the shizzle > power club
UKB Power Club Week 2 (Mon 15th - Sun 21st)
shark:
Goals: Austrian Oak. 10,000 8anu points
Weight: 11.2-4
M. Busy day at work. Cancelled Malham trip as forecast was gash. Felt good about life driving home until I got rear ended. Glass of wine and toblerone. Felt sick. Was sick.
T. 11stone 2lbs Hallelujah!. Early Am Yoga. Another busy day. Lifted weights between phone calls. Did better on the Clean and Jerk and Power Cleans than last week.
W. PM Assisted one arm deadhangs and pull ups and offset pull-ups on board and ladder. Intense.
T. Eve. Ace session. Repeated all problems done so far and bagged the two project problems (Green black spots on steep section) Quick go on campus board.
F. Felt beasted and fluey all day – bagged planned finger endurance session
S. Malham. With Alex, Bob and Chris. And it was dry – mostly. Warm ups then 3 goes on the Oak though undercut by 3rd bolt was wet. Attempted quick go at redpointing Personal Services as light was fading but got spat off.
S. Two Breakfasts. Edge – did 15 routes whilst boys did the bouldering comp. Feel wiped. Roast dinner imminently.
First time climbing routes outside in 3 months. :thumbsup:What a rubbish winter. Did OK on Oak – hard to tell. Going to do more endurance stuff for next few weeks.
Falling Down:
M - 30 mins lunchtime run
T - Physio am; 45 mins light fingerboard pm
W - 18 hour work day!
T - Pressups & core
F - Pressups
S - 8 Routes at AW Stockport to 6b+
S - Pressups & bouldering on friends board 2 hours
The physio session with John at The Clinic was great. He diagnosed nerve compression in the shoulder, back and Tricep insertion rather than Tennis Elbow (which I did have last year) and basically said 'fill your boots' as far as climbing and training was concerned and a couple more sessions to ease the compression. A big psychological boost after the last few months of injury and illness.
I've not done any routes since September last year and only bouldered less than 10 times so I was really pleased climbing on the lead at Stockport yesterday and had a really good session on my neighbours board today.
I'd like to do 100 pitches before heading to Siurana over Easter - grade not relevant as I just want to go climbing when I'm there having missed my holiday there in October because of flu. I also booked a weekend in Zurich to go see Metallica and Slayer followed by three days bouldering in Cresc/Magic Wood :-)
This weeks goals -
Run twice
Physio Wed
Routes indoors 10 pitches
1 bouldering session outdoors (weather permitting)
Drink and eat less (weight has been creeping up 'cos I've guzzling wine by the bucketload)
Fiend:
Goals:
Break the world buttery eating record by such a spectacular margin no-one attempts to beat it ever again.
Find a way to use my new patented invisible email/text technique I've discovered (people's eyes just slide away from it as if by magic!) for either illicit profiteering or glamourous espionage.
Become even less tolerant of the imbiciles on the A80 roadworks (this may not actually be possible).
Tick all the schist bouldering that doesn't involve grotty, pointless and disproportionately hard sit-starts (this won't take long).
Persuade Scottish National Trust to build a chairlift up to Gharb Bheinn.
Progress:
Mon: 16 minute run (11.5 running, 1.5 walking, 4.5 running) - longest I've run continuously for months.
Tue: 1 hour steady walking.
Wed: 1 hour steady walking. Make promising contact via UKC.
Thu: 3 hours steady walking. Absolutely fine as all flat walking still is. Got sweaty. Listened to good drum&bass and metal.
Fri: n/a
Sat: 1 hour hard bouldering - climbed hardest problem I've done, also good slab practice. Finger taped and okay. Celebrate with 14 minute run (10.5r / 1.5w / 3.5r). May have followed through on run whilst farting.
Sun: 3-4 hours steady bouldering - good circuit, not as much flashing as I'd hoped. Finger taped, okay but a bit achey. Doused hands in frozen river afterwards, interesting, could feel pain in my arms from chilled blood returning. Had txted lots of people for cragging, few replies. Shower and stretching.
Comments:
A slightly odd week as I was resting my tweaky finger, so didn't get out despite good cold dry weather. I also had a lot of hospital / doctor appointments which I got decent exercise walking to, and explained why my fitness is wank, because the clots are still present.
I was also in a pretty bleak mood which made it hard to stick to beneficial exercise. However I got more SYKED at the weekend and ticked big numbers. Sunday was a bit disappointing as cragging plans fell through, but I still made good use out of it.
Finger is okay when taped, right shoulder a bit achey from sleeping on it funny, will keep working on that. Everything else plodding on okay.
shark:
--- Quote from: Fiend on February 21, 2010, 07:16:59 pm ---. Sat: 1 hour hard bouldering - climbed hardest problem I've done,
--- End quote ---
Nice one :beer2:
tomtom:
Good effort Fiend..
Goals (this year) work a 7b+ & Flash 7a
Mon: Rest - started cycling into work - good plan.
Tue: Depot with Rob - 3 hour session (great pink circuit though we did it wrong way round! - got a yellow or two) beasted.
Wed: Rest - open day at work.. bit manic
Thu: Rest
Fri: Trip to Slipstones to try Sulky Little Boys. It was the only dry(ish) problem at the crag. Warmed up on it, tried it for close to two hours - left as my skin was beginning to fail. Need more grunt.. (and to warm up properly..)
Sat: Rest - had to go into work for 4 hours on a lovely day.. arse.
Sun: Beastmaker session. (Didnt fancy Stockport wall) Working front two and back two for first time.. joyful agony :)
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