[Fiend]

Andy could you give Shadowlands a good scrub when you're warming up lapping it please 

[cha1n]

It would be a travesty not to do Ames Low whilst you're there (if you go). Worth checking out if the dartmoor and surrounding areas are any good. I've only been to Bonehill and that was disgustingly sharp granite in a nice (but exposed) setting, I probably wouldn't rush back there.

The view from Bivy buttress is really nice if you're into that sort of thing, pay close attention to the walk-in directions as it won't be that fun if you get lost.

[T_B]

Going to Dartmoor on the Sunday with a big team so saving skin for that

[andy popp]

Andy could you give Shadowlands a good scrub when you're warming up lapping it please 

Yeah, right ...

[BrutusTheBear]

I've only been to Bonehill and that was disgustingly sharp granite in a nice (but exposed) setting, I probably wouldn't rush back there.

I'd get yourself a taster for your pasties if you are planning on coming back to Devon!

[Duma]

Nows a good time for Huntsham, gets very overgrown by the summer. Please don't go to Sally in the woods instead, it's terrible in comparison! Bivi buttress is a lovely spot with some testing roof problems, though Squire's Goliath got a second ascent the other day so you'll have to settle for third! Once you're at sliced slug Bivi buttress is fairly easy to find, just up and left.

[cha1n]

I'd get yourself a taster for your pasties if you are planning on coming back to Devon!

That'll be those famous 'Devonshire Pasties' then?

Hey, I said it was a nice place with disgusting, sharp granite. Fair comment? I'm pretty keen to check out some of the other crags if they are better though.

[SA Chris]

It's all granite on Dartmoor. Of various degrees of sharpness. Need to adopt different style to get stuff done.

[Duma]

It's all sharp, except the metolius bits. Cha1n is a pussy though.

[Three Nine]

The moor and the woods are fuckin brilliant in so many ways. Yeah its abrasive, but there are so many good problems. Huntsham is a bit of an esoteric shithole, and fairly nasty on the skin too in places (peckett roof anyone?!).

Cha1n is a man who cried off outdoors on Sunday cos of a bad finger, but then went on the moon board. His opinion on this matter counts for 

 

[PipeSmoke]

Huntsham is awesome, appointment with beer well worth doing, its not sketchy at all, well not as sketchy as it looks. Alex's roof, Ames low, porthole, loads good to go at
Spoke to the hunter bloke a few times now , he was pretty relaxed with it all, just said if you can hear a hunt on then leave and also park in muddy verge/layby. Met another guy with a shotgun as well on the way up the path , he was fine with me climbing on the boulders near the path but not near the river. I think a combination of several cars parking in turning circle and climbing when they are hunting has led to this "access" stuff

[duncan]

Unless someone has a better idea for somewhere between Sheff and Exeter?

Biblins Cave? May-September only. I've not been - too hard for me - but it looks good.

[SA Chris]

It's quite a detour isn't it? Does look great if you are operating in that range. Given it's start of access season it might need a bit of a clean?

[Duma]

Biblins is a nice spot, but much less to go at than Huntshams. Bit more of a detour than Huntshams too. I think Alex's Roof has broken, not tried it since though. Appt w/beer is great, and about 6B+

[T_B]

So is like Appointment with beer fairly positive and doesn't suffer from some heinous slopey top out?

[BrutusTheBear]

It's all sharp, except the metolius bits. Cha1n is a pussy though.
Cha1n is a man who cried off outdoors on Sunday cos of a bad finger, but then went on the moon board. His opinion on this matter counts for 

It's all clear now.  Real rock hurts your poor soft fingers and you would prefer to pootle around inside on crispy clear sunny days. Must be some kind of vampire with skin issues.

[cha1n]

It's all sharp, except the metolius bits. Cha1n is a pussy though.
Cha1n is a man who cried off outdoors on Sunday cos of a bad finger, but then went on the moon board. His opinion on this matter counts for 

It's all clear now.  Real rock hurts your poor soft fingers and you would prefer to pootle around inside on crispy clear sunny days. Must be some kind of vampire with skin issues.

The issue is that I have really weak pulleys that get injured when I even look at a crimp. Dartmoor lured me in with its beautiful, sloping features only to turn out to be boning down on razor sharp crystals - grim. I don't think you can like any sharp granite bouldering without having very strong fingers, same reason I think Peak lime is shit init.

I know it was only banter, but regardless, I only had the briefest of plays on the moonboard and the rest of the time was spent getting pumped on easy circuits. It's a pinky injury, so I can be selective when bouldering but when I'm pumped and scared on a (sport!) route, I'll just bone down on whatever I'm holding to avoid falling off because as Duma said, I'm a pussy.

[PipeSmoke]

So is like Appointment with beer fairly positive and doesn't suffer from some heinous slopey top out?

Top is slopey but completely fine , give it a go

[fatneck]

How banned is Huntsham?

i.e. is a quiet approach with pads (but no dogs) likely to arouse an angry shotgun wielding local and an arseful of shot?

[andy popp]

That used to be the deal, but I've no idea now - it's a long time since I've been.

[Fiend]

Boulders are well hidden in the jungle these days if that helps, more likely to get an arseful of stag antlers.

[Hacker]

No personal experience but the recent accents feature on the other channel has some accents if that helps. Expect a low profile as you suggest would be best.

[cheque]

Basically, try not to sound too scouse Fatneck. 

[joeisidle]

How banned is Huntsham?

i.e. is a quiet approach with pads (but no dogs) likely to arouse an angry shotgun wielding local and an arseful of shot?

Officially it's still banned but in reality if you keep a low profile it'll probably be fine - I haven't heard any reports of anyone being collared by the landowner in recent times. RAD and most guidebooks suggest avoiding deer staking season (November to March) though, and given the softness of the rock and the crag's aspect avoiding the wetter months is probably a good idea anyway.

[Goat]

We were told to leave by the gamekeeper before we even made it to the main track. This was a year and a bit ago during the deer stalking season. (Probably a bit unfortunate.)