[JamesD]

DISCLAIMER: I am a novice climber, I don't know everything, however.....

I am curious as to how they justify their exceptionally high prices?
I went for Scarpa shoes myself, they use the same rubber (vibram shizzle), seem to be of fantastic build quality, and because essentially they fitted well.
I haven't tried Five Ten or Evolv yet, but they seem to be at a similar price point to Scarpa.
It just seems that an equivalent shoe from la-sportiva seems to be £20-30 more expensive than everyone else throughout the range, and I can't see anything that make them stand out as significantly superior, same rubber, same apparent build quality (although i've heard of quality control issues with katana's and solutions wearing out after a few months?!), and yet they are nearly 30% more expensive.
Fancy colour schemes aside, assuming both fitted you perfectly, what would you buy...a Scarpa booster, or Lasportiva Solution, and why would you make whichever choice you make.

[Paul B]

If they fit I'd go 5.10 every time rather than either of those brands; I am strongly of the belief that the rubber is far superior. Currently the whites are my favourite shoes, I'm just amazed at how versatile they are across different styles and rock type.

At the end of the day it justs boils down to fit and personal preference. I was amazed when a freind told me how much Red Chilli shoes go for, I couldn't see why on earth people would buy them in preference to 5.10's etc. For down-toed shoes the solutions are meant to be quite impressive, whether or not they're worth the money is another thing all together.

[Lund]

At the end of the day it justs boils down to fit and personal preference. I was amazed when a freind told me how much Red Chilli shoes go for, I couldn't see why on earth people would buy them in preference to 5.10's etc. For down-toed shoes the solutions are meant to be quite impressive, whether or not they're worth the money is another thing all together.

Had a pair of solutions.  Had them resoled, and they're still good.  Not as good as dragons though.  So given that dragons are cheaper, would defo choose them over the solutions.  The solutions baggy up around the toe box too (they start off OK, but then get shagged).  Whereas the dragons are ace.

Not sure about the novice end of the sportiva range - or in fact, the 5.10 range - am guessing it's less critical, but that you can't go far wrong with either.

For the record, I also have a pair of sportiva testarrossas (sp?).  Hate them, think they're shit.  But then I saw a bird on the DFBWGC thread crushing whilst wearing a pair so obviously they're not that shit...

Shoe selection always seems to be a bit of a religious warfare topic.  Bit like politics or religion.  Always ends in arguments.

[chillax]

Slightly off-topic, but can anyone say "Solution knock-off"

Back on topic, I fully agreee with Paul B. Its all about fit, and if they fit I would always go 5.10. Having said that, I haven't tried solutions yet so I remain prepared to be amazed. And sportiva aren't the only rock shoes that go for astronomical prices

[dave]

Until relatively recent sportivas used to be the same price as everything else, and as good as anything else except fiveten. Since they seem to be the most expensive also-rans at the moment i'd find it hard to justify the extra dollar. Just get a pair of D3xs.

[205Chris]

Even with their inflated prices it would take a lot for me to swap my Katanas for anything else.

I used to be a big 5.10 fan and was convinced I'd never change, however after quality issues with 2-3 pairs (rubbish velcro that doesn't stay closed when you're on routes) I changed. Having said that I do still own a pair of dragons.

However there is hope with my top tip for cheap priced katanas:

1. Go to your nearest Go Outdoors that sell Katanas
2. Find them cheaper online Here
3. Invoke the Go Outdoors Price guarantee

Voila.....Katanas for £80

[JamesD]

If they fit I'd go 5.10 every time rather than either of those brands; I am strongly of the belief that the rubber is far superior. Currently the whites are my favourite shoes, I'm just amazed at how versatile they are across different styles and rock type.

At the end of the day it justs boils down to fit and personal preference. I was amazed when a freind told me how much Red Chilli shoes go for, I couldn't see why on earth people would buy them in preference to 5.10's etc. For down-toed shoes the solutions are meant to be quite impressive, whether or not they're worth the money is another thing all together.

Keep hearing this love for Five Ten's rubber a lot from various people, I wanted an intermediate shoe, and all the place had in stock at the time where I went, were some uber awesome super-downturned Five Ten's I think they were projects or something, the guy said they were a really good shoe, but as a first pair of shoes that I should go for something a bit more comfortable at first and then grab a pair of down-turned/more advanced shoes if/when I feel the need, or I am doing the kind of stuff that requires it.
Will check out some Five Ten's when my Scarpa's give up the ghost, or when I fancy some hardcore downturned craziness, those Jet 7's look like the stealth bombers of climbing shoes!

[JamesD]

Or maybe I will plump for a pair of those Vapour V's when they come out, they look like a good cross between the booster and my current shoes, (Use) The Force   

[Paul B]

stay away from anything on the Jet 7 build. One strap is not enough to keep a boot with little rigidity on your foot. Some people love them, I did not, nor did I like the projects. Haven't had chance to try the 5.10e team.
I'll sing my song again "the whites are amazing and ridiculously versatile". They even spanked my dragons on some steeper stuff while abroad and they work on grit too!

[iain]

Fit is everything. I spent years wearing 5.10 and it was a revelation the first time I tried a pair of sportiva testarossa's. They actually fit  my feet properly and I now wear them in preference to everything else. Her outdoors doesn't like 5.10 either.

Like some of the scarpa's too, the Mago's and the Stix, (although not the Booster, even though they're meant to be the same last as the stix)

To be fair I've never tried on a pair of dragons or jet7's, but have used all the anasazi's at various times.

[JamesD]

stay away from anything on the Jet 7 build. One strap is not enough to keep a boot with little rigidity on your foot. Some people love them, I did not, nor did I like the projects. Haven't had chance to try the 5.10e team.
I'll sing my song again "the whites are amazing and ridiculously versatile". They even spanked my dragons on some steeper stuff while abroad and they work on grit too!

You talking about these yeah?

http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/51-anasazi-lace-up-blanco

Those new Scarpa's do look mighty nice though:

http://www.scarpa.co.uk/Products/Product.asp?ProductId=135

[Paul B]

those are they.

[Dave Westlake]

If they fit I'd go 5.10 every time rather than either of those brands; I am strongly of the belief that the rubber is far superior. Currently the whites are my favourite shoes, I'm just amazed at how versatile they are across different styles and rock type.

Do they still sponsor you Paul? 

I'd echo the comments about fit.  Softer rubber like stealth (5.10, evolv, mad rock) is good and very sticky but for edging Vibram (sportiva, scarpa etc) is hard to beat.  I find it pretty sticky on all rock types and when on small holds it doesn't deform.  This is particularly important when it is warm. 

I'd recommend 5.10, sportiva, scarpa and evolv from personal experience - whichever fits best. 

I would have to agree with Paul B re: red chili (why not just buy a pair of rock shoes?) but I've heard good things about the new ones so who knows

[Paul B]

Do they still sponsor you Paul? 

Negative, but I still buy them

[shark]

There's no boot quite like the Solution to complement a Rolex and Gold Chain.

I can't believe Ive handed out over a 100 notes for a pair of shoes but I've wanted a pair of toe-down boots for steep limestone bouldering (specifically Powerband) but whenever I've tried on the Jet7 and Dragons I instantly get excruciating cramp in my arches whereas the Solutions fit perfectfully and unpainfully. Not cragtested them yet though. Pound for pound I'm expecting great things.

[Paul B]

I think they prefer to deliver their pain via your achilles, non?

[Lund]

I think they prefer to deliver their pain via your achilles, non?

I get a burning sensation in my back pocket.

[Dr T]

I have both murias and scarpa instincts
both are good think the sportiva rubber might be a bit better
not so sure their £40 odd quid a pair better though

[tomtom]

Hi James,
I've found that 5-10's Anasazi velcros are great for me - long lasting and great friction. But they are bloody painful to wear in and are quite expensive (getting on £80 in places). They're the boot for me, so I';ve even got an unused pair that I picked up 5 months ago when they were £65 in shop.. just waiting for my present pair to die.

As you're fairly new to bouldering and do most of your climbing indoors at the moment (forgive me if this is not true - just going on other posts..) then the type/fit/rubber is not going to make a huge amount of difference. I have a pair of mad rock somethings (they're orange) that were £40 online and I use these all the time at the wall to stop trashing my decent outdoor shoes. AND they're comfier and i can pad around in them for a couple of hours without having to take them off every 5 mins and wince! Also when youre newer to the sport and/or trying harder feet tend to scrabble around more - which leads to rapid rubber wear! So I'd advise going to a big shop with lots of choice and getting something mid-range that feels bearably comfy.

I'd also go for something with a soft (flexible) sole as whilst stiff soles can be more comfy and better for edging you loose alot of sensitivity.

Different brands fit differently too - Boreals have a reputation for being better for wide feet (I like them and had a pair of jester velcro's I loved). But some people dont rate the rubber (always been fine for me!)

5:10's have shite sizing control, so three different examples of size 8's (for example) will all fit differently. The chap in snow&rock in manchester was amazed when I had a 7, 7.5 and 8 out at once and they all looked the same length! So again if its 5:10's then try several of the same size - some will be a better fit than others.

5:10 also use some sort of vegan leather stuff which is OK (not too stretchy) but does not breathe very well (at all?) and so mings after a short while.

Velcro/laces? I prefere velcro as you can get your shoes on and off quickly - but some prefer laces as you can get them tighter in places and adjust the fit a bit better (probably).

Also, some of the mega expensive bling models may have thinner rubber (to help sensitivity) which is good but also means they wear out faster - esp if you're scrabbling your feet alot!

Hope that helps,
Tom

[wiain]

I am curious as to how they justify their exceptionally high prices?

TBH it is all about the pound euro exchange rate and margins. The UK importers of Sportiva refuse to cut there margin to fit in with the rest of the market. Scarpa and Boreal have both taken the decision to cut their profit margin on certain shoes to make them more competitive in the UK market.

[Kim]

Anyone had any problems with the rubber on Sportivas (specifically katanas) recently? I never minded splashing out the extra £££ over five tens because they fit me great and the rubber was good, but seen two pairs recently where the rubber's disappeared in a matter of weeks. This was with daily use on granite so high wear expected - mine are not-quite-through after two months but the others had full on holes in within a month and the rubber was rolling up rather than wearing smoothly. Not great at 85 notes a go.

And to the OP - if you go for them check the "vibram" stamped in the sole doesn't go near the toe edge, that's asking for trouble...

[GCW]

I used to be a big 5.10 fan and was convinced I'd never change, however after quality issues with 2-3 pairs (rubbish velcro that doesn't stay closed when you're on routes) I changed. Having said that I do still own a pair of dragons.

I've used 5.10 for years, but my last 3 pairs have been a bit disappointing build wise.  I had a pair of Verdes that the whole of the top rubber peeled off the first time I tried a toe hook.  My other pairs have quickly developed holes in the uppers, or the rubber peels off.  The pull on loops have also been a bit flimsy.

I've got another pair I haven't worn yet but if they go the same way I may have to try other shoes, which is a shame as I like the rubber and the front end of the Verdes (heels are still shite though).  No idea what I'd get instead though 

Sorry, wandering off the point a bit.

[KH]

I bought the solutions mid last year and was amazed by how good they are.  I was wearing 5.10's at the time and was pretty happy with them but decided to buy the solutions for steeper ground.  I was amazed by how sticky the rubber was straight out of the box (on limestone) and the power I was able to get through the toe.  Also, the heel on them is awesome.  I was doing a problem in them last year where I had to change from a heel hook to a toe hook and the heel was so good it wouldn't budge.  I had to revert to the 5.10's for a poorer heel to do the problem!  As has been said, they're also incredibly comfortable for such an aggressive shoe.

[Iesu]

I bought the solutions mid last year and was amazed by how good they are.  I was wearing 5.10's at the time and was pretty happy with them but decided to buy the solutions for steeper ground.  I was amazed by how sticky the rubber was straight out of the box (on limestone) and the power I was able to get through the toe.  Also, the heel on them is awesome.  I was doing a problem in them last year where I had to change from a heel hook to a toe hook and the heel was so good it wouldn't budge.  I had to revert to the 5.10's for a poorer heel to do the problem!  As has been said, they're also incredibly comfortable for such an aggressive shoe.

Solutions fit my broad feet well, have an amazing heel and the rubber's not too bad....

But

the strap on one shoe snapped off a long while before the rubber died, despite the fact that the X-Grip indented logo was planted right under the big toe on BOTH shoes (couple this with a Bishop purchase location and the buttermilk monzonite made fairly short work of them!)

in hindsight i should have taken them back when i realised the indent logo on the soles.

not worth the money in my opinion (although the strap-snap could be down to my sweaty feet causing the eyelet to rust and saw through the strap, I have seen this same thing happen with others).

[Dr T]

the strap on one shoe snapped off a long while before the rubber died,

not worth the money in my opinion

(although the strap-snap could be down to my sweaty feet causing the eyelet to rust and saw through the strap, I have seen this same thing happen with others).

same for mine when I had them

came to the same conclusion

yep - that happened with mine too....

if I were to get another pair of sportivas they'd be muiras not solutions...

[JamesD]

the strap on one shoe snapped off a long while before the rubber died,

not worth the money in my opinion

(although the strap-snap could be down to my sweaty feet causing the eyelet to rust and saw through the strap, I have seen this same thing happen with others).

same for mine when I had them

came to the same conclusion

yep - that happened with mine too....

if I were to get another pair of sportivas they'd be muiras not solutions...

But would you buy them?

Assuming they fitted, or would you go with another brand.
I am finding this thread really interesting, with the anecdotal feedback, and various peoples experiences of these shoes.
Personally I am really impressed with the build quality of my Scarpas, I almost bought some slightly cheaper Boreals as well since the fit was similar, but these felt a lot more comfortable and the guy in the shop said the rubber was far superior as it was the same rubber as used by higher end La Sportiva shoes. Considering I am now up to around 4-5 months of heavy indoor usage, and I am a pretty damn big guy as far as boulderers/climbers go
(98-100kg generally speaking), I can see no visible signs of wear, the edges have gone a little bit, but no doubt that was from my first month or so of shockingly poor footwork and dragging my shoes down the wall when downclimbing  I know now just how much damage that does and learnt my lesson, so my next shoes will get treated a lot better!

[205Chris]

Anyone had any problems with the rubber on Sportivas (specifically katanas) recently? I never minded splashing out the extra £££ over five tens because they fit me great and the rubber was good, but seen two pairs recently where the rubber's disappeared in a matter of weeks.

I've had a few pairs of Katanas now and to be honest if I get 6 months use out of them I'm normally happy. I agree that the rubber does seem to wear down faster when compared to 5.10.

I've had a pair resoled with 5.10 rubber before and they were awesome. At about £30 to resole them it makes the starting price a bit more bearable. Shame that feet first seem to have stopped using 5.10 rubber for resoles.

[bobber]

I've had katanas with the new rubber (without the imprints) and ive previously had them with the old rubber. this time they were stickyer but wore out really quickly so im going to try a resole with 5.10 rubber

also the red chilli matadors work really well for me but rub and bruise a tendon by the ankle on one foot. there is a visible difference between the shoes where it rubs (where the tongue is stitched in) so im going to try a mod and see if it helps

[shark]

the strap on one shoe snapped off a long while before the rubber died,

I gather this is a regular occurence and worse still Sportiva do not accept it as a return.

[sjw]

I've sent three pairs of katanas back on the trot because the rubber has delaminated at the toe after a few months and I'll be switching to five ten after this pair go through.

My girlfriend's katanas rubber peeled away at the toe in under two months of barely any use. She sent them back and rather than refund them as she requested, they sent them back with some 'shoe goo' on them and told her to deal with it. Fairly grim sportiva experience allround; it's just a shame that they are only shoe she's found that fit her.

[mrjonathanr]

also the red chilli matadors work really well for me but rub and bruise a tendon (where the tongue is stitched in) so im going to try a mod and see if it helps

Wouldn't it be better to try a rocker?