[Three Nine]

Goals: Right Hand Man (Cheddar), 7c onsight, 7Bs, strong for Europe

M: Cardio (30 min run)
T: Anstey's, did The Cider Soak, hurrah!
W: 45 Power 2.5 hours, felt tired and not really on it
T: 45 Power 2 hours, felt a little bit better but not that much snap
F: Cardio (30 min run)
S: TCA, 30 deg woodie and a few easy problems. Got some virus, felt yuck, unproductive session.
S: Brean Down, did a 7c and some 7as. Climbed like a retard.

This week hope to train power and also get to Ansteys on Tues and do Just Revenge in a session. Also to get on an 8a at Cheddar at the weekend.

[Andy F]

Mon - rest
Tues - Awesome Liverpool. Bouldered on the 45 for about 40 mins, did one good new hardish problem. 1.5hrs mileage on the rope, 6c-7a routes.
Wed - work/family stuff
Thurs - light 20 min Beastmaker
Fri - hard 50 min Beastmaker
Sat - rest
Sun - Malham. Warm up as usual, then put the clips in Straightened. Taped up the finger tip that hurt on the crux pocket last week. Worked the bottom crux for a few goes, managed to stick it, so kept going to the rest on Baboo. Shook out, felt good so went for it. Clipped the bolt by the crux, got my right hand in the undercut and got ready to pull. Then I realised that the tape on my tip was rolling off and my hand was sliding out of the undercut! I slapped for the pinch but missed, annoyed as I felt fine.
Next go I do the hard start first go, get to the rest on Baboo and take the tape off. Shake and crush. First 8 of the year in the bag.
Cool off on a short 7b then nip to the Lister's for a quick post redpoint pint and early dart. Good day.

[Davo]

Monday: Rested, felt wrecked after 2 days trying High Life in Cave.

Tuesday: Board Session, kind of power session but ended up not being very disciplined about it. Did a lot of chatting and tried various problems. Need to be more disciplined about things.

Wednesday: Fingerboard (weighted 5kgs)

Thursday: Was going to do endurance at wall but wrist and middle finger felt a bit weird and possibly tweaked. So did a core/front lever session on the pull up bar.

Friday: Rested for weekend

Saturday: Was about to head to the cave and from nowhere a muscle in top of my back pulled! So spent day eating ibuprofen and trying to rest it. Doh!

Sunday: Back felt okay, still a bit sore but really wanted to climb. So headed to Cave. Again fell off High Life. Not a good session, actually went backwards on redpoint. Did sort out my mistakes on one part of it. Tried Lou Ferrino again at end when I was tired. Think I will switch to Lou F this week as I have wanted to do it for ages and I am tired of failure!

So overall a frustrating week but I guess that is the way of things. Would like to see some success again soon...

[shark]

Thanks for starting thread Threenine

Goal: Oak. 10,000 8anu points
Weight 11.5-6
M.
T. AM Yoga. Eve. Foundry with kids. Bouldered on Wave.
W.Lunch: 1hr Fingery endurance and some undercutting on Board
T.
F. Lunch: 1hr Fingery endurance and some undercutting on Board. Eve 15th Wedding anniversary meal with current wife.
S.Bit hungover.
S.Low motivation. Went up to Malham and son Ben came too. Nice chilly conditions. Motivation improved.  Had 3 decent goes on the Oak and dogged up Baboo. Had intended going on the Right Wing with Ben but looked wet. He had a couple of decent goes on Consenting Adults (perhaps should have gone on Rated PG at his age)

Generaaly lowish motiation this week and last week possibly due to workl pressures. Another long week – some work successes and frustrations. Family illness scare on Weds but turned out OK. Nice evening at Moran’s with Sonia on Friday. Not been there before. Food not as good as I hoped for. Looking at my diary this week Malham visit not on the cards so keep ticking over till next Sunday.  Can’t understand why I weigh so much as I feel skinny around midriff.

[Falling Down]

M - Early morning run 2miles with dog. Train to London, worked all day then flew to Aberdeen in the evening.
T - Work, flight to Manchester, got home at midnight.
W - Work.  Stretching pm.
T - London and back with a full day at work in between.
F - Started work at 5am, finished at 10pm - grim.
S - Nowt, mates 40th birthday, bed by 9pm.
S - Went climbing, with a rope on, outside!  Did six routes to 6c @ Horseshoe.  Really lovely day and was very surprised with how I climbed.

Horrendously busy week at work but was so happy getting out today and was pleasantly surprised given the Tennis Elbow problems and then three months of being ill last year.  Haven't had a rope on since September but managed to lead Rain Dance, Megalithic etc today. Really chuffed and looking forward to Siurana at Easter.

[tomtom]

STG 7B+

(away most of this week on fieldwork)
M - 10k walk (part of fieldwork)
T -  Had an outstanding lunch
W - A bit more walking at altitude.
T - Awful nights sleep - bad guts and mild fever. Some sort of gastric thing. Didnt eat a thing all day... bed at 7..



F - Spent 20 hours travelling back to UK. Ate one small pizza slice and cake.
S - Arrived back 6:30am. Ate one small meal all day
S - Knackered and de-motivated. Good gentle beastmaker session after clearing the immodium lag... felt OK ish. About to have a large meal and a beer  now normal service is resumed

Not sure how much weight I lost through shitting/not eating but my belts gone in a notch and a half... so some good news!

[lagerstarfish]

M - sick
T - sick
W - sickish; out on grit, climbed like shit, skin like baggy tissue paper due to dehydration
Th - aching joints and sore skin
F - coffee and croissant for breakfast, got 1000 words closer to Nobel prize, steak and eggs for lunch and then took baby and travel cot to trackside boulder for a quick circuit
S/Su - monopoly, cycling, wrestling

[Duma]

15th Wedding anniversary meal with current wife.

joining in...

Goal: proper 7C in the forest again. If successful, proper 7C+ in forest. If successful... etc

M:nowt, work nights
T:nowt, intend a quick session at TCA before work but post first night shift body clock intervenes
W: hour and half at TCA in eve before work - shite. keen after 10 days off post font trip, but skin appalling, soft and all the excess from a week in font just rolled off.
T: nowt, nights
F: nowt, nights
S: nowt, intended a proper long session in the pm, but once baby duty finished went for "quick nap" at 1400, woke up at 0300.
S: Baby minding in morning, TCA in pm - good session, skin much improved, 4 new whites, at  least one of which was hard, and progress on 2 more. Had a play on circuits at end of session when mate turned up. Thought about more structured sessions rather than my current nik@work^tm approach (turn up and mess around for a couple of hours). Discarded the idea. Bought Hoegaarden on cycle home. Good day.

Hopefully more sessions next week - night shifts this week slowed me down a bit. Would like to get a few more circuits in - do people think this is better done by a dedicated session, or spending some time at the end of my normal sessions?

[tommytwotone]

M - 5k run on lunch
T - 40mins hard-fought squash game at lunch. Felt shattered afterwards and I lost!
W - Pullup bar session / core session after work at home
T - Nowt, date in evening so drank a fair bit of rouge
F - Nowt, couple of beers post-work
S - Board session, felt great. Then watched Arsenal v West Ham in town, then off to the lady's for dinner
S - Lazy day - does watching Castleford get stuffed by Wigan ( ) count?

[Adam Lincoln]

Can’t understand why I weigh so much as I feel skinny around midriff.

Are you bulking up a bit muscle wise?

[shark]

Can’t understand why I weigh so much as I feel skinny around midriff.

Are you bulking up a bit muscle wise?

Unlikely as I have just been ticking over trainingwise for the past 3 weeks so I am fresh for Malham at the weekend but have put on 3/4lbs - just not sure where. I'm going to make a bigger effort to stay off the treats this week  and maybe go for a jog or two 
Are you still keeping the weight off ? Any tips on how to stay motivated ?

[nik at work]

STG - 8A in Font.

8B, 8b, (E8)

I can't really remember what I've done when this week. I've had a couple of reasonable board sessions ticking a couple of projects. I also went sport projecting and have now managed every move on a project, which is nice. Been working quite a lot this week, which sucks. Sunday my bottom went into overdrive, this is an ongoing situation. Sounds like a tip for weight loss Shark if you're interested?

[Plattsy]

Boulder Font 7A
M: Rest.
T: Foundry session. Usual problems. Elite problem in 2 halves again. The link is unlikely still. Pull/press ups.
W: Rest.
T: Foundry session. Usual problems. Ticked my second spotty problem.
F: Rest, beer, cider and tequila.
S: Wedding reception and beer festival - all day beer-a-thon.
S: Gardoms North - shutdown. Millstone - ticked Technical Master (need to go back for TM LH) and a little circuit at Over Owler Tor. Need to go back for Golden Arete/Spider Crack.

[iain]

STG: Font this Friday, 1 7B+, maybe Stubbs could share why he appears to be embaressed by doing Carnage assis, effort I think 
MTG/LTG: Freaky Ralph, onsight 7b

Mon: 12 hour cramming day
Tues: Passed exam, tried training, fingers had turned to rubber so didn't get past warm up. Decided to rest.
Wed: fingerboard, got 3/4 way through routine before powering out, demotivated
Thurs: easier fingerboard, barely started sesh as tendons/elbows started to complain during warm up  . Went to wall later and did some volume
Fri: can't remember, it's a void 
Sat: rest, buy some new shiny gear
Sun: Portland for routes, first proper sesh on Freaky Ralph and got nowhere on the crux, unable to find the short person's sequence. Otherwise felt like I was climbing and moving well.

Strange week, fairly sure I have peaked too early now, still aiming for Font goal but despite being tempted by other's radical weight loss plans main aim is to enjoy and climb loads.
Disappointed by Freaky Ralph, chose it deliberately because it didn't suit me, but there's not suiting and it being (currently) impossible. Will try and arm myself with beta and have one more good sesh before deciding.

Congrats to Threenine and Andy F for early season ticks 

@Duma, personally if I do circuits properly I can't really do anything else in the session, and I need a day off after

[nik at work]

Thought about more structured sessions rather than my current nik@work^tm approach (turn up and mess around for a couple of hours). Discarded the idea.

Good decision.

Stick with the At Work regime, it may not yield big guns but you leave the wall smiling.

[andybfreeman]

Goals – 7B in the forest, 7c route either here or in spain (may/june)

M – rest. Tried a Caldwell 20 min session but half arsed with too much rest between exercises and sets
T – session at TCA. Mainly circuits, got the new yellow 7a+ first go and did half a dozen laps tghen go distracted into trying problems, failed on some whites
W – power at mark’s, decent session
Th – planed to rest but decided to do a proper Caldwell 20 min session (5 pull ups, 10 press ups, 15 sit ups repeat with no rest until the buzzer goes) made it through did maybe 30 mini-sets
F – rest, aching like hell from my 20 mins exertion yesterday
S – long session at TCA mix of circuits and problems. Left TCA and when to the pub for a friend’s engagement party. Planned quiet(ish) night turned into a late one leaving dojos well after dawn!
Su – rest, see above. Supposed to be climbing at Brean…

Weight trending in the right direction, average for the week = 68.3kg but slightly ruined by eating too much on Friday night

Hopefully my body will recover better from the 20 min Caldwell sessions next week because I think it’s got to be good for general conditioning and they’re easy to fit in even on busy days

Next weekend I’m heading up to midlands so hopefully the weather will allow a day on the southern grit.

[Jaspersharpe]

M - Nothing, still coughing and sneezing but feeling slightly better.
T - Slightly better again. Went to the gym and surprised myself by feeling pretty strong.
W - Pain and sneezing.
T - Still quite sore from Tuesday but virtually 100% over the cold FINALLY.
F - Went to The Works and climbed ok. Nearly did one of the harder red problems that I was nowhere near two weeks ago (the last time I climbed). Went for a couple of pints with Lagers and grumpy. Planned trip to The County in June - psyched.
S - Pain and wine.
S - More pain. Went to two parks with the Mrs and sprog. Kicked football about.

Three weeks after it started I finally feel better from the minging cold. Having done nothing for over a week I was surprised at how strong I felt both at the gym and climbing. Just need to stay uninjured and healthy for a few weeks and I think I can see a path back to not being totally shit.

[Yossarian]

Monday - 30 mins recovery ride then weights and Beastmaker
Tuesday - 3 hour ride after work
Wednesday - Weights and core and Beastmaker
Thursday / Friday - Lazy
Saturday - Weights. Went to triathlon shop. Met international elite dude who trains for 5 hours every day. Bought proper trainers.  Went home.  Put on trainers. Mixed mojito.
Sunday - Meant to be doing sportive, but weather a bit crap so decided against it.  Then sun came out so spent the day doing proper Herculean gardening, digging tree roots out, etc. 

No news from Mens Health yet.  They don't know what they're missing...

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 63kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A boulder.
Stupid challenge to keep me motivated over the winter: Climb every problem in the room next to the tower at Ingleton Wall.

M: Rest Day
T: Bouldering at Inlgeton. Good session but despite getting close to one no new probs done this week. Finish off with a couple of circuits which I noticed big improvements on. PE work must be having some effect.
W: 30 minute deadhanging session.
T: Routes at Kendal. Plenty of long routes done and get close on a long 7a+ which I think may go next time now I have a sequence worked out.
F: Rest day
S: Rare routes session @ Ingleton. Routes setting there is still as hard as ever but get 10 - 12 routes done between 6b+ and 7a and warm down on a few 6b's. Felt really tired afterwards.
S: Had a morning free so popped over to Malham. Busy, busy there so got on one of the few free 7a's - Sycophants. Warmed up by repeating the first easy section a few times. Next time worked out the moves through the crux, then did it clean next go. Found it high in the grade but really good to get the 7's account opened for the year. Had lunch in the coffee shop and walked the dogs for the afternoon.

Probably no routes next weekend as Mrs (aka climbing partner) is on call. 

Nice one Andy F by the way for your tick on Sunday.

[Fatboy]

STG: Get strength and stamina back after 6 month lay-off due to herniating a disk in my back.
MTG: Repeat hardest problems done before injury and climb new project, Chillax (6c) in Glendalough, Ireland.
LTG: Boulder 7a in Font.

Mon: Work. Evening - General session down at the wall, pumped out after 30 minutes but just glad to be back.
Tues: Work. Rest - forearms feel like I did a whole days worth of climbing but expected it, worked in the evening.
Wed: Work. Rest - forearms recovering.
Thurs: Work. Evening - General session down at the wall - managed most of my usual warm-up problems before pump set in.
Fri: Work. Evening - Headed down to IMC hut in Glendalough for Irish bouldering meet, caught up with folks, drank a lot of fine English ales, headed to pub, drank Guinness, passed out in sleeping bag around 2(ish)
Sat: Opened eyes and winced at expected hangover but nothing there (RESULT!), climbed a few easy problems, fell off some others but back held out fine with no twinges (AWESOME!!), went to pub for Irish match, walked back down to boulders in the dark to watch night session
Sun: Acted as meet photographer, didn't get shoes on = rest?

Great week overall and just glad to be back bouldering and this week will include a more structured training regime which will hopefully be reflected in this post next week.

[nai]

Goals - 7C (most likely to be Demon Wall Roof Left-Hand)

M – very sore from two days on over weekend
T – still sore
W – Day of trad fell through so an afternooon at Ramshaw. Took 6 attempts to get Night of Lust which I would nearly might have onsighted a month a go only to be thwarted by wet holds entering the groove.  Couldn’t even read it this time    Shut down by Lust Left Hand, described as a crimpy rail so it should be right up my alley.  Progress on Ram Air was pleasing but it was eating my skin.  Then went on Tierdrop but my fingers were uncurling out of the runnel, tired by then I think
Th – a bit sore, set off for Ramshaw at lunchtime but saw sense and headed to supermarket instead.  Gazed longingly at almond croissants, there was a definite pause but I managed to keep walking.
Fr – 90 mins at Ramshaw, tried Tierdrop first, ok to the runnel but shutdown by the last move, seems a loooong way and also a long way down when you miss with no spotters.  Went back on Ram Air -  held the high gaston, smeared, brought my right foot up…..  Left hand shot off skinning my  tips and taking a couple of knuckles, landed badly and turned my ankle.  Swore a lot then hobbled back to the car trying to recall Boysen's quote about Ramshaw.
S – licked my wounds.
S – walked up to Birchen with 2 stone on my shoulders, intention was for the mrs to blodder on the three ships and me solo some easy stuff.  Just spent an hour chasing the kids around instead which was probably about as fun.  Fingers hurt to touch rock anyway.

Concious effort made to stay off snacks and wine after last week's indulgences.  Had two decentish sessions given that I was climbing with taped/thin tips.  Probably need to hit the fingerboard for a while until skin is repaired then get out and crush.  Got a bit of late season pyche returned, keen to get back to almscliff before the temps sore.

[JamesD]

Ok....so I took it shamefully easy this week, my fingers were toast after last week and I was just about completely useless on Sunday, seemingly unable to even pop up on the easiest of sit starts, proper 

So I took stock and decided to take a week off of bouldering and get some recovery time.

Monday: Swimming, steam, sauna

Tuesday: Weights, pushing exercises (inc: tricep work, dumbell chest press, and other similar stuff), intense core workout, long flexibility stretching session, missus was pleased as she is making substantial gains in her flexibility now

Wednesday: Rest, cigar, booze, hung out with housemates french boyfriend. Enjoyed practicing my slightly better than mediocre French.

Thursday: Looooong gym session, hammered the back and stomach and hips again, loads of wobble board and swiss ball work, felt good, had a nice long swim.

Friday: Longer Swim really went for it, then realised my cardio fitness has gone to shit (due to a lack of cycling in the last month) steam, sauna, relaxxxxxx.

Saturday: See above, bit shorter session this time though.

Sunday: Had a good time down at the wall, warmed up on some comfy V0's, hit a few V1's first time, did a load of others, was quite pleased my planned moves worked out, did my first problem on the 45 degree overhang, only thing frustrating me at the moment is not being able to nail the sit starts on 2 particular V1's, the only V1's that I couldn't manage in the place last night.
It seems I need to lose weight and work on my pinch grip strength a little, irritating as hell since the problems look really doable, and well within my abilities if it wasn't for the really tough hand holds at the sit start of each one.
The crazy cardio weightloss plan starts this week, and the drastic diet change starts from Friday (no more chocolate, no more cake....except maybe at weekends....)

[chillax]

Goals: Fair Head E3, boulder 7b, be able to do 2.4 Pascals by Dec's sequence

Mon: Lots of pullups and pushups
Tues: Nil
Wed: Murlough Bay. Tried a really hard 7a and made some moves. Found a (rare) sub-7c project which I might be able to do. Worked out the moves then it got dark. Must go back to that one
Thurs: Nada
Fri: Travelled to wicklow for meet (bomb scare on train. Irritating). Managed about half an hour in Glendasan before the rain rolled in. Got slagged for picking up northern accent. Didn't get too drunk again.
Sat: Great weather in glendo. Didn't climb anything I wanted to but did manage to get off the ground on some things I've never been able to touch before, even dropping the top of one. Frustrating, but still progress.
Sun: Wrecked what remained of my skin on some comically undergraded lowball at Turlough Hill. Nice moves. Will go back to it some day with thick skin. Buggered off back up north.

Realised I have a serious weakness on crimps and body tension. Will start doing a bit more work on that.

[shark]

Sunday my bottom went into overdrive, this is an ongoing situation. Sounds like a tip for weight loss Shark if you're interested?

I'll pass on that...

I once had a weight loss competition with a lodger - a chocoholic pharmacist. She resorted to laxatives to win until I cried 'foul'.

Some interesting examples of structural permanent weight loss. Keith Sharples 'permanently' lost a few kilos following a stomach bug in Thailand and Lance Armstrong famously came out of chemo with a different leaner body shape.

[Three Nine]

oh almost forgot my most important short-term goal of ranking above shark on the 8a.nu routes table

[shark]

oh almost forgot my most important short-term goal of ranking above shark on the 8a.nu routes table

I suddenly seem to have regained my motivation. Kalymnos here I come..

[JamesD]

Sunday my bottom went into overdrive, this is an ongoing situation. Sounds like a tip for weight loss Shark if you're interested?

I'll pass on that...

I once had a weight loss competition with a lodger - a chocoholic pharmacist. She resorted to laxatives to win until I cried 'foul'.

Some interesting examples of structural permanent weight loss. Keith Sharples 'permanently' lost a few kilos following a stomach bug in Thailand and Lance Armstrong famously came out of chemo after hormone replacement therapy (steroid therapy) with a different leaner body shape.

Fixed 

[Stubbs]

Aims:
Be the best climber in Suffolk
Regularly burn off Cockerneys at the Westway
Zoo York
Do some planning to get in good shape for Magic Wood trip in summer

M: Still a bit tired from Font, about 50 pullups
T: Beastmaker, slopers, dragging and pockets
W: Beastmaker as above
T: Nowt climbing wise
F: Drive to Leeds, drink some cider and Whiskey
S: Raining (booo) Depot (yay!) did ok. Lack of steep wall climbing showed but fingers felt good. Thai food and lots of booze.
S: Drive to London away from beautiful weather. Go for a nice walk.

No mid week drinking, but too much at the weekend. Feeling improvements on the Beastmaker, think I'll prioritise that for a few more weeks.

[Fiend]

Goals:
Climb on something other than bloody Central Highlands schist.
Find someone to actually go climbing with over the easter week.

This week:
Mon - 10 minute run (5/1/5), tired and hungry, theraband + stretching.
Tue - n/a
Wed - n/a / very reluctantly join FuckingCuntBook to try to solidify climbing contacts.
Thu - n/a
Fri - 2 hours hard thin bouldering, no upward progress but good training I guess, finger okay / 15 min run (5/1/5/1/5), hard but managed it / theraband and stretching.
Sat - 1 good trad lead, 1 hour hard dogging, finger sore from pressure in pocket and then thin moves, shoulder fine / theraband and stretching.
Sun - n/a / theraband and stretching / pancakes / coffee.

Comments
A very mixed week that was initially dismal. My mood is consistently low at the moment which makes it hard to do much let alone train well on my own. Things obviously improved at the weekend, I'm consolidating trad fine which is nice, I just want to apply it to some more exciting places. My finger is still problematic, much more so with pressure on it than with actually crimping. I will have to be more diligent. Shoulder still gets achey from sleeping on it funny (poor mood - poor sleep) rather than climbing, but the theraband is helping.

[webbo]

STG
recover from back injury
LTG
not have a back injury
Mon beastmaker repeaters 2x 5 diffrent grips
Tue drank beer
Wed bouldering rockcity climbed ok to say i've not climbed for over 2 weeks.a bit anxious jumping off.
Thu drank wine
Fri short session rockcity repeated everything i did wednesday and worked a couple of harder things.
Sat leeds wall on way to visit my mother. flashed most of the stuff i'd done 3 weeks ago.so quite pleased.
Sun cycling 3 hours 10 mins.i've been lent a bike to try by rockcity.one of only a handle of lapierre road bikes in the uk.got a bit carried away drafting a tractor backed off when my heart rate hit 187.
back now feels ok still doing lots of stretching.

[roddersm]

2010 Goals:

Trad: Onsight lots of E2s (including left wall if i get to wales), several E3s and possibly a couple of E4s, Boulder 7a+/b , sport onsight 7a (spain). Onsight debelof 6c+ and biscott margerine 6b+ in verdon.

Mon  Running 48 min approx about 5.7 miles
Tue   Climbing wall sesson 1.5 hrs bouldering and some stamina circuits       
Wed  Bouldering at Fairhead 3hrs or so- did a few laps on a 5c and a 6c and sieged a hard 7a and fucked up my finger
Thur  Rested: depressed for fucking up finger.
Fri     Ran 48min approx: about 5.7 miles
Sat    Ran 1 hr 8 min 8.5 miles; Watched ireland loose to scotland in rugby and drank beer.
Sun   Did tommy caldwell workout 20 min (sets of 5 pullups, 10 push ups, 15 sit ups with no rest) managed 11 sets and almost die. Go running 44 min about 5.2 miles. Some stretches.     

[Adam Lincoln]

Are you still keeping the weight off ? Any tips on how to stay motivated ?

Well i let it all go back on in the New Year so i could train heavy. It's coming off a bit now though. Going to keep it at 10st 7 for a while as that is easy to maintain. If needs be i can shed more for hard projects.

[Doylo]

Are you still keeping the weight off ? Any tips on how to stay motivated ?

Well i let it all go back on in the New Year so i could train heavy. It's coming off a bit now though. Going to keep it at 10st 7 for a while as that is easy to maintain. If needs be i can shed more for hard projects.

As Lincoln says the best way to stay motivated to lose a bit of weight is not to do it all year. If you have to suffer a bit of short term torture to get some good ticks then its a lot easier to shun that chocolate eclair. Trying to maintain a below average (for yourself) weight just makes you miserable and your body soon adapts to its usual strength anyway. Everytime you fancy soemthing a bit naughty just imagine getting to the end of that project and the elation you will feel when you get there.

[shark]

Good advice - I can incorporate with a seasonal plan:

Dec/Jan/Feb     Brrr..too cold/wet: Train like your hair's on fire
Mar/Apr/May    Good conditions: Diet & Crush routes
Jun/Jul/Aug      Too warm/humid: Train like your hair's on fire
Sept/Oct/Nov   Good conditions: Diet & Crush routes

...and repeat for 10 years

[BB]

STG get the knee back to normal following the op.
Goals for the year: another f7a, an E1 and a 7A.

M - knee exercises followed by 40 mins gentle traversing and some light bouldering at Swindon
T - Knee Exercises
W - Physio on the knee in the hydro-pool followed by 40 mins gentle traversing and some light bouldering at Swindon
T - Knee Exercises
F - knee exercises followed  by 40 mins gentle traversing and some light bouldering at Swindon
S - rest
S - slightly more intensive Bouldering at TCA

The knee feels good and I've already cycled the 2 miles to work and back twice this week on the single speed. Desperately trying to get the strength back for April long weekend in the Ariege.

[Doylo]

yeh and make sure you eat lots of cheescake in the 'train like your hairs on fire' periods

[lagerstarfish]

M - sick
T - sick
W - sickish; out on grit, climbed like shit, skin like baggy tissue paper due to dehydration
Th - aching joints and sore skin
F - coffee and croissant for breakfast, got 1000 words closer to Nobel prize, steak and eggs for lunch and then took baby and travel cot to trackside boulder for a quick circuit
S/Su - monopoly, cycling, wrestling

forgot to add

weight 14st 5lb

body fat 29% 
below 30% for the first time in 2 years (peak was a scary 38%)

[andybfreeman]

Th – planed to rest but decided to do a proper Caldwell 20 min session (5 pull ups, 10 press ups, 15 sit ups repeat with no rest until the buzzer goes) made it through did maybe 30 mini-sets

Are we permitted any kind of warm-up before the Caldwell sets? For the less-young, it sounds to me like a perfect recipe for badly buggered elbows?

not sure what's allowed but after wrecking myself last thursday i reckon some form of warm up might by a good idea!
i'm tempted by the mcginley routine that stevie haston mentioned in climb as an alternative - 1 pull up, 3 press ups, 2 pull ups 6 press ups, continue to 10 pull ups and 30 press ups, as that seems to have an element of warm up built in

[Norton Sharley]

Good advice - I can incorporate with a seasonal plan:

Dec/Jan/Feb     Brrr..too cold/wet: Train like your hair's on fire
Mar/Apr/May    Good conditions: Diet & Crush routes
Jun/Jul/Aug      Too warm/humid: Train like your hair's on fire
Sept/Oct/Nov   Good conditions: Diet & Crush routes

...and repeat for 10 years

Where or what are Diet & Crush routes?  Is that like short routes for people who can't do the full power versions?

[SA Chris]

Groundhog week! Goals blah blah

M - walked to work and back - 1 hr. Dug dumbells out and did some bicep curls.
T - walked to work and back - 1 hr. Did some rows.
W - walked to work and back - 1 hr. Did some things with dumbell behind head (no idea of name) until triceps hurt. weekly with in - 14st 3/4 lb - NNFN - alarm bells.
T -  Car in garage, got bus. - did some bicep curls.
F - walked to work and back - 1 hr. Did a bit of therabanding.
S - did a bit of work about house. started feeling dodgy.
S - felt like crap, eye of needle bug. Did some gargening and then lay down and slept. Bugger.

[shark]

Good advice - I can incorporate with a seasonal plan:

Dec/Jan/Feb     Brrr..too cold/wet: Train like your hair's on fire
Mar/Apr/May    Good conditions: Diet & Crush routes
Jun/Jul/Aug      Too warm/humid: Train like your hair's on fire
Sept/Oct/Nov   Good conditions: Diet & Crush routes

...and repeat for 10 years

Where or what are Diet & Crush routes?  Is that like short routes for people who can't do the full power versions?

As opposed to routes for short people who can !

Come on its time for you to post and boast otherwise I'm outing you...

[duncan]

Thanks for the nudge Simon

STG: E3 / climb El Cap.
LTG: E5

M - Shoulder stability stuff.
T - Shoulder stability stuff.
W - 7 mins. x F5 warm-up. 
T - Shoulder stability stuff.
F - Collapsed in a heap (see other news)
S - Shoulder stability stuff.
S - Climbing partner cancelled so... 9 mins. x F5 warm-up. 

In other news, I submitted my PhD thesis, my PhD supervisor was made redundant (no connection, I think...) and my other research collaborator in the department was forced into early retirement.  Quite hard to focus on training with all this going on.

[mark s]

Summer goals-do some upper french 7's again.
Also get some fitness in the bag for some of the dovedale classics this summer.
Mon-wall,stamina
Tue-wall,fast up and down circuit
Wed-roaches for a potter
Thur wall,steady mess around.
Fri,nothin
Sat cwif,more of a social and bit of a mess around.didn't even pull on most probs.cracking day out tho.
Sun-roaches for a play around with andi.

[Monolith]

Monday - Uni
Tuesday - Uni
Weds - Uni
Thursday - Got up at 6am, ran til 6.35, then hit fingerboard hard for 40 mins and finished with 100 crunches and a butt load of press ups. Got to uni for 8.45 and had a very productive way. Realised this has to be the antidote to avoid feeling tired in evenings and getting home too late to train.
Friday- Uni
Saturday - Felt sore.
Sunday - Played 80 min 11 a side football with 6 min half time. This was exhausting but we stuffed the toffs from the department in a 4-3 victory. Played left back and put in some proud tackles. Thought of Kuyt as my work ethic inspiration all game. Playing again soon.

A good week. Worked out it has to be early doors training which then sets me up for getting into studio before other s arrive and distract. Off out 6am again tomorrow. Must get on project asap...

[Charles]

Belated posting and struggling to remember what I did last week due to 4 days in Prague this week (its tapering - honest).

Short term goal: Climb 7a every day on Font trip (End of March)
Mid term goals: Redpoint F8a > Get fit for Mallorca > Powerband (All by September)
Long term goals: Onsight F7c > Climb font 8a (All by September 2011)

Monday - Climbing Works. Felt weak and rubbish.
Tuesday - Matrix.
Wednesday - Worked
Thursday - Matrix. Really good session. Did 10 problems at 7a or above including a 7b+. Went out for a couple of drinks. Got carried away.
Friday - Complete write off. Remember getting a taxi door opened on to my left hand. Said hand now swollen.
Saturday - Try to play on basement board. Left hand feels weak and painful and swollen. Rest and Ice.
Sunday - Day one of Prague. General debauchery.

Was slightly annoyed that I couldn't train Friday and Saturday as it meant extended lay off time. Hopefully I won't have got too fat from Prague and the week rest will do me good before Font on the 27th!

[richdraws]

Weight - 76kg up by 2kg in a week!
Goal weight - 70kg
Boulder 7c+
Do some sport climbing

Mon- Lunch gym session. 2x Javorak DB complex No1. 2x Javorek wrist exercises. 3sets of 2rep deadlifts with 160kg.
Tue- Fingerboard mostly unweighted and campus stuff.
Wed- sat on train to London drinking alcohol with work mates. Went out in London drinking.
Thur - 8 hours of Hangover sat in a cinema learning the finer points of animation from some nice geek from pixar. Followed by Italian and drinking.
Friday - 6 hours of Hangover sat in a cinema learning the finer points of sotry/character development from some less interesting Pixar geek. followed by drinking and a train home.
Sat -right off but managed a bit of fingerboarding
Sun - Went to Stanage planning to do get some technique back doing problems I have done previously and do some mantles and topping out! Did the mantle/straight up on green trav, did cpt hook (the top out felt the hardest part), a few other bits and bobs then thought I would get on Brad Pitt. 1st go matched on ramp set for top - fall, 2nd go same. 3rd go couldnt get off the deck but stupidly kept trying for 30 mins. Watched a strong frenchy flash it and a few other strong frenchies not flashing it at all. Went home pleased and skinned.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Cheers for the nudge Simon, no idea where this week's gone

Goals: F7c this year, Font 7B again, F8a before 2014, recover from current injury.

M: Nowt
T: Physio - Got new excercise plan... Said my upper bod's well strong (but lets face it any climber is probably stronger than the grannies they mostly see) but my legs and core are somewhat lacking.. So play to my (meagre) strengths and Campus and Fingerboard  @ The Works:
13531351 x 4 (big rungs) leading alternate arms, 14141 x 4 (middle rungs) leading alternate arms, 1434343 x 4 (middle rungs) leading alternate arms. Repeaters + 5kg on slopes, Encores + 5kg half crimp, Encores + 5kg front 3, Repeaters + 5kg front 2 on pockets, Repeaters + 5kg mid 2 on pockets. Assisted 1 arm hangs on 2nd smallest campus rung x 6 alternate arms - 18kg - DDDDestroyed!
W: Did new core and physio excercises - OMG!! Double destroyed!
T: Resumed building on woodie..... 3 panels to go!
F: Nowt
S: Dranks booze and ate cakes.
S: Went to Caley, did zigzag crack and pine tree arete... Not done either before so was nice. Good to see how hooking with the right leg held up on the arete - all moving in the right direction.

All good... Font is looming so just gotta keep on keeping on.

:D

[Jim]

wow, you lot go climbing a lot.

weight at start of week=90kg
stated diet thursday properly
currently tipping the scales at 88.5kg so showing some improvement despite being called a pregnant horse!
Target weight<80kg

tues-light garage session, good to get back in there. really enjoyed it
wed-cave, good session. need to get some fitness & strength back.

hopefully get the ladder up tonight & tomorrow night for some reps

[shark]

Jim's in.. 

[Jim]

ladder session tonight - epic fail
hopefully tomorrow night

[Doylo]

currently tipping the scales at 88.5kg so showing some improvement despite being called a pregnant horse!

Some people are well shady!

[Serpico]

Jim's in.. 

He'll be keeping a training diary next...

[andy popp]

Mon: nothing
Tues: nice evening out locally, nothing spectacular, discover lots of potential at kind of new venue. Excellent!
Wed: nothing
Thurs: swim 5x25m
Fri-Sat: run round like blue-arsed fly trying to get ready to go away
Sun: huge travel day but make it to HP40 by nightfall, just.