[Percy B]

Well, its a new problem to me, and as far as I know a new problem for everybody, (but no doubt some know-all on here will put me right and tell me everybody did it years ago....) Oh well, here goes....

Left of The Knack is a two start route called Nick Knack Paddywhack (E2 6b) which does a cracking hard move, then scuttles left to finish up easy ground. Well, I have climbed this from a sitter and then finished it direct (this direct finish is down as a project in the Burbage, Millstone, etc. guide) giving a very obvious line and a very good highball 7a+. Maybe its been done before, but I didn't see any evidence of this, given the fact I had to ab down the upper bit and dig weeds out of the seam the problem climbs. The grade is for me - I reckon a bit easier for the very tall, and the living end for the short. Be warned - it looks piss, but is not as easy as it looks by some considerable margin. The line has a number of reasonable holds on which all bizarrely proved to be surplus to requirements in the end. Started sitting on one pad too - stacking mats will make the burly first move easier.

Travs has also climbed the wall a couple of metres left of the Knack to the obvious break. Starts just right of the crack/arete of Nathanial and doesn't use this feature - just a selection of nasty little crimps up to the break. Another very good problem, and quite exciting high up! Name and grade unknown (but probably at least 7b and then some). If you ask Travs nicely he might spill the beans...

You owe me Travs - you're hangover meant that I was spotter-less for todays epic!

[205Chris]

Don't want to piss on your bonfire but the direct finish to Nick Knack Paddywack has been done before by Andy Barker (not THE Andy Barker.....)

See here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=66250

Seems to agree on grade as well but don't think Andy climbed it from a sitter though.

[Somebody's Fool]

I had my eye on this after an abortive attempt a few weeks ago.  I was going to go with 'I've Still Got the Biggest Sack' as a name if successful.  Probably a good job not THE Andy Barker got there first.

[Shy Yorkshireman]

Also had my eye on this, Somebody's spot on with the name, Snoop would be proud. There's also a few neo classic's round there Gib's Rib 7a, (waiting for a proper name) and dyno's are a girls best friend 7a, (waiting for a proper line) I'll write them up at some point. Enjoy.

[travs]

Hi Percy, sorry I bummed out yesterday, but if you had been relying on my spotting I think you would have probably hurt yourself quite badly. I was incapable of walking never mind spoting! As for the problem thought I might call it the 'The Neck' graded 7b. As for Percy's new problem, it's definitely worth doing from a sitter, doing it this way the move of the blind flake makes it one of the best moves in the valley - good effort on the top wall!!

[fatdoc]

Hi Percy, sorry I bummed out yesterday, but if you had been relying on my spotting I think you would have probably hurt yourself quite badly. I was incapable of walking never mind spoting! As for the problem thought I might call it the 'The Neck' graded 7b. As for Percy's new problem, it's definitely worth doing from a sitter, doing it this way the move of the blind flake makes it one of the best moves in the valley - good effort on the top wall!!

a bit off topic:

whats the rather good looking wall / scoop right next to the stream over from the 20ft crack area at burb north??


it's  under, (very) burb west?

very chalked... only saw it from a distance, but looked good!

[dave]

its a 7bish, Count Down. a bit pokey but not too bad.

[Scouse D]

I would actually go as far as to say 'it is good'. Aye it's small but climbs well. Problem courtesy of Scut.

[fatdoc]

Ta! 

in my grade range (just!)

might have a look if it keeps cool...

[dave]

Note: its worth going when theres a suitable breeze cos otherwise it can get a bit bothersome with flies, with it being at the river etc.

[fatdoc]

will do

 

[slackline]

Note: its worth going when theres a suitable breeze cos otherwise it can get a bit bothersome with flies, with it being at the river etc.

Missed your window fatdoc, yesterday would have been ideal 

[Andy B]

I would actually go as far as to say 'it is good'. Aye it's small but climbs well. Problem courtesy of Scut.

I agree. It's no smaller than the Rocket Man and Mermaid block, and has nice moves.

[fatdoc]

Note: its worth going when theres a suitable breeze cos otherwise it can get a bit bothersome with flies, with it being at the river etc.

Missed your window fatdoc, yesterday would have been ideal 

was on belaying duty over the valley..... that's how i saw it...

good job the weather's held up and i 've got the afternoon off....




not.

[BAndy]

Alright, I'm the Andy Barker who did the direct finish to Nick Knack Paddywack last year. Bizarrely I didn't think to report it on here but UKC and Niall Grimes got the details. Tom from the Edge mentioned it had been done again. I think it stays pretty green cos it's a drainage line, I had to do a bit of brushing and chalking and pull some weeds out of the upper crack. I don't think it's been done since either so it probably went back to its original state.

I didn't do it from a sitter - started with left hand in the undercut and right hand on the sidepull as for the original route.The sitter sounds good. The moves on the top wall are very good and a bit intimidating. I think I had three pads(!), two stacked under the problem and one covering a lump of rock on the right that I was paranoid about landing on.

[cofe]

Travs has also climbed the wall a couple of metres left of the Knack to the obvious break. Starts just right of the crack/arete of Nathanial and doesn't use this feature - just a selection of nasty little crimps up to the break. Another very good problem, and quite exciting high up! Name and grade unknown (but probably at least 7b and then some). If you ask Travs nicely he might spill the beans...

banks and me did this today. it appears initially tight to the crack but feels pretty independent after the first move. those edges are proper skin rippers though, my dick emery board was working over time between attempts. a few pads needed for the landing, as much of it consists of the knife edge block also under attitude inspector. decent prob.

[travs]

Nice one, hope you enjoyed the problem. Did you try the sit start to the flakes left of attitude inspector I wrote up a few months ago?

[r-man]

I'm keen to have a look at these things some time. Did you give the flakes sitter a name?

[Andy B]

Nice one, hope you enjoyed the problem. Did you try the sit start to the flakes left of attitude inspector I wrote up a few months ago?

No, we didn't. I'd forgotten about that. We weren't even sure where the Neck went whilst we were there, we were just playing around on that wall (we did a sitter to The Knack as well, useful warm up in that area).

[dave]

Did you try the sit start to the flakes left of attitude inspector I wrote up a few months ago?

i had a brief look at this the other week. I'll be honest, I wasn't saluting that particular flagpole.

[travs]

I know it's not the best problem in the world but I thought the actual moves were pretty good, much better than they look. I assume you did the problem?

[dave]

no, had a look, moved on.

[Andy B]

I've just reread my last post and thought it could be construed as me saying that we didn't enjoy The Neck. It was a good problem. The fact that we wanted to climb the wall without knowing what it was is a good sign, and a couple of the team are psyched to go back and finish it off. I meant that we didn't try the sit start left of A I.