[dave k]

I had an hour on this last night and worked out all the moves from crimp around arete with left hand to the top

But can anyone  (Sam, Simon, Mike) offer their sequence to get left had on crimp  (as in the picture of Sam W in new Staffs guide).

I was trying arete below crimp with right hand, high heal with left foot

I also tried matching the crimp

Does a video exist?

 

[Andy B]

I was trying arete below crimp with right hand, high heal with left foot

That's right. Left heel just below your left hand starting hold.

[ferret]

i clamped up as for tetris then left heel cross left hand crimp? then right heel in pocket to lock for lip with left hand i think then put left knee on ramp matched right knee and put left foot on crimp, then yor mellow.
probably not too helpful, but it was a while ago and i remeber it being wierd

[Andy B]

I used a knee too, but it wasn't part of my sequence until my foot slipped off.

[a dense loner]

ferret you've been spending too much time in the states, yor mellow, is not something people say in england dude

[Jaspersharpe]

Word. 

And have you sorted your tax return out cos if not it's late? 

[dave k]

i clamped up as for tetris then left heel cross left hand crimp? then right heel in pocket to lock for lip with left hand i think then put left knee on ramp matched right knee and put left foot on crimp, then yor mellow.
probably not too helpful, but it was a while ago and i remeber it being wierd

That does help cheers. I was trying that but not fully trusting the left heal.

I am still not quite sure - If you had it with the left, then surely you would use right heal in pocket and go with the right hand (rather than crossing through to the lip with the LH)

The knee is definately a winner- the rock is perfectly shaped for a left knee- Then I brought my fight foot up to one of the positive holds and then left foot on crimp and only a slightly harder version of the original problem is left.

Cheers for the info

[Andy B]

If you fancy a warm up when you go back, I did a problem on the boulder beneath Columns etc. Starting off two crimps under the lip of the low overhang, move up to slopey rails, then up and left to finish. It's a reasonable little sitter, which unfortunately suffers from being right next to some of the best problems around. About 7a/+

[dave k]

Clearly I meant right foot, not "fight foot"! 

Have never noticed any boulder, will definitely give it a try.

Left traverse off Tetris/Hard arete is also a worthy variant- definitely adds an extra bit (prob 7a in its own right) of power endurance to either problem- although you really need to have a fair few mats or helpful mat mover to protect the thinish hand traverse.

Other possible projects/distractions!-

It could be possible to traverse to the middle of the blank wall and finish direct .(Tetris into traverse into direct finish could be the 8a the boulder has been promising!)

There is also the entire lip traverse (i.e. reverse of Columns, into tetris, into traverse across blank face)

Then there is the Columns/Tetris - direct finish - effectively climbing the Tetris arete on the right. 

[ferret]

ferret you've been spending too much time in the states, yor mellow, is not something people say in england dude

im trying to learn to blend in with the yanks, 1st step buy a truck, 2nd step use words like mellow and dude, 3rd step grow a bad mullet/tache combo. not quite gone the 3rd step, maybe ill always be an outsider

[hairich]

i think a mullett will suit you sir

[ferret]

sweet, proffesional advice