Rivelin Quarries Appeciation day - Sunday (Read 25074 times)

grimer · November 23, 2009, 11:22:22 am

Ah - I get it now

Johnny Brown · November 23, 2009, 11:39:34 am

You thought I was serious? Jeez, I need to rethink my posting style lest I become a parody of myself.

Nigel · November 23, 2009, 03:25:17 pm

I'm not going to dignify the above with too much of a response, except to say that for all his bluster Johnny "climbing equivalent of a goal-hanger" Brown kept his mouth shut while I had a go on a rope, as he was too busy making cheat notes for another of his "look at me I used every trick in the book except a top-rope" so called ethically pure ground ups. I think I even saw him using a kinaesthetic dictaphone.

I went back today but it rained. I did clean up another project though. Further cleaning/patio progress now requires the lend of a chainsaw - anyone?

Nigel · November 26, 2009, 08:27:46 pm

Well it happened - a fine afternoon today saw a powerful team resembling a climbing version of Britain's Got Talent (plus myself) sieging That's My Lot ground up above about 15 pads (except myself - I've tried it on a rope). After about three hours Mr Ryan Pasquill Esq did the deed and nailed the second ascent in fine style. BRAVO

Several others looked close so hopefully it should get more repeats soon.

Consensus seemed to be that this was a fantastic climb, and that it was fine as a highball (it saw numerous falls from a hand in the break). No consensus on the grade I'm afraid Nik as it wasn't discussed, however my opinion would be highball Font 7b+. The sequence employed was a fair bit more controlled than the running jump, roughly what I described in my pm to you.

Thanks go to team patio (me, Johnny Brown, Bonjoy, Carlisle Slapper, Ned, some birch logs, assorted boulders, a B&Q bowsaw, maul/rock, adze/rock, a massive axe). Hopefull JB will supply some nice pics?

nik at work · November 26, 2009, 08:32:38 pm

Brilliant, nice one Nigel (and Ry of course). Did anybody try my technique? I'm not surprised by the apparently savage downgrade, I think without the nice patio it would still feel a bit spicy, non?

Pics please JB.

Fiend · November 26, 2009, 08:35:52 pm

7b+, right...! Is anyone downstarring it tho??

Exciting news though...

Anyone try Nik's other classic errr problem there??

Adam Lincoln · November 26, 2009, 08:40:53 pm

Quite a couple of contrasting days for Ry. Coming so close to Raven tor 8c's to ground upping grit E8's/highballs. What a guy.

Nigel · November 26, 2009, 08:47:24 pm

Quote from: nik at work on November 26, 2009, 08:32:38 pm

Brilliant, nice one Nigel (and Ry of course). Did anybody try my technique? I'm not surprised by the apparently savage downgrade, I think without the nice patio it would still feel a bit spicy, non?

Pics please JB.

No nobody tried our technique. There was widespread dismay at that sequence! Very very impressive stuff.

I don't think it is a savage downgrade really, with the landing as was and no pads it would probably warrant E8 for the hypothetical onsight, it would indeed be terrifing and a guaranteed injury! With the new set-up its a totall different ballgame. And Nik/Fiend, Font 7b+ is just my guess, this still makes it very hard for a grit route, there aren't many harder and in that style i.e. slabby laybacking it is probably top of the class. That was JB's take anyway. It saw off about 100 goes from pretty much the cream of ground up highballing, so yes its hard.

nik at work · November 26, 2009, 08:51:44 pm

You silver tongued charmer Nigel, I'm blushing

Anyway it's brilliant it's getting some attention, I'm really made up by this. Especially as it didn't go down without a fight. Hopefully a few more repeats shortly...

Did you get on Earthboots? How did that go?

Johnny Brown · November 26, 2009, 08:57:15 pm

A team like that doesn't layback a 7B+ for three hours with only one summit. 7C+

Neil F · November 27, 2009, 12:14:27 pm

Quote from: Nigel on November 26, 2009, 08:27:46 pm

Well it happened - a fine afternoon today saw a powerful team... ...sieging That's My Lot ground up above about 15 pads...
Thanks go to team patio (me, Johnny Brown, Bonjoy, Carlisle Slapper, Ned...

Haven't you all got jobs to go to....?

Johnny Brown · November 27, 2009, 12:41:19 pm

Not when there's uk7b laybacking to get amongst...

I'd just like to reiterate

Quote

Font 7b+

into

Quote

It saw off about 100 goes from pretty much the cream of ground up highballing

doesn't go. I'd say 8a, although it doesn't feel 8a, you can't do it either. And Ryan lanked it...

Jaspersharpe · November 27, 2009, 12:44:54 pm

Almost had to + you again there for use of UK 7b.

Nigel · November 27, 2009, 12:59:07 pm

Quote from: Neil F on November 27, 2009, 12:14:27 pm

Haven't you all got jobs to go to....?

Yes, I had to take half a days holiday, I left work at 12:00 to get out there!

In the light of JB's opinion I'll upgrade my estimate to 7c. I do feel that if the only really hard move (the one to the break) was at ground level then you would probably agree with that. I'm probably biased by my go from the comfort of a rope so I suppose its a question of whether you factor height in? Anyway, like I said no consensus developed as it wasn't discussed so if we say 7c-8a and the hardest arete layback on grit will that do? There's no point asking Ryan!

Nik, no I didn't try Earthboots, we were all trying TML for 3 hours. Literally!

Johnny Brown · November 27, 2009, 01:01:59 pm

I see where you're coming from, but I'll say again what I said yesterday. If that's 7c, we just need to go back with a stronger team. Who do you suggest?

T_B · November 27, 2009, 01:04:08 pm

downgrading is the new overgrading $:-\$

Johnny Brown · November 27, 2009, 01:09:10 pm

Actually I take it back. Its 7c until Tidy John's had a go.

Nigel · November 27, 2009, 03:29:03 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on November 27, 2009, 01:09:10 pm

Actually I take it back. Its 7c until Tidy John's had a go.

Tidy John would walk it.

nik at work · November 27, 2009, 04:27:13 pm

Who is Tidy John?

UK 7b, this thread gets better and better...

priscilla wimbush · November 27, 2009, 07:33:23 pm

Some lovely pictures on Logs' Blong Nik - I think he likes it, and you.

GCW · November 27, 2009, 08:27:09 pm

So is the original start still an unrepeated 8b boulder problem?

nik at work · November 27, 2009, 09:18:22 pm

Quote from: priscilla wimbush on November 27, 2009, 07:33:23 pm

Some lovely pictures on Logs' Blong Nik - I think he likes it, and you.

I assumed everybody liked me?

nik at work · November 27, 2009, 09:24:44 pm

Quote from: GCW on November 27, 2009, 08:27:09 pm

So is the original start still an unrepeated 8b boulder problem?

Careful Wallis, or you'll remind me about another unrepeated boulder problem I can harp on about...

Is this the end of my relentless Rivelin mutterings? That makes me a bit sad...

GCW · November 28, 2009, 07:28:34 am

There's always Denham....

Bonjoy · December 02, 2009, 10:22:16 am

I got nowhere on it so take my opinion with as much salt as you want, but I reckon no easier than 7c+. Based somewhat on how it felt, but more significantly on the speculation that if you were to get the same team to conduct a three hour siege on any other problem of less than 7c+ in the peak, they would almost certainly come away with more than one ascent. Also, judging by the effort it took Ryan to do Toy Boy yesterday, which is another reachy, smeary 7c+, he clearly found TML considerably harder.