[Ru]

I also bouldered the alternative start (to the right of the normal start) at weekend (apparently Malc Smith did this a few weeks ago in preference to the proper start when he did MM) - anyway, it's also a fun problem in its own right at 7b ish.

[uptown]

I also bouldered the alternative start (to the right of the normal start) at weekend (apparently Malc Smith did this a few weeks ago in preference to the proper start when he did MM) - anyway, it's also a fun problem in its own right at 7b ish.

Try Joint enterprise next time you visit Ru.

[Serpico]

How does this fit in to the above?
http://www.8a.nu/scorecard/Search.aspx?SearchType=ASCENTS&CragName=Kilnsey&AscentName=A%20smarter%20martyr&AscentType=0

[willackers]

I managed to flash to the last hard move last week!, I was gutted because I pulled back on the move and did it 

I was going to come back down and get on it but I've just been told that the small cube hold on the top crux has broken off? 

Is it going back on or is it possible out left?

[Ru]

Possible without, lovely moves, but harder and the redpoint crux is now at the top.

[Stu Littlefair]

I managed to flash to the last hard move last week!, I was gutted because I pulled back on the move and did it 

I was going to come back down and get on it but I've just been told that the small cube hold on the top crux has broken off? 

Is it going back on or is it possible out left?

Will, the hold can't be repaired, so you have to use a new sequence. Similar to how I was trying it the other weekend; up to the undercut with RH, then take the sidepull in the groove with your RH. Get your RF really high and sit on it, and then slap for the hold you damaged with your RH. Try not to pull it off...

[nik at work]

I think your first RH might be a LH?

[willackers]

No worries, glad it's still climbable.

It might be easier for me with my reach?, I'll try not to pull the hold off 

Good effort Stu and Andy! 

[nash1]

Had a beer with Rob G last night and wadded him cos of this thread. He was chuffed. Not surprisingly he couldn´t remember much about MI.

[uptown]

No worries, glad it's still climbable.

It might be easier for me with my reach?, I'll try not to pull the hold off 

Good effort Stu and Andy! 

I think that gents with 3" more reach than me could reach the top jug whilst keeping their feet lower in the break. You definately fit that bill Will, so go forth and crush. I doubt that taller folk could bypass the difficulties on Joint enterprise / A smarter martyr though. Time might tell.
Serps - you know the answer to that really don't you?
Btw - there are no more loose holds on these now. Even the top jug is now solid.
Props again to Rob G.

[Serpico]

Serps - you know the answer to that really don't you?

I think I do now, at the time I suspect I was being a bit slow...
I was a bit confused by the different names of the routes and FAs.

[Ru]

I also bouldered the alternative start (to the right of the normal start) at weekend (apparently Malc Smith did this a few weeks ago in preference to the proper start when he did MM) - anyway, it's also a fun problem in its own right at 7b ish.

Try Joint enterprise next time you visit Ru.

So is this / Smarter Martyr the crimps and flakes about a metre right again?

[uptown]

I also bouldered the alternative start (to the right of the normal start) at weekend (apparently Malc Smith did this a few weeks ago in preference to the proper start when he did MM) - anyway, it's also a fun problem in its own right at 7b ish.

Try Joint enterprise next time you visit Ru.

So is this / Smarter Martyr the crimps and flakes about a metre right again?

Yep.
We (Nik and I) did the boulder problem last year (Je). I linked this into my new finish to mm on Tuesday (Asm).

(reason for edit: not wanting to spoil on-sights or encourage barracking.)

[Ru]

Ok, the vid explains things. The start to Smarter Martyr was what I meant by the alternative start. Nice moves. I slapped left into the jugs (on the normal start) from the right-hand flake rather than go straight up.

[andy_e]

I just spent this entire lecture trying to find out if this Rob Gawthorpe is the same Rob Gawthorpe who is a professor of sequence erratically at Manchester... Is he? Double wad if so.

[andy popp]

And now at Bergen?

http://www.uib.no/persons/Rob.Gawthorpe

Looks like a climber in the photo - anyone (Webbo?) know the original RG?

[Adam Lincoln]

Ok, as i am doing the Kilnsey section of the new guide, what ever happened over the first ascent of the right hand line? I was told Malcolm got the FA? So the boulder problem start was joint FA of Nik and Andy, and the full route FA Malcolm?

[Stubbs]

The very same, he was one of my friend's PhD tutors at Manc, apparently he has gnarly Dupuytrens.

[nik at work]

Ok, as i am doing the Kilnsey section of the new guide, what ever happened over the first ascent of the right hand line? I was told Malcolm got the FA? So the boulder problem start was joint FA of Nik and Andy, and the full route FA Malcolm?

I think, although I wasn't there so couldn't possibly comment, that Malc did half the boulder problem then went out left to join Massala Martyr at the jugs before traversing back right as for Massala Martyr, Andy got the FA of the boulder problem and the route (sticking to the direct line) unless someone else got in there earlier??

[duncan]

And now at Bergen?

http://www.uib.no/persons/Rob.Gawthorpe

Looks like a climber in the photo - anyone (Webbo?) know the original RG?

That's "the" Rob Gawthorpe.  The nose is distinctive!

[andy_e]

Awesome. One of my lecturers has done a lot of work with him, I was surprised when I heard Rob Gawthorpe being mentioned in a lecture!

Please could somebody name a new route on this piece of rock "Taramasalata martyr"?

[willackers]

Ok, as i am doing the Kilnsey section of the new guide, what ever happened over the first ascent of the right hand line? I was told Malcolm got the FA? So the boulder problem start was joint FA of Nik and Andy, and the full route FA Malcolm?

I think, although I wasn't there so couldn't possibly comment, that Malc did half the boulder problem then went out left to join Massala Martyr at the jugs before traversing back right as for Massala Martyr, Andy got the FA of the boulder problem and the route (sticking to the direct line) unless someone else got in there earlier??

Me, Malc and Rob Sutton were all trying the route starting up the new bolder problem with the big slappy move because that's where we thought the route started. I seem to remember Malc doing the boulder problem 2nd or 3rd go then flashing the rest of the route, me and Sutton both did the problem but failed on the route, I managed to flash the problem, I'll never ever forget that because it will probably be the only time I will ever burn Malc off! ha ha! 

I hope that helps clear things up.

PS, we would never have tried the new start if we would have known it was a project, we genuinely thought that was the start of the route.

[Adam Lincoln]

Ok, as i am doing the Kilnsey section of the new guide, what ever happened over the first ascent of the right hand line? I was told Malcolm got the FA? So the boulder problem start was joint FA of Nik and Andy, and the full route FA Malcolm?

I seem to remember Malc doing the boulder problem 2nd or 3rd go then flashing the rest of the route

Cool, cheers Will. Accidental first ascent it is then.  Can you comment on what Nik said about the 'going left'?

[nik at work]

Also worth noting the sqaure right hand hold higher up is now no more, making the top a bit trickier for the tall (or a level playing field for all?).

[webbo]

And now at Bergen?

http://www.uib.no/persons/Rob.Gawthorpe

Looks like a climber in the photo - anyone (Webbo?) know the original RG?

yes I do know the original Rob Gawthorpe and it is he but you already know that by now.