[shark]

Even worse than SixNine I have taken two days off this week ...IN A ROW. The last time I did that was Xmas day and Boxing day. At least I halted last week's alarming weight gain.

Goals: Austrian Oak. 10,000 8anu points
Weight: 11.4-5  (last week11.4-7)

M. Eve. 90mins on Wave.
T. Managed to wake up in time for 7.30am Yoga class this week. Lunch: Fingery Endurance on systems board
W. Assisted one arm deadhangs and pull ups and offset pull-ups on board and ladder. In contrast to last week Started well, ended poorly.
T. Lunch: Fingery Endurance on systems board.   
F. 
S. 
S. Malham. Beautiful day. Some OK links on the Oak but no PB's.

Going to wind down training to day-on, day-off and less intense sessions so I am fresh for the Oak over the next 4 weeks after which we have a communal family holiday at Font. After that probably leave it alone till the Autumn if not really close.

[Andy F]

Goals are changing a bit. Now: Straightened, Zoolook, COTC, GA.

Mon - rest
Tues - Novovirus, spoke to the big white phone all night
Wed/Thurs/Fri - recovering from Tuesday, no food to speak of for 3 days as stomach unable to cope
Sat - some food
Sun - Malham. Felt light (I'd lost 1.5 - 2 kg after the lack of food) but lacking stamina. Has 3 good goes on Straightened, going from the good holds after the start to the crux on Baboo, then to the top each time. very pleasing given how little time I've had on the string in the last 4 months. I'll try to keep the weight off as well!

[Richie Crouch]

Sounds like a grim rapid weight loss idea Andy. Get some fat on ye' yoof 

[Jaspersharpe]

Three Nine I see you had two rest days last week. WTF?! Stop slacking, you don't see Patxi taking two WHOLE DAYS off in a week. What is this thread coming to FFS etc.

Well done.

Thanks for the nonsense karma. + and - are accepted graciously but only if they make sense and in this case........

It's not about decorum you halfwit it's about understanding the point of this thread. You have missed it completely despite it being politely and eloquently pointed out in very simple terms. A healthy attitude to training does not necessarily mean doing 35 hours a week on a board. It's all fucking relative.

Have you quit your job / course / friends / rest of your life in order to climb full time and devoted yourself to it completely? If not then I reckon you should stop trying to preach to people who've done all that in the past but now have a life and yet still can't surpress a desire to try to climb harder.

What gives you the right to slag others off with your holier than thou attitude? You're not training like Patxi you're just bumbling around like the rest of us so get off the high horse unless you're going to put your money where your mouth is.

And what the fuck is "well done" supposed to mean in that context? 

[Three Nine]

I'm not a half-wit. I think you understood my original point (others seemed to). In your last post you were just being a cock. I was just trying to be encouraging in my own way and it seemed to make people reflect on stuff, even if they didn't agree. You seem to want to make it personal and acting like this on an internet forum where you feel safe and comfortable throwing stones around is a bit lame. I don't think you would say that to my face. You are welcome to the last word, but this is a thread on training - why not start a new thread to bitch about me? 

[nik at work]

WTF?

[Three Nine]

Sorry, but i had to rush my post before my daily 8.30am 3 hour mono campussing session.

[slackline]

I'm not a half-wit. I think you understood my original point (others seemed to). In your last post you were just being a cock. I was just trying to be encouraging in my own way and it seemed to make people reflect on stuff, even if they didn't agree. You seem to want to make it personal and acting like this on an internet forum where you feel safe and comfortable throwing stones around is a bit lame. I don't think you would say that to my face. You are welcome to the last word, but this is a thread on training - why not start a new thread to bitch about me? 

I think you may have forgotten the slagging off of this thread you did last week (and here and your general sarcasm).

I suspect that was the underlying reason Jasper made a jibe at you having two rest days and you'd forgotten about what you wrote last week whilst he hadn't.

[Jaspersharpe]

I'm not a half-wit. I think you understood my original point (others seemed to). In your last post you were just being a cock. I was just trying to be encouraging in my own way and it seemed to make people reflect on stuff, even if they didn't agree. You seem to want to make it personal and acting like this on an internet forum where you feel safe and comfortable throwing stones around is a bit lame. I don't think you would say that to my face. You are welcome to the last word, but this is a thread on training - why not start a new thread to bitch about me? 

  I don't want the last word, it's not worth it as you just don't get it.

I apologise for calling you a halfwit. That was out of order, it's just I get a bit frustrated when people don't listen to reason. I'd be happy to call you a halfwit to your face and then apologise too by the way. I do talk just the same in real life.
 

Sorry, but i had to rush my post before my daily 8.30am 3 hour mono campussing session.

That's pretty funny. Same joke I was making but from a different angle.....but of course, I was "being a cock". Anyway, back to the mono campussing.........

EDIT - What slackers said too.

[SA Chris]

I think you two should fight it out - handbags at dawn.

[Jaspersharpe]

I'm ill so I nominate Lagers as my second.

[Plattsy]

 

[Three Nine]

Ok righto. Sorry if i upset anyone.

What i think i meant to say in my original post (leaving aside what I actually said) was not that people weren't doing enough, but that people appeared to be valorizing laziness, by describing the 5 course meal they had etc. That's all. I appreciate that there is probably a degree of irony that I dont get, but it would be good if we could cultivate a climate of motivation, in which reading power club serves as an inspiring kick up the arse! I really didn't mean to come accross all sanctimonious - i never re-read my posts i just click 'post'.

I am only a beginner with training and i would always hope that people would criticize what i'm doing - as that would help me train better. Atm I have to have two rest days a week as my body is struggling to cope with the new training load, and i'm prone to sore elbows etc. I usually run on rest days but hurt my ankle. Did first run yesterday though and went ok, so expect to be doing cardio.

ps. more important than trying to justify probably an ill-judged post on my part is the fact that i would really appreciate people calling me up on what im doing. Power club could serve as some of that 'informal coaching' that Dave Mcleod bangs on about.

[lagerstarfish]

Week foor in tha Yoo Kay Bee Powa Club howse. Cross dressin cage fita, Jasper Shorpe, has called hard-caw trainin' motyvayta, 3-9, a half wit. Yoo tha public now decide who stays in the howse.
[/poorgavellisimpression]

[lagerstarfish]

I'm ill so I nominate Lagers as my second.

What on earth makes you think that I'm not ill? There is a vowel in the month after all.

[slackline]

Ok righto. Sorry if i upset anyone.

What i think i meant to say in my original post (leaving aside what I actually said) was not that people weren't doing enough, but that people appeared to be valorizing laziness, by describing the 5 course meal they had etc. That's all. I appreciate that there is probably a degree of irony that I dont get, but it would be good if we could cultivate a climate of motivation, in which reading power club serves as an inspiring kick up the arse! I really didn't mean to come accross all sanctimonious - i never re-read my posts i just click 'post'.

I am only a beginner with training and i would always hope that people would criticize what i'm doing - as that would help me train better. Atm I have to have two rest days a week as my body is struggling to cope with the new training load, and i'm prone to sore elbows etc. I usually run on rest days but hurt my ankle. Did first run yesterday though and went ok, so expect to be doing cardio.

ps. more important than trying to justify probably an ill-judged post on my part is the fact that i would really appreciate people calling me up on what im doing. Power club could serve as some of that 'informal coaching' that Dave Mcleod bangs on about.

Training is very specific and what works for one person may not work for another.

Its down to you to sift through what others are doing, try it yourself and see if it works.  I nor anyone else can know how your elbows feel after a given training exercise.

I suspect but don't know as I've not read it that 'informal coaching' is probably best gained from mates/randoms down the wall/training facility where you can see whats working and talk it through in real time.

[iain]

Power club could serve as some of that 'informal coaching' that Dave Mcleod bangs on about.

Ok, not coaching at all but here's a suggestion. If you can hang the 45's on a beastmaker then you should be aiming higher than font 7B, I can do that and there is no way I can hang the 45's, I'm not even close.

Admittedly I employ as much technical faggotry as I can to bring the moves down to my level but even so ...

[Jaspersharpe]

I'm ill so I nominate Lagers as my second.

What on earth makes you think that I'm not ill? There is a vowel in the month after all.

Yes, I hadn't thought that through. I nominate Dense instead.

[lagerstarfish]

Right shut up everyone and listen to me

M - finger pain in both hands, went to Burbage North and climbed like Sharma; sorry - climbed like Schama 
T - finger pain and toe pain (not gout  ) - hot water treatment
W - auto belay routes at Virgin (5,5+,6a,6a,6b,7a,7b,7b,6a,6a,6a) then burnt off by Jasper's mum on the weights so decided to do some dead lifts to restore honour (3x5x120kg)
Th - joints hurt in hands and feet - hot water and pain killers
F - run and pullups/dips (3x(6+6)fast), dead lift 140kg twice (patella pain)
S - coughing, joint pain. back feels great
Su - enjoyed perfect weather playing with kids and visiting BandQ. fingers hurt, toes less so.

weight 14st 7lb
body fat 31%

[SA Chris]

So as I don't get in trouble with management.

My week last week was the same as the one before except

T - went to Glenshee and snowboarded all day. Not a lot of exercise but my inner right thigh got a really good workout from riding POMAs all dy long.
S - had a good balanceboard session - spent half an hour on it while building flat pack furniture. Mad multitasking skills.
S - did an hour and a half snowshoe walk with the bairn. Quite knackering walking like you have shit your pants for an hour and a half.

[Norton Sharley]

So as I don't get in trouble with management.


S - did an hour and a half snowshoe walk with the bairn. Quite knackering walking like you have shit your pants for an hour and a half.

The Management are the trouble, he started this ridiculous other channel thread which has fortunately at last started to degenerate into where it should be at on UKB 

Had you shit yourself then Chris?  If not why walk like you had?

Is it significant that the Management trains like a beast, never has consecutive days off, and yet can't do the warm up on Dolly's board?

[BB]

Power club could serve as some of that 'informal coaching' that Dave Mcleod bangs on about.

Ok, not coaching at all but here's a suggestion. If you can hang the 45's on a beastmaker then you should be aiming higher than font 7B, I can do that and there is no way I can hang the 45's, I'm not even close.

Admittedly I employ as much technical faggotry as I can to bring the moves down to my level but even so ...

It's all relative. I think the 45s are quite conditions-dependant and different boards vary. On the beastmaker at the climbing academy I can hang the 35s eaasily for 6 secs, but on my home one I can't get near that without nesting and latching the thumb a little.

[chris_j_s]

Weight: 61kg

Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A boulder.
Stupid challenge to keep me motivated over the winter: Climb every problem in the room next to the tower at Ingleton Wall.

M: Routes at Kendal. Reasonable stamina session, up to 6c+, all steep and all long routes. Poor route reading when tired means I fail on a 7a flash attempt 4 or 5 moves from the top.
T: Bouldering at Inlgeton. Only 1 more problem, but given Ingletons highest grade (fuck knows what that means in real currency) so pretty pleased with that.
W: Fingerboard taken down due to pending redecoration which my wife assures me is urgent - sad times but still have rock rings.  Exercised brain in a local pub quiz. Didn't win unfortunately!
T: Routes at Kendal. Do a decent volume of long routes but starting to feel I should be making more gains than I am. Disappointed to still be struggling to flash steep 20m 7a's. I have flashed most of the 10-12m 7a's I've tried at Kendal this winter but making significant enough gains in endurance is proving to be a bit of a weak point. 
F: Try to work out some kind of power endurance routine on rock rings. Am vaguely successful so do 7 or 8 sets of that. Forearms about to explode by the end.
S: Manage to snatch a bit of time before visiting guests arrive to do my first outdoor routes of the year. Do a couple of 6c+'s, one is a retro flash (good start) and the other was agonisingly close to an onsight. Get it second go without too many problems. My goal of a 6c+ onsight definitely feels on!
S: 3.5 hour walk in the Lakes. Amazing weather!

Strange week of lows and highs this week really. Looking forward to actually getting outdoors in the sunshine and doing some real climbing.

[shark]

The Management are the trouble, he started this ridiculous other channel thread which has fortunately at last started to degenerate into where it should be at on UKB 

Is it significant that the Management trains like a beast, never has consecutive days off, and yet can't do the warm up on Dolly's board?

Nic, I'm going to rise to the bait.

This thread might might be ridicuous to you but it is obviously intersting enough for you and Dolly to take a look and the piss. It is demonstrably motivating for thpose that join in and provides a bit of structure to recveiw and plan ahead, If you two could get over yourselves for one second and joined in rather than sneering from the sidelines you might find it a useful mechanism towards getting a bit fitter and stronger to get up things you secretly aspire to rather than staying in a complacent place.

Whilst Dolly's board is a wondrous thing its not going to be a goal of mine to excel there ahead of the Oak, Powerband and the other amazing routes in Yorkshire nor do I think its the optimum way for me to train for them. My lack of bouldering strength is very obviuosly a limitation and I have been working hard to address it but the gains are hard and slow to get.

Sorry to deprive you of the endless amusement that it gives you to see me struggling there on a very regular basis though I am happy to visit and be a figure of fun from time to time.     

[nik at work]

OK Three Nine.

First the non-training bit:
People here take the piss, a lot, live with it, it's fun.
It's always a good idea to read what you're about to post, in much the same way as thinking before speaking.

Now the training bit:
I know next to nothing about training (I put lego in my training diary ffs!) but I'd agree that if you can hang the 45's you should be aiming higher than 7B, or working a different aspect of your climbing if you're not ticking 7B pretty regularly. I'd also add that training advice from beasts is not really what you want. The very good climbers are generally an annoying combination of huge natural talent coupled to bodies that can take endless punishment without getting injured. Not really applicable to the rest of us.

And finally the final bit:
A lot of people posting here are family men with a large array of other commitments besides climbing. This provides a handy way of recording how "training" is going, and by recording non-training can provide a bit of humour and also give a full picture of why the climbing isn't improving (after all five board sessions a week sounds good, until it's combined with 4 three course meals, seven bottles of wine, a few pints down the pub and a 14 hour session on the decks...). You have no idea how busy some people are, and the fact that they keep climbing at all is impressive let alone pulling down some fairly respectable grades.
I'm glad the beasts don't post here, can you imagine how depressing Rich Simpsons diary would be:
M - Woke up, picked an activity, decided to become world class at it, had lunch, trained really fucking hard all afternoon, had dinner, was world class at said activity, went to bed tired.
T - Woke up, picked an activity, decided to become world class at it, had lunch, trained really fucking hard all afternoon, had dinner, was world class at said activity, went to bed tired.
W - Woke up, picked an activity, decided to become world class at it, had lunch, trained really fucking hard all afternoon, had dinner, was world class at said activity, went to bed tired.
Th - Woke up, picked an activity, decided to become world class at it, had lunch, trained really fucking hard all afternoon, had dinner, was world class at said activity, went to bed tired.
F - Woke up, picked an activity, decided to become world class at it, had lunch, trained really fucking hard all afternoon, had dinner, was world class at said activity, went to bed tired.
S - Woke up, picked an activity, decided to become world class at it, had lunch, trained really fucking hard all afternoon, had dinner, was world class at said activity, went to bed tired.
Su - Woke up, picked an activity, decided to become world class at it, had lunch, trained really fucking hard all afternoon, had dinner, was world class at said activity, went to bed tired.