UKBouldering.com

Bouldering at Bosigran (Read 6191 times)

A Jooser

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 142
  • Karma: +14/-1
#25 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 29, 2019, 12:53:11 am
Following link to Andy's old blog should take you to info on some of the problems on Zennor Hill
https://blocspenwith.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2007-04-20T19:11:00Z&max-results=7

Foreign Affairs looks like this...





And is on the block in this video (Foreign Affairs' starting hold is the big break Andy steps into at 15 second mark)...


The thin seam of Agony Aunt is on the other side of the triangular block which can also be seen on the right in the vid. These boulders are on top in the middle of Zennor Hill, which is best reached by the long footpath that contours around to the top of the hill from the road at Eagle's Nest/Tregarthen (the two houses on the roadside set high up on the St Ives side of the village). If you are lucky the Moomaid Ice Cream shipping container might be opening up for business this weekend too.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18693
  • Karma: +585/-8
#26 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 29, 2019, 07:07:27 am
No worries. I’m not Ted though!  :lol:

Oops! 😬

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18693
  • Karma: +585/-8
#27 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 29, 2019, 09:31:51 am
Thanks Again Jooser & Andy. 👍

Andy W

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 493
  • Karma: +14/-0
    • http://andywhall.com/
#28 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 29, 2019, 04:20:49 pm
Following link to Andy's old blog should take you to info on some of the problems on Zennor Hill
https://blocspenwith.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2007-04-20T19:11:00Z&max-results=7

Foreign Affairs looks like this...





And is on the block in this video (Foreign Affairs' starting hold is the big break Andy steps into at 15 second mark)...


The thin seam of Agony Aunt is on the other side of the triangular block which can also be seen on the right in the vid. These boulders are on top in the middle of Zennor Hill, which is best reached by the long footpath that contours around to the top of the hill from the road at Eagle's Nest/Tregarthen (the two houses on the roadside set high up on the St Ives side of the village). If you are lucky the Moomaid Ice Cream shipping container might be opening up for business this weekend too.

There’s also ‘needles in my eyes’ unrepeated I think, which starts on the same jug as agony aunt but goes right or more straight up via small sloper. About 7b I thought at the time.

tomtom

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18693
  • Karma: +585/-8
#29 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
July 13, 2019, 07:30:21 am
Thanks for all the posts - thought I'd put up an update about what I got up to. Considering I had 10 days holiday with my wife and Toddler, I managed to touch rock 5 times in anger which was pretty good going...

Had two sessions at Carn Galver - loved that arete - didnt like the 8-9 tick bits I picked up afterwards! According to the friends we were staying with nearby, its an organic sheep farm - so no dips (which may or may not have any bearing on why etc..). Second visit was really quick as I started getting tick attacked again - but managed to grab the top in a last gasp throw that saw all other hands and feet flail off :D excellent fun! Ticks crawlign about on my mat made working the sitter less appealing... one for winter...

On the Monday, we went to meet up with my sister in law and young family who were (coinicdenctally) at St Ives... Beach family/toddler scenes - but having four parents and two little ones meant I was able to sneak off to Clodgy for a couple of hours in the afternoon...

I think there should be some new Olympic sport - similar in set up to the modern pentathlon etc.. where you have to (A) carry loads of shit down to the beach (most of which isnt used) rammed into a bouldering mat and under every arm (B) Sprint 1-2km cross country to get to a bouldering spot - with pads (C) Climb f*cking as hard as you can in the 45-60 min you have left (D) run back again (E) sucessfuly negotiate ice cream stall and return to beach...

Anyway, Clodgy was great - quite the contrast from the Granite!!!! slick and black... 20 degrees+ and sun didnt help! Give having only one pad, the orientation and the sun after warming up I got stuck into Boomerang. Didnt get very far :D but after 45 min or so worked out the top out and all the second half moves. First move felt HARD!

Next day - we had a day at Gwynver. Great beach (although the only Dog beach in the area it would seem... anyway) I was 'given' an hour to go and boulder. Which meant - 10 min run to the end, quick boulder, 10 min run back. I loved the rock at Gwynver. Grimer moans about it a bit in Boulder Britain, but I had no problems finding things. Tide was in-ish so headed to the problems on the point. That 4/5 flake crack is just superb climbing.. that alone is worth the run in and back... I then started on the crimpy wall around the corner (very limited time) and failed on the easier stuff on the left - then managed the 7A on the RH (closest to beach) end using some hard crimping and a lank move. Great sketchy finish - and I then nearly fell off the edge when a nearby bloke fishing (that I hadnt spotted) started having a chat with me :D

Thursday - back to St Ives (family beach/Tate etc..) much busier - but managed to negotiate another 90 min away and went back (haing watched a couple of vids) to get Boomerang done. hahhahaha as if :) Enjoyed working it though and got all the moves overlapping except the first throw... just couldnt hang onto those crimps/flakes long ennought to launch. Good times.

Overall a really good trip - thanks again for the pointers and info on Zennor - I just didnt have the time in the end.

A Jooser

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 142
  • Karma: +14/-1
#30 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
July 13, 2019, 04:12:21 pm
 :2thumbsup:

Great to have some feedback on the area.

Sorry not to have warned you about the ticks. They are getting to be a problem everywhere. I think it's possibly a mix of parasite treatments for livestock no longer being done as chemicals are banned and animals being grazed far more often on land that they rarely (if ever) used to be put on. This is certainly the case for the moors around Carn Galver as regular grazing here only started within the past 10 years since the arrival of the cattle grids. Bosigran also has become a tick haven. All in all you're right that Carn Galver Arete is best in the winter - not just for tip-top moorland granite friction conditions but also to avoid the biting critters!

Looks like you managed to find some of the best at Gwynver too. I like it there, but I know where the good problems are which certainly helps.

Hoseyb

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Master of Obscurites
  • Posts: 347
  • Karma: +36/-0
    • www.hoseyb.org.uk
#31 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
August 04, 2019, 10:28:49 pm
Just been down staying in great bossallow next to the chun quoit.  Only got out twice,  once to boulder on Carn above bossallow. This was quite good and chosen for flat grass landings as no mat. Failed to get the nicest line which used a crystal like a kids drawing of a cock and balls. Too hot and humid.  Second bit of rock touching was at Bozigran and was mainly made up of soloing black slab. Great fat boulder arete on the summit above it though. Too hot to pull on. Bouldered the easier overhanging bloc above kafloosalem area instead.  Will put pics and info on the blog once I've pulled it together.  Certainly loads of potential for a penwith guide though,  especially if you could list those doable padless for the dad's like me.

Motown

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 42
  • Karma: +3/-0
#32 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
August 05, 2019, 09:07:53 pm
Ticks... One in the balls after a couple of days trad there at the end of July. Possible bites on legs as well. Beware.  :thumbsdown:

Hoseyb

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Master of Obscurites
  • Posts: 347
  • Karma: +36/-0
    • www.hoseyb.org.uk
#33 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
August 09, 2019, 10:49:00 pm
Blog of a couple of boulders.
https://hoseyb.blogspot.com/2019/08/cornish-interlude.html?m=0

Be interested to know if anyone else has bouldered at The Carn? Only a couple of lines but all good fun

A Jooser

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 142
  • Karma: +14/-1
#34 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
August 09, 2019, 11:34:11 pm
I have walked up to the Carn at Morvah with my rock shoes but I can't be sure I ever put them on to do anything. I think I was disappointed, but your video makes it look larger than I remember it being.

The sitter on the diagonal black vein in your photo from the top of Bosigran goes at about V2/3 English 6a-ish - credit to Carn Brea Bob for doing it first I guess, but I can't really remember.

Top marks for spotting some Cornish in the wild by the way!...



'Have a good life'

Hoseyb

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Master of Obscurites
  • Posts: 347
  • Karma: +36/-0
    • www.hoseyb.org.uk
#35 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
August 10, 2019, 10:21:15 am
It was only the first bloc that had height, and I was keen to climb, and was padless.  However,  saying all that the moves were enjoyable,  good top outs too. I'm 5'8" ish if that helps with scale.

Has anyone done the phat arete above black slab?

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2020, SimplePortal