UKBouldering.com

Another Japanese 8c goes up (Read 22627 times)

dave

  • Guest
#25 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 02, 2003, 03:19:15 pm
Quote from: "Scouse D"
It's also a bit odd how many repeats it's had for supposedly one of the hardest problems in the world, I wonder why noone has had the guts to downgrade it.


Probably cuz they'd not have done an 8c then - if it were me i'd take the tick and run.

Monobloc is V10 innit - surely we got harder than that?

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3589
  • Karma: +312/-2
#26 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 02, 2003, 03:48:33 pm
Dunno the grade of monobloc - only the reputation which seems to be that it is nails.

V10 is still pretty hard. I'm having trouble thinking of a slab that is harder than that. I think the slab at denham is V10/11 (but that is probably a slabby wall rather than a true slab) Topo here as my description was pants:-
http://www.nwbouldering.co.uk/Topos/topopage1.pdf
Other than that I'm having trouble thinking of a slab harder than V10 in the UK, or am I just being thick?
Any suggestions?
(NOTE Work hard and play hard are not slabs)

dave

  • Guest
#27 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 02, 2003, 03:51:26 pm
what about no-pebble wall at caley? V10? or Terry?

dave

  • Guest
#28 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 02, 2003, 03:54:02 pm
also what about the direct start to downhill racer?

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3589
  • Karma: +312/-2
#29 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 02, 2003, 03:58:17 pm
Sorry I'm a bit thick when it comes to yorkshire bouldering. What is Terry?

Hope to improve my Yorkshire knowledge now that I live there and all that....

Ooo, just thought of another one is that "Gaz stole my pebble" or summat like that V10 on the small smart wall at Bridestones? And sticking with Bridestones does anyone know if that project slab mentioned in the yorks boouldering guide a couple of buttresses to the right of small smart wall has been done? And the slab left of Jerrys arete? But now I'm getting back on to projects....

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3589
  • Karma: +312/-2
#30 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 02, 2003, 04:01:19 pm
Direct start to downhill racer is not even nearly V10. The hardest slab thing on the Joes slab slab is significantly harder and that is only V9 (I think?).
Keep 'em coming though...

Dave do you still want the video by the way or have you sourced an alternative copy?

dave

  • Guest
#31 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 02, 2003, 04:04:01 pm
terry is this kind ill high blank slab/wall thing that sort of climbs to meet a  rampline, its on the buttress between The Ripper and Syrett's Saunter. I think its V10 or summert like that, but looks ridiculous. jordan did it a few weeks back i think. i'm sure no pebble wall is gin V10 in the YGBG, but hey, so is The Keel......nuff sed. :wink:

dave

  • Guest
#32 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 02, 2003, 04:07:05 pm
Quote from: "nik at work"
Dave do you still want the video by the way or have you sourced an alternative copy?


if you've still got it, then yeah, fo' sure. I was almost thinking VHS would be obselete before i saw a copy of this!

i belive you know my main man JR (john roberts) so like if you see him before you see me or owt anytime he'll get it to me i'm sure. anyroad with any luck i'll bump into you at a crag sometime, you'd think. cheers

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#33 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 02, 2003, 06:06:29 pm
terry is v10 and not a slab imo, i've seen it done and looks way cool. Can do some of the moves at the start but its quite highball as well

ian h

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 537
  • Karma: +1/-0
#34 another jap 8c
December 02, 2003, 09:35:14 pm
is that mo overfield prob at millstone bohemium groove a slab?

mozzer

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 143
  • Karma: +0/-0
#35 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 02, 2003, 10:44:32 pm
Think its pretty much vertical to be honest. maybe slight slab but he definately pulls down!

Dunno why he doesn tuse the arete though... make it about V2...

dave

  • Guest
#36 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 02, 2003, 10:46:28 pm
Quote from: "mozzer"
Dunno why he doesn tuse the arete though... make it about V2...


the answers in the question....say what you see.....its good but its not right.

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#37 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 03, 2003, 02:00:50 am
its time for the ready money round

Bubba

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 15367
  • Karma: +286/-6
#38 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 06, 2003, 05:58:02 pm
Piccy of one of the new Japanese 8Cs


a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#39 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 07, 2003, 12:31:49 pm
so, nobodys any the wiser about hard slabs then. there are hard lines that haven't been done everywhere, these don't count. work hard is not in any way a slab, neither is walk on by. le denmats son gave a slab glorious font 8b+, which you'd think he deliberated for a bit b4 coming out with such a grade, this was downgraded by the second ascentioned to 7c+. u will find it hard to get anything harder than golden feet while man still walks on two legs. so these slabs in japan then, yeh right.

hard slabs then -
b9 at burbage south
pressure drop
toyboy, as a boulder prob
things at pex hill

thats all i can think of in the peak. can't comment about anywhere else reliably.

mark

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 576
  • Karma: +20/-0
#40 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 07, 2003, 07:35:45 pm
Got a bit curious about what an 8c slab might look like (not that you'd be able to tell from pics).

Came across this account of the first ascent of Tokio Muroi's first claimed 8c: http://www.bouldering.net/japan/closeup/5dan/5dan.html Definitely a bit of a slab with some arete thrown in.

Looks like there's a vid of it too: http://www.pureweb.jp/~ignius/video/top.htm# Another pic of the 8c on the cover. Fantastic looking piece of rock. Anyone been to Ogawayama?

mark

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 576
  • Karma: +20/-0
#41 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 07, 2003, 07:37:39 pm
Here are the pics themselves...





a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#42 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 08, 2003, 08:53:57 pm
that photo has put my mind at rest anyway. font 8c if the rock is marble! i actually sent my last message half way down the first page. why has it only just come out now blubba, am i being useless again? :? shirleys is font 7c, i think, basic training at hobson moor 7c, strange moves for a slab indeed. can't think of any slab harder than 7c+ either, only one i know at this grade is pressure drop, i know there are others but can't think. do 8a slabs exist in britain? i am intrigued now. just think of it, at least 2 slabs in japan 5 grades harder than the best we have to offer. wot punters we are. :cry:

Bubba

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 15367
  • Karma: +286/-6
#43 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 08, 2003, 08:59:23 pm
Quote from: "a dense loner"
i actually sent my last message half way down the first page.

No idea why that's happened, not seen it before but I doubt it's anything you did.

Wouldn't mind a watch of that video - there's another Japanese video of some guy doing lots of hard stuff in the Peak I'd like to see, but never seen it on sale.

dobbin

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3708
  • Karma: +147/-9
  • Buoux 7a
#44 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 08, 2003, 09:01:01 pm
Quote from: "a dense loner"
basic training at hobson moor 7c


Thats not in the guide is it?

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#45 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 08, 2003, 09:24:40 pm
think it's in the guide but it goes under the guise of a dirty route at E5 6c. still one of the best laughs i've had. if it's not in guide it's the obvious looking thing to the left of, o my god i've forgot the name o my god, ok to the right of parkers eliminate just round the corner. sorry thats the worst description i've ever given. straight up wall. was there today as well!! only been goin there 8 days a week for past 3 years. shit, imagine the damage i could do to my memory if i took drugs!

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#46 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 09, 2003, 06:52:23 am
Where is this prob at hobson moor then. Don't know any route names cos I don't climb them. Hobson moors my 'local' so any info on any other problems would be most welcome cos it gets a bit boring doing the same old problems all the time

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3589
  • Karma: +312/-2
#47 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 09, 2003, 10:53:33 am
Basic Training is a route on the narrow face just round the arete right of the classic crack (Parkers or summat). It is given E5 6c but the boulder problem start is a classic nasty. Trouble is it ain't that hard if you're tall, and is nowhere near font 7c even if you're short.
What is Font 8a in V grades? (I get confused)
Toughies I can think of are (which haven't previously being mentioned):
Rons slab on the pebble - not that bad really
Rons slab left of crescent arete - possible 8a contender?
Ummm thats about it.....

I think the hardest boulder prob slab is either Rons slab or snatch - although snatch could be a wall rather than a slab.

Don't know anything about pressure drop, is the line any good?

dave

  • Guest
#48 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 09, 2003, 10:58:19 am
i think its more of a "gap" than a "line".

P.S. the video is excellent, worth the wait - cheers!

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3589
  • Karma: +312/-2
#49 Another Japanese 8c goes up
December 09, 2003, 11:00:20 am
Glad you like it.
Does it have consumed on it?

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal