[Dolly]

I know your response is addressed to Norton, but seriously mate I don't think I've ever been anything other than encouraging when we've actually been out climbing together have I ?
In fact IIRC I'm the same when we're training on the board together - suggesting ways/alternatives to try a particular problem.

May I respectfully suggest that there's a difference between the times we actually climb together and online comments made tongue in cheek ?

I honestly think that you would get more bouldering power by training on the board rather than other methods - but that's OK we can have a difference of opinion can't we ?

FWIW I'm perfectly well motivated and not in a complacent place.

With love and kisses...

PS you're welcome to train tonight if you fancy it

[Norton Sharley]

STG:  Lose 5 pounds.  Will probably achieve this watching football tonight.
MTG:  Some 7's in Font.  Chuff up an 8 again.
LTG:   Do the Oak before the Shark.

Last week:
Monday - trained at Dolly's.  Tired from previous weekend so did lots of long easy stamina problems (ie. more than 4 moves) to increase power endurance.  Created a new four level grading structure for the board, Shark, too hard for Shark, quite hard, reet hard.
Tuesday - Bunked off work in the afternoon and went out to Stanage.  Bumped into some old mates which was nice.  Oh, did some bouldering too. 
Wednesday - Trained, I think.
Thursday - work
Friday - 
Saturday - DIY, house related, not the Stanage route.
Sunday - magic day out at Stanage doing first routes of the year, some highball solos and some bouldering.  Confirmed that HVS 5b can still be anywhere between VS and E3 (Twin Buttress left hand buttress thingy).  Froze solid listening to Big Ron.

Perhaps if you listened to us complacent old sneering farts sometime you would maybe get a bit stronger and achieve your goal of the Oak?  You might even have fun in the process.   

[SA Chris]

Had you shit yourself then Chris?  If not why walk like you had?

Have you ever done much snowshoeing? If you walk normally you trip over, esp when it's deep and slushy.

[GCW]

Nik, thanks for your post.  I felt I needed to say something but the 4 double G+Ts held me back and I couldn't be arsed and now you've saved me the bother.

Sometimes on here, just occasionally, I despair.  I fucking despair.

[iain]

It's all relative. I think the 45s are quite conditions-dependant and different boards vary. On the beastmaker at the climbing academy I can hang the 35s eaasily for 6 secs, but on my home one I can't get near that without nesting and latching the thumb a little.

Completely agree, but I recently had the chance to try the beastmaker at the climbing academy too and although everything did feel far more friendly I was still nowhere near hanging the 45's.

As an aside, the climbing academy's beastmaker seems to be suffering a bit from the number of people that must be using it there, ridges are starting to form on some of the holds where the wood is wearing unevenly.

[account_inactive]

Wow

Firstly I apologise for being so down on this thread at the onset. My original reason for this was after following the other channels version, which in my opinion only contains people willy waving with the occasional 'well done' from the management. Peoples honest break down of there training week is a refreshing insight into real life climbing training.  Very useful when coaching and constructing plans for people who don't want to train like Patxi (Adam) but still want to improve.

Jasper et al raise good points and the fact that many of us have lives/mortgages/bairns/work etc and that our approach to training is no longer as simple as when we were at a Redtips stage in our climbing.  It's interesting to see how much people do and don't train and what they get out of their climbing with their limited resources.

Climbing for me in very important and I can't ever see myself not having it in my life. However other commitments get in the way of my goals and I'm unable to train the way I know I should (hence why I coach other people). Even without these commitments I still don't feel that I could devote my whole being to climbing as I just don't have it in me.  I'm sure this is the same for many people on the forum.

Threenine, you comments and general air is annoying and rather destructive to other people and it's no wonder why people are getting pissed with you. People are less likely to sift through your training and offer constructive criticism while you are peering down from your ivory tower (myself included).

............and BTW Simon climbing on a board is exactly what you need to do to improve your chances at Malham.  Increases in your power will have a direct effect on your PE and stamina and should be quicker to gain as you are starting from a lower base level rather than trying to improve an already strong area in your climbing.


Peace and fucking

[lagerstarfish]

just occasionally, I despair

what sort of training are you doing for this?

[GCW]

just occasionally, I despair

what sort of training are you doing for this?

4 double G+Ts

[Jaspersharpe]

People say gin can make you depressed but if you take enough ecstasy tablets before you start drinking it then it's fine. Just a tip.

[shark]

Top post Dylan,

Lifestyle commitments are sometimes a genuine constraint but can also sometimes be an excuse. With ingenuity, a bit of structure and motivation there is usually a way round to at least maintain a level.

Re board training - thanks for the tip - I agree - so much so that I have built my own and can plug away at it on my own - more so when my Foundry membership runs out at the end of the month.

[lagerstarfish]

just occasionally, I despair

what sort of training are you doing for this?

4 double G+Ts

Ah! I wasn't sure which came first; de gin or dis pear.
I assume its doubles for PE and singles for strength?

RE: Jasper's comments on Es and gin
I'm fuckin dis custard

[SA Chris]

I'm in dis dress.

It's quite comfortable.

Good words Dyl.

Once parents go home and at least do a week before clocks change, I will start training in earnest.

And that's the setup....

[lagerstarfish]

good to see you in full command of Dad Humour there Chris 

[SA Chris]

I try.

[Monolith]

I'm sorry that this won't make for much reading until my easter vacation. I've wondered whether to opt out of this as it reminds me just how little time I'm able to give to training/climbing at the moment. It's really rather sad but after 13 hour days working I don't have it in me to pull on edges and whatnot. Alas, I had a brilliant review today and it's good to know that my working processes have come so far. This should have a knock-on effect of enabling me to work more efficiently and thus get to train more efficiently.

Sunday - Got to bed at 11pm having got up last at 10am Saturday. Stupid.
Monday - Uni
Tuesday - Uni
Wednesday - Uni
Thursday - Uni
Friday - Dj'd until 08.30am Saturday. Wanted to leave much earlier than this but got made to stay.
Saturday - Not enough sleep, went for some weissbiers then rested.
Sunday - Uni

Going out 'crushing' tomorrow so something to report next week.

[webbo]

STG
climb 7a+ outside again
LTG
not to damage myself too much in doing the above.
Mon day off work.burbidge north.eventually got up fallen block lip v6,took awhile to fit mybody to the sit start.might need to include some stretching in this training lark.
Tue nowt drank beer and watched the footie
Wed back went into spasm while washing my feet in the shower.
Thu off work as its taking me 10 mins to get straight after sitting down.core exs and beastmaker 6 secs max hangs.walked for 11/2 hours back felt better.drank wine
Fri back feels shit.beastmaker encores and repeaters.drank wine
Sat back feels a bit better.walked for an hour.went for lunch with the missus,had a ploughmans which seemed to have the same amount of cheese in it that  switzerland annually exports .beastmaker 6 secs max hangs struggling on one handed stuff. walked for a hour.drank some wine.
Sun walked for 11/2 hours back felt good.thought about not drinking wine so drank beer,then some wine
Conclusion
my backs fucked.

[Charles]

Lifestyle commitments are sometimes a genuine constraint but can also sometimes be an excuse. With ingenuity, a bit of structure and motivation there is usually a way round to at least maintain a level.

I agree with Simon.

Taking note of the "How long a session do folks really have when training" thread, there is always the 10 minute fingerboard session outlined by Metolius. It provides a surprisingly intense workout and, combined with a proper warm up, will only take 30 minutes, tops. I fall back on this when I'm pressed for time or have lots of other commitments - used to do it on a lunchtime at work.

And it's probably just as effective performed on a Beastmaker!

[Omar15]

Mark, you fell off at the last move on the cider soak? That's really really close - well done matey. You'll get it soon.

[Falling Down]

In Kazakhstan on the phone so very brief.

M - Run then train to London and Work
T - Work then train home
W - Work the neighbours board in evening.  Was weak in finger but strong in arm. Ripped a massive flapper.
T - Works for 30 mins then curry and beer with GME
F - Physio
S - Run
S - Up at 4am and flew here.

[mark s]

I was a week ahead of my self last week.weekend report.
Sat-bonus point day with g-f :-)
Sun-crat/r.h.s ,flashed a 7a plus plenty of other stuff upto 7a+ including "dry wit" which was good.had do a trouser swop with andi tho as I had jeans on and couldn't lift my leg.a lesson learnt there.

[Falling Down]

I lied, T at the works was the week before. 

[Jeff25]

Goals for the year: Font 7b, Fr 8a+, have a baby (support wife)

last week completed one of year goals! 

Monday: Sets of power pulls on the bar (45 mins)
Tuesday: Session at the west way - bouldering v5/6s
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Session at the west way
Friday: helped deliver our baby - way more fun than i thought it might be
Saturday: 'rest' (in a purely climbing context) - began to watch the demise of my bouldering grade as tucked into NHS lasagne and realised paternity leave might not meen daily sessions at the wall.
Sunday: nappy change of jet black sticky crap - got it everywhere.

following a recent high of v8 at the wall im determined not to lose it all so will keep posting on here as a form of shame

[Stubbs]

Got my reminder/ kick up the ass

Aims:
Be the best climber in Suffolk
Regularly burn off Cockerneys at the Westway
Zoo York
7A in Font
Maintain current (un)healthy paranoia levels

M: Buy pull up bar, do pull ups, approx 80 in total
T: Hard physical work day. Design a way of fixing beastmaker to pullup bar, do so, Beastmaker sesh, not too bad considering I haven't been on it for a while, highlight is full set of repeaters middle 2 small pockets. Also do some core stuff.
W: Beastmaker sesh, slopers and three fingers dragging mainly
T: Rest/pack
F: Drive to france
S: Drive to Font, get spanked at Isatis and Cusiniere
S: Get spanked at Roche aux Sabots and Bas Cuvier

[Jaspersharpe]

Zoo York
7A in Font

Shome dishparity shurely? 

[Stubbs]

Shome dishparity shurely? 

I've done ZY in two overlapping parts, but there's 7A's in font with moves I can't do, that's where the disparity lies!