Like any chronic injury though, you probably have a lot of scar tissue?
an accupuncture session (don't know how much effect this had really)
Tendonitis or tendonosis?Apparently there is a difference. I have fought with it intermittently over my later climbing career, but have been doing the twisty arm stretch as per the article below whenever I feel it flaring up, and it seems to bring it back under control. Like any chronic injury though, you probably have a lot of scar tissue?http://www.athlon.com.au/articles.htmsee - dodgy elbows article.PS usual disclaimers apply - I know squat about medicine etc.
Steer clear of fingerboards!Use other devices to train your grip in various ways, I was doing 1-2 sessions a week for a couple of months indoors with no problems, 1 finger-board session the other night has put me out for a week, and it didn't even feel like I was trying that hard!
Hmm... Which thread to resurrect?lI'm now at the point of starting to up the training intensity again and don't really know how best to fit the eccentric curls into the training.
That's been my problem as well. Conclusion so far. You have to keep doing them. Same day as climbing is a baaad idea.Interesting to hear the comments on deep-tissue massage. Now I just have to persuade the missus to find time among the paying clients to fit me in.
I've also come to the conclusion that I need to do the exercises often - I think the Atlon article recommends six days per week. Obviously to do this at some point I have to do the exercises on the same day as climbing. Michal's sequence sounds like a good plan, though a 'hard session' is a bit beyond me at the mo...
From " a hard session is beyond me" I take it you're still at the pain stage.My physio advised 3 sets of eccentric wrist curls twice a day when I was at that stage with a really light weight. Clearly this is nothing to do with strengthening. In fact I suspect it's just to keep you so busy you haven't got time to climb :-)However having paid for physio I did it & it worked. As I returned gradually to climbing she said NOT to do it on climbing days.
As a long term sufferer of Tendonitis (nearly 10 years now)...
I have had what I believe to be brachialis tendonitus since I restarted climbing last year (diffuse pain that is difficult to locate the exact centre of, with accompaning nausea if I don't stop) this is entirely self-diagnosed with help from Dave Mcleod's blog. This condition seems to become worse with pushing and squeezing type movements (font is murder).
physio shows some benefits initially but at 52 week follow-up there is no difference when compared to watch and wait policy
Quote from: tim palmer on January 24, 2010, 11:31:40 pm physio shows some benefits initially but at 52 week follow-up there is no difference when compared to watch and wait policyIn fairness, I would expect any injury, that physio could address, to heal if I stopped aggravating it for 52 weeks! What I hope to get from a physio is the ability to get back to climbing faster & (hopefully) a reduced chance of re-occurrence.
Is it possible that the reputation (among climbers) of the injury-proofing effect of antagonist training is this incidental strengthening of the shoulder stabilisers (when donne with the correct form)?
It'd be interesting to know if any of the more waif-like members of the board .... Dense
I think the 'reputation' of any 'antagonist' exercises stems from misguided folks that think doing 50 pressups a day is going to save them from tendonitis.
It'd be interesting to know if any of the more waif-like members of the board have ever suffered from elbow issues: Paul, Sausage, Dense etc? I reckon Wobble and to a slightly lesser extent Messrs Clifford and Birch of of a body type which will be less susceptible to elbow problems in the first place.
I'm a fan of "turkish get ups" .....
It'd be interesting to know if any of the more waif-like members of the board have ever suffered from elbow issues: Paul, Sausage, Dense etc?
Climb more = elbows and shoulders get out of balance, need to climb less to let 'elbows catch up with climbing'?
I was told that the problem is that if your shoulder is not working right, it is not helping your elbow as much as it should when you climb, thus more load goes through your elbow leading to the tendonitis. I imagine the people who crank hard regularly without injury have shoulders that have naturally co-operated.
Sorry I hadn't looked in this thread. Basically because I've never had any trouble ps - I'm skinnier than him I bet.