the shizzle > power club

UKB Power Club Week 6 (Mon 15th - Sun 21st)

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Three Nine:
Goals: Right Hand Man (Cheddar), 7c onsight, 7Bs, strong for Europe

M: Cardio (30 min run)
T: Anstey's, did The Cider Soak, hurrah!
W: 45 Power 2.5 hours, felt tired and not really on it
T: 45 Power 2 hours, felt a little bit better but not that much snap
F: Cardio (30 min run)
S: TCA, 30 deg woodie and a few easy problems. Got some virus, felt yuck, unproductive session.
S: Brean Down, did a 7c and some 7as. Climbed like a retard.

This week hope to train power and also get to Ansteys on Tues and do Just Revenge in a session. Also to get on an 8a at Cheddar at the weekend.

Andy F:
Mon - rest
Tues - Awesome Liverpool. Bouldered on the 45 for about 40 mins, did one good new hardish problem. 1.5hrs mileage on the rope, 6c-7a routes.
Wed - work/family stuff
Thurs - light 20 min Beastmaker
Fri - hard 50 min Beastmaker
Sat - rest
Sun - Malham. Warm up as usual, then put the clips in Straightened. Taped up the finger tip that hurt on the crux pocket last week. Worked the bottom crux for a few goes, managed to stick it, so kept going to the rest on Baboo. Shook out, felt good so went for it. Clipped the bolt by the crux, got my right hand in the undercut and got ready to pull. Then I realised that the tape on my tip was rolling off and my hand was sliding out of the undercut! I slapped for the pinch but missed, annoyed as I felt fine.
Next go I do the hard start first go, get to the rest on Baboo and take the tape off. Shake and crush. First 8 of the year in the bag.
Cool off on a short 7b then nip to the Lister's for a quick post redpoint pint and early dart. Good day.

Davo:
Monday: Rested, felt wrecked after 2 days trying High Life in Cave.

Tuesday: Board Session, kind of power session but ended up not being very disciplined about it. Did a lot of chatting and tried various problems. Need to be more disciplined about things.

Wednesday: Fingerboard (weighted 5kgs)

Thursday: Was going to do endurance at wall but wrist and middle finger felt a bit weird and possibly tweaked. So did a core/front lever session on the pull up bar.

Friday: Rested for weekend

Saturday: Was about to head to the cave and from nowhere a muscle in top of my back pulled! So spent day eating ibuprofen and trying to rest it. Doh!

Sunday: Back felt okay, still a bit sore but really wanted to climb. So headed to Cave. Again fell off High Life. Not a good session, actually went backwards on redpoint. Did sort out my mistakes on one part of it. Tried Lou Ferrino again at end when I was tired. Think I will switch to Lou F this week as I have wanted to do it for ages and I am tired of failure!

So overall a frustrating week but I guess that is the way of things. Would like to see some success again soon...

shark:
Thanks for starting thread Threenine

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8anu points
Weight 11.5-6
M.
T. AM Yoga. Eve. Foundry with kids. Bouldered on Wave.
W.Lunch: 1hr Fingery endurance and some undercutting on Board
T.
F. Lunch: 1hr Fingery endurance and some undercutting on Board. Eve 15th Wedding anniversary meal with current wife.
S.Bit hungover.
S.Low motivation. Went up to Malham and son Ben came too. Nice chilly conditions. Motivation improved.  Had 3 decent goes on the Oak and dogged up Baboo. Had intended going on the Right Wing with Ben but looked wet. He had a couple of decent goes on Consenting Adults (perhaps should have gone on Rated PG at his age)

Generaaly lowish motiation this week and last week possibly due to workl pressures. Another long week – some work successes and frustrations. Family illness scare on Weds but turned out OK. Nice evening at Moran’s with Sonia on Friday. Not been there before. Food not as good as I hoped for. Looking at my diary this week Malham visit not on the cards so keep ticking over till next Sunday.  Can’t understand why I weigh so much as I feel skinny around midriff.

Falling Down:
M - Early morning run 2miles with dog. Train to London, worked all day then flew to Aberdeen in the evening.
T - Work, flight to Manchester, got home at midnight.
W - Work.  Stretching pm.
T - London and back with a full day at work in between.
F - Started work at 5am, finished at 10pm - grim.
S - Nowt, mates 40th birthday, bed by 9pm.
S - Went climbing, with a rope on, outside!  Did six routes to 6c @ Horseshoe.  Really lovely day and was very surprised with how I climbed.

Horrendously busy week at work but was so happy getting out today and was pleasantly surprised given the Tennis Elbow problems and then three months of being ill last year.  Haven't had a rope on since September but managed to lead Rain Dance, Megalithic etc today. Really chuffed and looking forward to Siurana at Easter.

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