[The Sausage]

Howdy Y'all,
Have just got back from a very breezy Stanage. I've worked out the start to getting right hand to the big hold at the end of the prow, left on thoses slopers on the left. At this point my right toe is hooking under the other side of the prow, and my left heel is on the good crimps. I can swap toes and move my right... what goes on here? Do you have to get your left heel back on?

Anybody got any vids?

Definite 3 star classic. Visionary stuff Bonners.

[dave]

if you've swapped toes the hook right heel out to end of the prow (caveat: i've not done the problem yet).

[reeve]

I also have the caveat of having not done that, although you know that already as I told you last week.
I also use my right heel, but on a small bump on the same face as your hands. I keep my left foot toe hooking round the back, and bump my RH up to a guppy on the arete. For me it's crucial to then bump my left thumb next to my fingers, and go again with my right.

[Andy B]

 From that position (left heel on crimps right toe under right arete) I matched the rail and held an almighty swing. I have no caveat as I have done it this way. (regarde moi!)

[The Sausage]

Thanks team. Will try the right hand guppy method... I had a feeling that keeping hold of the rail for as long as possible may be a red herring. If not, looks like it could be a case of holding the swing. Will have to practice my Geordie war cry.

[cofe]

for me getting the feet out feels very hard and possibly the crux. awesome prob though. i haven't done it either etc blah.

[Bonjoy]

I used the double toe hook beta. Makes it harder to get the rail but easier to match it and get feet established for finishing arete.

[Andy B]

Will have to practice my Geordie war cry.

How very dare you!

That would be a Makem war cry.