[fatneck]

I've done all the relevant UKB based research but require more specific info/advice...

Going down next week for 3 days dedicated finger rippage and keen to tick some projects. On several previous visits, I've been accompanied by my lovely yet easily bored progeny and been unable to do more than a few quick circuits at several different venues. Pleasant as this is to sample and get a feel for the area, it's time to bear down properly.

Will hopefully be ticking off all my projects at Bonehill and Hound Tor earlier on in the trip  ??? and definately hitting Saddle Tor at some point but I'm really wanting to visit a completely new venue and both Combeshead Tor and Bovey Woods sound great! Could any seasoned grockle avoiders please offer advice on the following:

• Combeshead Tor or Bovey Woods?
• Is it even worth going to The Woods without a guide?
• Is Alan Smith still V9?
• If the weather's gash, what are the (climbing) options?

There's probably loads of sensible questions that I should ask before "Is Alan Smith still V9" but I can't think of them now!
Cheers in advance...

[Herbert]

I haven't been to the woods but Combeshead is great. If you're at Bonehill and have time I think it's worth walking up to Honeybeg (via Bell Tor) if you haven't already been.

The info on the woods here seems helpful:

http://shaptor.wetpaint.com/page/Stonelands




 

[Richie Crouch]

Rather than start a new thread I thought I'd ask in here:

Is it wise to go down to Dartmoor for the August bank hol (27-30th);

- will it be impossible to boulder 4 days here
- Whats it like in the summer heat
- Are there plenty of high quality tendon friendly problems 6a to 7c to get on with
- Is it likely to be midgie or do you generally get plenty of breeze
- Is it best to stick to Hound Tor/Saddle Tor/Bonehill
- Is it going to be impossible to find accomodation for 4 in a bunkhouse at this short notice
p.s. (Is Alan Smith still V9?)

[SA Chris]

- will it be impossible to boulder 4 days here
- Whats it like in the summer heat
- Are there plenty of high quality tendon friendly problems 6a to 7c to get on with
- Is it likely to be midgie or do you generally get plenty of breeze
- Is it best to stick to Hound Tor/Saddle Tor/Bonehill
- Is it going to be impossible to find accomodation for 4 in a bunkhouse at this short notice
p.s. (Is Alan Smith still V9?)

No, plenty to go at, but skin will be a limiting factor. Head to some coastal stuff one of the days and gicve the tips a break.
Choose your venues, and time of day well and you will probably be Okish on all but the slopey desperates
Yes
Midgies unlikely, but not unheard of. Choose high breezy spots if it is damp and muggy. Better yet, head for the coast.
Probably, although I like Smallacombe for some circuity stuff. http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/Smallacombe/index.shtml  http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/CombesheadTor/index.shtml seems to get a good write up, but not actually been.
Not a mass to do at Hound Tor, but can be combined with other places.
No idea on bunkhouses, google is your friend for that one, but midweek you will have a better chance.

[grimer]

sent you a mail richie

[Richie Crouch]

Thank you very much for the swift replies.

Turns out youngy has a friend who lives down in Taunton so we may be able to score free accomodation (yyfy).

The coast may not be a bad shout for the others, although I've done most of the stuff I wanted to get done in the visit down to Bude with Dolph last year. Might get to have a round 2 on Supercede I guess finger permitting.

[JonI]

Dartmoor is generally not very midgey, but it might be prudent to watch out for ticks (wear long trousers) if you head off the beaten track.  Most of the tors are fairly exposed and catch the breeze if there's any about - saddle tor or the dark side of bonehill are usually a good bet for summer evenings.
4 days on will be hard for your skin, but if you want a break from the granite there's always the north coast or deep water soloing at berry head.
In addition to bonehill/saddle/hound tor I'd really recommend you go to combeshead tor - loads of quality easy/mid grade problems in an awesome location.  A good place to go at the end of the trip, once you've lost all your skin on the harder problems!
As far as I know Alan Smith SS is still considered to be V9.

[BB]

If you want a bunk house, try this place:

http://www.sparrowhawkbackpackers.co.uk/sparrowhawk2.html

[cheque]

I'll be in Plymouth between Christmas and New year. Looks like Dartmoor is the place to get some bouldering done. I've only been to Devon three times in my life (once to go to Lundy, once to watch Mansfield play Exeter and once driving through on the way to Cornwall) so know nothing.

What's the deal guide wise? Where's good for the one-matted, no-spottered punter in the mid 6s to (very) low 7s?

[slackline]

A few links on the Wiki but the best website is Dave Hendersons Javu.

Can't recommend anywhere as I've only been bouldering on Dartmoor once and used an OS map to find some rocks who's name I forget and then followed my nose as to what to climb.

[Steamboat Stello]

Like Slackline says Javu is the best bet.

I'd suggest Hound Tor and Bonehill for starters as they are very easy to find, problems are obvious, walk-ins short and most stuff has good landings. Lots of easy things in the mid 6's to low 7's.

Then i'd go go for Black Hill and/or Easdon, smaller venues but some good stuff in the 6C-7B range.

Then if you still have skin (bravo!) head to Saddle Tor to try something a bit trickier. Again good landings and dead easy to find.

I'll be about between Xmas and New Year so would be happy to show you round if you want. Just PM me nearer the time.

[Steamboat Stello]

p.s. - in-keeping with the rest of the thread:
Alan Smith is still supposed to be V9, whatever that means...its fucking hard I think.

[andyd]

p.s. - in-keeping with the rest of the thread:
Alan Smith is still supposed to be V9, whatever that means...its fucking hard I think.

I think it takes a while to stop dripping too.


Bonehill for your first Dartmoor experience.

[Three Nine]

I'll be in Plymouth between Christmas and New year. Looks like Dartmoor is the place to get some bouldering done. I've only been to Devon three times in my life (once to go to Lundy, once to watch Mansfield play Exeter and once driving through on the way to Cornwall) so know nothing.

What's the deal guide wise? Where's good for the one-matted, no-spottered punter in the mid 6s to (very) low 7s?

I hope to be on the moor/in the woods a bit during that period. If you PM me closer to the time I can show u around if we coincide.

Also, Kingy is often in Plymouth around xmas hols, and can show u what's what.

[Three Nine]

But yeah, Bonehill or Hound Tor (or both) for first visit. Dartmoor excels in the 6s.

[Duma]

On the Plymouth side, and my favourite spot on the moor, is Coombeshead tor. Bit more walk in, but that would be more than compensated by the shorter drive, and it's a lovely walk. Javu for topo, though there's some stuff in boulder Britain. Sharp arete ; all the V0's on the slab; proof of concept ; dyno from undercuts ; hanging flake. All brilliant, between 6B and 7A, and fine on your own. http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/CombesheadTor/index.shtml

[fatneck]

Planning a trip with the wife in May. Any idea when the guide will be out?

[Wood FT]

I'll be in Plymouth between Christmas and New year. Looks like Dartmoor is the place to get some bouldering done. I've only been to Devon three times in my life (once to go to Lundy, once to watch Mansfield play Exeter and once driving through on the way to Cornwall) so know nothing.

What's the deal guide wise? Where's good for the one-matted, no-spottered punter in the mid 6s to (very) low 7s?

Cheque, I'm near Plymouth too for the days between Christmas and NYE, I'd like to get out for a day on the moor, i'll pm you

[Duncan campbell]

Your sweaty kipper hands will be ripped to shreds within 5 mins on the moors Van Gina!!!

[danm]

See what I've started! Look forward to seeing the result of a GVG lash combined with the ablative qualities of Dartmoor granite. Photos please Guy! 

[Wood FT]

[cheque]

Cool, psyched now! I'll send some messages near the time. 

[BrutusTheBear]

Combeshead would be an excellent choice for a circuit of sixes and low sevens, also much closer to Plymouth.  Well worth checking out Lakeside boulders in the vicinity as well.

[Fultonius]

From the horses mouth:

I'd recommend down Tor as a good varied venue, not too far from the parking and Plymouth side. Landings generally excellent so super with one pad. Good spread from f6a-f7a. Combshead tor nearby is even better but is a longer walk and some problems are high. Broken ankles out there mean an air ambulance.

[BrutusTheBear]

Of course... if you go to Bonehill you can crawl to the car should you have a mishap.