[tim palmer]

in which case you do, i apologise.  There is a difference between saying something is hard and saying something is soft for the grade, namely, having done the route or problem. 

[Paul B]

Of course you can have an opinion, I've got endless opinions on stuff I know very little/fuck all about so you having an opinion on the grade of a problem you've almost done is fine and dandy. But if someone is making bold statements about a problems grade it would be informative to know whether this was a ticked problem, work in progress or even based on a hazy memory from several years ago when said person had a play on the moves for five minutes and it didn't seem that bad. Just to get a sense of perspective.

Completely, and then you can guage the worth of such information. However at the end of the day all you're going to be left with is an opinion.

no, because that doesn't make any sense.

That was kinda my point 

[robertostallioni]

Is the word on the grapevine right, Tim? Are you Sheff-bound soon?

Discussions under the motherboard will draw crowds for sure..

[carlisle slapper]

After watching Sharik do press sit left 2nd or 3rd go or something by flicking LH to sloper from the start slot and jumping through to the crimp, i concluded 2 things i already suspected. He's a monster (easy conclusion) and it isn't 8a+. He found tsunami (match way) harder and superman took him a fair bit longer ( he used the proper holds on this too)

In my opinion low left is 8a, it is easier than hooligan start (all the way to the flake), superman, and some 8A MGCO3 problems of Dolphs.

Bigger belly is pretty specialist and quintessentially british, esoterically weird but hard too (and a bit shitty) maybe it is 8b in retrospect, either way it should see off heavy types and chubby fingered types from the get go. It is very workable however even with just 1 pad and doesn't tend to seep which (IMHO) counts towards it being soft for the grade, oh to have my ring fingers back in their mingdom

We (me Ned Dave) nick named stand up was nicknamed johnny G 7c, and it is a lovely move, i don't know if you want to stick that in too.

can i have my toffee now please?

[soapy]

How is what I said hogwash exactly? 

..as a proportion of your 5,700+ posts..?

[Jaspersharpe]

84.3% actually but that one was one of the 15.7% that wasn't.

[tim palmer]

yeah, well maybe,

Is the word on the grapevine right, Tim? Are you Sheff-bound soon?

Discussions under the motherboard will draw crowds for sure..

well maybe, depends on the exam passing situatioon

[Jim]

I waltzed along to the final move of a problem in Magic Wood given a lofty grade and then fell off tickling the jug. I tried this a few more times (less than 3) and it was seriously just a matter of time before I stuck it. I instantly pronounced it soft.

out of interest, what problem was this?

I've lost count of the amount of problems I've said this about and then its turned out that holding the final jug or whatever the move was is the crux

I have never done a single problem on this piece of rock and think they are all about 10d

[robertostallioni]

Then you're gonna need to get your own coat.

[tim palmer]

I will have to pick one up to keep me happy whilst getting burnt off by all the strong boys

[Dave Westlake]

what are people's foot sequences on tsunami for the matching sloper bit? i find the match hideous. (the crux is never getting into that undercut)
kudos easy way is not 7a+ you mentalist albarro. 7b. agree with others.

I put left foot in low pocket, right toe on small polished flakey thing out right, then flag with left foot to match the sloper. 

If the move to the undercut is so easy, I must be doing it wrong.  Ive only done the move about 3 times but I rarely fall on the sloper match now (well, last year when I last tried it)

My beta for the undercut move was:  change heel-toe to a toe, rock weight onto it and flag left foot under and onto decent foothold down and right (where there are a few options - I think the one I used has broken now making it a bit harder?)  Then 'flick' left hand into undercut

Anyone got any better methods???  I never was much good at flick type moves

[Jaspersharpe]

If you flag your LF to the correct hold it creates a solid position to be able to reach for the undercut in control. Really important to get the RH sidepull just right too. I found if I didn't get it spot on then I couldn't do the move.

[Ru]

Thanks all. Low left press will probably go in at 8a.

[abarro81]

Whilst I can see where Jasper etc. are coming from, I'm slightly more inclined toward the Tim's side here... Let's not forget that stuff can be surprisingly hard/easy to finish off on the link compared to how it feels as moves or even in sections.

Maybe you could apply MATHS (science is very last year). The guidebook grade is 0, anyone who's done it and thinks it should go up a grade give it +10 points (or 2 grades  +20 etc), anyone who's done it and thinks it should go down can give it -10 points. Those who haven't done it can only give +/-2 points. Tally them up and you have your grade, then when anyone complains you can simply point them at the numbers. Proof.
F*ck I'm cool.

[saltbeef]

If you flag your LF to the correct hold it creates a solid position to be able to reach for the undercut in control. Really important to get the RH sidepull just right too. I found if I didn't get it spot on then I couldn't do the move.

like jasper says flag left enough, and remember to pull like fuck with right hand and you can lock to it.

[Dave Westlake]

If you flag your LF to the correct hold it creates a solid position to be able to reach for the undercut in control. Really important to get the RH sidepull just right too. I found if I didn't get it spot on then I couldn't do the move.

Cheers Jasper, that makes sense.  I think it will depend on leg length to some extent though.   i.e. those with short legs (me) might find themselves more 'horizontal' and therefore less secure when flagging on the foothold.  Or maybe it is just a case of experimenting more with different footholds

[Jaspersharpe]

When I did BSD low right I employed a complicated three foot move sequence to get into the right position for that move, the third being moving my LF down to the lower of the three holds that it was possible to flag onto. Being weak as fuck it was only this convoluted faggotry that made the moves possible for me but the point is, if you were smaller, then the step down might not be necessary and the solid position would certainly be achievable by using one of the two higher flaggable edges.

Hope this helps. The problem took me forever so those footholds are firmly imprinted in my brain!

[a dense loner]

in which case you do, i apologise.  There is a difference between saying something is hard and saying something is soft for the grade, namely, having done the route or problem.

stop talking fucking bollocks

[slackline]

in which case you do, i apologise.  There is a difference between saying something is hard and saying something is soft for the grade, namely, having done the route or problem.

stop talking fucking bollocks

  one of the most outstanding contradictions in recent UKB history (unless there is a tinge of sarcasm that hasn't translated well over t'net).

[Jaspersharpe]

I'm just amazed nobody's called me a dick yet on this thread.

[nik at work]

You dick

[Andy B]

I agree with Tim.

I'll try and chip in my two penneth about most of these problems this afternoon.

[Shy Ted]

My opinion is Simpson's link is solid 8a+, Press low left is very soft 8a+ or top end 8a, Tsunami is as hard as press LL, press LR is top end 7c+, press kneeling is soft 7c+, BSD LR is nails (hard 7c+).  Never tried Big belly but I've touched the holds and they're wank so it probably is hard. Oh yeah and Dancing fish is solid 8a, in my opinion anyway

[dobbin]

I agree with paul er, I mean Shy Ted

[Jaspersharpe]

BSD LR is nails (hard 7c+).

I wish!