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Torquay bouldering (Read 4307 times)

kac

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Torquay bouldering
July 16, 2019, 01:19:47 pm
I'm going on a family holiday to Torquay next week and was wondering if its worth negotiating to take a small pad. Is there any bouldering around 7a-b with landings OK on your own with a small pad and quick access? A quick look at UKC suggests not but grateful for any advice so I know that I am not missing out!

monkoffunk

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#1 Re: Torquay bouldering
July 16, 2019, 02:22:31 pm
There is bouldering there but been on it myself. Not sure how quick the access is or what the landings are like though!


https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=19054#maps

Ged

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#2 Re: Torquay bouldering
July 16, 2019, 02:27:00 pm
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1531#maps  (some stuff high, more than one mat would be nice, possibly a bit sharp for summer)

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=20060#maps (tidal, but good wholesome summer fun)

Wood FT

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#3 Re: Torquay bouldering
July 16, 2019, 09:43:34 pm
I'm going on a family holiday to Torquay next week and was wondering if its worth negotiating to take a small pad. Is there any bouldering around 7a-b with landings OK on your own with a small pad and quick access? A quick look at UKC suggests not but grateful for any advice so I know that I am not missing out!

Bouldering above the sea down at Long Quarry Point if you're into that

Ged

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#4 Re: Torquay bouldering
July 17, 2019, 09:42:28 am
Actually yeah what he said. Forget bouldering, go dwsing at Berry head, London Bridge and LQP. the best the area has to offer by far

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#5 Re: Torquay bouldering
July 17, 2019, 10:13:03 am
Just seen this thread.

+1 on the DWS.

But there’s some Bouldering around too. Some listed in the South Devon guide, which is well worth the purchase for both.
Don’t forget Dartmoor, though.
It was disgustingly sticky on Bonehill yesterday, so I sacked it off and went running instead, but as long as there’s a breeze it’s fun all summer.

bigironhorse

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#6 Re: Torquay bouldering
July 17, 2019, 10:23:08 am
DWS in the area is great. Not particularly recommended if you are down there without a partner though. DWSing on your own always seems a bit risky.

Wood FT

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#7 Re: Torquay bouldering
July 17, 2019, 10:39:56 am
DWS in the area is great. Not particularly recommended if you are down there without a partner though. DWSing on your own always seems a bit risky.

Agreed, though you are rarely alone at LQP with the holiday boats and coasteering (?)  groups.

Arapiles and the crystal routes being safe and above good water.

That said, it’s not as fun on your own so possibly just ignore me and go for a swim.
 

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#8 Re: Torquay bouldering
July 17, 2019, 11:57:20 am
Is that you Grandma?

Oldmanmatt

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#9 Re: Torquay bouldering
July 17, 2019, 12:45:28 pm
Being alone seems unlikely...

There are usually a few around, and if you really get stuck, my staff are usually keen when not on shift (Seb is usually free during the week, for instance, though he’s opened an account with “Tuppence” and is a tad obsessive, so...).
There’s always the “South West Sports climbing and Beta” group, or the “Dartmoor Bouldering” group on FB too.

kac

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#10 Re: Torquay bouldering
July 17, 2019, 12:52:43 pm
Many thanks. The dws looks great but not on my own - haven't done any before.

Hopes nose beach looks pretty good and probably the best bet. Can I just ask if the landings are sand and shingle or rocks - would it be OK and still fun without a mat?

Otherwise how much is the wall for a one off visit?

Ged

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#11 Re: Torquay bouldering
July 17, 2019, 01:03:10 pm
I'd say you definitely want a mat for down there. Rocky landings. When are you down? I can give you a shout if I'm out dwsing

kac

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#12 Re: Torquay bouldering
July 17, 2019, 01:47:17 pm
OK cheers. Might be able to fit one in car. We are going this Saturday for a week. Its a bit tricky making plans though as more a family holiday and just hoping will be able to find a few hours at some point. Keeping the 1 year old and non climbing partner happy are the priorities! The dws will have to wait for another time though I appreciate the kind offer.

Oldmanmatt

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#13 Re: Torquay bouldering
July 17, 2019, 02:07:58 pm
Guest entry at the Bunker is £9.50, or do a one week registration for £2 and then entry is £8.
Much though the business is welcome in the summer, I sincerely hope the weather is kind to you and you find your way down to Redgate beach!

(Which is a beautiful spot, if a tough trek with a one year old. Take the path from Walls hill, technically closed, but still very much in use. Again, the beach has been closed since a severe rock slide, several years ago. It’s still popular with locals).

kac

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#14 Re: Torquay bouldering
July 18, 2019, 02:02:13 pm
Thanks Matt. Will try to check it out if I can escape for long enough! My partners not the outdoors type so definitely won't be up for tricky paths!

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#15 Re: Torquay bouldering
July 18, 2019, 11:22:25 pm
Just gonna plug a few problems at Daddyhole I did a few years ago, as I see no mention of them here.

https://cdn.ukc2.com/i/222474.jpg

Landings aren't super friendly, but there might be a few nice undone lines left on the block for those who are keen

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#16 Re: Torquay bouldering
July 20, 2019, 01:52:15 pm
Just gonna plug a few problems at Daddyhole I did a few years ago

Is that below the main crag - ie Suicide Blonde area?  Must be a ball ache getting pads down there, no?

Yoof

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#17 Re: Torquay bouldering
July 21, 2019, 11:15:10 am
Is that below the main crag - ie Suicide Blonde area?  Must be a ball ache getting pads down there, no?

Yup, just below that and Gates of Eden (hence two of the names). Not sure about dragging pads down, as I did them with no mat but with a couple of spotters (was going for some easy DWS with a load of people doing trad).

There's also a cool roof crack on the approach which is tidal above a sand landing

 

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