UKBouldering.com

Power Club 751 29 April - 5 May 2024 (Read 169 times)

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2969
  • Karma: +335/-2
Hello everyone, it's the long weekend so expecting late entries. The weather appears to have been intermittently better so hope people have managed to get outside. If not, keep showing up for when you can.

M - Hip flexibility: prone frog stretch, standing pancake stretch, sumo squats.

T - Hip flexibility. Walked 12km and stood for three hours (Donizzeti’s Lucia di Lammermoor, the archetypal 19th century opera: romantic love versus family obligation, the men are useless or shits, the heroine dies a tragic and unnecessary death in the third act but not before treating us to some transcendentally beautiful music. Katie Mitchell’s feminist staging was thought-provoking, Nadine Sierra was superb in one of the great roles of all opera.)

W - Tired. Hip flexibility as above.

T - Fingerboard pickups, left only, 18mm edge: 41kg x 7s for half crimp, 5s for full crimp. Shoulder and elbow conditioning: handstands, side planks. Hip flexibility as above.
 
F - Hip flexibility as above. Leg conditioning (box-steps, heel raises, single-leg squats).

S - Fairlop Waters concrete boulders with AJM and miniAJM. The latter has the tenacity and love of refining sequences that suggests he’ll be burning off his dad in the not too distant future! I felt completely out of gas for no apparent reason and barely did anything. Elbow was still sore after a trivial amount of climbing. Hip flexibility as above. Walked 10km.

S - Hip flexibility as above. Walked 8km.

Good to meet up with AJM and M.

A week's rest resulted in a PB in finger strength for the left hand, hopefully a good sign in the long term. The right elbow is now feeling a bit worse if anything, this should encourage me to stick with being moderately active as a strategy. Hampstead mixed pond has reopened at 13C, a bit cold for me right now, but will resume swimming fairly soon which might help. Sitting around at home is not helping my power-weight ratio!

Doesn’t now seem worth going to Scotland this month so I need to rejig my ideas for later in the year.



alba

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 2
  • Karma: +1/-0
Hi, thanks for the welcome last week and starting this week's thread. Welldone on the finger strength PB.

I can't fully remember my climbing this week apart from Thursday and then Saturday. Should make notes really.

Thursday: Climbed the 6a+ sport route I'd tried 2 or 3 times before. Wasn't that hard this time. Also climbed a boulder problem I'd been trying for quite a while, a V3.

Saturday: Got within about 3 moves of a 6b+ sport route. I imagine I'll go back and get that in the next week or two. I also made good progress on a Moonboard V3. I could barely do one move when I started and am now 3 or 4 moves into it. I feel like it's doable at some point which is great. Good thing about the moonboard is I feel like this is a proper V3 and it trains my weakness which is steep overhanging terrain.

I can now do quite a few of the V4 and even the odd V5s in the bouldering area although I know these are overgraded. Only thing that matters is they are largely right in relation to each other. Got close to a V6 on a slab.

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7998
  • Karma: +743/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
Power Club

Mon  - DL 531 week 3. Bentover rows.
Tue - farmer's. Pull ups. Heavy.
Wed - tired. Board climbing, set and climbed a problem just at the right intensity. Board fitness is one problem. Back work, bar work.
Thu - weights, pull ups.
Fri - dips, push ups, DL 531 week 4.
Sat - regular weights.
Sun - boxing bag.


SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29277
  • Karma: +634/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
Not much to report training wise, not a good week.

M - not much, taking it easy after cheating my way round 15 mile run on Sunday. Usual coffeemaking pullups but little else.
T - same
W - same. Think I did a few pickups with the edge.
T - was going for a lunchtime run, but got a last minute doc appt.
F - drive to Glen Affric, got there later than intended thanks to detour. 14km cycle to YH with stupidly heavy pack. Light needed for most of the route. Drank whisky until too late.
S - misty start, both in head and outdoors. as weather lifted, headed up Beinn Fhada, great views all round, but a demoralising circuitous descent - 22km. More whisky, determined not to carry it back out again.
S - slow start to cycle out but a lot easier with lighter pack - 14 km. Stopped for a look at the Ledge in Inverness, but non-climbing mate not keen to hang about.. 

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal