[Drew]

Just got back from Secret Garden upper area, and was wondering about a couple of the problems.

In Ru's guide (page 123), what's in for the feet on problems 23 and 24? It feels wrong to use the big ledge on the right for my feet, but it feels desperate (and slightly eliminate) not to.

Also, on the Walnut Whip boulder, has anyone got any beta for Fireball? I was trying to get a heel-toe lock with my right foot, and go up to the little mono pocket with my right hand, but only once managed to find a decent spot for the heel-toe lock.

The problem just to the left... what's in for feet? I obviously did the 3+ by bridging, but when I tried it properly, I couldn't get any further than the high mono with my right hand.

[etjoset]

Problems 23 and 24 on P123: Both start sitting with feet on small edges almost at ground level. The big flat low block on the right is out.

Problem 23 is fairly straightforward to reach out for the 2 good slots, though you need to get your body position right. It might be worth 6c rather than 6b+.

Problem 24 is rather tougher and I struggled to climb it truly directly. Instead, I used the crimp in the roof for LH to reach big slot/crack in roof for RH and then LH out to slots near lip (to R of the good slots on 23). The hard bit is keeping your feet on at the back. I then worked rightwards almost to the R arete before slapping up to slopers over the top, and toeing my foot (forget which) into the crack in the underside of the main roof. I then shuffled a couple of feet back L before rolling over the top. I thought this was harder than the 7a+ given by Ru (perhaps 7b?)

I thought that the L-R traverse problem on the block, which is given 7b+ in Ru's book and V8 in the BMC guide was more like 7a+, though still fairly worthwhile.

Couldn't do Fireball last time I tried - not flexible enough to get my toe on round the bulge. Never tried the thing with the mono.

[highrepute]

was out there yesterday too. problem 24 goes without the block, I used a different sequence to etjoset and would be happy to claim 7b for it but it probably isn't. from sidepull at back LH slot/crack in roof, RH slopey rib in roof, then I get a knee bar and went with RH to left crimp then again to right crimp. then LH to top.

I agree that thought the 6b+ felt harder than the 6c.

haven't been on the walknut whip, would you recommend?

[Drew]

was out there yesterday too. problem 24 goes without the block, I used a different sequence to etjoset and would be happy to claim 7b for it but it probably isn't. from sidepull at back LH slot/crack in roof, RH slopey rib in roof, then I get a knee bar and went with RH to left crimp then again to right crimp. then LH to top.

That sounds like the middle ground between the two problems. You went LH into the LH hold in problem 23, then out with the RH to the RH hold on problem 24? Or did you use something else for the LH? I felt like I'd be able to go from the LH undercling to the (not particularly) slopey 'rib', but then I might be too stretched out.

haven't been on the wallnut whip, would you recommend?

Wallnut Whip is pretty cool. Quite easy in comparison to the stuff on Stepped Roof.

[highrepute]

That sounds like the middle ground between the two problems. You went LH into the LH hold in problem 23, then out with the RH to the RH hold on problem 24? Or did you use something else for the LH? I felt like I'd be able to go from the LH undercling to the (not particularly) slopey 'rib', but then I might be too stretched out.

it's hard to describe accurately with so many problems right next to each other, I'll try again... I did what it says in the guide book, RH "slopey rib", LH small crimpy hold in roof (i described this as slot/crack before, i shouldn't have). In the guide they say go with LH to break but I went with RH (this is where I got the knee bar, with right leg on biggish ledge (not the massive one)). There's two crimps in the break (for prob 24) I got the L one first with RH then jumped RH again to R crimp. then LH to L crimp. Now sort feet out so LF is on obvious crimp on lip under roof, I did this without a swing. Then LH to a sloper just below top then LH again to jug on top.

Hrd to tell if that makes sense, I tried to put a bit more thought in that in earlier post. I'd normally have a video but managed to forget my tripod.

Wallnut Whip is pretty cool. Quite easy in comparison to the stuff on Stepped Roof.

easy eh? sounds ideal.

[Drew]

it's hard to describe accurately with so many problems right next to each other, I'll try again... I did what it says in the guide book, RH "slopey rib", LH small crimpy hold in roof (i described this as slot/crack before, i shouldn't have).

I think I know which hold you mean. I used it for my right hand on problem 23 before going through to the good holds in the break. It's pretty small though. I only managed to get two fingers on anything half decent. Oh well, I'll have to go back and do it properly

Wallnut Whip is pretty cool. Quite easy in comparison to the stuff on Stepped Roof.

easy eh? sounds ideal.

It just a case of locking your feet in and throwing a little bit for the last hold. Oh and trying not to kick too much shit onto your spotter on the top section!

[jfw]

i did the LH problem (after a few trips  )

little foot holds for feet, jam in break to reach out - then straight up

sorry shit photo (and off facebook)

[Drew]

Yeah did the Left hand problem without too much worry. The jam was pretty painful on the back of my hand, but the match on the sloper seemed to be the crux (I just locked my shoulder, but my mate used some fancy foot faggotry). The top was interesting as well, until we found the undercling sidepull for the left hand.

[jfw]

yeah i jammed my foot in to stop me sagging, for me matching sloper was ok - the next reach was hard and as you say the top. think i did use a sidepully hold but being weak had to slap, took me a while not to be too tired to throw/slap for the top out.

the RH pron just felt yuck

did the LH one as a project - was distraught when grimer gave it 6a in the definitive guide 

ps i had to reply to this post as it is a problem in the beta thread that i have actually done as oppose to the 99.9% of problems i will never (be able to) do

[Andy B]

For Fireball my sequence was:

Right foot deep heel toe, left foot pressing, left had on the arete, right hand over the top to the arete, left hand over again, right hand to the poor sloper in the face, feet out to the edge of the ledge, left foot up next to the arete, push up right hand to the top, pull over. It was quite scrittley a couple of years ago, but has cleaned up a fair bit since then.

[highrepute]

Vid from other day. Repeating the 6c and 7a+ for the camera. except couldn't really get psyched for sitting in a hole so gave up on the 7a, you get the idea of what i was doing i think. after had both hands in break moved left foot higher and went with LH to top.

Keen to get on fireballs now i'm told it's easy, thought it looked hard. Just need it to stop raining...

[Drew]

Dab!