[Peak][Gardoms][7B] Wishbone (Read 8705 times)

Ru · February 18, 2010, 02:33:45 pm

Does anyone know anything about a roof problem at Gardom's North exiting from the right side of the low roof containing a 6b on the left arete and a 6c problem through the middle with a mantel top out? The problem is about 7b+ and I had heard that Rich Heap did the first ascent, but he's not so sure. It's on the second roof as you walk into the main area, the one after A Tasty Graunch. I think it's on Bonjoy's list as "Low Mantel Roof RH ?"

I'm looking for name/ first ascent etc.

Bonjoy · February 18, 2010, 02:41:18 pm

The FA was either Harris or Heap. I'm not aware a name was given. You could try PMing Andy

dave · February 18, 2010, 02:46:20 pm

heap & spanish kev apparently. is this a contender for the lowballest thing in the peak?

Somebody's Fool · February 18, 2010, 02:51:27 pm

Is this it?

If so, it's called 'Joint Care' and it's on page three of the Midgrade Gardoms thread.

dave · February 18, 2010, 02:53:19 pm

Quote from: Somebody's Fool on February 18, 2010, 02:51:27 pm

Is this it?

Thats a negatory good buddy.

Andy B · February 18, 2010, 03:00:26 pm

Joint Care is positively highball compared to the RH Roof mantel problem thingy.

Bonjoy · February 18, 2010, 03:11:50 pm

If it was Spanish '8c' Kev who did it first then I think this might be the problem I've heard reference to as 8c Cave

Ru · February 18, 2010, 03:36:07 pm

Quote from: dave on February 18, 2010, 02:46:20 pm

heap & spanish kev apparently. is this a contender for the lowballest thing in the peak?

Except Rich doesn't think he's done it. It's not Joint Care.

Bonjoy · February 18, 2010, 03:47:17 pm

I'm certain Harris has done at least an early ascent

cofe · February 18, 2010, 04:00:21 pm

He is in his mid 70s after all.

Johnny Brown · February 18, 2010, 05:35:03 pm

8c cave is at the other end. I wouldn't put it in a guide, unless as an illustration of just what people will climb.

simes · February 18, 2010, 05:37:32 pm

Quote from: Somebody's Fool on February 18, 2010, 02:51:27 pm

Is this it?

If so, it's called 'Joint Care' and it's on page three of the Midgrade Gardoms thread.

The spotter seems to be looking at the floor.

Ru · February 18, 2010, 05:42:18 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on February 18, 2010, 05:35:03 pm

I wouldn't put it in a guide, unless as an illustration of just what people will climb.

There's enough of those in already.

Johnny Brown · February 18, 2010, 05:48:57 pm

Kudos wall staying in then?

Offwidth · February 18, 2010, 05:52:52 pm

Remember Niall has put a Gardoms pdf on the BMC site.

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3519

Andy Harris · February 18, 2010, 06:19:12 pm

Rich did indeed do the 1st ascent, i know as i was watching. Unless you were a piece of paper it would be technically impossible to spot anyone on it. Personally I'd like think it just means you need extreme body tension and less than adequate glutes.

I think we thought it 7b as it actually has quite a hard tension move from the good crimp in the roof(rh) to the top. Then a tasty graunch to finish. The name escapes me. It started as for the obvious RH roof problem and quickly goes right & out.

Fiend · February 18, 2010, 06:24:55 pm

Is this another One Inch More

north_country_boy · February 18, 2010, 06:43:53 pm

Quote from: Andy Harris on February 18, 2010, 06:19:12 pm

Unless you were a piece of paper it would be technically impossible to spot anyone on it. Personally I'd like think it just means you need extreme body tension and less than adequate glutes.

Luckily I frequently take this guy out bouldering with me.

Ru · February 20, 2010, 09:08:24 am

Rich Heap has now remembered - he did do it, it's 7b, and it's called Wishbone.

Andy Harris · February 20, 2010, 08:28:57 pm

It is low but not as much (or shabby) as One more inch.