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Genocide at Cratcliffe (Read 8406 times)

Mr Mystery

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Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 11, 2010, 10:57:33 am
Hey guys, first post on here so i hope i wont get flamed like i would expect on another popular UK CLIMBING site for asking a question.

I'm really psyched to try and flash Genocide at Cratcliffe but I've read in the guide that its suited for tall people, what with me being on 5'10 with a relatively short ape index is there anyone on here who could shed some light on a short persons sequence? Yes I know I could get on it and try to work it out without beta but my cahona's arent what they used to be so I'm trying to look for a beta flash instead!

so in quick form 1; any short person beta and 2; whats the gear like??

thanks in advance.

Mr Mystery

slackline

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#1 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 11, 2010, 11:10:59 am
Good pics of gear and sequence (albeit what appears to be a fairly tall person)

Two of the registered ascents post here, so they may be along with useful info in due course.

Norton Sharley

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#2 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 11, 2010, 11:21:40 am
Since when has 5'10" been short?  :shrug:

Mr Mystery

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#3 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 11, 2010, 11:27:03 am
thanks slack line!

Norton - 5'10 feels short when your surrounded by 6 footers with +2 apes!!! obviously its not like i'd be entitled to benefits or ought!

dave

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#4 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 11, 2010, 11:30:26 am
How tall is Jerry?

grimer

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#5 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 11, 2010, 11:45:58 am
I'm tall which made it easier, but, go up the flake as in the picture on UKC then stretch up left for the little crimp as he does. I did the next bit differently and got my right onto a poor-ish sidepull directly above the crack, built my feet up and used the RH layaway to stretch for the break with my left.

It's about sever to get the grea in and feel the holds. I had a couple of little falls then committed and it was fine.

The thing about it is it's a very low-stress route. You see exactly what you have to do then do it. Friend 3 for after the crux.

Jaspersharpe

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#6 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 11, 2010, 11:56:34 am

It's about sever to get the grea in

You've come over all "O'Connor" grimer.

grimer

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#7 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 11, 2010, 04:25:59 pm
Cue moody black and white image of me looking at my right biceps flexing on the marginal sidepull, Cantona-like musings on the nature of my imminent death...

Mr Mystery

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#8 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 11, 2010, 04:29:47 pm
Cheers for the advice Grimer!....I will keep my little fingers crossed for the weather this weekend!

Andy B

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#9 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 11, 2010, 09:56:03 pm
5'10 with a relatively short ape index ... my cahona's arent what they used to be ... 5'10 feels short when your surrounded by 6 footers with +2 apes

Are you me?

lagerstarfish

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#10 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 11, 2010, 10:11:08 pm
It's about sever to get the grea in and feel the holds.

You're fckued if you ever get a job that requires writing skills  ::)
« Last Edit: March 11, 2010, 10:25:40 pm by lagerstarfish »

Danger

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#11 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 11, 2010, 10:23:43 pm
Cheers for the advice Grimer!....I will keep my little fingers crossed for the weather this weekend!

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3575

Idol eyes

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#12 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 11, 2010, 10:40:47 pm
I Flashed it with 3 falls?

Sloper

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#13 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 12, 2010, 08:31:44 am

It's about sever to get the grea in

You've come over all "O'Connor" grimer.

And how did the old sea dog like it?

grimer

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#14 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 12, 2010, 09:58:00 am
I Flashed it with 3 falls?

Are you me?

willackers

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#15 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 12, 2010, 10:03:48 am
Hello.
My mate Dan (North Country Boy) did it with the same beta as me in those photos and he's about 5'10, it's a big move off poor holds but it's really safe, the gear is bomber......

dave

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#16 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 12, 2010, 11:16:29 am
I Flashed it with 3 falls?

So you didn't flash it then...

grimer

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#17 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 12, 2010, 11:58:12 am
Yes, three times, and one of them to the top.

Tom de Gay

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#18 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 12, 2010, 01:18:35 pm
Jump to the break from those crimps, as I recall. Quite hard to catch it in the right place and you might need a bit of a 'sport loop' so the rope doesn't come tight mid-flight! Watch the rope doesn't catch round your leg on the way down too. Good route.

T_B

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#19 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 12, 2010, 03:17:57 pm
I seem to remember that the crucial bit was knowing where to hit the break. But as it was 1927 that I tried it, I might just be getting confused with Block and Tackle at Higgar Tor. Ah, the ghosts, the ghosts...

mark s

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#20 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 14, 2010, 08:56:48 pm
Me and andi turnip keep talking about havin a crack at this but legend has it  grimer is 7ft 6" with a +5 ape index

Fiend

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#21 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 14, 2010, 09:21:49 pm
Yes but so are you and Andi :P

Idol eyes

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#22 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 15, 2010, 12:25:31 pm
Jump to the break from those crimps, as I recall. Quite hard to catch it in the right place and you might need a bit of a 'sport loop' so the rope doesn't come tight mid-flight! Watch the rope doesn't catch round your leg on the way down too. Good route.
Are you me?

Mr Mystery

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#23 Re: Genocide at Cratcliffe
March 15, 2010, 02:05:47 pm
Hey Guys, Thanks for all the really useful beta...had a crack on this at the weekend and got completely shut down by the heniously small crimps!!! safe as houses to fall off though!!....i'll leave it for a while until my crimping ability allows me to see a way past those holds!

Cheers

 

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