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UKB Power Club Week 3 (Mon 22nd - Sun 28th) (Read 34083 times)

tomtom

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Be careful with your elbows. If you can avoid injury then I'm sure you'll improve quickly with your enthusiasm and commitment.

 :agree: take it easy - remember those tendons take much longer to develop than muscles..
Its taken me c.2 years to slowly build up to being able to train 3 times a week without trashing myself...
(but I may well be crap/lazy/slow etc..)

JamesD

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Yeah i'm gonna leave bouldering this week until Sunday to give it a chance to recover properly, gonna get on the swimming and back on the weights this week which will give me a good idea of how it is recovering, its so annoying when one slip of the foot throws you out for a week or so though!
I'm going to take it gently now until the V1's get really easy, and only then start going back to trying the V2's, and I don't think i'm going to attempt a roof problem for a while yet.

Jim

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just put the ladder up to give the guns a warm up for tomorrows session in the pass. suprised myself by pulling my fat carcass up 2 rungs on each arm with body straight on, ie no twisting. Quite suprised myself tbh

k2ted

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Weight - 14st 4lbs.    aim - get down to 13 stone 10, do 1st V6, recover a2 pulley - 8 frickin wks now...

Mon - rest
Tues - rest
weds - BUK, easy climbing V4 and less
thurs -  rest
Fri - finger board avoiding left ring pinkie
sat - rest n friends birthday
sun -  no condition to do owt. A2 strangely worse today.V dull...

iain

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STG: Font in 4 weeks, do 1 7b+
MTG/LTG: Freaky Ralph, onsight 7b

Mon: Tried double sessions. Morning fingerboard, assisted one-armers, then evening repeaters which I didn't complete. Boo.
Tues: ARC'ing session, wasted from Mon
Wed: Fingerboard workout of a type I haven't done for a while. Despite feeling tired easily recorded best numbers, v.pleased
Thurs: Fingerboard then wall for falling practice and easy session. Had fun.
Fri: Rest
Sat: Forecast crap, so drive to Bristol's TCA for very long steady session. Felt good but lacking timing and power.
Sun: Went out for a very nice meal, ate far too much, entered food coma

Good week for volume and felt that previous 6 weeks have done good things. Now need to focus on translating the good fingerboard numbers to actual climbing, will be difficult next week though.

duncan

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STG (3 months): climb El Cap.
MTG (15 months): E5
LTG: climb more, get injured less

M: Shoulder stability exs.
T: Shoulder stability exs., 10 feet-on pull-ups
W: sore shoulder, so rested
T: Shoulder stability exs.
F: Shoulder stability exs., 10 lock-offs
S: Felt completely crap
S: 10 minutes / 30m of F5 plodding, shoulder OK.

Cold and difficult week at work.  Getting much better / stronger at non-specific stability exercises but this is not yet transfering to pull-up type movements.   

webbo

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STG 7a+ again outside
LTG keep climbing
Mon bouldering Rockcity worked and ticked another problem plus repeating stuff.
Tues thought about training but as the wife had finally visited the wine shop she'd been threatening to visit helped drink some of her purchases.
Wed rough Rockcity did 2 circuits of 15 problems knackered .
Thu drank wine
Fri  bouldering Leeds wall good session managed 6 problems v5 and above.
Sat core exs Beastmaker session max hangs,cycling 21/2 hours.
Sun work drank single malt to get over it.

ChrisSharmaShepherd

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short term goals: improve shite technique. 1 armer on both arms
mid term goals: learn to trad climb properly!

M-Team training on route intervals
T-BEASTMAKER for 3 hours. hurt to type afterwards.
W-bit of stretching and core. mainly fuck all.
T-Training on boulder problems with minimal rest. killed me
F-Rest so stretching and loadsa core
S-BRYCS comp. in welsh final
S-Training with mark pretty again woop woop

Falling Down

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In reply to biscuit:

M - Early morning run. Travel and long work day.
T - Pressups and situps. Work and travel very long day.
W - Really early start. Physio pm. Works evening. Flashed 40 easy spotty problems and did 10 or so Purple ones.
T - Stretching pm
S - Early morning run. Planned to go to wall to do routes but couldn't find motivation.
S - Ditto

Tough week at work, slight cold, zero motivation to climb indoors at weekend, ate and drank a lot.

fried

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I was also tempted to play away but in the end I just couldn't face up to the deceit  :whistle:

Falling Down

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Ha ha  :-[

slackline

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Goal : Enjoy my climbing

Sunday : Drove up and down Cheddar Gorge in the rain, not very inspiring.  Bought 5L of scrumpy cider  :thumbsup:
Monday : Bouldering at the Matrix.  Bit busy, but fun none the less
Tuesday : Routes at the Foundry. Had fun.
Wednesday : Now't.
Thursday : Routes at the Edge.  Had fun.
Friday : Pub!
Saturday : Drove to fucking Devon to visit in-laws.  Not fun.

tomtom

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You've missed off your daily pint count Slackers? Or was the Scrumpy enough for the week  :)

Monolith

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Sunday - Had good day out with Donnelly and BenF at Normans Wisdom and Pill Box. Felt quite ok considering minimal activity of late.
Monday- Crushed uni.
Tuesday - Crushed uni.
Wednesday - Did a workout from hell on my board. Did countless pulls on medium rung and did reverse bicep training too. Plenty of hangs, one arm assists etc.
Thursday - Felt soreish
Friday - Felt sorer
Saturday - Dj'd at 21st party and at after hours. Broke new PB for time in the mix at 11 hours. Super happy. Got to bed 11pm Sunday. This was silly.


Promised I'd sort myself out last week so two sessions is good considering insane workload. Must stop partying. This weekend will be a test.

richdraws

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Thanks for the reminder to post Shark...

Goals
get out sport climbing (if anyone wants a Sheff based partner PM me please) and see what happens/enjoy myself.
boulder a few more 7c's and perhaps a 7c+ or 2, feel more confident on 7a-7b+ lime boulders.

try and get to font  during the year regularly for weekends or do a looong trip.

Rest week (mostly)
Mon - watched secret episodes of new series of secret thing at work that we are not working on shhhh. cycled to work and back 4.5 miles either way.  Worked a few hours over time . Ran 20 mins with Nat when I got home - silly.
Tue - Car being MOT'd cycle to work and back jogged from hillsborough to crookes kinda to pick car up.
Wed - nowt
Thurs - Fingerboard - one armers and assisted one armers - 3 finger open crimp 3-5 secs x 5 tried hanging the moon crimps but re split my index finger.
Fri - nowt
Sat - nowt
I include sunday in this weeks training.





shark

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Thanks for the reminder to post Shark...

You're welcome. Has this gayness perked you up?

richdraws

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No.
To be fair I am quite happy to just do a few pull ups and some hangs and forget all about climbing until the weather is less shit and work is less tiring.
When the clocks go back and the weather is drier and I can get outside of an evening you may see a slight tremor in my face that may be interpreted as a smile- but more likely its Parkinsons.

SA Chris

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Father forgive me for I have sinned. It's been 10 days since my last confession.

I have comitted sins of Avarice and Gluttony on a daily basis. (A few others too, but these have less effect on my health)

Aim, get some fitness back - down to 13.5 st, 13 st stretch

Do a decent 7a prob by middle of year

Get some surfing fitness back.

M - walk to work and back (1 hr total), hour of yoga.
T - got bus, no walking
W - walk to work and back (1 hr total) weight  back up to 13st 13 up 1 1/4 lbs), hour of yoga
T - walk to work and back (1 hr total)
F - walk to work and back (1 hr total)
S - Nowt
S - Nowt

This week was going to be the week I got with the program, but it aint looking good.

Yossarian

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Goals
1) Appear on cover of Mens Health
2) Go for first run since 1994 (it doesn't sound difficult, but it's all in the execution)
3) Do an ironman
4) Climb a photogenic Fr8a, make mugs etc

Monday - Friday - No training of any sort as far as I can remember.  Thought a lot about food and wine
Saturday - Cooked and ate huge quantities of rillettes and boeuf bourguignon, Drank 34 year old santenay. Mmmm
Sunday - Awful hangover.  Russian river valley chardonnay mid morning, then I kind of lost track. Pot au feu fucking good.  Collapsed around 9pm...

No luck with Mens Health yet, but might appear in FT's Power Dressing column. Watch this space...

lagerstarfish

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Broke new PB for time in the mix at 11 hours.


 :bow:

Jaspersharpe

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Those were the days.

Duncan Disorderly

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Seeing as I only ever go on UKC to post this shizzle anyway seems better to swap to a board aimed more at what I wanna do (ie boulder and sprot climb)...

Goals: F7c this season, some classic 7B's at home and in the forest, burn Fiend off some more! F8a before 1st Jan 2014..... Get over current injury!

M: Pullups - 5 sets of 10.
T: Bouldering @ The Works - New red circuit, going well until..... TWANG! Agonizing pain indicates something very very not good going on with me right knee, hop to car. Arse!
W: A&E with 1 non straightening knee - only soft tissue they say, no meniscus tear they say, no ACL PCL or Lateral Ligament issues they say... Should be thankful I suppose!
T: Physio examination - 1 torn hamstring tendon right behind my right knee! 4+ weeks out. Arse!
F: Get drunk.
S: Mope.
S: Campussing and fingerboarding @ The works - Weak, weak, weak, can only get better tho as only gonna be doing this for a month at least.

A truly shit week... Absolutely gutted! Off to Font at Easter.. Was planning a sport climbing trip.. yadda yadda yadda!

Funny really as I've been religious about warming up my arms and fingers but neglected the legs it seems... Could be a recurrance of an old injury tho.. I dunno!

Given me the impetus to train me fingers and locks so hopefully will come back stronger in the end..

This Week: Do some of the DIY I've been putting off. Campus and Fingerboard Tues, Thus and Sun.

:D (sorry for copying this from UKC - will try harder next week;-)

Richie Crouch

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It's a great opportunity to get strong as f*ck for font now Duncan!

I did a similar thing to my left knee on Beaver Cleaver a couple years ago and had one of my most productive indoor months ever fingerboarding/campussing and doing footless boulder problems on an overhang  :thumbsup:

Duncan Disorderly

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I totally agree.... I had surgery on the other knee about a year and a half ago, I just swam and fingerboarded all through my recovery then had the best season I'd ever had...

Just a bit of a shit when it happens... Look like a bit of a twat heading down the works with me crutch too :-[
(this is the least of my worries btw... ;D)   

Cheers,

:D

Will Hunt

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I will eventually have time to remember what I did last week and fill this in. But for now headtorch session at Caley is calling.

 

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