[John Boy]

Hi Folks,

apologies in advance if this has already been posted (I did search but with no luck).

I'm off to Font in a couple of weeks and am hoping to check out slab/wall problems in the 6c-7a range. Clearly I'm looking for something aesthetically pleasing that leaves me glowing with a sense of fulfilled reward after a mighty tussle, however something more esoteric and over-graded would also be good.

So, any suggestions or pointers towards any particular problems that would help in building a rough potential tick list would be gratefully appreciated.

Cheers.

[dave]

this will sound like a lazy reply, but font really is full off problems 6c-7a often excellent but unheard of. You'll probably get a load of classic problems quote but in all honesty you're best off just going out there with an open mind and seeing what takes your fancy - every crag will have all kinds of stuff none of us will ever have heard of, there's just too many quality problems to list.

[SA Chris]

Some of what you require here http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4415.20.html

[Jim]

any walls on any of the red circuits you will like as well.
I presume you like boney crimps

[a dense loner]

clin doyle at apremont, 7a rib wall easy at grade but treat yourself
black 53? 7a at cuvier, good undercut move up slab
jet set at sabots 7a, old trusty wall

stay away from the wall 7a's at 95.2, they're hard!

[Jaspersharpe]

Dense is right. Mister Proper fucked my back up, proper. Good problem though.

http://bleau.info/95.2/3.html

[Aussiegav]

excalibaur at cuisinere. great 7A.
any of the 7A around cuvier, just for historical context.
but as someone else said, just go for a walk. seek and yee shall find.

it is the best climbing venue in the world. daylight second!!!

[John Boy]

Thanks for the feedback.

Yep, I've been to Font quite a few times now and have visited a lot of areas.

I find at Font, I guess like most, that nearly everything is so good and there is so much that I just run round trying everything.

My thoughts were to perhaps add a little focus to my 'kid in a candy shop' approach.

[SA Chris]

Nah, kid in a candy shop approach is good. Just remember to stop when you feel sick (of failing on the same prob again and again).

[a dense loner]

en vie d'ange 7a elephant, good

[nai]

And have a look at Le Lépreux Direct while you're there.

[Andy B]

I've never heard Dense describe so many problems as good!

[tc]

And have a look at Le Lépreux Direct while you're there.

On your way to which, do La Moreau assis. Outstanding problem.

[neil h]

And have a look at Le Lépreux Direct while you're there.

On your way to which, do La Moreau assis. Outstanding problem.

chorizo http://bleau.info/demoiselles/14456.html

I did this the other day, I normally stay away from routes like this, slab, wall mantle all in the same description, but thought I  would try it anyway, man 5 stars amazing technical gratton fun, with a scary mantle to finish

[Percy B]

My recommendation is Monumendal at Dame Joanne - one of the best problems I did on last weeks trip. 7a+ slab/wall, and absolutely brilliant.

[travs]

And bloody hard for 7a+

[gaston]

Have a look at La Diagonale at Elephant, good problem, 7a+ (7a)
http://bleau.info/elephant/410.html

[Johnny Brown]

Le Rince-doights 6a and Patience Yago 7a at Rocher Greau. Good, and probably both worth 6c..

[Percy B]

Patience Yago gets seconded by me - probably best to do it with more than one pad and a spotter or two though. Top is spicy on your tod - I speak from recent bitter experience!

[Johnny Brown]

Overgraded at 7a? A 6b move to start followed by steady 5c. Top is fine if you take the right line... did you take the ride?

[Percy B]

Fine with a spot - not a bundle of laughs without. Bailed from the last move due to comitment issues. In other words, I thought it best to downclimb and jump onto the pad than to slip off the last move and land on that big boulder behind the problem from 4 metres up. I've got my poor old knees to think about you know!
I would agree that its a total gift for 7a, but the grade is probably been bumped up cos its highball. No problems if you like grit slabs (eh, JB?!) but take a team - then it will feel much more comfortable.

Another softish wall is La Rastouille (Black no 12 on the old Cuisiniere circuit - the one with Excaliber, Beatlejuice, etc. on it). Hard first move then ok with just a shite landing to deal with. Again a spotter or two will make this much more ameanable. A funny block - looks tiny, but as you get closer you realise it starts deep in a hole!

[Johnny Brown]

Thin white duke on Patience Yago:

[neil h]

try the thing to the right 

[Johnny Brown]

The arete? I did the 7b version second go.

[nik at work]

Here you go:

[Jim]

The arete? I did the 7b version second go.

Not another one. poor you...

[Scouse D]

The arete? I did the 7b version second go.

good problem that arete. Easy, but good.

[Duma]

The arete? I did the 7b version second go.

good problem that arete. Easy, but good.

[Johnny Brown]

Agree on the easy bit. Would be a lot better if there wasn't an escape left available after every move.

[fatdoc]

en vie d'ange 7a elephant, good

right, that's it.. Lee says it's good.. its where I want to go (not been for 8 years).. and I'll be gagging for 7a rapid success by next april. no contest, I'm havin it. just tell me it's not a smurf hinderer?

[Jaspersharpe]

http://bleau.info/elephant/2232.html

Looks class. Not sure how I've never seen it before.

[SA Chris]

A couple of UKB regulars have done it too. Looks lush.

[neil h]

http://bleau.info/elephant/2232.html

Looks class. Not sure how I've never seen it before.

crap crap crap. sandy holds, one move wonder with a scary topout up a dirty bit of rock

[Jaspersharpe]

Wasn't missing anything then. 

Is that not the one dense was referring to?

[neil h]

Wasn't missing anything then. 

Is that not the one dense was referring to?

yes and technically speaking its an arete not a wall 

[lagerstarfish]

http://bleau.info/elephant/2232.html

Looks class. Not sure how I've never seen it before.

Coz you were looking at Envie d'Ailes on the same block

[Jaspersharpe]

Good point.

[Aussiegav]

Thin white duke on Patience Yago:

looks like the healey green boulder

[Jaspersharpe]

What time is it there and what have you been smoking? 

[Duma]

A couple of UKB regulars have done it too. Looks lush.

Agree with Neil tho - it ain't all that. The garlic version is far superior.
but at the grade requested here you want to look at coquine blues - bit heightist to start but it's a great move to the pod.

[neil h]

come on duma, you can do better then that, A wierd one move to get of the ground, if you are anything under 6 foot you wont even get of you pad, then go to a jug. what about something like Tour de Garde http://bleau.info/elephantnord/414.html now this is 5 star wall climbing

[SA Chris]

come on duma, you can do better then that, A wierd one move to get of the ground, if you are anything under 6 foot you wont even get of you pad, then go to a jug. what about something like Tour de Garde http://bleau.info/elephantnord/414.html now this is 5 star wall climbing

Apparently "still realzable" though. The mono on that thing looks well nasty.

[Jaspersharpe]

The mono on that thing looks well nasty tasty.

[cofe]

come on duma, you can do better then that, A wierd one move to get of the ground, if you are anything under 6 foot you wont even get of you pad, then go to a jug. what about something like Tour de Garde http://bleau.info/elephantnord/414.html now this is 5 star wall climbing

how come it only gets 4 stars then?

[SA Chris]

The mono on that thing looks well nasty tasty.

Clearly one man's nasty is another one's tasty.

[rodma]

A couple of UKB regulars have done it too. Looks lush.

Agree with Neil tho - it ain't all that. The garlic version is far superior.
but at the grade requested here you want to look at coquine blues - bit heightist to start but it's a great move to the pod.

It's not that heightist, even I've done it. Pulling on did feel a little beefy.

It's def not the greatest prob tho, even at that sector

[fatdoc]

Thin white duke on Patience Yago:

looks like the healey green boulder

is that shot taken with some kind of wide angle lens?

if not.. are the pads in minuture form??

coz it looks like one BIG fall from there...