[spike2]

Right, so I'm a comically weak trad-climber who needs to redpoint 7b to win a bet. I'm not able to get to sport crags very often, so it'd be convenient if I could just show up and crush one (or at least do it in 2/3 sessions). The route would most likely be at Malham, so 12m crimpy stuff.

I've got me a Beastmaker, with the aim of doing some proper training. Skimming through this forum suggests you all climb at least 7b, and all have Beastmakers, so does anyone have any suggestions for a good routine for me to work towards?

Cheers!

[tomtom]

This is a good place to start:

http://www.climbingworks.com/download/files/Articles/beastmaker_fingerboard_article.pdf

I followed it and I now crush 8a's before breakfast, have a supermodel wife and will be announcing my solution to nuclear fusion and the worlds energy issues tomorrow morniong. Oh, and I'm a pilot too. 

I was only kidding (its 8b's actually..) - I'm a weak punter and these instructions were pretty much bang on for me. Just rest plenty, warm up well and follow the progressions. Then again you could just buy these and you become instantly strong because of the david ike moon rays : http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13302.0.html 

[BB]

I followed it and I now crush 8a's before breakfast, have a supermodel wife and will be announcing my solution to nuclear fusion and the worlds energy issues tomorrow morniong. Oh, and I'm a pilot too. 

Are you sure its the beastmaker and not you acrapi nexus skin suit that's responsible?

[shark]

To make your Beastmaker training as useful as it can be for a 12m Malham 7b I would work out a circuit  around the crimps and slots counting to 3 when you hold each hold using a foot on a chair set well back from the board. Try to set it so you can do the circuit for about 1 minute before pumping out. After warming up do 4 sets of this circuit timing how long you stay on doing it on-the-5 minutes i.e. start each circuit every 5 minutes. If you find you get up to 90secs then move the chair further back or in some other way increase the resistance. Upping the number of sets over time would be good as well or two lots of 4 with a 15 minute break maybe.   

This is a structure I use for systems board laddering and its worked well for me for the type of route you aspire to. Record your times and try to beat the previous session. I wouldn't do it two nights in a row though.
 

[Norton Sharley]

Bloody hell Shark, I'm pumped reading that.  Does it mean something?

Spike2: are you GraemeA in disguise, he needs to climb 7b to win a bet.

Me, I'd go out climbing and having fun and I bet you end up climbing 7b faster than Shark can say RSI.

[tomtom]

I followed it and I now crush 8a's before breakfast, have a supermodel wife and will be announcing my solution to nuclear fusion and the worlds energy issues tomorrow morniong. Oh, and I'm a pilot too. 

Are you sure its the beastmaker and not you acrapi nexus skin suit that's responsible?

Sorry for the late delay old chap, was just parking up the 747 - dreadful state of stacking for Heathrow today...

I've got a special edition mink/diamond encrusted acrapi (gold standard) thong to keep energy levels up when cranking like a bad asssed muvva.

[BB]

I've got a special edition mink/diamond encrusted acrapi (gold standard) thong to keep energy levels up when cranking like a bad asssed muvva.

Radioactive metals in your dung-hampers is seldom a good thing. Compression and testes don't mix too well either.

[tomtom]

I've got a special edition mink/diamond encrusted acrapi (gold standard) thong to keep energy levels up when cranking like a bad asssed muvva.

Radioactive metals in your dung-hampers is seldom a good thing. Compression and testes don't mix too well either.

 Tsk, have you not read the SCIENCE the acrapi+ mink and diamond ball-o-matic channels xenon encrusted particles heavily laced with pro-active radicals into the testes ensuring the enhanced production of titanium infused mega spunk.