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Bouldering at Bosigran (Read 4808 times)

Bunchuk

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Bouldering at Bosigran
November 02, 2009, 04:00:27 pm
Hey All

I was down at Bosigran on saturday and as I especially despise multi-pitch climbing I had a run around the crag and surrounding area in search of any decent bouldering to be had. It's pretty bleak down there boulder-wise but I did come across two class problems, the first one is down and around the corner from the main cliff/congregation area.



Its probably about V3/4 and pretty decent. (a short video clip is also viewable here: http://www.climber.co.uk/gallery/picture.asp?id=2547.)

The second one is an absolutely fantastic V4/5 with an incredibly powerful starting move, it's on this boulder:



which is located just right of the path leading to Bosigran main area, just as it begins to get rocky.

Does anyone know if these problems are documented? Or has anyone here climbed them? Just thought I'd give a shout out in case anyone found themselves in a similar bored position being dragged to the cliffs by trad fanatic friends!

Jamie

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#1 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
November 03, 2009, 12:06:44 pm
The first problem is the right side of the cave flake below the Nameless rake. It was shown to me years ago and I was told it was a problem climbed by Mr Frank Cannings (from standing at 5c) decades ago Ė there's a very long history of bouldering in Cornwall. I'm sure the sitter has been done by plenty of people in the past and it's finished by topping-out, on to the top of the flake, then traversing off.

I don't recognise the second problem.

There is plenty of bouldering at Bosigran but it's not documented so you'd have to ask around. There is a good long traverse wall bellow the Big Top/Trapeze buttress, and two traverses (a low seam and a higher crack) from Doorpost Variation Start to LBJ's start. There are loads of other traverses along the bottom of the main cliff too.

The walls at the base of Kafoozalem/Evil Eye/Raven Wall area offer the best straight-up problems; there is also a good fist-jamming crack here. Further bouldering can be found on the outcrops at the top of the crag. Finally the sea level ledges have some excellent highball problems (as mentioned previously on these forums).

Bunchuk

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#2 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
November 03, 2009, 01:19:18 pm
Thanks for the info, I did figure they had all been climbed before just thought I'd have ask around as they were really nice problems in an area I'd never heard of for having bouldering before. The second problem is definitely worth a seeking out, with some quite powerful moves up the twin overhanging cracks and lip of the arete. It's basically the first piece of rock you meet on the way down to the crag.

I also had a look on the tors up on the hill on the other side of the main road, is there anything up here? There looked to be a decent, quite holdless, hanging prow that would have yielded a good problem but the landing was terrible and I didn't have a mat so skipped it.

thanks again

A Jooser

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#3 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
November 03, 2009, 01:42:44 pm
The prow you're talking about is on Carn Galver and goes at V4 from standing or a hard V6 from sitting. It doesn't really have a name but has become known as Carn Galva Arete since the sitter was added...





It's worth checking out the Carn Galva and Fresh Air videos in the movies section of the Blocspenwith blog. Thanks for the extra details on the second problem, I'll make sure I search it out when I'm next out that way.

Bunchuk

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#4 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
November 03, 2009, 02:46:45 pm
No problem, I thought it V4/V5 but am unaccustomed to bouldering in Cornwall so it might be easier. Please do check it out whenever you go back there, I would love to hear what you think of it. The prow pictured was not the one I saw, however it appears to be a much better problem and I wish I had seen it!  I'll go check out the videos now.

tomtom

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#5 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 27, 2019, 07:41:26 pm
10 year thread bump!!!

Iím on hols staying about a km from Bosigran and noticed on Ukc a little pin for some bouldering above the road at Carn Galver. A bit of googling later I found this thread so wondered if anyone had any more info or any more development documented round there (Carn Galver or anywhere near..)??

👍👍

Fiend

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#6 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 27, 2019, 08:04:07 pm
I hear the multi-pitching is pretty good.

andy popp

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#7 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 27, 2019, 09:31:31 pm
I hear the multi-pitching is pretty good.

Yes, I'm dismayed by the OP. Who finds themselves at Bosigran and refuses to go tradding?

SA Chris

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#8 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 27, 2019, 10:28:23 pm
A boulderer?

old cheese

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#9 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 27, 2019, 10:28:44 pm
10 year thread bump!!!

Iím on hols staying about a km from Bosigran and noticed on Ukc a little pin for some bouldering above the road at Carn Galver. A bit of googling later I found this thread so wondered if anyone had any more info or any more development documented round there (Carn Galver or anywhere near..)??

👍👍
I have bouldered near there. If you park at the carpark next to the counthouse, walk south out of the carpark along the road until you see a path leading away from the sea on the other side of the road. It leads up a valley and you can see some boulders up and left. The main boulders are a small cluster below the top of the tor. Not loads there but a great 7a/+ sit down arete, Carn Galva arete. It is quite obvious. Take a brush as some of that stringy sea lichen grows over the top of the boulders. There are some warm ups about and may be some more stuff on the top of the tor. Look for the ĎWest Cornwall training and boulderingí Facebook page for locals knowledge. Worth seeking out the weapon too which is a little further south. 7b+ ish and sod all else though

tomtom

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#10 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 27, 2019, 10:37:05 pm
Thanks Old Cheese. Top knowledge. Iíll have a look on FB.

Now - yes there is some top trad around there - and even I have done some about 25 years ago - and a little more 10 years ago. A group solo of commando ridge is a good memory....

But I have no rope, rack, harness - and have a non climbing partner and 3 year old boy - so sneaking an hour or two up the road every other day to loose some skin is my opportunity to exorcise my climbing needs.... oh - and in st Ives while theyíre pottering around the Tate (is quite like to do that too - but needs must.. :D )

A Jooser

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#11 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 28, 2019, 12:47:21 am
Old Cheese's directions will get you to Carn Galva Arete. The footpath up the valley starts at the cattle grid between Bosigran car park and the cream tea place at Rosmergy. Video of the problem...



Bouldering on top of Zennor Hill is also good. When are you likely to be in St Ives?

Fiend

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#12 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 28, 2019, 08:55:34 am
That does look cool. Arguably even better than bouldering at Carn Gowla itself.

tomtom

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#13 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 28, 2019, 09:04:00 am
Bouldering on top of Zennor Hill is also good. When are you likely to be in St Ives?

👍 thanks for the vid - know what to look for now.

Not sure when with St Ives timings are a bit random! Though the forecast is great for the week ahead. Sister in law by coincidence is there at same time as is so weíll be there at some point...

Andy W

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#14 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 28, 2019, 09:12:19 am
Thanks Barney for a reminder of nice cool bouldering conditions...currently stewing in the heat! I've changed the vid title  from 'gowla' to 'Galva'

Franco

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#15 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 28, 2019, 10:56:09 am
You won't  have time for bouldering with the lines at carn vellan, Sennen new routes and the direct on teahupo'o in need of shunts. Don't forget your static tom!

tomtom

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#16 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 28, 2019, 11:38:29 am
Too Busy reading fireman Sam books to our 3yo under Chun Quoit for any of that right now. 😃

tomtom

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#17 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 28, 2019, 09:08:48 pm
Thanks Barney for a reminder of nice cool bouldering conditions...currently stewing in the heat! I've changed the vid title  from 'gowla' to 'Galva'

Great problem that ArÍte. Had an hour on it today. Thought Iíd figured out the top but didnít want to commit (one pad no spotter) but now had a look at the vid and was doing it a bit different (reaching for sloper near top around 25-30 Cm away from the ArÍte...

Got all week so Iíll be back :)

20 degrees and hazy sun probably doesnít help!!

Andy W

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#18 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 28, 2019, 09:36:09 pm
Thanks Barney for a reminder of nice cool bouldering conditions...currently stewing in the heat! I've changed the vid title  from 'gowla' to 'Galva'

Great problem that ArÍte. Had an hour on it today. Thought Iíd figured out the top but didnít want to commit (one pad no spotter) but now had a look at the vid and was doing it a bit different (reaching for sloper near top around 25-30 Cm away from the ArÍte...

Got all week so Iíll be back :)

20 degrees and hazy sun probably doesnít help!!

Nice one, I imagine hot temps donít help. I think there may be a better way of doing the top out than I did in the vid, Iím sure someone has done it more statically. I do remember missing the top and flying over my spotters head on the FA attempts. Zennor moor also has some good stuff and Zennor Fool down at sea level.

tomtom

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#19 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 28, 2019, 09:59:43 pm
Any info on Zennor moor/hill Andy? Google showed some old (dead) links...

kingholmesy

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#20 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 28, 2019, 10:32:28 pm
Zennor Hill: OS ref 463 384.
From village of Zennor, walk balk to main rd (B3306) then go left, in direction of St Ives, until a public footpath on the right leads across the moor to the hill.

kingholmesy

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#21 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 28, 2019, 10:42:01 pm
Foreign Affairs. V7. Sit start to slopers & slap over the top.

Agony Aunt. V7. A low traverse along a thin horizontal seam.

tomtom

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#22 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 28, 2019, 10:43:18 pm
Cheers Ted.

kingholmesy

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#23 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 28, 2019, 11:22:52 pm
No worries. Iím not Ted though!  :lol:

cheque

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#24 Re: Bouldering at Bosigran
June 28, 2019, 11:48:12 pm
Thereís surely loads of good bouldering in Cornwall. Are there plans for a guidebook?