Frogsmouth Quarry Restoration (Read 26332 times)

Tris · December 02, 2009, 12:35:36 pm

Following the NW Area BMC meeting last night, it looks like Frogsmouth Quarry in Runcorn will finally get restored and re-equipped.

This would make a great sport climbing venue for the North West. (20 routes in the F6a-F6c+ range and 13 routes in the F7a-F7c range) There are also a few trad routes.

The re-equipping/bolting proposal was very positively received with the overwhelming majority (if not everyone) in favour. It is estimated that it would cost around £800 in hardware to equip the quarry. The BMC have said they would be able to contribute some (if not all) of the funding.

I have created a Wiki to keep people up to date with what's going on http://cheshireclimbing.wetpaint.com/. Please feel free to contribute to the Wiki.

A bolt fund will also hopefully be created in the near future and details of this and how to donate will be posted on the Wiki.

Big thanks to Goi Ashmore for his time and effort in getting this moving.

Scouse D · December 02, 2009, 01:41:34 pm

Sounds great. My first experience of bolted climbing was at Frogsmouth ,which is probably why it took me another 15 years to try it again. Seem to remember one route being protected by an ice screw...

Tris · December 03, 2009, 09:40:00 am

I believe the ice screw is still there

BenF · December 03, 2009, 12:30:13 pm

Yup, the ice screw was still there last time I looked, probably the best bit of protection there these days.

Tris · December 05, 2009, 10:10:20 am

Initial feedback is that work is likely to start on this early in the new year.

Andy F · December 06, 2009, 07:18:40 pm

Talking to Mark Hounslea at the wall today he said they're going with spiral glue-ins as the mechanical bolts came out rather easily

. It'll be a nice place to get some training in over the summer

Tris · December 07, 2009, 08:45:00 am

Quote from: Andy F on December 06, 2009, 07:18:40 pm

Talking to Mark Hounslea at the wall today he said they're going with spiral glue-ins as the mechanical bolts came out rather easily . It'll be a nice place to get some training in over the summer

Yeah - that's right, these ones from Jim Titt will be used (if you look on the wiki there are the results of the strength testing if you are interested in that kind of thing

)

Tris · December 24, 2009, 02:58:38 pm

Update - for anyone that is interested in helping with the restoration, the work will start on Sunday February 7th 2010.

Full details are on the wiki here:

http://cheshireclimbing.wetpaint.com/page/BMC+Working+Day+2010

Tris · February 01, 2010, 09:48:58 am

Just a reminder that the restoration starts this Sunday at 10am. If anyone is interested in helping out, please come down - tea & cake will be provided...

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3490

Tris · April 21, 2010, 01:58:14 pm

The bolting project/workshop starts this Sunday 25th April at 10am, please come and help out. If anyone is interested in learning how to bolt, now is your chance.... everyone welcome (sorry no cakes this time)...

Directions and more information here:

http://cheshireclimbing.wetpaint.com/page/Frogsmouth+Quarry

Richie Crouch · April 21, 2010, 03:32:30 pm

I've got a box of charity money towards the rebolting in the V12 shop @ Awesome Walls.

Let me know if you want to pick it up and pass it on to whoever is supplying the bolts or if I can cash it and sort a cheque out for you.

I've got to work all weekend sadly so can't help out on the day I'm afraid

Tris · April 21, 2010, 04:13:56 pm

Hi Richie - that's superb!!! Thank you very much for the support

A lot of the funding for the bolting is coming from the BMC, I'm just getting clarification from them about where these very kind donations should go to and will let you know asap...

Cheers

Tris

BenF · April 21, 2010, 05:51:21 pm

Quote from: Richie Crouch on April 21, 2010, 03:32:30 pm

I've got a box of charity money towards the rebolting in the V12 shop @ Awesome Walls.

I presumed you were spending that cash on down-toe rock shoes Rich? I thought the label was just a cover. Obviously I donated generously to help you out so I want my money back now I know it's going on bolts...

Richie Crouch · April 21, 2010, 06:11:27 pm

We'll be starting up a collection for floodlights at Parisella's next week, so I'm sure you won't mind me rolling your donation over to an equally worthy cause Ben

Tris · April 25, 2010, 05:22:54 pm

7 routes were bolted and had lower-off's installed today with more routes to get done in the week. Click here for details of the routes that have been restored.

Thanks to everyone for their hard work today...

andy popp · April 25, 2010, 08:36:57 pm

Brilliant effort everyone. Sorry I couldn't make it, family responsibilities got in the way.

SpanishJuan · April 27, 2010, 10:23:42 am

Any other dates planned?
missed the last note. So I'm posting to be fed updates in future!

Tris · April 27, 2010, 11:28:13 am

I think a few people are heading down on Thursday (daytime) to install some more lower-off's and add the last few bolts. Unfortunately I can't make it due to having a day job

The next lot of bolts (120) are being ordered this week and then as soon as they arrive a new date for the install of these will be arranged, I will update the thread/wiki when it is known.

Cheers

Tris

Tris · May 20, 2010, 05:01:13 pm

The next main bolting event is happening on Sunday 20th June. Hopefully after this the crag restoration should be close to complete!

Please come down and join in - everyone is welcome (please make sure to wear old clothes). A visit to the pub for chips/beer is planned at the end of the day.

Directions here:

http://cheshireclimbing.wetpaint.com/page/Frogsmouth+Quarry

Tris · June 15, 2010, 10:54:01 am

Quote from: Tris on May 20, 2010, 05:01:13 pm

The next main bolting event is happening on Sunday 20th June. Hopefully after this the crag restoration should be close to complete!

Unfortunately the next set of bolts have not yet arrived from Germany so the work planned for this coming weekend has been postponed. The new date is now Sunday 18th July. I will update this thread with confirmation nearer the time...

Thanks

SpanishJuan · June 15, 2010, 11:31:02 am

Bugger

mrjonathanr · June 15, 2010, 09:29:04 pm

Quote from: Richie Crouch on April 21, 2010, 06:11:27 pm

We'll be starting up a collection for floodlights at Parisella's next week, so I'm sure you won't mind me rolling your donation over to an equally worthy cause Ben

Apropos nothing in particular, Troubat used to have massive halogens in front of the central cave, installed for the comp years ago (the first ever competition I believe). A bunch of us went on a road trip a few years later and were stunned to discover they switched on automatically at dusk - wa-hey!

So we just carried on climbing. We didn't know they switched off automatically at midnight. That was quite a surprise

Andy F · June 16, 2010, 09:35:16 am

Quote from: Tris on June 15, 2010, 10:54:01 am

Quote from: Tris on May 20, 2010, 05:01:13 pm
The next main bolting event is happening on Sunday 20th June. Hopefully after this the crag restoration should be close to complete!

Unfortunately the next set of bolts have not yet arrived from Germany

Thanks

Tsk, typical German shoddyness and lack of efficiency

SpanishJuan · June 16, 2010, 09:52:40 am

Quote from: Andy F on June 16, 2010, 09:35:16 am

Quote from: Tris on June 15, 2010, 10:54:01 am
Quote from: Tris on May 20, 2010, 05:01:13 pm
The next main bolting event is happening on Sunday 20th June. Hopefully after this the crag restoration should be close to complete!
Unfortunately the next set of bolts have not yet arrived from Germany
Thanks
Tsk, typical German shoddyness and lack of efficiency

Lost within the royal mail

Tris · June 16, 2010, 10:34:47 am

Quote from: Andy F on June 16, 2010, 09:35:16 am

Tsk, typical German shoddyness and lack of efficiency

Apologies - I am told the appropriate disciplinary actions have been taken...

andy popp · June 17, 2010, 03:34:18 pm

I hope that's not a real firing squad.

BenF · June 17, 2010, 03:36:57 pm

If it is, they look like they're a bunch of venture scouts executing two students.

Tris · July 01, 2010, 02:30:10 pm

Quote from: Tris on June 15, 2010, 10:54:01 am

Unfortunately the next set of bolts have not yet arrived from Germany so the work planned for this coming weekend has been postponed. The new date is now Sunday 18th July. I will update this thread with confirmation nearer the time...

Thanks

The bolts have now arrived from Germany, so the 18th is now confirmed - start time is 10am..

Everyone is welcome - remember to wear old clothes

Cheers

SpanishJuan · July 06, 2010, 10:12:12 am

Old clothes, check

Oldest I've got at the mo

Tris · July 16, 2010, 09:44:53 am

Just a reminder about the work this Sunday (18th).

Feel free to come down and help or admire SpanishJuan in all his glory

BenF · July 16, 2010, 12:19:30 pm

I'm hoping to make an appearance, although it has been pointed out to me that I've now arranged to do three different things on Sunday, at venues right across the NW and Wales. The weather should knock one of those on the head though, so hopefully I'll get down to sunny Runcorn. If I don't make it I promise to put in some time cleaning the crap/broken glass out of the otherwise lovely setting and scrubbing routes (that I want to climb obviously).

SpanishJuan · July 21, 2010, 10:25:46 am

unfortunately my wife decided to knacker her back early sunday morn and spend the day crying. gutted I couldn't make it as i'd spent ages squeezing into my work clothes

What are the plans with the clearance work that was carried out at the base of the crag? Do you think if the regrowth on the trees were cut back this winter (mainly the Acer pseudo ) and then treat the stump the rangers would mind? It won't reduce the Dryopteris affinis, Pteridium aquilinum etc.. but will ensure that the gap between the tree line and the crag is maintained (edge habitat is also more species rich)

Tris · July 21, 2010, 11:48:09 am

The park rangers cut the trees down at the base of the crag back in March. As you have noticed, the bracken has grown back quite quickly since then; but someone came on Sunday with a petrol strimmer and made the paths a bit more accessible.

If you do plan to cut down any trees, then please ask permission from the rangers first via 01928 560793.

I think the biggest problem is broken glass/bottles/litter to be honest - there seems to be a hell of a lot more of it around the bench/base of the crag. If people take a bin bag with them, it really helps - we filled up about 5 on Sunday, but didn't really make a dent...

Hopefully the next bolting/cleanup work will be on a Saturday in August (TBC).

SpanishJuan · July 21, 2010, 12:04:36 pm

Ta, will take dust pan and brush next visit

BenF · July 21, 2010, 12:27:05 pm

Quote from: Tris on July 21, 2010, 11:48:09 am

I think the biggest problem is broken glass/bottles/litter to be honest - there seems to be a hell of a lot more of it around the bench/base of the crag.

I agree, I'm going to head down next week and pick up as much as I can although I also agree its hard to make an impact upon the amount thats there right now.

SpanishJuan · July 21, 2010, 12:35:57 pm

maybe we could ask for a bottle bank to be installed...
On the plus side at least I haven't seen any sharps down there...

danm · July 21, 2010, 01:18:14 pm

Great effort to all concerned who turned up and got stuck in. Not as much could be glued as we wanted because the damp weather made it impossible to clean out all of the drill holes. Nonetheless a massive step was made towards finishing off the re-equiping, and a good deal of general tidying up was done too.

A lot of the bottles etc seemed to have been thrown off the top of the crag rather than littered from in the quarry. Ideally there would be a bottle bank and a sign warning of walkers and climbers below at the top, and a bin by the bench.

SpanishJuan · July 21, 2010, 02:06:45 pm

Would it be worth speaking to someone to see if any grants are available to assist in this kind of improvement? i'm sure there must be some suitable signs available

Good job done guy's

modified 14.12pm 21/07/10 as the image wasn't the right one

BenF · July 21, 2010, 02:07:35 pm

Quote from: danm on July 21, 2010, 01:18:14 pm

A lot of the bottles etc seemed to have been thrown off the top of the crag rather than littered from in the quarry.

I'd say 99% of the bottles have been thrown from the top.

A few weeks back friends of mine were spat at from above and had bottles dropped on them whilst climbing. Hopefully as the presence of climbers becomes more frequent there, this kind of behaviour will reduce.

youngy · July 22, 2010, 09:43:45 am

Or i reckon just send some of the scouse crew down!
sure that ginger one that works in v12 will scare them off with his cave tan

Richie Crouch · July 22, 2010, 10:26:31 am

Good shout Youngy... I believe giving scallies a beatdown is classed as cross training/antagonist exercise?

SpanishJuan · July 22, 2010, 10:32:27 am

If they all have dustpans and brushes and a bin bag each is that classed as training??

Oh I meant to say yesterday Tris, I was mentioning the cutting down of the trees \ coppicing. to try to ascertain the management rotation. I was hoping you guy's had knowledge of the management plan via the rangers. I Was hoping they'd be thining out the rest of the compartment but continue the clearance of the regrowth on the edge (close to the face).

Tris · July 22, 2010, 01:19:09 pm

Sorry - I have no idea what their plan is (if they have one)..

SpanishJuan · July 23, 2010, 09:42:58 am

Not to worry Tris. I guess a lot of the management plan is only about putting out fires on the heath area during summer holidays

meatball · August 11, 2010, 08:42:57 pm

Just wondering, would anybody in the know be able to shed some light as to which routes (or sector) have been bolted? Ta

Will Hunt · August 11, 2010, 09:13:07 pm

http://cheshireclimbing.wetpaint.com/page/Frogsmouth+Quarry

Chickety check it. Rough guide topos are on there as well.

meatball · August 11, 2010, 09:40:01 pm

I did, but didn't go to the bottom of the home page just went straight to the topo. Shoulda checked properly

Jim · August 23, 2010, 02:18:43 pm

went here yesterday with monolith, A truely superb job has been done and we had an excellent day.
Some of the holds are a little sandy and could really do with a bit of stone sealer or similar on them.
The routes with chains at the top and the thing like rams horns enabling you not to need to thread to strip the gear is first class.
Well done everyone involved, will be going back again soon (if it stops raining)

Johnny Brown · August 23, 2010, 03:35:14 pm

Nice Jim, you got a new harness then?

Jim · August 23, 2010, 03:44:48 pm

no, bought some quick draws instead.
found out that Tetlers harness is 2 years older than mine and has had a hell of a lot more use and is still going strong

Johnny Brown · August 23, 2010, 06:12:05 pm

Tetler's certainly the first guy I'd ask if I was worried I needed to replace something. He's always got the latest stuff.

Monolith · August 24, 2010, 10:31:41 am

Just to echo what Jim said really. I'd heard of the quarry long ago but until the other day had never been here (or seen the state it was in). Those bull horns at the top as Jim says are quality. Definitely going to go back soon and thanks to everyone who has opened up this venue through hard work.

Tris · September 14, 2010, 01:03:55 pm

Just to remind people that the last (hopefully) bit of bolting/clean-up work is happening this Saturday (18th Sept) at 10am.

Please come down and help out - everyone more than welcome, especially if you have a drill!!

Useful items to bring:

Old clothes
Old rope(s)/slings/abbing gear etc
Gardening implements
Rubbish bags
Lunch

Cheers

Tris

More info/directions etc here:

http://cheshireclimbing.wetpaint.com/

SpanishJuan · September 15, 2010, 08:56:37 am

Best o' luck on the final push. I can't come as my wife made other plans for me

Dam fine job to all concerned

with the job on the rest of the crag.

JamieG · May 06, 2014, 02:39:28 pm

Just wanted to say a massive thank you to everyone involved in the re-bolting of Frogsmouth. Checked it out for the first time yesterday and had a great time. A couple of sandy horror shows aside, the climbing was excellent and I'll definitely be back to have a crack at some of the trickier routes. Highlight of the day was definitely dogsbody arete!