[nik at work]

Anybody know anything about this problem? The low start to Huffy's Roof apparently, 8A+. Is Huffy's Roof the low start to the 7A on the bad landing boulder? So is this an extra low start?
Any knowledge o wise ones?

[Andy B]

Yes, it's on the bad landing boulder. Huffy's starts from sitting, with your right hand on a good shothole and your left on the ramp above. This starts with both hands on a good undercut just under the shot hole.

[nik at work]

Splendid, thank you.

[r-man]

Perhaps this could be moved to new problems, given that it was only done a couple of weeks ago?

[nik at work]

Okey-dokey a couple more questions.
Where does Huffy's Roof start, the right hand is obvious but how high up is your left allowed to go? Looking at the vid of Polish(?) on the Musee Imaginaire sitter he has his left quite near the lip, whereas I was starting with my left near my right and slapping to the hold he starts from. Is he just tall?
Super Size Me, does this start from the obvious undercut/sidepull hold just below the right hand starting hold of Huffy's? Or on the sidepull pinchy thing really low down? I found the moves from the undercut to the start of Huffy's pretty steady so wasn't sure if I was in the right starting place as I was expecting desperate-ness.
Also is Musee Imaginaire Sitter now 8A? And is the low start of Musee Imaginaire still up for grabs?
Was struggling with getting my right hand out from the starting hold of Huffy's once I'd caught the lip but watching the clip has yielded a cheeky bit of toe-hook shilly-shallying so I shall have to venture South again soon.

[r-man]

Huffy's Roof - pull on to pocket and ramp. Most people start with left hand some way up the ramp - still tricky to pull up from sitting, then make the move. Some people do one big move, others shuffle hands along, using toe-hook. Dave's method in the vid isn't normal (yes he's very tall) - most people match the lip, then go with right hand for jug. Toe-hooking is the way.

Super Size Me - Starts matched on obvious incut undercut just before the pocket on Huffy's. The moves into Huffy's aren't desperate, but they clearly add up - Kook found Huffy's pretty easy on its own, but doing the link took him lots of sessions.

Le Musee Imaginaire Extension hasn't had many repeats, but 8A sounds like sense if it's 7C+ into 7B+. Yes, the low start is still up for grabs.

[nik at work]

Cheers R-man.

[Richie Crouch]

Any photos of said problems. I like the sound of toe hooking, steepness and slapping 

[cofe]

So Super Size Me finishes straight up, not up Robin's prob?

[nik at work]

Cofe, yes it finishes up the 7A stand-up problem

Richie video here:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8932.msg141876.html#msg141876
The sit start is Musee Imaginaire sitter.
Huffy's Roof has the same start then goes directly up from the good lip hold rather than traversing left. It is a bunched rockover so a taller gent may struggle
Super Size Me starts from a good hold just lower than the start holds of Huffy's and finishes as for Huffy's.

[dave]

I'm sure on kook's scorecard it says it finishes up musee.

[dave]

ok i made that up, it doesn't.

[kook]

right this is my beta. the moves by themselves felt fine, and even getting into the set up to huffys was ok so i thought it'd go pretty quick cos huffys is alright but getting from the start to the lip was loads harder for me and very dropable but maybe if you guys try it you'll find it ok in which case its not that hard i'm just crap. its the first problem i've ever graded and i thought low end 8a+ and if you did it in to musee it'd just be higher end 8a+ but let me know what you think. its hard to put a grade on something when you've tried it a lot

1. both hands on undercuts, left foot on low ledge right leg scum under roof, pull up twist right and slap into dink with left hand.
2. match feet move  left foot up to higher edge and slap left hand a few feet up ramp
3. toe hook/scum behind right hand and drop right hand into dink.
4. slap left hand slightly higher up ramp.
5. toe hook where hands started and drop right up ramp into a palmy pinchy guppy.
6. slap to lip and finish straight up in style or like me beach yourself over the top and roll around in the dirt with a smile on your face

get it done

[nik at work]

Good effort, nice problem. Just to be clear, I'm not questioning the grade, I was just surprised to be able to do the first moves without too much problem. I can well imagine that linking it all packs a punch.

I'll be back...

[kook]

i was the same when i first tried it, but I'm also quite good at cocking things up on the link. to me it felt harder to link than musee, revolver and sweet thing (although I still haven't held the top of this) and they're the only short problems i can compare it too. i don't want to be an overgrader but equally i didn't want to give it less than what i thought because purposely undergrading's just not cool either. i just want people to do it and settle on a grade.  if i'm not on the money i don't mind, like i said, its the first problem I've had to grade.

[r-man]

Huffy's Roof has the same start then goes directly up from the good lip hold rather than traversing left. It is a bunched rockover so a taller gent may struggle

No, there is another method - right toe on small foothold out right, then lock off left arm on jug to reach good holds with right hand.

[nik at work]

Completely agree with you about grading Kook, you can only say what you honestly think, anything else is stupid.

R-man thank you for destroying another tallies pathetic excuse

[dave]

the old direct up from the lip problem is steady for any height.

[r-man]

Oh yes, and there's a better quality video of Le Musee here

[Adam Lincoln]

Ed Hamer has just repeated this.

[Ru]

5. toe hook where hands started and drop right up ramp into a palmy pinchy guppy.
6. slap to lip and finish straight up in style or like me beach yourself over the top and roll around in the dirt with a smile on your face

I've struggled with the move to the lip, but can get there ok. By "drop right up ramp into a palmy pinchy guppy" do you have your right hand in an undercut position (ie elbow pointing down) or are you rotating your wrist so that your elbow points up?

[kook]

i kinda lay back off it with the thumb pointing down if that makes sense. quick work by  Ed. what a beast. he said he thought it was harder than anything he'd done in the cave which is praise indeed in my book.

[a dense loner]

that said there aren't many hard moves in the cave, as in opposed to linking moves. eds a stamina beast, as well as a general beast, so not surprising he found it harder. looks good

[TN080]

I have heard about new knee bar beta for this... Does anyone know more? Is it for the pulling on/first move or to help bring the right hand into the pocket? Cheers

[T_B]

Can anyone confirm whether the starting holds are right at the back i.m. undercut with right and more of a 'cupping' undercut with left, or whether you start on the incut undercut (the one that you toe hook into on Huffy's)? Presumably in this day and age of knee pads you can pull on with a knee bar?

[JackAus]

@16.25

[T_B]

Good skills Jack. Though is that really the starting position?!

[r-man]

That vid is bad beta. Chris isn't starting low enough. Back around!

Can anyone confirm whether the starting holds are right at the back i.m. undercut with right and more of a 'cupping' undercut with left, or whether you start on the incut undercut (the one that you toe hook into on Huffy's)? Presumably in this day and age of knee pads you can pull on with a knee bar?

Start matched on obvious incut undercut, as it says earlier in the thread.

[dave]

I thought it started way lower than that. Neither hand should be in the shothole.

[T_B]

OK, I guess it's both on the obvious incut one (that you toe hook) that CWP has with his right hand, rather than the flatter undercuts slightly lower. That's why I was confused, as you could definitely start on the undercuts right at the back with a knee bar in. But re-reading Kook's description it does now make sense...

[abarro81]

you could definitely start on the undercuts right at the back with a knee bar in.

That was how I was starting when I tired a few years ago. Felt like the obvious place to start. [I didn't do it from this start]

[r-man]

Yeah, both hands on the incut undercut. The incut seemed like a nice start and easy to identify - I don't think Kook found the lower start appealing, though there was some debate about this when Kook and Dawid were working it prior to the FA. Not sure it would add much? Alex?

[abarro81]

Well I didn't do either of the low starts; I imagine it would make it marginally harder but wouldn't be a different grade. Although Super-size gets 8A now I think so the lower start might bump it to 8A+? Don't know, keen to get back to it though