[Snoops]

I runined my onsight by watchin someone do NTBTA last year. Its my tick for this Autumn, and I want to do it pure, do you finish right on the arete or reach up whenever you can get a hand on top. I ask cause Adam does it nicely the latter way, someone else goes further left. I know it probaly doesn't matter but whats the general consensus.
I don't want be told I haven't done it cleanly as I 've been saving it.

Cheers peeps



Yann Genoux, Not to be Taken Away

[slackline]

Throw a few laps on it and top out at 5cm intervals all along the top then you won't have to worry about not having finished it "properly". 

[Stubbs]

If it helps think of it as a route (as it was when it was first done), it's the easiest way to the top of the boulder on that face, so you finish in the easiest fashion for you.  (This could be a moderately good troll and I need some more caffeine).

[Snoops]

Thanks for the advice.  Its just that it is a rising ramp line, so I thought maybe it should be followed to its endpoint, i.e the arete. I feel moderately stupid for asking now.

[Sloper]

I go much further left than Adam does in that video,

Anyway is it me or does anyone else think crescent arete is way easier than 5+?

[Fiend]

If it helps think of it as a route (as it was when it was first done), it's the easiest way to the top of the boulder on that face, so you finish in the easiest fashion for you.  (This could be a moderately good troll and I need some more caffeine).

Spot on. Surely going left onto the jugs is the easiest line anyway.

[Drew]

I'd suggest a cross between the two, Do the start the way it's done on the Youtube Yann Genoux way, not Adam's semi French-start, but top it out the way Adam does, as it's by far the easiest way. Whatever you do, don't jump start, as the first move is the crux, and if you jump past it, you haven't done it!

[fatdoc]

sod that mate...

it's a route..

climb it.. get to the best bit  of the groove / flake and near the top rock up, grab the top and pull over, sorted.

[tommytwotone]

I've always seen it done (and done it myself) the way Adam does it on the vid - there's an obvious vertical-ish jug near the top, hoik your right foot higher up onto the ramp and then rock it out for the top.

Drew's right about that first move - it's tough, and lot tougher if you're short.

Get it done!

[Snoops]

Many thanks guys.

[erm, sam]

The first move is the hardest and in the modern bouldering style should be done properly, but in the period correct style, it doesn't matter. French start it, climb up the ramp to the rock over to top, or finish at the ramp top proper and be pleased to have partaken in history. If anybody calls you out on in correct style they are embarassing themselves, nobody else.

[Stubbs]

If anybody calls you out on in correct style they are embarassing themselves, nobody else.

I was going to post something similar last night re: Drew's comment, but less eloquently, and with more swearing, bravo!

[Will Hunt]

I know its one of the classics of the plantation but know not much else about the history behind the route. Can anyone enlighten me? Any reason for the name?

[Bonjoy]

I think the words Not To Be Taken Away used to be scratched on to the block somewhere. The block used to be known as the Grand Hotel, a reference to it's use as a bivvy spot for climbers. Was the FA not Gabe Reagan?

[SA Chris]

John Allen Shirley ('sST)

[nai]

FA was John Allen, 1976.

[Jaspersharpe]

Confusion caused by that great photo of Gabe Regan on it maybe?

[nai]

or that he made the FA of another Plantation highball classic, Crescent Arete?

As to the name, I remembered a thread on ukc that explains it, apparently NTBTA was scratched on the photograph block in letters so large they could be read from Hathersage and remained visible for ten years.

[Snoops]

The first move is the hardest and in the modern bouldering style should be done properly, but in the period correct style, it doesn't matter. French start it, climb up the ramp to the rock over to top, or finish at the ramp top proper and be pleased to have partaken in history. If anybody calls you out on in correct style they are embarassing themselves, nobody else.

That's a great post and cuts it's for me. Cheers

[tc]

Would NTBTA really get Font 6c and Crescent Arete 5+ in Font, do you reckon?

[Johnny Brown]

NTBTA would be 6a, and would sport two massive white-ringed black spots on the starting footholds, plus there'd be a bolt on the top and a bunch of painted arrows informing you of a red circuit going up it and a white one going down it and back up the problem to the right.

[tc]

Yeah, man, that's what I reckon.  And after scaring yourself warming up on Crescent Arete, you'd check the blue circuit grades and find it was 4b. I want to start a campaign for proper Font grades in the UK. We can start with these two.

[Sloper]

 

I'd say NTBTA was more like 5+, think 12bis at 91.1 for a reasonable comparison although 6a for the first move or so isn't outrageous.

Crescent Arete 4 and only then because it's bit higher than your average.

Can I also confirm Strawberries as 4+.

[Stubbs]

Yeah yeah yeah NTBTA would be on the orange circuit and CA would barely make it onto the kid's white circuit.  Jeez you guys must really get your asses handed to you in Fontainebleau to think that about the problems at the Plantation.   

[Ru]

A bunch of font climbers including Stephan Denys came over to the Peak a few years ago and did a plantation topo in a french climbing mag. They gave NTBTA 6c and CA 5+.

[slackline]

A bunch of font climbers including Stephan Denys came over to the Peak a few years ago and did a plantation topo in a french climbing mag. They gave NTBTA 6c and CA 5+.

 

[tc]

 

[Bonjoy]

What do ozzies know about grading?

[dave]

Nothing, but they do make pretty good fire engines.