[Ally Smith]

Last year I saw quickdraws hanging from the project roof above and left of the Split Infinity bouldering area.

I know it's early in the season, but now i see that the draws have gone and some of the bolt hnagers have been removed.

Who's project was/is this? Is it likely to be uber hard, or just moderately tuffski?

Has this project been abandoned, or is it fair game to get on it?

[Adam Lincoln]

I think its Panton's project. And still is i think.

[namnok]

8a i heard

[Jim]

Its Pantons project alright, I soloed it up to the last move onsight but thought I better downclimb it so not to steal it cos I'm nice like that 

[Doylo]

Its 8c and the last move is a wild dyno off a slopey mono. Come on Panton pull yer injured finger out, i'll hold yer ropes! You can only keep the jackals at bay for so long!

[Doylo]

Its Pantons project alright, I soloed it up to the last move onsight but thought I better downclimb it so not to steal it cos I'm nice like that 

Yeh so did Caff, Vickers < jordan

[chummer]

I've already done a winter ascent of it, it was piss with axes and crampons in all those shot holes and ethically it was a good ascent as the crag was totally white. 
 

[Jaspersharpe]

I've already done a winter ascent of it, it was piss with axes and crampons in all those shot holes and ethically it was a good ascent as the crag is totally shite. 

 

[Pantontino]

18 months ago I got close to doing it (fell off with my hands a few feet below top break); then I got a bad finger injury which I've struggled to shake off ever since. It's better than it was, but still nowhere near 100%.

That said, I did boulder up to 7B+ this winter (albeit on slopers), so theoretically I should be okay to go back on it. Just been a bit distracted with winter climbing and visits to Porth Ysgo over the last 3 months. I'll go and have a look in the next week, see how it feels. If I don't reckon my finger is up to it I'll hand it over to Ding Dong as he helped me to bolt it - and trust me this was a right awkward bar steward, forcing us to come up with all sorts of rope tricks and shenanigans!

[Adam Lincoln]

What is the grade roughly, 8a?

[Pantontino]

What is the grade roughly, 8a?

About F8a - not too certain, I was pretty unfit so maybe less?

[Probes]

What the hells going on with the rope work there?  Like something out of a PYB leaflet except missing the big redcross. 

[Pantontino]

What the hells going on with the rope work there?  Like something out of a PYB leaflet except missing the big redcross. 

I had abbed in from the top and placed a belay and a couple of bolts, but despite the existance of some old rusty studs (put in by Phil Smith in the early 90s) it was really hard to pull into the rock (nothing to skyhook/no conventional gear placements) in the steep middle section of the route, so we reached up with a stick clip and hooked a wire over an old stud beneath the first roof then tensioned this off to a boulder and Ding Dong jumared up and nervously placed a bolt while I had him on an emergency back up on the rope above and to the right should the wire pop. He would have taken a big sideways swing (the pic above compresses the 3d nature of this part of the crag), but hopefully wouldn't have decked.

All very gripping (for Ding Dong! ).

I then went up and had a desperate time drilling the main bolts in the roof. This all took several sessions to sort out, and even then it was filthy and needed a massive cleaning effort to get it in a climbable state.

As luck would have it, it turned out to be a cracking route with amazing moves - although I did begin to wonder at one point in the middle of all this epic grafting.

I'd been looking at this line for years, but always wondered if the main roof would be possible at a grade I could handle. In the end I reasoned that it looked no less featured than the Slim roof down below, so it must be on.

[Pantontino]

Actually looking at that pic again, it doesn't show the initial assault up to the first stud. This must have been after I'd got another of the bolts in? 

It was all very convoluted and time consuming - I remember leaving the crag at 10 o'clock one night!

[Doylo]

I ve been on it and can confirm the quality.Don t give up yet si!

[Probes]

Lol, Fantastic explanation, sounds like you had more fun bolting it than trying it.

[nodder]

Go Si your our man if you cant do it no one can...

I ve been on it and can confirm the quality.Don t give up yet si!

Yeah but you like pil box 

[Houdini]

Pils' box is his own private kingdom and he'll thank you to keep Doyle out of it.

[Paul B]

I ve been on it and can confirm the quality.Don t give up yet si!

sorry to ask this, but does a FA not lose that certain something if every man and their dog has been on it a slinked off to avoid stealing it?

[Pantontino]

I ve been on it and can confirm the quality.Don t give up yet si!

sorry to ask this, but does a FA not lose that certain something if every man and their dog has been on it a slinked off to avoid stealing it?

I'm not sure which alternative universe you've been living in but it's pretty common to let your belayers have a play on your project - stops them getting bored, plus they might come up with a better sequence.

As for other folk having a look, with such an easy access, public line I'd be foolish to think it wouldn't attract any attention. I take it as a compliment for the quality of the route.

[Jaspersharpe]

It's not as if Si's had to get the lip balm out. 

[Jim]

incase it wasn't obvious my post was a joke

[Jaspersharpe]

  FFS Jim you could have made it more clear.

[Pantontino]

It's not as if Si's had to get the lip balm out. 

Or a saucepan...

...at least not yet, but you have given me an idea.