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Another Japanese 8c goes up (Read 22630 times)

dave

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#50 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 09, 2003, 11:07:41 am
err, don't think so, i've only watched as far as the end of the mornal footage, not the parthain/countdown bit, so unless its on the end....

i've some consumed on another vidyo already though i fink. its got some punter doing benign lives at the start.

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#51 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 09, 2003, 11:13:09 am
Quote from: "dave"
err, don't think so, i've only watched as far as the end of the mornal footage, not the parthain/countdown bit, so unless its on the end....

i've some consumed on another vidyo already though i fink. its got some punter doing benign lives at the start.


Aye, the pussy has a tied in spotted!

 :roll:

ian h

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#52 another jap 8c goes up
December 09, 2003, 03:38:40 pm
rons slab next to crescent arete.

what year did he actually do that/ how old is the prob.

please dont tell me he did it in an old pair of beat up fires, with no mat/spotterz :roll:

Adam Lincoln

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#53 Re: another jap 8c goes up
December 09, 2003, 03:39:50 pm
Quote from: "ian h"
rons slab next to crescent arete.

what year did he actually do that/ how old is the prob.

please dont tell me he did it in an old pair of beat up fires, with no mat/spotterz :roll:


Probably!

Its now harder though since the pebble you use to rock over onto has broke off. Still doable though, at around the same grade

a dense loner

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#54 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 11, 2003, 08:03:53 am
grades, grades, grades. how interesting?
nic - i think basic training is hard for 7c, how do u do it? but then again i find the first move of miles slab hard. my knees r somewhat close to useless when it comes to pushing from below 90 degrees tho.
i have read in the latest ote that ready brek gets 7c+, n i seem 2 remember a big deal on this very forum when james did it, highball v11 was even suggested. i thought E3 6a. we'll get this out of the way now tho, i didn't do it!!!, but this was cos i pulled my back out at work a few days b4. i dropped off from the move popping to the jug, cos i was worried if i missed it i would land quite unlike a cat. for those that don't know, the route/problem is over at this point. for those of u that say i can't grade it bcoz i didn't do the 5a pop with a fucked back u r mistaken.
obviously i want peoples rants on this. this is an example of why i think that u can't grade a problem unless u've done it is absolute rubbish.
as far as i am aware rons slab ,left of crescent makes use of the pockets by stretching rightwards n straight up hasn't been done.

james

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#55 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 11, 2003, 08:07:34 am
As far as I know rons slab has never been done from the floor.  It has been done from a ledge on the left and the right but never from the floor.
Smoked Salmon it not that hard, I thought E7 7a. There is also my slab at the roaches on the big boulder, the one that was a font 8a+ project, not sure what it is because I am crap at grading although it aint 8a+
Cheers

James

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#56 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 11, 2003, 08:14:42 am
font 8a is v11. unless ure in japan!  :lol:

pressure drop is left of satin. would look a better line with more chalk on, hint.

what is snatch? tho i remember gettin annoyed by brad pitts accent.

luckily i am off today n it is pissin down.

jim ~ i will gladly meet u at hobson moor n give u a tour of some class problems that don't appear on any maps. if it has stopped rainin i will be there from about 2 today. back wall will still be dry!

nik at work

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#57 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 11, 2003, 11:10:41 am
Snatch is a highball at Denham quarry, lancs.
E5 7a or V10/11 depending on how many mats you have (or whether or not your wearing baggy trousers and a beanie) I think there is a link to a topo further back in this thread...

James good effort on the slab, like you say I can't imagine it is 8a+ but given my state of senility and lack of understanding of bouldering grades who knows?

As to how I did basic training ummmm, quickly is probably the best description? To be honest I really don't know but I seem to remember doing a mantle-y type move facing leftwards then bringing my left foot up to that slopy break thing. Then I think I was undercutting with my left hand near my left foot and my right hand went up to an impossible small and crap tiny tiny tiny little hold. Stand up on the left foot and then waltz merrily on.... Does that make any sense?

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#58 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 11, 2003, 11:28:17 am
Quote from: "nik at work"
Snatch is a highball at Denham quarry, lancs.
E5 7a or V10/11 depending on how many mats you have (or whether or not your wearing baggy trousers and a beanie)

 :shock:  Now that is a Cocktalk comment  :shock:

nik at work

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#59 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 11, 2003, 11:37:32 am
Damn spotted.
Is this better.
Yo, ma dog Snatch is a bo highball at Denham. Some homies think it's 'E5 7a' but they is all beetches. Bling V10/11 but bring a big pad hommie. Street selecta?!

dave

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#60 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 11, 2003, 11:40:11 am
Now you're speaking my language.

word.

a dense loner

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#61 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 11, 2003, 11:41:41 am
nic, that makes sense. tho i do everything to the right. this may be why i find it hard. will c if your way is less stressful to an old mans joints.
where is this slab at the roaches james? is it one inch punch?

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#62 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 11, 2003, 12:05:50 pm
Monoblock at Pex is given V10 and is a slab-very hard it is too. Tiny holds.

a dense loner

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#63 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 11, 2003, 05:28:39 pm
went to pex once. looked at monoblock, looks quality. only had one pad and impatient woman tho.

Jim

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#64 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 11, 2003, 05:53:38 pm
Tried to look at monoblock last time I was at pex but couldn't see it :lol:

Quote from: "a dense loner"
jim ~ i will gladly meet u at hobson moor n give u a tour of some class problems that don't appear on any maps. if it has stopped rainin i will be there from about 2 today. back wall will still be dry!


Cheers, am on nights and have been asleep today. Send us a pm next time your going down

 

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