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Micro Mini or Mini Micro
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bigphil
menacing presence
Posts: 241
Karma: +2/-0
Micro Mini or Mini Micro
July 28, 2004, 01:32:06 pm
Anyone have a boulering grade for this, seeing as its a micro-route/highball boulder problem?
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dave
Guest
#1 Micro Mini or Mini Micro
July 28, 2004, 01:36:45 pm
is this that supposed E2 thing near flying buttress? dunno what it is but looks desperate, never seen anyone on it let alone doing it.
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Bonjoy
Global Moderator
forum hero
Leafy gent
Posts: 9953
Karma: +562/-9
#2 Micro Mini or Mini Micro
July 28, 2004, 01:53:33 pm
Have bouldered the first half out but didn't have a pad so didn't try the top throw.
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Nigel
forum hero
Posts: 1755
Karma: +165/-1
#3 Micro Mini or Mini Micro
July 28, 2004, 01:55:39 pm
About V6 I reckon. Total waddage and very photogenic aswell. Should be a part of everyone's Stanage solo circuit. Clean the ledge just before the top as you descend down past it after doing Flying Buttress, its usually pretty green.
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bigphil
menacing presence
Posts: 241
Karma: +2/-0
#4 Micro Mini or Mini Micro
July 28, 2004, 02:01:32 pm
Cheers for the knowledge. I did the start last night but never made the throw for the ledge. Based on the one other V6 I have done I thought it about the same.
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Nigel
forum hero
Posts: 1755
Karma: +165/-1
#5 Micro Mini or Mini Micro
July 28, 2004, 09:24:41 pm
Put a tick mark on the best bit of the ledge by leaning in from above. You can always brush it off afterwards.
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Bonjoy
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Leafy gent
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#6 Micro Mini or Mini Micro
July 29, 2004, 09:04:48 am
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Nigel
forum hero
Posts: 1755
Karma: +165/-1
#7 Micro Mini or Mini Micro
July 29, 2004, 04:23:32 pm
Ha! Thought you might like that :D
But seriously; on the day when you think you're gonna get the problem, stick a couple of beers in the river to chill, so you can celebrate in style. Cheers! :drink:
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clm
forum hero
Posts: 1384
Karma: +33/-3
#8 Micro Mini or Mini Micro
August 12, 2004, 07:48:50 pm
no tick marks no pad :
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jonjon
addict
Posts: 149
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#9 Re: Micro Mini or Mini Micro
March 25, 2010, 09:59:15 pm
from the break - is it right foot on the hold just above first break and then throw up to the top? I.E. push off break and right foot? A bit morpho/hard for E2 6a?
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Sloper
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fat and weak but with good footwork.
Posts: 5199
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#10 Re: Micro Mini or Mini Micro
March 26, 2010, 05:06:44 pm
photo / location, this sounds like a good one.
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clm
forum hero
Posts: 1384
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#11 Re: Micro Mini or Mini Micro
March 26, 2010, 05:46:58 pm
stand in break or a slightly higher foothold if there is one. Take tiny knife edged crimp/flake in vertical seam. Paste foot on high and send.
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jonjon
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Posts: 149
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#12 Re: Micro Mini or Mini Micro
March 26, 2010, 06:58:54 pm
Thanks - crack/seam on left was wet so i ignored it, and consequently tried over-hard rock over lurches from break to break.
Another to go back to.
Sloper...its the little wall left of flying buttress at stanage, needs a mat or two and preferably a spot, oh and it doesn't dry quite as quick as rest of stanage
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Sloper
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fat and weak but with good footwork.
Posts: 5199
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#13 Re: Micro Mini or Mini Micro
March 26, 2010, 07:24:57 pm
?The wall to the left of the little arete with the loose hold?
If so 6a seems a real sandbag, reachy 6b?
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clm
forum hero
Posts: 1384
Karma: +33/-3
#14 Re: Micro Mini or Mini Micro
March 26, 2010, 07:43:06 pm
e2 6b
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Sloper
forum hero
fat and weak but with good footwork.
Posts: 5199
Karma: +130/-78
#15 Re: Micro Mini or Mini Micro
March 26, 2010, 07:53:22 pm
My favourite grade!
Incidentally does anyone know if the wall to the right of kirkus' corner (not the arete which is every man and his dog's new route) has been done? It's steep with some interesting moves but the top is hard to stick and with a frightening fall was deemed to be unjustified.
At a guess probably font 7a+ to 7b+
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Jim
Trusted Users
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Mostly Injured
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Pregnant Horse
#16 Re: Micro Mini or Mini Micro
March 26, 2010, 10:13:59 pm
can we all chip in and get Clm a massive fucking medal with hero or similar printed on it
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clm
forum hero
Posts: 1384
Karma: +33/-3
#17 Re: Micro Mini or Mini Micro
March 27, 2010, 07:07:40 am
have none of you got a stanage guide? Pretty sure you mean spasticus artisticus. E4 5c.
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clm
forum hero
Posts: 1384
Karma: +33/-3
#18 Re: Micro Mini or Mini Micro
March 27, 2010, 07:10:17 am
and jim, have you checked the date on that post. Wake the fuck up! The only grade you know owt about is e7
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