon. Next 2 weeks are holidays from college. Plan is to do lots of routes and bouldering in wicklow during the week then maybe head to the burren or pembroke for easter weekend.

[lagerstarfish]

Goal - Font 7c
Weight 14st 6lb
body fat 28%

M - auto belay routes at Virgin (5+,5+,6A,6A,6B,6B+,6C+,7B,7B,6A,6A,6A). Felt positively waif like standing next to John Allen. 3x(10+10) pullups and dips
T - fuck all
W - catching trout at Ladybower
Th - zilch; skin still bad from last week and no motivation
F - 2 hr bike ride with smallest child attatched
S - played with lego all day
Su - grit bouldering. Technically inept, but got up the odd 7a

[andybfreeman]

Goals - 7B in the forest, 7C route

M - rest, right knee feeling weak and painfulwhen bent
T - tried t climb at TCA, knee felt horrible dropping onto the mat and drop knees made me wince. saw the physio who reckoned that the problem was to do with my femur (rebuilt with a rod after a car accident 8/9 years ago) rather tan the knee itself and recommended an x-ray just to be sure. he then gave me a massage which seemed to help.
W - x-ray then rest (week+ for results)
Th - core and press ups
F - quick session at TCA, leg felt better but not right, ticked off a handful of the new hard yellow circut. follwed by beer with work folks.
Sa - routes at creation in Brum. nothing too hard up to 7a follwed by some half arsed bouldering. note to self; creation is rubbish, crap routes, crap holds and smelled damp! lovely dinner with mum, dad and bro follwed by late night with younger bro.
Su - back to Bristol, weather iffy and brother with ore back so ended up at Werburghs for an easy routes day. more fun than creation but still nothing hard routes up to 7a+. finally getting my head back into leading, took some nice whippers and pushed on when i might otherwise have just rested on the rope.

Weight going back up, averaged of 68.7kg for the week. inevitable really given my level of inactivity earlier in the week but my leg feels almost 100% now so i think the problem was muscular rather tan structural and i should be able to to get back on it this week

[Davo]

Monday: Rest

Tuesday: Went to Cave. Tried to do Lou Ferrino. Fell off at end with hand in last hold but unable to match due to no feeling/blood in fingers. Doh! Seemed to have hurt my left shoulder in this session. Probably the rotator cuff again.

Wednesday: Shoulder sore but not too bad. Definitely part of rotator cuff. Take a lot of ibuprofen. Deadhangs don't seem to be a problem. So Fingerboard session in morning (weighted 5kgs). Fingerboard in evening (weight 5 1/2 kgs).

Thursday: More fingerboarding (5.5 kgs) and some therabanding and stretching of shoulder.

Friday: More therabanding for shoulder. Definitely rotator cuff but not as bad as I have done before. Hopefully should heal if I avoid shouldery and wide problems.

Saturday: Brimham, did The Anchor, Pounce and Black chipper arete. Very good day on the grit. Not really been a great fan of Brimham before as I always ended up wandering around lost and confused but being shown around made life much better.

Sunday: Caley, pretty tired but laid a few nemesises (not too sure of spelling for that!) to rest. The Pinch and Mr smooth. Then did the arete only version of the horn. Tried 2 squirrels which is brilliant but fell off end knackered.

Overall a good end to a crap beginning. Shoulder definitely needs a lot of work but is not so bad that I have to stop. Need to do more therabanding and begin some weights for it.

[Three Nine]

Andy, if you can climb 7a+ at Werburgs you can climb a lot harder than 7c outdoors. I have yet to manage UCR 7a.

Davo, its Greek so 'nemeses'.

[nai]

goal 7C (DWRLH Evs, Terrace 5/2, Play Hard 5/1, Hurricane 10/1)
 
Skin bad after the last few weeks so I decided to stay off rock all week and let it heal.

M - 80 pullups and 80 press ups
T - ouch, overdid the press ups.  Deadhangs, first session for a few weeks - managed the same weight as previous but maybe not for quite as long, quite pleased anyway.  One armers on Rock Ring.
W - Reskim Self Coached Climber & Beastie training tips, decide to try Repeaters rather than deadhangs for a while, do 6 sets and finish off with lockoffs & one-armers on RR.
Th - rest, not much soreness surprisingly
Fri - Despite sanding and balming tips are healing rough so convinced myself that a quick hour at Rubicon would aid exfoliation.  Glad I did, got Bigger Splash Direct 4th go, quickest 7B by far.  But couldn't do Bigger Splash itself    A few Encores and one armers at home.
S - An hour of exfoliation at Higgar.  Worked out the roof moves on Sht which I've struggled with before, couldn't link it though.  Eagerly await an easterly to blow up and I'll be straight back there.  Overdid the exfoliation unfortunately but not too badly.
S - and rest.

Only moderate wine and biscuit intake & no crisps for two weeks now .  Good week all round, psyche levels are high, even enthused by Rubicon eliminates - whatever next?  Not much chance of getting near DWRLH for a while though, weather looks bad and have a family visit all this coming weekend.

[Richie Crouch]

Goals for 2010: In Hell (le cave); Berezina, Aerodynamite & Big Boss (font)

S: Climbed at Rempart for an hour, tired from journey!
S: Climbed at Apremont, did some classics but failed on Onde de Choc.. punter
M: Tired, Climbed @ 91.1 & Roche Aux Sabots, couldn't stick top of Salle Gosse but doing laps to there at least
T: Isatis, more classics inc Angle Ben's & coquille ss, looked at Arrache Couer on way out, psyched to try this. Tried Surprise by headtorch but didn't hold the left hand over move, the rh sidepull was black with grease!
W: Rempart & Cuvier, semi rest day, spotting and just did festin and some easier things, looked at Merveille... terrifying! Went Bas and worked Berezina, couldn't get heel on but toehook started to feel feasable. Didd Holey Moley in the dark and it felt fully desperate for 7a!
T: Went CDC, did tricky 6a+ warmup on the right of the Toit then it hammered down with rain
F: Rain. Went Gorge aux Chats later, did some good warmups then Rubis Sur Ongle in a few tries, quite psyched. Did Tour d'Ivoire ss into the start of the 6b stand and powered out
S: Went back to Gorge aux Chats, Dried off the top and warmed up for 5 mins... then got Tour d'Ivoire with 2 heel pops managing to barely keep my lanky limbs off dabbing the rock behind my head or the pads! Rained again but went 95.2 and managed some more easier things, Rudeboy felt a bit spicy for 7a but I may have just been destroyed from climbing every day.
S: Even more rain, sacked it home.

Decent trip getting in a lot of volume problems and some classics. Only briefly tried 1 of the 3 things on my wishlist for font 2010 but hopefully get to put some effort in in April. The first 4 days felt like I was trying to regain climnbing fitness having juggled injuries, skin issues and illness for the previous 2-3 weeks and I felt pretty pitifully weak in general until the last 2 days 

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 61kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A boulder.
Stupid challenge to keep me motivated over the winter: Climb every problem in the room next to the tower at Ingleton Wall.

M: Rest Day
T: Bouldering at Inlgeton. Started off a bit slowly, gave myself a kick up the arse part way through and actually managed to have a decent session. One new problem done by the skin of my teeth.
W: Deadhangs for 45 minutes with 4kg additional weight, Theraband exercises and one arm work on Rock Rings.
T: Routes at Kendal. Reasonable session, plenty of long routes between 6c and 7a+.
F: Rest day
S: 45 min run.
S: Craig y Longridge bouldering. Bit of a tentative YYFY as I did what could potentially be my first 7A - Grow Wings - but am a little concerned that it might be a bit of a soft 7A (V5 on UKC and V6? on wiki). Anyone done this and have an opinion?

Good week overall with my weight back in check after increasing a bit last week, and I could potentially be looking at having hit my 2010 bouldering target quite early in the year. I'll be interested to see what people think about the problem I did.

As for Ingleton boulering I have 5 problems remaining but am really struggling to make any impression on them and not entirely sure where the problem lies which is frustrating. Could be that finger strength needs to move on again and with that in mind this weeks deadhanging session was my first with additional weight. It certainly increased the intensity significantly so I guess I'll see how that goes.

[Falling Down]

M to F Hard week at work between the UK and Holland.  Did some pressups.
S - Bouldering at Cratcliffe. Felt tired so had an easy day out pottering, good for motivation.
S - Recovering from a late night at a mates birthday.

Goals this week: Kick start my climbing year for 2010 with a trip to Siurana over Easter weekend. Goals for the tip are to get lots of onsighting mileage in the 6's and to chill out after a manic start to the year.

[shark]

Thanks for starting thread Plattsy

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8anu points
Weight 11.4-6

M.
T. AM Yoga. Eve. Lunch 1hr Fingery endurance and some undercutting on Board. Felt tired to start with but OK timings after warm-up.
W.
T. Eve. 45mins In cabin with my daughter - short problems.
F. Lunch: 1hr Fingery endurance and some undercutting on Board. Good progress.
S.AM Cleared garden. PM Jogged from Curbar Gap to Frogatt. Soloed a couple of routes. Backed off a couple more. Jogged back.
S.Went to Malham with Keith. Arrived at village with 4 miles in tank. Wind chill factor high. Oak and Baboo wet when arrived. Tweaked back on first warm up and felt nauseous. Worked and redpointed Bongo Fury without trauma. Oak dried by then so had a go but absolutely useless on it. Sacked it off. Managed to flash Something Stupid (hadnt been on this for 10-15 years at a guess). Car made it to petrol station. Phew. Funny day - not to sure what to make of it. Nice Chicken roast when got back.

Started keeping a note of what I eat and was really good apart from wine during week but had treats Fri night onwards. Seem to have worked as weighed in at 11.3 this morning  . Would be tempted to get out midweek but the forecast is awful. Jog to Froggatt was hard work - oh dear. Probably the first time Ive put running shoes on for a year. Unsure whether to sack the Oak off or not. Back giving me a bit of grief - usually a marker if I'm overdoing it. May have an easy week of it this week.

[Jaspersharpe]

M - Ummm. Nothing, I think.
T - Gym. Felt quite strong.
W - Press ups and sit ups first thing. Seemed to do the trick for not feeling too stiff from the gym.
T - Ditto first thing, wasn't planning any further exercise as thought I had to work late. Got stuff sorted earlier than expected so went to The Works. Excellent session, dispatching two red problems that had felt well beyond me a few weeks back. Picked up two new jobs there too which was nice. Celebrated by drinking far too much wine.
F - Hungover & stiff from climbing. Did nowt.
S - No training but did plenty of exercise as we were having carpets fitted throughout the house. Managed to get the old carpet to the tip and get the house all set up again (computer, internet, tv, Sky etc) in time to watch Brighton stuff Tranmere on Soccer Saturday. Went out, drank beer.
S- Another trip to the tip then cooked Sunday dinner for us, Lagers and Mrs Starfish. Drank wine.

Weekends are fucking hectic at the minute with getting the house sorted (for selling it). Also have some big nights out planned in the next few weeks so fitting more training in is proving problematic. However, I'm certainly getting stronger and remembering how to climb a bit better so it's all good.

[Fatboy]

STG: Get strength and stamina back after 6 month lay-off due to herniating a disk in my back.
MTG: Repeat hardest problems done before injury and climb new project, Chillax (6c) in Glendalough, Ireland.
LTG: Boulder 7a in Font.

Mon: Work. Felt like I might have been coming down with something so rested up and got an early night
Tues: Work. Evening session down at the wall, felt much stronger, climbed all previous warm-up problems and was then wrecked.
Wed: Work. 5-a-side football for good cardio session, feel fitness coming back, all shots on tagret - shocker! 
Thurs: Work. General evening session down at the wall - managed most of my usual warm-up problems but felt weak.
Fri: Work.
Sat: Woke very early and sawed up our old couch for firewood, good workout. Surf and turf in the evening.
Sun: Walked up Three Rock for leisurely jaunt, rest.

Felt stronger and can feel climbing fitness coming back, aided by general cardio fitness coming back. Need to get more sleep to help recovery and feeling burnt out. Specific training sessions to start soon.

[Yossarian]

Monday - Went for a run.  Potentially a seminal moment, because it was the first time in my entire life I actually voluntarily went running.  I did about 25 minutes and within that time all memories of coming last in cross country runs, doubled over with a stitch, wishing I had put drawing pins in everyone else's trainers, etc, etc were banished. Celebrated with crushing of bench press and Tasmanian pinot.

Tuesday - Friday - New business launched on Tuesday, so most of week was swept away with that.  Ate and drank heartily and didn't sleep terribly well.

Saturday - Went running again.  This time 45 minutes (think biking fitness is helping somehow) - felt like fucking Superman, halfway through decided to enter local triathlon next month, but then when hip flexors started to feel weird I thought I would reserved judgement.  Spent rest of day relaxing by double digging a fucking huge flowerbed and then doing some weights.

Sunday - Was supposed to be riding a sportive, but gardening going so well on Sat that I sacked it off in favour of emptying pond (rescuing fish and newts from the murky depths and rehousing them in a more luxurious setting) and filling it in with enormous piles of earth. Without a wheelbarrow. As such am now entirely broken.

Must ride bike this week...

[JamesD]

It's been a good week, I decided to focus heavily on Cardio, and improving my diet, well actually my general diet is not too bad, I just decided to cut down carb consumption and stop eating so many bloody cakes!

Monday: Swim, Steam, Sauna* (SSS*)

Tuesday: SSS

Wednesday: Productive session at the wall, hammered through a load of V1's felt strong, still two V1's in the place which I haven't done yet, or rather I have done one but can't get the sit start properly, and haven't done the other, need to work on my pinch grip big time!

Thursday: SSS

Friday: Got really drunk with the missus then turn up to dinner with: sister of missus, and boyfriend of sister of missus, we both end up about twice as drunk as they are, were meant to go to cinema, but we passed out and could not be woken up apparently!

Saturday: Get home to go to the cinema, find girlfriends sister and boyfriend really drunk, its like last night but in reverse?!
Go to cinema, see shutter island, great film, but kind of depressing.

Sunday: Pop to Mile end indoor wall for a change, fancy some taller problems, do a couple of V0's to get warmed up, then nail 2-3 V1's, attempt some ridiculously hard V1 on the main overhang wall, give up after 2-3 attempts seeing as nearly every move was pretty much a jump, proceed to complete my first V2!, YES YES FUCKING YES!
It knackered me the hell out but I am really pleased with this little bit of progress, traversed for a little bit, stretched, went home a happy man   

[SA Chris]

I will be brief

STG - get some climbing done. MTG - get a bit fitter before week away in june - enjoy some mountainbiking and do a 7a that week.

M - eye of needle diet continues
T - still feel unwell, avoid dairy and fresh fruit just in case.
W - walk to work 1 hr - weigh in 13st 10lbs - down 4 3/4 on last week. Shitting constantly and not eating does have upside
T - walk to work, still feeling crap, nothing in evening
F - walk to work, meeting from 10 - 4 drains me of will to live. Go home and look after nipper while lass has night out, knackered
S - go for one hour walk with nipper on seacliffs, do DIY
S - go for hour walk with nipper, do DIY

This week I will definitely do some training. 

[chris_j_s]

Unsure whether to sack the Oak off or not.

Usual disclaimers apply, I'm a million miles from being an expert etc. etc., but I was just wondering about a few things...

 - were conditions not a bit shit if it only dried back during the course of the day?
 - what is your best effort so far on it, and what is stopping you making progress - stopper moves or endurance when linking it all together.
 - if stopper moves, have you tried recreating those on your board at home and work up to adding them near the end of a long ciruit.
 - if endurance, I get the impression you've been doing a lot of strength work recently so maybe a few weeks of endurance work, really pushing yourself would yield results or at least give your body something different to think about.
 - do you generally periodise your training to peak at certain times or do you try and maintain a similar level for the majority of the year.

I do appreciate you've a lot more training experience than me so feel free to ignore this but it seems like a real shame to be losing motivation for your project so early on when a change of focus/shock to the system might be what you need to make the next step forward.

[Monolith]

Monday - Uni
Tuesday - 6am run, fingerboard/powerpull combo.
Wednesday - Uni
Thursday - Uni
Friday - Sunday Spent hanging with girl.

Sure I did two sessions this week but can't remember which other day it was. Will keep a proper written record this week.
 

[shark]

Hi Chris

I have had 4 days on it this year and each session yeilded progress but no new highpoint. I have recreated the moves on a board but havent linked those moves on the board either. On reflection I think twatting my back was the problem yesterday but it was baltic too.

I think it's all a bit academic anyway as the route is going to be wet next weekend and the weekend after I'm going to Font for a week. If I'm psyched for it when I come back I'll give it another go but I think sacking it off and coming back to it in the Autumn might be best which was my original game plan anyway. I can carry on training for it by attempting the circuit on the board each week. BTW I didnt mean I would sack it off altogether.

[Three Nine]

shark - surely its not a case of sacking it off completely? you could have another more immediate (and closer to sheff?) 8a+/8b proj, returning to the oak when you are stronger/better at rock climbing.

as a punter operating in relative isolation (no scene/no mates) i am amazed at how you and certain other northern types are prepared to just siege a route for months on end. I would have thought this would be the preserve of the full-time climber, not the weekend warrior. as if the latter spends his weekends sat on a bolt on a thing basically too hard for him, he doesnt do any more climbing. For the time limited like us (i live 2 hours from rock) I think its necessary to be over strong/over good for stuff. Otherwise you are just going to get disheartened (as you seem to be). For us the Simpson method of prepping for something on a board or wall and then getting it done quickly, has considerable merit IMHO. Ones weekends can then be a bit freer. For most of us I think, not infrequent ticks are essential to staying motivated.

From my own (very limited experience) i really wanted to do cider soak, but struggled to find partners, and the 3 hour drive didn't help. But after an initial visit I knew i had to be strong on good edges on a 30 deg wall and manage to string 20ish moves in a row together . So when training in the evenings (when i couldnt go climbing), i kept this in mind, and so i managed to do it. But on the weekends i got to do lots of other nice routes (although i tried to focus on PE on edges). I know trying the Oak is the most specific whatnot for doing the oak, but this has to be balanced against other things i reckon.

[Three Nine]

ok you kind of said it anyway

[Jeff25]

Unsure whether to sack the Oak off or not

Surely not!!!! - No giving up so easily Mr Shark.

Goals: European 8a+, 7B ideally in font.

Monday: Short beastmaker schedule - got to get a plan rather than just try random holds.
Tuesday - Friday: Nothing - first week back at work after baby and absouloutely shagged.
Saturday: Beastmaker session and pull ups - sub 1 hour
Sunday: WWay, fell off problems i used to cruise, did some campus boarding as a treat for my elbows. met a mate and tried to OS a 7b+ - but fell off.

[JohnM]

Goals this year:  Fr8b, Font 8a+, sub 40 min 10k

M:  Beastmaker session.  Started adding 10kg on two handed hangs I find easy.
T:  Went to the pub and then out for Italian meal.
W:  Beastmaker session including assisted one arm pull ups.
T:  Went to the cave.  Felt stronger on individual moves but failed to link anything longer than 6 moves.
F:  10km run (57:22 min) way off the pace.  Went out for friends birthday in Preston.  Remembered why I hate going out in Preston but managed some self restraint and didn't drink too much to try and make it better!
S:  Malham - First routes session this year.  Felt terrible on the warm ups.  Went upstairs and got the moves on Main Overhang quickly.  Had a redpoint and managed to get halfway shaking like a shitting dog.  Had another redpoint that went better but split a tip.
S:  Nice circuit round Caley but was hindered by split tip.

[shark]

From my own (very limited experience) i really wanted to do cider soak, but struggled to find partners, and the 3 hour drive didn't help.

Spare a thought for the FA Nick White. Living in Exeter at a time when there were no other climbers or indoor walls or boards as an impecunious artist and sometimes getting his slightly odd landlady to belay him at weekends. 

Re the other stuff - I like being at Malham and seiging routes. The are others who are even more singleminded in this respect especially Paul Reeve. Its an old skool thing like wearing vests.

[Stubbs]

Aims:
Zoo York
Good shape for Swizzy in the summer
Suffolk's number 1

M: easy weights sesh and stretching
T: Beastmaker and core sesh
W: Beastmaker and weights
T: Nowt
F: Nowt
S: Walk approx 8 miles
S: walk approx 6 miles

Looking forward to Easter and some (hopeful) proper climbing!  Getting more of a gauge of the correct level of effort on the Beastmaker, and the pockets are starting to feel better.

[Three Nine]

Spare a thought for the FA Nick White. Living in Exeter at a time when there were no other climbers or indoor walls or boards as an impecunious artist and sometimes getting his slightly odd landlady to belay him at weekends. 

I was told he moved up north, got fat, and stopped climbing, not long after writing SDAD. Do you know what became of him? (no moral to this, just wondered).

[Fiend]

SDAD is as fine a climber's swansong as one could hope for.

[Duma]

Goals: 7C, 7C+, etc

M: circuits at TCA. went pretty well, managed not to be distracted by shorter stuff for over an hour, flashed 7a circuit, 7b+ 3rd go. small beer, but pleased since I haven't tied in in about 2 years.
T: nowt. Rear ended someone leaving work. Insurance co will prob write car off. Arse.
W: TCA, enjoyed. Got a couple of whites, then distracted by the new yellows that were being set.
T: nowt. dad all day.
F: quick hour at TCA before night shift. not enough time to get much done, but worked through a few more of the yellows.
S: 12hr night shifts + 45minutes each way commuting precludes anything else.
S: see above.

SDAD is awesome, my favourite guide ever. Nick White = 

[Andy F]

Re the other stuff - I like being at Malham and seiging routes. The are others who are even more singleminded in this respect especially Paul Reeve. Its an old skool thing like wearing vests.

That'll explain your lycra fetish then 

[shark]

Spare a thought for the FA Nick White. Living in Exeter at a time when there were no other climbers or indoor walls or boards as an impecunious artist and sometimes getting his slightly odd landlady to belay him at weekends. 

I was told he moved up north, got fat, and stopped climbing, not long after writing SDAD. Do you know what became of him? (no moral to this, just wondered).

I chatted to him in the Broadfield 6/7 years ago. He wasn't climbing then. Haven't seen or heard from him since though I noticed last year he was selling gear on the internet either thru ebay or ukc - can't remember which - but suggested he was back in Exeter IIRC .

[Adam Lincoln]

T: High Tor with E8 leader.  E8 leader made Supersonic look like an HVS.  I did a couple of HVSs making them look like E8s. 

He couldn't place gear for shit though...

[SA Chris]

SDAD is as fine a climber's swansong as one could hope for.

Word. Yet to be surpassed as the most entertaining guidebook I have read. A genius work.

[Falling Down]

I know I'm probably being really stupid, but SDAD???

[SA Chris]

South Devon and Dartmoor Guide

[Falling Down]

Ah, that would explain.  I've never climbed there but I've always wanted to explore the Devon coast.

[SA Chris]

Which one? The two Devon coasts are in different guides. Both are good though.

[Falling Down]

I'm even thicker than I thought...  that would be the S in SDAD then 

[SA Chris]

I wasn't going to comment

NDAC guide may be a better bet if you want to explore the more surf rich coast.

[andy popp]

Mon: Wake up in Alabama (YYFY); its snowing and my neck, injured in a car crash the week before, wrecks after the flight (NNFN)
Tues: Climb with Curt (cmerch here) who is a true gent
Wed: Climb. The score is 45 problems in the two days. HP40 is fantastic. Brilliant two days. Didn't try anything hard at all, with so much to go at and so little time, it didn't make sense to work stuff. Thus impossible to tell if training has paid off but I guess I got a decent volume in.
Thurs: Drive to Georgia for conference
Fri-Sat: Normal conference scene; too much crap food, coffee and alcohol
Sun-Mon: travel home. A great mini road-tripping week

[Fiend]

NDAC and SDAD combined make one of the most fascinating and diverse (and adventurous) climbing areas in the UK 

[Nibile]

STG regain some power and fitness while nursing a finger
MTG be strong for the late spring action in swizzy

M, T work and rest
W 24th first session after 2 weeks off. simple bouldering on easy to moderate stuff, 45° and 60° walls, mainly fingery.
T rest
F 26th easy session, tried two harder problems, not done. 45° wall, mainly compression moves.
S, S bouldering on rock. two short sessions, from 7a to 7b/+. repeated a long 7c+ in two halves as the last problem of day 2. 

[Charles]

Complete rest week incorporating three days of drinking in Prague. Not the beat preparation for font but all niggles and tweaks gone and I only put on 5lbs!