[Ethan]

Not likely to be included until the 2020 games, but cool that its been accepted. And I believed that it will just be sport climbing but not entirely sure yet....

[cofe]

I'd have preferred to see really fucking dangerous trad climbing myself, with medals awarded posthumously where appropriate.

[Paul B]

I'm not sure this is such a great thing TBH.

(my Money is on Ondra for Gold, and for our representatives to be from the Purple Ends gang)

[dave]

My money is on it being boring as fuck to watch.

[Ethan]

As boring as horse dressage and shooting??

[Rocksteady]

Hmmmm

On the plus side, one would hope our training facilities will receive a welcome cash-injection, and get better. The sports-science of climbing might well also further develop, hopefully filtering down to benefit all of us.

On the downside, our training facilities may get even more ridiculously overcrowded and perhaps overpriced, and some of the punters might even migrate to overcrowd our crags...

We'll see.

Can't see it being scintillating viewing. Mind you, long running races are in my view about as interesting as watching paint dry. And speed walking WTF?!?!!?

[Paul B]

On the downside, our training facilities may get even more ridiculously overcrowded and perhaps overpriced, and some of the punters might even migrate to overcrowd our crags...

I can see the Pro's and a few years ago I'd have thought this was a great thing and just what climbing needs. These days I think increasing popularity just isn't a good thing. Modern indoor bouldering walls where you have to have zero ability to get started are already attract enough fucktards. For instance, the Mrs was invited to go climbing for a work social. She cringed and made excuses.

[Sloper]

Yeah and if things go according to plan I'll be in the UK as I'll probably be the only person able to pass a drugs test.

[Bernard Jefferies]

It's easy to criticise new starters but there are an equal number of twats at every level down climbing gyms.  Many climbers think that because they climb they are somehow a bit special.  I feel sorry for a lot of starters at climbing walls having to deal grumpy gits all the time....bit off topic I know.   

I can't see it generating a massive amount of interest anyway especially if it's boring to watch.......which it will be.  It's like watching curling at the winter olympics, you're not suddenly going to jump out of your seat and go "hang on a sec, I want to give curling a try"

[richdraws]

Fuck off! I always watch the curling.

[Paul B]

It's easy to criticise new starters but there are an equal number of twats at every level down climbing gyms.  Many climbers think that because they climb they are somehow a bit special.  I feel sorry for a lot of starters at climbing walls having to deal grumpy gits all the time....bit off topic I know.   

I think the distribution is skewed somewhat towards the beginner end. Climbing with ipods on, over, across wherever the hell they fancy. Not having any understanding of when they're in the way (or caring). Wearing sunglasses whilst climbing in a badly lit room. Trying to do pullups with their fingers through the pulley attachments for one armers. Falling off, getting back on, falling off, getting back on legs going like a windmill whilst a long queue forms. Coming to try and do an iron cross on the rings because they saw it once on the tv, how hard can it be? Never brushing anything. One at my Mrs' place of work turned up with a new rope to use for leading and top roping, he got it cheap so he did. It was a static line. Mention the word gri-gri to a beginner and sit back and listen for sucking in of air through teeth because some one with grey hair on UKC told them that they are certain death. Mention UKC to them and they get all excited. Throw in a red helmet and christmas has come early. I have I gone off topic yet?
Now I know I'm grumpier than I should be for a 24 year old, and that there are  a few grumpy people / twats (me included) around but I struggle to come up with a list anywhere near that off the top of my head.

[robertostallioni]

Is this thread FACTual? Do we have a link?

[Bernard Jefferies]

To be fair Paul I agree with everything you said.  There's a chap that comes down my local wall who wears fingerless gloves to save his skin.  I had to walk out the room when I first saw it as  I couldn't stop laughing.

[Paul B]

I was once bought a finger torch and told "well it'll be good for seeing down the back of all those cracks and stuf". Yes love, course it will.

[Paul B]

drew:
http://www.rockandice.com/inthemag.php?id=108&type=onlinenews

sweaty palms?

edit: thats from '07

[Baron]

You sound like Cartman

[Tris]

Is this thread FACTual? Do we have a link?

It's mentioned in this one for cricket:

http://www.reuters.com/article/idUSLDE61B01E20100212

[Paul B]

You sound like Cartman

Beeefffcakkke. I'm afraid I don't have the looks to match. If indeed you were talking to me?

[Sloper]

Paul, with your voice you could stand be hind me and we could do a double act.

'screw you that's not 8b'

[Nizza]

Paul I agree completely that those people exist, trust me if you think you have it bad you should try living in London the place is crawling with them, most of the people who work at the walls are the same.  But I disagree that it can't have a positive effect on the sport.  The more people involved in climbing and buying climbing gear/clothing etc the more money should filter through to supporting the top end.  The more top end climbers recieving funding and therefore able to commit 100% to their sport, the more standards will progress.  People like the ones you've described exist in all sports, they certainly do in snowboarding, skateboarding and surfing, but it is the money generated by these people buying products that supports the pros.

Admittedly this takes the manufacturers to commit to using a percentage of their profits to athletes, I ranted about this recently on my blog, hopefully one day it will happen and maybe having their athlete on an olympic podium might encourage them to do it.

[Paul B]

I visited some London walls when stuck at the in-laws, I hated it. I even got told off for getting changed (i.e. trousers) not in the changing rooms.

I completely understand where you're coming from. More people, more awareness greater funding at the top end. I just don't agree that these benefits outweigh the neg's. As Bonjoy pointed out on another thread there is a finite amount of rock and it can only take so much punishment. The fact that a lot of people may be introduced to climbing in a less than traditional manner means values such as not climbing on wet grit, cleaning your boots, brushing things etc. get lost and it doesn't take much of that to cause huge damage. Add to that increased numbers and access agreements will suffer. It only takes a few to spoil things for the masses.

Its a big gamble to allow more people to climb 'professionally' (Reading this back its at complete odds to a rant I had around 4 years ago)

[Fiend]

How is it going to be consistent and quantifiable from games to games??

[Nizza]

In London 99% of people don't climb outside and they never will.  People teach climbing at the wall I train at and do not climb outside!  Why is it a gamble for people to climb professionally?

[Paul B]

sorry bad punctuation.. Basically I was implying that I felt that you risk a lot of potential issues for what seems like a small gain (for a minority).

[robertostallioni]

I didn't find anything on the IFSC website recently, nor anthing anywhere else of consequence. Unless I've missed something this is a bit of a non-story. Where's our GraemeA with a quick reminder?