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British standards shit? (Stevie Haston's post) (Read 23653 times)

Jim

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I hate it when people leave their dead pets at the crag

saltbeef

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I hate it when people leave their dead pets at the crag


no you don't. it gives you something to eat/fuck in between rest problems

slackline

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I hate it when people leave their dead pets at the crag

Sorry Jim, this one was very much alive (just asleep at the time the picture was taken).

Just realised I have a picture of a large cave we passed on the way to Cala Luna.  Couldn't see any tat/bolts from where we were, and certainly no chalk.  The whole gorge we walked along looked to have very few developed lines, but tons of potential...


clm

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I hate it when people leave their dead pets at the crag

Ditto.


moose

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Okay, my own punterish leanings are probably no guide to the preferences of UK-wads abroad,  but perhaps the preference for overseas "stamina fests" is more to do with what's fun and looks good than what you're necessarily suited to? 

Myself, given long-term opportunity, I climb my hardest grades on short, intense and crimpy boulder problems that suit a technical, static style.  Yet, on holiday, I gravitate to the opposite: lengthy steepness, hurling myself between jugs with abandon.  It's because when I'm on holiday, I'm on holiday, not at work.  Of course I want a nice ticklist, but mainly I want to have fun: onsighting lots of different stuff and not risking valuable time on things that might need beta and a very patient belayer to red-point.  And, at least in the areas I've climbed, the steep juggy routes seem most amenable to quickly bagging lots of 3 star classics.  Such climbs are not necessarily easier, but their difficulties are mostly physical: the sequences are fairly obvious and the conviction born of an iminent return to the UK seems to compensate for a lack of native beta.  Also... the look of those long steep routes just gives me the mojo to try them, regardless of what years in the UK have suited me to: a massive orange-streaked, tufa-strewn overhang just looks a lot sexier than 8m of vertical "scoop-of-death" crimpiness of the equivalent grade.

Franco

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I never get the 'brits are shit argument'.

Sport climbing is not our main past time in the UK. If you compare the world sport limits- F9b? with the current trad limmits- F8c+ in a death situation on a damp mountain crag; then there really isn't much in it. Admittedly there are fewer people operating at a higher level, but then there are far less people and many climbers are rightly not obsessed with being super good- just doing epic lines.

 

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