UKBouldering.com

Poll

Well, and when you've voted let us know about how long you've spent in the forest.

4a, old school sandbag
4+ genorousity becuase it's more than 2m
5, how technical is CA?
5+ I need the tick, please?

What grade would Crescent Arete get in Font (Read 20459 times)

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29284
  • Karma: +635/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
As they say in latin tedium, tedium, tedium.

Guess it's a minging day down there as well?

Seems to be from the current mood of the forum.

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4946
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
 :yawn:

Sloper

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • fat and weak but with good footwork.
  • Posts: 5199
  • Karma: +130/-78
It is minging and there's no sign of it changing soon.

Anyway the thread was a response to the NTBTA thread in the beta section.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29284
  • Karma: +635/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
Meanwhile, the weather at the conference in Brighton is glorious according to my brother.

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
It is minging and there's no sign of it changing soon.


Don't know where you are, but looks quite nice outside, admittedly grey and overcast, but cool and windy, good weather for Crescent Arete/NTBTA etc.

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5797
  • Karma: +187/-5
If in doubt, whip the Outside webcam out!

Sloper

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • fat and weak but with good footwork.
  • Posts: 5199
  • Karma: +130/-78
It is minging and there's no sign of it changing soon.


Don't know where you are, but looks quite nice outside, admittedly grey and overcast, but cool and windy, good weather for Crescent Arete/NTBTA etc.

Grindleford and it's still full of clagg, a fine sort of misty dampness.

rginns

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 836
  • Karma: +40/-1
  • Holds innit
    • Strongholds
yeah, rubbishy drizzle up Lancashire way too... >:(

jfw

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 545
  • Karma: +28/-0
  • banananananana
just to add to the tedium - as someone for whom 6a is the top end of their grade repertoire.

i have climbed marie rose (eventually) and have failed to do the last move on pebble arete (through cowardice) and failed to even get on crescent arete (through even more cowardice) - the landings make a massive difference to me - doing pebble arete made me feel i would smash into the botom more slabby bit (so i have downclimbed it more than once from the last move), and looking at CA made my ankles flinch just thinking about the landing.

to add to my own frustration i have had brief flashes of bravery - enough to climb flying arete at the 'clif and manson's wall at shipley, low pebble wall and otley wall at caley. too scared to contemplate the chant as a solo - it would seem i find yorkshire things easier than peak things.

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
It is minging and there's no sign of it changing soon.


Don't know where you are, but looks quite nice outside, admittedly grey and overcast, but cool and windy, good weather for Crescent Arete/NTBTA etc.

Grindleford and it's still full of clagg, a fine sort of misty dampness.
Been the lightest of light spotting in Fulwood, I bet Burbage/Stanage is ok though.

lagerstarfish

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Weapon Of Mass
  • Posts: 8816
  • Karma: +816/-10
  • "There's no cure for being a c#nt"
yorkshire things easier than peak things.

So what grade would CA get in Yorkshire?

and what would Pebble Wall get in The Peak?

ooohh it's so exciting   [bounce]

nodder

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 336
  • Karma: +38/-1
8c

neil h

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1450
  • Karma: +72/-3
  • You think i'm fat
    • sibl
just yo piss you all off, its 22 degrees and sunny in font, has been for the last 3 weeks now and its set to stay, I'm of to do mary rose  ;)

bobkatebob

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 199
  • Karma: +6/-1
I'm of to do mary rose  ;)

Don't tell me,  In your trainers?   :'(

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29284
  • Karma: +635/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
I'm of to do mary rose

Is she the prossie who hangs out at the layby near Canon. Send my regards :)

butters

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Natural Born Punter
  • Posts: 1590
  • Karma: +56/-2
  • Everything's a grade harder hauling these 'burns!!
    • blog of butters
...and have failed to do the last move on pebble arete (through cowardice) and failed to even get on crescent arete (through even more cowardice) - the landings make a massive difference to me - doing pebble arete made me feel i would smash into the botom more slabby bit (so i have downclimbed it more than once from the last move), and looking at CA made my ankles flinch just thinking about the landing.

I too have bottled the last move of Pebble Arete many times but I console myself with the fact that I have got higher on PA than Crescent Arete - like you say the landing on CA is not the most welcoming if you are feeling at your limit or even close to it. I probably wouldn't feel so bad if I hadn't done Pebble Arete LH though but the crux of that is low down in comparison to the RH side (not that it stopped me from falling from the last moves and screaming like a girl on the way down before I did it)...  :(

Sloper - for the sake of sanity on the forum do you want to get out Thursday?

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
I'm of to do mary rose  ;)

Don't tell me,  In your trainers?   :'(

I hope not, its polished enough already!

tc

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 862
  • Karma: +73/-1
looking at CA made my ankles flinch just thinking about the landing.

I broke my leg jumping off Crescent Arete. I just thought you might like to know that for next time you try it.

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
personally I don't think you can compare font to the grit, 2 different types of rock in 2 different climates
The only thing thats needs saying really... however a few points:
I have fallen off CA more than marie rose and done both about similar amount of times and only done marie rose in the stinking heat or in rain, I flashed Beurre Marga yet bent spoon failed. Strawberries is harder and more conditions dependant than all these problems.
Conditions are a myth although less of a myth on the grit.
Jo - Mansons wall is 6c+, much harder than 6a - well done, I thought is was well hard.
I really wanted to write something similar to Lovejoy but somehow didn't
Sloper - you don't half post some toss

Drew

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Am I really a
  • Posts: 1739
  • Karma: +36/-4
Jim, are you on the sauce tonight?  :beer1:  :pissed:


You're not making as much sense as you normally do.

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
I've had a few. Been putting a new screen in my 1000he so have been a bit tense/nervous.
Seems to make perfect sence to me

220bpm

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 99
  • Karma: +3/-0
  • In my lungs, and sometimes up my nose...
    • My pictures
Well as a punter for whom the 6's are treasured ground.....I flashed CA in admittedly perfect November conditions. Its never in a million years Font 5+. Maybe 4+ or 5 at most.

MR was during an Easter break with the beta all sorted out in advance. Got it 5th try I think. If that is 6a (benchmark?) then so be it, but I've failed dismally on harder 5's, many many many many times.

Also La Digitale is Font 5+ apparantly, although its about as hard as one of my morning after the guiness-session poos.


 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal