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Stacked routes relative grade (Read 5424 times)

Link

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Stacked routes relative grade
January 15, 2010, 08:58:11 am
If I did a 10m 7a twice, what grade would this get? and if I did three times?

Is there a general correlation relative to stacking a route and does this apply directly throughout the grading system?

dave

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#1 Re: Stacked routes relative grade
January 15, 2010, 09:06:02 am
If I did a 10m 7a twice, what grade would this get?

7a.

and if I did three times?

still 7a.

Bonjoy

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#2 Re: Stacked routes relative grade
January 15, 2010, 09:32:59 am
If I eat an apple twice, what flavour is it? And what about three times?

dobbin

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#3 Re: Stacked routes relative grade
January 15, 2010, 09:58:46 am
If I have a shit, and then a wee, and then another shit - will I be 8 stone?

Jaspersharpe

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#4 Re: Stacked routes relative grade
January 15, 2010, 09:59:46 am
No you'll still be a fat cunt.

Fiend goes to McDonalds and orders a Big Mac Meal with strawberry milkshake and a Filet-o-fish (for his wife). How much change does he get from a £20 note? And how about if it's a Thursday?

Johnny Brown

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#5 Re: Stacked routes relative grade
January 15, 2010, 10:10:25 am
What if I did an 8A, and then an E8? E10?

magpie

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#6 Re: Stacked routes relative grade
January 15, 2010, 10:20:33 am
I love you lot.  :lol:


lagerstarfish

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#7 Re: Stacked routes relative grade
January 15, 2010, 10:31:30 am
If I did a 10m 7a twice, what grade would this get?

It would be as hard as doing a 7a+ if it was wasn't too cruxy and there wasn't a rest.

This always feels unfair until you can climb a couple of grades harder than the grade of the route that you are stacking - then it feels spot on.

If you try to claim any grade harder than the grade of the route that is stacked (7a in your case) then you will laughed at and given a wedgie. See above for more details.


SA Chris

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#8 Re: Stacked routes relative grade
January 15, 2010, 11:46:16 am
If I did a 10m 7a twice, what grade would this get? and if I did three times?

You would get a log pile.

Link

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#9 Re: Stacked routes relative grade
January 15, 2010, 12:10:50 pm
Thanks Lagers, that's more along the lines of what i was after.

Link (well and truly wedgie'd)


cofe

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#10 Re: Stacked routes relative grade
January 15, 2010, 12:13:58 pm
What if I did an 8A, and then an E8? E10?

I'd question your vision. are you blind?

magpie

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#11 Re: Stacked routes relative grade
January 15, 2010, 12:21:31 pm
Link (well and truly wedgie'd)
Poor Link.  :hug: 

But if you'd lurked first, like Dob said, you would have know this was the inevitable result of the thread.  ;)

Norton Sharley

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#12 Re: Stacked routes relative grade
January 15, 2010, 01:15:33 pm
If I did a 10m 7a twice, what grade would this get? and if I did three times?

Is there a general correlation relative to stacking a route and does this apply directly throughout the grading system?

Do you frequent the Foundry often and is your real name Keith?

Jim

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#13 Re: Stacked routes relative grade
January 15, 2010, 03:11:21 pm
What if I did an 8A, and then an E8? E10?

I'd question your vision. are you blind?
Took the words right out of my mouth. Sheer genius

Link

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#14 Re: Stacked routes relative grade
January 17, 2010, 12:13:40 am
I am planning a euro sport trip in the spring and trying to focus some training towards 20 - 30m routes by emulating a long (30m) 7b.

There are no sport routes longer than 15m within 100 miles of where I live. I have never had the opportunity to climb a sport route longer than 15m (soon to change) and my local indoor options are 15m and 10m.

Just looking some some advice.

Link

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#15 Re: Stacked routes relative grade
January 17, 2010, 01:12:58 pm
Fair enough. I'd say doing laps on something or even climbing up then down without getting off is a reasonable way to train for a long route on a short route. I shouldn't worry too much about what grade said link might add up to though, firstly because as long as you are doing a suitable length of climbing and getting suitably pumped the grade isn't a big issue and secondly because there are too many variables to make an accurate guess anyway. Personally I think learning to efficiently use marginal rests is very important for long routes, especially for onsighting. You could do that on a short route by ignoring good rests but trying to shake out in marginal positions instead.

PS. 30m is actually quite short as single pitch euro stamina fests go!

Paul B

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#16 Re: Stacked routes relative grade
January 17, 2010, 09:08:18 pm
Personally I think learning to efficiently use marginal rests is very important for long routes, especially for onsighting. You could do that on a short route by ignoring good rests but trying to shake out in marginal positions instead.

PS. 30m is actually quite short as single pitch euro stamina fests go!
[/quote

I'd agree, and getting used to retreating back to said rests after working out what needs doing higher. By the end of my trip I was significantly fitter than ever. Being able to recover well on poor holds feels incredible. Maybe find some rest(ish) places and take the time to shake out etc. Spend loads of time on the wall.

Nibile

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#17 Re: Stacked routes relative grade
January 17, 2010, 09:45:36 pm
i'd say do laps on the hardest route. maybe also some added weight could do. don't forget that a good dose of power is always welcome also for endurance climbing.

Link

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#18 Re: Stacked routes relative grade
January 19, 2010, 08:50:38 am
That's excellent! thanks alot guys.

 

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