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New Tor linkup (Read 4132 times)

Kingy

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New Tor linkup
November 18, 2009, 06:58:50 pm
I linked the Toilet into the newly bolted Obscene Gesture on saturday to create a new linkup. Follow the Toilet to after its crux and then instead of going up to the LH undercut and reachy redpoint crux of the Toilet, traverse pretty easily left about 2m to a junction with Obscene Gesture below its crux mono move and follow this route to its belay. Clip the bolt on Obscene Toilet (the new direct start to the Toilet) after doing the crux of the Toilet and don't bother with the bolt below the crux on Obscene as this will create drag. There is no rope drag on this linkup as it follows a nice arcing line from R to L.

I just realised that this is a first ascent as it is described on p117 of the '92 Rockfax as a top rope variation when Obscene was a trad route but has never been led until now. Interestingly, it is given 7c in the Rockfax but this was when the Toilet was graded 7c+ before bits dropped off it.

A proposed grade of 7c+ for 'Toilet Gesture' as it is IMO easier than the Toilet.

Doylo

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#1 Re: New Tor linkup
November 18, 2009, 07:50:57 pm
Nice Ted, surprised Zippy didn't spot it!

Kingy

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#2 Re: New Tor linkup
November 18, 2009, 07:55:24 pm
Yes it must have dropped under the radar that one! There are actually a few things still up for grabs but you have to think out the box a little!

This linkup is pretty logical as you are taking the easiest line and avoiding the Toilet RP crux, unlike some where you seek out difficulty. Its a bit like some of those LPT linkups that went up this summer.

Kingy

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#3 Re: New Tor linkups
November 30, 2009, 10:30:03 am
More Tor stuff for those interested. I did 2 new links over the last week:

1. 'The Green Turkey' 7c+/8a - Green Alternative into Jive Turkey

2. 'The Green Rooster' 8a - Green Alternative into Rooster Booster Pitch 2 (minus last 2 5b moves to top of crag as it was raining, its a legit option in IMHO to finish on the maillons on the last bolt at the top break in these condition, no change in grade for this)

The Green Turkey may well be 7c+ especially if the Green Alternative settles at 7c, which I think it will. Zippy may have done this one before but I have not asked him yet. The Green Rooster is a fair bit harder and pumpier, watch out for the odd bit of loose rubble! All good training for those running out of 8a's at this crag...better than lapping the same old stuff I reckon!

Kingy

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#4 Re: New Tor linkup
November 30, 2009, 10:31:47 am
And JC linked the Green Alternative into the top wall of Chimes for 'Chimes Alternative' 8a, great stuff!!

dave

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#5 Re: New Tor linkup
November 30, 2009, 10:42:17 am
what the fuck is "green alternative"?

Adam Lincoln

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#6 Re: New Tor linkup
November 30, 2009, 11:03:45 am
what the fuck is "green alternative"?

Its the line in between Chimes and Weedkiller.

Probes

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#7 Re: New Tor linkup
November 30, 2009, 12:54:28 pm
How busy is it getting at the Tor at the minute, at weekends?

T_B

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#8 Re: New Tor linkup
November 30, 2009, 12:54:34 pm
what the fuck is "green alternative"?

Its the line in between Chimes and Weedkiller.

'line'  :lol:

Adam Lincoln

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#9 Re: New Tor linkup
November 30, 2009, 01:13:38 pm
what the fuck is "green alternative"?

Its the line in between Chimes and Weedkiller.

'line'  :lol:

Yep, classic two mover. Or for you Tom, one.  ;)

Kingy

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#10 Re: New Tor linkup
November 30, 2009, 02:24:29 pm
How busy is it getting at the Tor at the minute, at weekends?

Fairly busy but you won't have to queue on most things! usually a sea of pads below weedkiller as well.

 

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