[yorkshirewarcry]

Looking for some recommendations of truly excellent problems worthy of some attention during the forthcoming grit season...

Some criteria as follows:

Perfect landings - still got a slightly dodgy ankle so landings need to be flat, not too rocky
Not too highball - reasoning as above
All styles considered from steep to slabs, but big moves between reasonable holds preferred
Accessible - particularly interested in harder (7a/b) East grit stuff with short walk-in that can be worked in a short session
Eastern or Western grit
Ideally a few glorious moves strung together rather than one-move wonders

To help - here's some stuff I've enjoyed:

Green Traverse
Deliverance
Satin
Shock Horror Slab
Banana Finger Direct
NTBTA
The Cube (roaches)
Acid Reign (Rivelin)
Staffs Flyer
Four Star (Rivelin)  Landing a bit grim and impossible for me now, but liked the climbing

[Jim]

gorilla warefare and early doors come to mind straight away

[willackers]

The Nose and Breakfast at Burbage West are both good..

[Sloper]

To that I'd add the obvious trackside and the utlimate gritstone experience, plus black nix wall direct, and the bits and bobs around EOTA.

[yorkshirewarcry]

Whay thank you - some good suggestions...especially liking the look of Ultimate Gritstone Experience.  How's the landing?

[Jim]

7 ball burbage south edge, very, very good

[tlr]

7 Ball is excellent.

Marks roof, left and middle at Gardoms.
Zippys at Plantation.
Zafs at Secret Garden.
Case of Mistaken Identity at Apparent North

[lagerstarfish]

That curved arete at Higgar East that Ben Moon falls off on Hard Grit. One move on good holds. Landing is fine once you realise that you always land on the flat bit that looks like it was made for a pad. Short walk. Easy to work - you can traverse in from the right to check out the hold at the end of the big move.

oh look a video of it 



and Conan The Librarian at Mother Cap. 6b ish, flat landing, class. Looks highball, but isn't that high really (especially with 2 pads)

[moose]

The Nose and Breakfast at Burbage West are both good..

The Nose doesn't fit the bill for perfect landings - I've still got golfer's elbow eleven months after missing the crux and smashing my arm against the big rock underneath.  Coming off from the finish would be "interesting" too.

Agree with Marks Roof - the opening moves across the roof are just wonderful fun... shame about the grinding to finish.  The Eagle Stone above Baslow has lots of fun problems around f7a - quite high but with level, grassy landings.  A really nice days ticking.

[yorkshirewarcry]

Some good stuff here...cheers

The Nose definitely doesn't fit the bill due to the landing.  I have a fairly weak ankle so all landings need to be totally flat and ideally grassy, especially if the problem get's at all highball.

Eagle stone ideal...as is Conan the Librarian (already ticked, but sheer class!).  On the subject of the Eagle Stone, just how on earth does one top out that 7b thing?  Any useful beta on that one might save me losing yet more forearm skin on the top of that boulder. if I keep trying it, however, there'll likely be a jug made from my skin up there before too long, so problem solved!

[nai]

The problems on the Boba slab at the Roaches would suit, CP30 is excellent and Spring Slab/Left slab/Boba Left is good while you're there.  Boba Fett also looks good if a little higher and harder, also The Drowning Pool up at Doxey's although that doesn't fit the short approach criteria.

[yorkshirewarcry]

Cheers - I've done C3PO - great problem.  Not done the problems to the left or tight though.  The right hand arete has an un-even/boggy landing if I recall correctly, but the others look good.

[GCW]

The Undercut Dyno at the Roaches is a fun move too.

[fatdoc]

all above good..

do them all!!

sounds like you have the skills / ability


now.. damn that would be a good couple of days!!

[skyscraper]

how about the yoghurt hypnotist at rowtor. probably soft for 7b but good feature and perfect landing.

[Drew]

Plantation: Depends which heel is screwed. If it's the right, then Captain Hook, should be ok. Landing is about 6 inches beneath your back! If it's the left then Zippy's might be out too, due to potential heel faggotry. Possibly The Rose... ?

Burbage North: Banana Finger Reverse (the blocks which are a bit irritating on BF, are too far back to be of any concern), anything at Remergence area.

Burbage South: Electrical Storm, David Traverse, plus anything on the boulders below the crag should have a decent landing.

[Steve R]

The cratcliffe/stride circuit fits the bill pretty well.  T-crack and those stride cave probs fit especially well for the steep with good landings part.  Have a good season.

[nai]

Cheers - I've done C3PO - great problem.  Not done the problems to the left or tight though.  The right hand arete has an un-even/boggy landing if I recall correctly, but the others look good.

That's BobArete with the nasty landing.  Boba Fett is ok and the hard moves look to be low down.  I'd have tried it if I hadn't run out of time on Thursday.

If you make it to Higgar to try the Flying Arete you could also consider Piss.  The landing's neither flat or grassy but is ok with a couple of pads and it's a quality problem.

And just around the corner is a low arête BMaB calls Scratchy Bun Left, it’s 6c from standing but pretty good and probably worth 7a from a sitter.

[Eddies]

Ill tell you again....CHURNET!
Youll love it down there

[butters]

Whay thank you - some good suggestions...especially liking the look of Ultimate Gritstone Experience.  How's the landing?

It's as good as the problem is which is bordering on excellent IMO - you can easily get away with one mat though a second is nice just to pad out the start - give me a shout if you want to get on it soon as it is one my tick list of things to get completed this year and I am particularly syked for this.

[Andy B]

The boulder on which The Ultimate Gritstone Experience, Touch Winky etc. live was found to be unstable recently (by the National Park?). I don't think it has been stabilised yet.

[yorkshirewarcry]

Whay thank you - some good suggestions...especially liking the look of Ultimate Gritstone Experience.  How's the landing?

It's as good as the problem is which is bordering on excellent IMO - you can easily get away with one mat though a second is nice just to pad out the start - give me a shout if you want to get on it soon as it is one my tick list of things to get completed this year and I am particularly syked for this.

I'm keen to do this one, so drop me an e-mail through here and we can sort out a crushing session for next week sometime.  Loads of other stuff at Curbar too...

[yorkshirewarcry]

all above good..

do them all!!

sounds like you have the skills / ability


now.. damn that would be a good couple of days!!

Hmmmm...the "skills and ability" appear very intermittently, then they seem to disappear into the abyss.  Great session out at the Plantation today though repeating loads of hard (for me!) classics....massively psyched for the grit again!

[Andy B]

From October 22nd last year:

The BMC have been received a report that the entire green mile/ ultimate gritstone experience block is unstable:

Quote
As I was doing it, my friend said that the boulder was moving a lot as I went between moves. I then watched as my friend nudged it and it was moving by at least a few centimetres.
 
I have never known a boulder that size that could be moved just by one person pushing it and am worried that it is going to come down one day and kill someone. I don't know if it is heavy rain that has gradually washed away substrate at the base, but, it is definitely a worry.

[Jim]

I better not get on it then

[butters]

The boulder on which The Ultimate Gritstone Experience, Touch Winky etc. live was found to be unstable recently (by the National Park?). I don't think it has been stabilised yet.

Never noticed it moving and there has never been any obvious sign that it is unstable (though I haven't looked that closely) but Sloper has been on it in the last few months so you would have thought that it would have been apparent then if it ever was going to be. 

 

 

[Johnny Brown]

Some guy sent me that report about the boulder moving, seemed a bit far fetched to me but I circulated it around. Haven't heard anyone confirm it since but I have had a few reports from folk who've been and not noticed anything. So I wouldn't let it put you off.

[yorkshirewarcry]

The boulder on which The Ultimate Gritstone Experience, Touch Winky etc. live was found to be unstable recently (by the National Park?). I don't think it has been stabilised yet.

Never noticed it moving and there has never been any obvious sign that it is unstable (though I haven't looked that closely) but Sloper has been on it in the last few months so you would have thought that it would have been apparent then if it ever was going to be. 

 

 

I hear Sloper had been hitting the gym...was this gym-going a result of the boulder being "de-stabilised" while he was trying the problem perhaps? 

[nik at work]

Gin, not gym.

[butters]

According to the man himself he has been hitting the gym but there is no sign of it doing any good yet.

With regard to Sloper destabilising the UGE bloc - I seem to remember that the rumours of it moving pre-dating that but I let him have first go on it anyway just in case it was true so he could go for the flash. 

[Drew]

Where is the Ultimate Gritstone Experience bloc? And does it have The Art of Wearing White Hats on it too? Where are all these amazing problems, which I've only briefly heard rumour of? They aren't in Ru's guide.

[Andy B]

The Art of White Hat Wearing is on the edge towards the far left end. It's on a right facing vertical wall with a rib/ shallow corner running up it.

TUGE block is found by following the wide track along from Trackside quite a long way. Go up at the fork, and it overhangs the track.

[redcal]

Was on U.G.E on thursday, it felt stable and was worth the random trip through the woods. Im not the heaviest of people tho...

[highrepute]

Where is the Ultimate Gritstone Experience bloc? And does it have The Art of Wearing White Hats on it too? Where are all these amazing problems, which I've only briefly heard rumour of? They aren't in Ru's guide.

Think it is in Ru's guide, but only in the text. Have a read. Think you follow the obvious path from trackside along wall and take a right hand fork up hill after a bit. It's right next to a very obvious path so don't be tempted to take any earlier forks that aren't so obvious. Was on it last winter and noticed no instability. Good problem, has to be flashed as doesn't leave any skin for the second attempt.

Recommendations
Jerry's Traverse (cratcliff)
Hemline, Piss, Shit all low, fairly good landings and short walk in.

[dave]

Isn't there some word on the street about that ultimate grit shit thing falling down the hillside or did i dream it?

[BenF]

Isn't there some word on the street about that ultimate grit shit thing falling down the hillside or did i dream it?

No, you probably read it half a dozen posts earlier in the thread.