[Durbs]

I've heard lots of references to font elbow, and think I get it/got it...

First noticed it on my first trip to Font (unsurprisingly), but have recently got it whilst training indoors as well, possibly coinciding with increase in feet-off tendancies on harder routes.

Quite a sharp ache in the outer elbow but only when not climbing. If moving, don't really notice it, but as soon as I stop it starts up again.

Is this font elbow? Or golfers elbow?
The day after, felt no discomfort at all - got home from training and iced them whilst collapsed in front of the telly and they've been fine since.

As I mentioned, i've been more feet-off than usual, and generally end up hanging from bent arms. Trying to stop cutting loose generally as it's only from desperate dynamic moves that my feet are coming off anyway, but is it bad technique likely to be causing this?
Or should I get into the habit of sets of press-ups during each session to work the agonistics?

Pretty good about warming up, and climb 1 or 2 times per week.

[Fultonius]

Loads of people get "Font" elbow, and then complain of pain inside, pain outside and pain of the biceps... Font Elbow kindof encompasses all of these, so it's not very definitive!

If your feet are "popping" off the holds, then it will increase the shock load on the elbows; however, you can deliberately go dynamically to holds without too much shock, even with feet off.

Don't overdo it on problems that involve these types of moves - the repetetive strain will not do them any good.

Don't climb through the pain - if it persists, stop and go and see a decent physio.

I started doing press-ups on a wobble board and this seemed to help my shoulders and elbows a lot!

[GCW]

I always found deep locks/mantels beast my elbows.
The pain is worst just when you release a lock, seems OK during the lock.  But as Fultonius says it varies a bit.

Press ups are a good idea, I hear wide hand spacing is best.

[highrepute]

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13162.0.html

this thread might be useful. and specifically the article linked to in the second post.

It sounds like you've only just noticed the symptoms so get on it now before it gets worse!

[Durbs]

Ah ok, so it's not a "stop climbing for 3 months" thing?
Just train sensibly and climb better...

Pesky sensible goals

With regards to "climbing through the pain" - it's a weird one as they don't hurt when climbing, flame up when i've finished a problem

[GCW]

You may want to try to keep your feet on more, too.  That may help.

Something about "body tension" I believe, although I've no idea what that means 

[Fultonius]

Hurting "after" a problem is a classic sign - read the elbow article on Athalon - it has some info about this. It doesn't mean climbing is ok!

The 'Font' elbow I've had in the past has only ever hurt atfer jumping off the problem, not while climbing it. (well, sometimes it got so bad it hurt while climbing too, but that's when it was *really* bad...)

[GCW]

I used to find it was the release that did it.  If I did a deep lock on the left hand, got the top with right- as soon as I let go with my left hand the elbow would explode with pain.  I hope that makes sense?

[Fultonius]

Aorry, I wasn't massively clear - mine hurt mainly "on release" and thereafter aswell.

[SA Chris]

I hope you wipe up after the release? The pain can be just from bad arm angle during vinegar strokes.

[Durbs]

Ah, the old "liquid chalk" eh...

Climbed last night, and forced myself to climb properly, keeping feet on etc, and voila - no elbow pain (and didn't climb that much crapper either so double bonus).

Then came back and did some sets of push-ups too - hands together, hands far apart.

Hopefully should sort shit out.
Cheers m''dears

You primitive, juvenile lot you

[highrepute]

Then came back and did some sets of push-ups too - hands together, hands far apart.

good to hear that you climbed without pain. Be worth keeping up the press-ups (everyday if possible), there's a variety of other exercises that might also come in useful the Antagonistic basics thread is a gold mine.