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hard grit, soft snow... (Read 49249 times)

Jim

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#50 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
January 31, 2010, 10:17:48 pm
awesome.
trouble with being only a boulderer. I don't know any routes

north_country_boy

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#51 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
January 31, 2010, 10:18:14 pm
Hanging arete right of 3blind - brilliant and safe at the mo.

I'll 2nd this, very good and much safer than usual!

butterworthtom

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#52 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
January 31, 2010, 11:35:33 pm
Im off snowballing tomorrow...
Nosferatu, Nefereti, Pebble Mill and 3 blind mice are what we are headed for I think. Taking the snow shovel. Is there still lots of snow to be had?

north_country_boy

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#53 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 01, 2010, 01:04:42 am
Im off snowballing tomorrow...
Nosferatu, Nefereti, Pebble Mill and 3 blind mice are what we are headed for I think. Taking the snow shovel. Is there still lots of snow to be had?

No snow to be had at burbage south. And you probably wont need a shovel, its been kindly done for you!

Bonjoy

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#54 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 01, 2010, 09:11:04 am

Cemetery Waits got a few more ascents this eve just as the sun was going down. Waddage to whoever shovelled the snow!
Lets see it then!


Ahem. Who's £18 primo horse shit shovelling shovel has been making all these platforms?  :whistle:

dave

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#55 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 01, 2010, 11:03:38 am
I wonder if any of these snow landings are going to lead to a new genre of ascent - snowpoint?

I.e. you get your route worked now when its a highball problem, then come back when the snow is gone to get the full E7 tick or whatever - and whats more it still counts as a ground-up.

Bonjoy

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#56 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 01, 2010, 11:32:13 am
That pre-supposes that an ascent above snow is an invalid ascent.
Technically snow as a weather phenomenon is just an extreme of good conditions. Just as you don’t get an extra grade for doing something in bad conditions should you get a lower one or consider an ascent less valid if conditions are very good? As you've said before, grades are for climbs not ascents. Obviously if significant hard climbing is buried it complicates the matter a little. I’m playing devils avocado here a little maybe.  :P
Again this question boils down to this whole bolloxy ‘claiming the grade’ thing. If you climbed the line without resort to a rope and you’ve enjoyed it, why even consider the stuffing of square pegs into round holes after the event? Enjoy the rare treat for what it is, it’ll be gone soon enough.

dave

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#57 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 01, 2010, 11:40:45 am
That pre-supposes that an ascent above snow is an invalid ascent.

I think you're reading me wrong. I agree with everything you've just written of course, as its the same as I've banged on about myself over the years.

I meant more that if there's a route you've always wanted to do from bottom to top in its condition it is 99.9999% of the time but never had the balls to go for it and didn't want to toprope it, then this is a unique chance to both work something and maintain the ground-up approach. That is  say if you've always wanted to do Three Blind Mice the E7 rather than Three Blind Mice the font 7a. This might apply to some people, as maybe the challange of the bad landing or the height was part of the appeal to do the route. I know if i turned up at froggatt to find the final flake of stapadictomy was now a sitstart problem it wouldn't stop me wanting to lead it in normal conditions.

I think my choice of phrase of "full E7 tick" was a bit unfortunate, a better choice would have been "full E7 ascent experience".

SA Chris

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#58 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 01, 2010, 11:52:59 am
Surely winter effix apply - amount of snow does not alter grade of route? :)

Bonjoy

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#59 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 01, 2010, 12:18:11 pm
Dave - I agree with what you said too, so we're both in perfect harmony, like ebony and ivory, side by side on my piano keyboard. I sort of knew your position already, was just using what you'd said as a convenient launchpad for some opinionating.

dave

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#60 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 01, 2010, 12:23:48 pm
No worries BonCartney, you're welcome on my stool any day.

butterworthtom

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#61 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 01, 2010, 06:04:44 pm
Had a very good day today. Started with Long tall sally, then the vs crack to the right of the slap, 3 blind mice after quite afew attempts, had a go at nefertiti but wasn't managing it, and finished it off with an e4 that I don't know the name of.

Awesome day out, especially since I haven't been climbing outside in months. 3 blind mice saw a total of 5 ascents today.

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#62 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 01, 2010, 07:38:26 pm
Dammit.... wish I had taken some holidays this week.  I'm 40 this year and might be 60 by the time this happens again!

butterworthtom

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#63 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 01, 2010, 08:06:35 pm
Here's some pics of today's fun. Sorry for the facebook link.


Jim

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#64 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 01, 2010, 10:21:37 pm
I'd say this was once in a lifetime thing.
Unfortunately my son had to go into hospital today and is staying overnight. Nothing serious, just for observation. Anyway spent all day at the hospital  :wall:  hopefully he'll be out tomorrow morning and I can get on over. Hows the snow holding up?
Its raining in the MCR at the minute and I'm worried the snow will be disapearing fast.
Anyone out tomorrow?

butterworthtom

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#65 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 01, 2010, 10:35:46 pm
It was cold today. The snow was still very much in fine form, there was still 8ft left beneath 3 blind and it was freezing today so I don't expect it will change. I think weather is supposed to be bad tomorrow though.

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#66 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 01, 2010, 10:55:35 pm
Technically snow as a weather phenomenon is just an extreme of good conditions.

Amen to that. Although someone should tell Nige:



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#67 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 02, 2010, 08:22:14 am
Jim, its four weeks today since it snowed. I reckon it'll hang on for you a few days yet. Hope the yoot's okay, is he big enough to join Ninky-nonk at the crag yet?

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#68 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 02, 2010, 02:02:05 pm
Snow update - me and Somebody's Fool checked out Marble Wall and beyond. There are some massive drifts up here! We highballed Goosey Goosey Gander and pitch 1 of Nectar. GGG is still a solo once the hard bit is over though, so mind out. P1 of Nectar is totally safe, although totally nails (remember thinking this when I failed to lead it several months ago). Font 7a??? A good time to get on it without pissing off belayers!

There is potential to highball Turtle Power, Slap And Spittle, Hideous Hidare, Saltation, Good Clean Fun, Concept of Kinky, and Clubbing. The problem, as shown in the photo above of me on GCF, is that the snow is too high! All these will need a thaw/snow saw to reveal them. Marbellous and Mother of Pearl are both highball prospects though.

Jim

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#69 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 02, 2010, 02:08:18 pm
yoot is ok. going to be in for a few more days. hopefully going to get out this afternoon and tomorrow. certainly got to be better than sitting in a hospital

SA Chris

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#70 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 02, 2010, 02:17:32 pm
bergshrunds on Stanage, would love to be there to see this.

Paul B

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#71 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 02, 2010, 02:43:33 pm
yoot is ok. going to be in for a few more days. hopefully going to get out this afternoon and tomorrow. certainly got to be better than sitting in a hospital

I might pop out tomorrow morning Jim. Is Big Air still filled in?

SA Chris

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#72 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 02, 2010, 02:57:46 pm
Make sure your medical insurance is up to date.

Bonjoy

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#73 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 02, 2010, 02:58:30 pm
Not much left of the Big Air landing on Sat. I'd imagine it'll be little or no safer than it's default state after today and tomos predicted weather. You'd be better off on stuff with deep snow under it. See JBs blog for best options.

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#74 Re: hard grit, soft snow...
February 02, 2010, 03:00:26 pm
shit weather out in the hope valley, mirky drizzle and low cloud.

Probably won't dry out tomorrow, although I'd love ot be wrong about that.


 

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