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Top 10 USA bouldering spots (Read 13675 times)

RamonUK

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Top 10 USA bouldering spots
September 30, 2009, 05:28:45 pm
I'm doing a 2 or 3 month trip around US, mainly traveling and bouldering along the way. I'd like to know what the must-go places be. So far I have in my list Bishop, Hueco, Joe's Valley, Yosemite, Lake Thoe and maybe Joshua tree. The trip starts beginning of May in west coast and finishing sometime in July.

Thanks a million for any beta

Ramon

Doylo

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#1 Re: Top 10 USA bouldering spots
September 30, 2009, 05:34:05 pm
Theres loads in Colorado to go at. I haven't been to the stuff around Boulder (mt evans, RMNP etc...) but i'd love to go. Wud defo be on my list especially at the time of year your going. Will be getting very sweaty in the other places you mentioned (i.e. forget Hueco)

A Jooser

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#2 Re: Top 10 USA bouldering spots
September 30, 2009, 06:50:18 pm
Ibex in western Utah is really good and well situated for a stop-off if travelling between Joe’s Valley and Bishop. It’s definitely the middle of nowhere but I enjoyed it more than Joe’s.

RamonUK

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#3 Re: Top 10 USA bouldering spots
October 01, 2009, 11:34:50 am
I haven't heard of Wud, but will check it out. Yes I suppose Hueco is out at that time of the year. So so far I've got:

Yosemite
Joe's Valley
Ibex
Bishop
Colorado (RMNP...)
Wud?
Lake Tahoe

SA Chris

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#4 Re: Top 10 USA bouldering spots
October 01, 2009, 12:03:43 pm
Wud is not a place, it's just Doylo's shit spelling for "would"! :)

May - July is going to be pretty warm. The Bend boulders near Moab in Utah look good, but not actually climbed on them, we passed through in mid April and it was already too hot to do anything hard.

Sherman's Stone Crusade is the classic guide, but I had a browse of this when I was last there
http://www.countrymanpress.com/titles/Boulderi1.html and it looks quite useful.

If, as per on UKC, you are thinking of New England as well, for a 3 month trip you are stretching yourself a bit already? Might be worth thinking of some spots a bit further North for July - Some nice looking stuff on N California coast, but I don't think there is much of it. Sherman mentions spots in Wyoming Idaho and oregon, but got no experience of them myself.

Jaspersharpe

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#5 Re: Top 10 USA bouldering spots
October 01, 2009, 12:06:57 pm
Wud is not a place, it's just Doylo's shit spelling for "would"! :)

RFLO

Doylo

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#6 Re: Top 10 USA bouldering spots
October 01, 2009, 12:16:47 pm
I thought Wud was mega, good spread through the grades and dancing girls on the top of every boulder

SA Chris

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#7 Re: Top 10 USA bouldering spots
October 01, 2009, 12:18:45 pm
You wud say that. You crazy wee textspeaker you.

Doylo

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#8 Re: Top 10 USA bouldering spots
October 01, 2009, 12:51:13 pm
sorry everyone, bad habit i know

Adam Lincoln

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#9 Re: Top 10 USA bouldering spots
October 02, 2009, 11:19:32 am
Hey Ramon. You are not going at the best time for bouldering really. Still, you will be able to get stuff done at most venues, if you time your climbing well. I wouldn't bother with Hueco though at that time of year. Its going to be hot hot hot, but also it is a bit of a way out from the rest of the stuff. Save it for a trip in its own right.

You have my email, drop me a line if you need more info.

a dense loner

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#10 Re: Top 10 USA bouldering spots
October 03, 2009, 11:45:50 am
yep, if you want big numbers without big effort adam's the man to talk to. he knows chris sharma as well :P

ibex good? wtf?

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#11 Re: Top 10 USA bouldering spots
January 17, 2010, 01:33:13 pm
that's basically the worst time for a bouldering trip.  try squamish and the index area of washington.  there was a good article about bouldering in the spokane area in a recent rock and ice.  probably too hot for most of the places on your list.  in cali there is black mountain and the tram area (as seen in Rampage), they're good because they are at 7,000 feet or so so they stay cooler in the summer.  good luck.

Rabies

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#12 Re: Top 10 USA bouldering spots
January 18, 2010, 02:21:33 pm
I would stay as far north as possible for the conditions.  It depends what you want really though. If you're not too bothered about pushing yourself on harder/friction dependent stuff it won't matter as much.  I personally wouldn't go further south than Bishop as it will be too hot.  Squamish and Northern California would be better.  There are two separate guidebooks covering Northern California/Lake Tahoe with plenty of stuff to go at, also stuff in Idaho/Washington too.  You could get lucky with conditions around San Francisco depending on the month.  Not sure about Black Mountain/tramway area as they were hot when I was in the US in October so goodness knows what they are like in the heat of summer.  Also forget Big Bend boulders near Moab, they will be unbearable in the heat of summer but they are good fun

Hope this helps

hairich

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#13 Re: Top 10 USA bouldering spots
January 18, 2010, 10:50:07 pm
at that time of year forget all but rmnp and tramway and blackmountain.everywhere else will be hotter than the sun

Adam Lincoln

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#14 Re: Top 10 USA bouldering spots
January 18, 2010, 10:58:23 pm
at that time of year forget all but rmnp and tramway and blackmountain.everywhere else will be hotter than the sun

And Leavenworth. Oh and Gold Bar.

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#15 Re: Top 10 USA bouldering spots
January 24, 2010, 07:16:28 pm
I went to Hueco on 5th July and yes it was hot, really hot but the climbing in the shade was fine (the rocks get quite cold during the night) until about mid day.

Having said that we were in the area for a 4th July party and it was when the access restrictions were being discussed so we though get there while you can.


 

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