[mark]

Off to Fontainebleau on Friday - Hurray! - though for only 3 days - Boo! What do people reckon are the very best problems they have ever done or tried or seen there? My hitlist is stupidly long already but what else should be added to it? Suggestions at all grades welcome.

[dave]

Good call. I'm off there in 10 days time for a week (touch wood).

From previous trips i can recomend the following, but you've probably done them already....

• Joker 7a, Cul De Chien
• Cortomaltese 7a, Bas Cuvier
• Impasse Du Hasard 7a+, Cuisiniere
• Marie Rose 6a, Bas Cuvier
• Hammers Break 7a  :wink: , Cul De Chien
• Medaile en Chocolat 7a, Apremont (not seen this since chipping)
• Les Yeux 5ish, Apremont
• Big pocketed wall off in the trees 5ish (fun), Elephant
  

[fatboySlimfast]

chasseur en prise(sp?) 7a Rocher Cannon
Duroxamanie 6c/6c+/7a(depends on wat guide!!) cuvier rampart
excalibur 7a/7a+ cuisniere
class class class oh yes

[Omega]

You should ask yorkshiregrit - i'm sure he has a list of 7b+s a mile long for you to try....er...sorry, that should be 7bs with a trick.

For my money, you can't go past l'hyper plomb 6c/7a at apremont - fat sloper action!

[mark]

dave,
I've done Joker, Marie Rose and the big pocketed line at Elephant but not the others.

Impasse was already on the list. Tried it last year but found it too powerful matching into the sidepull. This year though I'm strong like horse! (Ish.)

Hammer's Break? Don't know that. I'll have a look as Toit de Cul de Chien is on the list. And if we visit Apremont then I'll check your recommendations there.

Cortomaltese, urgh. I don't get on with pure slopers like that. Similarly, El Poussah feels impossible to me, despite being a big fan of cissy-boy, toe-hooker footjiggery.


FBSB,
I've done Duroxmanie and Excalibur but don't know Chasseur en prises. Loads at Canon I'd like to try but it's been too wet on previous visits.


Omega,
Don't know Hyper-plomb. I'll have a look.


I'll reciprocate and suggest the following if you haven't done them...
Surplomb de l'Avocat 5+, Apremont. Steep, juggy, brilliant.
13eme Travail 6c+ to 7c+ depending on where you start and whether you use the block on the right, Apremont. Steep, not particularly juggy, brilliant.
Surplomb de la Coquille 6c+, Isatis.
Envie des Betes 6b, Isatis.
La Rhume Folle 7a, Cuvier. Fantastic arete.
Abbatoir 7a, Cuvier. Brilliant, classic.
#3 Red 5?, Cuvier. A big pocket and a small edge around a bulge.
#14 Red 6b?, Roche aux sabots. Great pinchy arete.

On my to-do list...
L'Angle Parfait 7a+, Dame Jouanne. Looks soooo good.
La Daube 7a, Cuvier. The only red at Cuvier that I've not managed.
Angle a Jean-Luc 6b+, Roche aux Sabots. As above, this is all that stands between me and completion of the red circuit. Has kicked my backside on several occasions so far.
Toit de Cul de Chien 6c+. Haven't been there for years and it was too hard for me then. Love to do it this trip if I can convince the others - who I think have all done it - that they want to visit.
Any one of the above and I'll be happy. More than one and you'll hear the shouts back in Sheffield.

[dave]

Impasse was already on the list. Tried it last year but found it too powerful matching into the sidepull. This year though I'm strong like horse! (Ish.)

Yeah you have to get your left foot by your left hand one that edge then its in the bag. Good luck.

I've done Joker, ........I'll have a look as Toit de Cul de Chien is on the list.

When i said "Joker" i am refering to the Toit de Cul de Chien- i belive thats the actual name for it, apparently (!?!)

[mark]

Ah, I thought you meant the Joker at Cuvier, another classic 7a.

[Percy B]

How about these.....

L'arrache Coeur (7c) and El Poussif (7a)(not El Poussah!) at Isatis. Check you're guide and hunt around for the former (it's the easiest 7c in the Forest, possibly easier than Le Statique (5+!) at Isatis, but quite high - couple of mats and a good spotter will see you right though!) Also sit start to Surplomb de Coquille is awesome and weighs in at a steady 7b (standing start in 6c+ and brilliant too)

Le Magnifique (7a) at Cuisiniere, although every problem in this area is class

Le Lepreux Direct (7a+) at Elephant - proper slopers!

Les Conquistadors (7b) at Rocher Greau - big wall on good but small crimpers. If you do this and feel brave, try the right hand finish (Monolith 7c)

La Baleine (7a+) and Big Gym (6c highball) at Petit Bois

Festin de Pierres (7a) in a courtyard behind Duroxmanie on the way to Cuvier Rempart

Better still, go and explore some of the newly developed areas around the Gorge de Franchard. I'm not going to give too much away but some of the more rarely visited (by Brits!) areas define the expression 'world class bouldering'. Have a good trip - you've got an ever growing tick-list to take with you! :D

[fatboySlimfast]

:D  :D  :D  :D
ooooohhhhhhhhhhh im so excited and i just cant hide it
Yeah, me an bubba off to soon i hope!!!(sorry and the girlies!)
This is what a message board should be for, getting inspired not arguing about the down grading/up grading/degrading of gritstone HVS

[dave]

Has anyone done an outlying problem at Cuisiniere called "Trois Hommes et un Coup Fin" 7b??? It used to feature in an old Stone Monkey advert, with some guy pulling round a roof lip on quite a big boulder. Its looks a good problem, i was wondering if anyone had been on it, seen it, or knew anything about it??

[Bubba]

:D  :D  :D  :D
ooooohhhhhhhhhhh im so excited and i just cant hide it

Are you about to lose control?

[dave]

:D  :D  :D  :D
ooooohhhhhhhhhhh im so excited and i just cant hide it

Are you about to lose control?

And I think he likes it :wink: oh yeah.

[Huffy]

Good list of problems so far, I Agree that La Balene is really good (Prob one of the best?)
Dunno if this one has already been suggested but 'La Plomb sur dela coquille' at isatis is my favourite problem in font - you gotta use your nose a bit to find it tho. It's in all the guides on plan 1
6B+ standing, 7b sitting both ****!

Huffy

[Huffy]

.....and if you fancy climbing hard on nice rock in quieter areas then
Noir Desire (7c) at Rampart is superb - finger freindly on wicked sandstone Huecos

Hope the rains stopped and that the pof is sticky .

[dave]

Has anyone done Angle Parfait at Dame Jouanne?? It looks amazing:



I'll certainly have a go at this if i am in the area, it looks ultra classic, although its probably to technical for me.

[Bubba]

Wow! That looks stunning  :D

It's 7a+ I believe.

[dave]

Yeah, I bet it's one of them where you'll probably be cruising 7cs before you'll do it!!

[mark]

Bloody weather. Got back last night after 3 days in Font. Saturday was damp so we went to Apremont in the morning as it's about the fastest drying area. We climbed but conditions were not particularly good. Cafe break then to Cuisiniere where, again, it was climbable but still damp.

Sunday it rained so we went exploring. Visited Rocher Greau, Petit Bois and Gorges du Houx. All 3 worth a return visit when it's dry. Not that I need more things to do at Font!

Yesterday was damp. The further north we went the better it was so we went to Cuvier. Had fun, did some new problems but conditions were bad enough that it wasn't worth trying anything very hard.

Oh well, you take your chances at Font. Fingers crossed that next time it's cold, clear and dry.

[dave]

The weather better be god damn dry next week or I'm gonna be unimpressed. First time i went there the forecast was looking shit, but everyone said "don't worry cos calvaire is always dry" - was it fuck, not a dry hold there. Fortunately it stopped raining about 11am every day so we got loads done at places like apremont, and cos we climbed lots, assuming the next day would be wet we were physically fucked by the end of the trip.

[Bubba]

Bloody weather. Got back last night after 3 days in Font.

That's harsh Mark - better luck next time....

[Bubba]

Note

Please don't link any more pics from bleau.direttissima.com (bleau.info).

Their server won't allow hotlinking - ie, it prevents us linking their images into this forum.

Whilst I fully understand why they do this (bandwidth, etc), and we're going to be doing the same to prevent anyone hotlinking our videos, I feel it's a bit of a shame as it's only the forum, and I'd never hotlink into the main ukb site.

Boldering.com hotlink many of our pics and if anything, it's a good way of getting new visitors to the site, but oh well, never mind......sorry bleau.info if we've pissed you off!

[dave]

Soz. :crying:

[Bubba]

'Tis ok! I only found out as I was trying to do the same and found the forum image returned to me instead!

I really can't see why it's a problem unless we were getting squillions of hits, then I can see the point. It's different with vids as they're so high bandwidth. Like I said, I reckon it's a good way of getting more publicity but hey, maybe bleau don't need any extra publicity.

Maybe I should be flattered that  they must have actually trawled their server logs and put in a special rewrite rule just for us  :wink:

[dave]

BUMP

I'm off tonite, so last chance for any good sugestions not already mentioned.......

Anyone done that Rubis Sur longe thing?? is it extremely hard, or is it do-able for a mortal like myself?

[Bubba]

I'm off tonite

Yeah yeah, don't rub it in you barsteward   :wink: