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Llandulas Cave? (Read 4392 times)

Nike Air

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Llandulas Cave?
September 08, 2009, 08:08:09 am
Is this place worth a visit, anybody on here been?? looks ok-ish in the guide and on the site http://northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com/page/Llandulas+Cave but is it really any good??

benpritch

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#1 Re: Llandulas Cave?
September 08, 2009, 08:32:09 am
only if you've run out of other orme venues. thought it was a bit scruffy. no stand out routes.

Doylo

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#2 Re: Llandulas Cave?
September 08, 2009, 10:10:24 am
There are some good routes, probably wouldn't drive from Burnley for it though.

Nike Air

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#3 Re: Llandulas Cave?
September 08, 2009, 04:09:34 pm
only if you've run out of other orme venues. thought it was a bit scruffy. no stand out routes.
No still got a alot to do, just like visiting new crags if they are good.
There are some good routes, probably wouldn't drive from Burnley for it though.
Around there on a haven caravan holiday for our anniversary shortly so thought i may check it out...romantic hey!! but might find some other choices. The Gop.... :)

Bonjoy

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#4 Re: Llandulas Cave?
September 08, 2009, 09:02:50 pm
If Craig Y Forwen is still open for business that's got to be worth a visit. Looks amazing

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#5 Re: Llandulas Cave?
September 09, 2009, 08:49:07 am
I had a day there the other week, it's perhaps a bit below your league but it's nice spot for a visit. The forgtten sun area has some good quarried well bolted routes in the 6a to 6c+ (Stretcharmstrong*) range. 

Lee Proctor rebolted Pump Action 7b(+) routes out of the lower cave and there is some dispute over the grade ranging from 7b+(FA) to 6c+ ???

There's also a 7c and a 7c+ (Mudjakewis) in the upper cave and a good 6c+ called Pearl From the Shell and an overgraded 7b+ (Le Tigre) that's more like 7a+.

Happy Anniversary


Tickler

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#6 Re: Llandulas Cave?
September 09, 2009, 10:12:18 am
Yeh, I cocked up the grading for El Tigre. Oops.

When I graded it last year, there was a lot of lichen on the wall and I did some ridiculous sequence between the 1st and 2nd bolt.

I had another go early this year now it has cleanded, I thought it to be around 7b. I think it would be much easier if you are very tall.

It's worth a visit, especially since you can climb there in the pissing rain.
« Last Edit: September 09, 2009, 10:17:44 am by Tickler »

chummer

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#7 Re: Llandulas Cave?
September 09, 2009, 10:45:38 am
'Tis a little scruffy but some good rock and climbing. 'Prime the pump' is a great and varied little route, it's even got a hand jam, nice! The easy groove to the left of Stetch Armstrong is good too. Upstairs;
Quote
There's also a 7c and a 7c+ (Mudjakewis, ) in the upper cave and a good 6c+ called Pearl From the Shell
ditto all that, very onsight/flashable(Mudjakewis). The retroed E2 to the right of El Tigre is also very pleasant. Enjoy!
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If Craig Y Forwen is still open for business that's got to be worth a visit. Looks amazing
The main central section is still off limits.

Doylo

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#8 Re: Llandulas Cave?
September 09, 2009, 11:46:45 am
Guano onsight has been retroed too giving a very atmospheric 6b, i'm going later.

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#9 Re: Llandulas Cave?
September 09, 2009, 03:27:08 pm

I had another go early this year now it has cleanded, I thought it to be around 7b. I think it would be much easier if you are very tall.

I think 7b is a fair grade. It took me ages to figure out the sequence between the 1st and 2nd bolts and even then it was very sketchy.  Ignore Proctors comments on the wiki about it being 7a as he is 6'7 and lanked the hard bit.

Doylo

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#10 Re: Llandulas Cave?
September 10, 2009, 05:30:33 pm

I had another go early this year now it has cleanded, I thought it to be around 7b. I think it would be much easier if you are very tall.

I think 7b is a fair grade. It took me ages to figure out the sequence between the 1st and 2nd bolts and even then it was very sketchy.  Ignore Proctors comments on the wiki about it being 7a as he is 6'7 and lanked the hard bit.

Did it today, very good. 7b fair

Adam Lincoln

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#11 Re: Llandulas Cave?
September 10, 2009, 09:52:22 pm
Be interested to hear if anyone has done the 7c+ recently. Wirral whip. Did it today via a hard sequence and was wondering if something has come off? Did el tigre as well, worth 7b without any chalk on it I would think.

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#12 Re: Llandulas Cave?
September 11, 2009, 01:27:06 pm
Wirral Whip has had shite gear for ages Adam. Certainly shite enough to keep me off it for years anyway. I actually went to re-bolt it once last year, but thought it looked too crap to justify my efforts  :oops:.
It's funny how some climbs suddenly look ace with shiny new bolts and chalk on them...

Now Lee has done the deed, I'll get over there in the next few weeks to have a go and let you know what i think about the grade.

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#13 Re: Llandulas Cave?
September 16, 2009, 07:48:18 am
Well we popped in at the beginning of our weekend. The place is very interesting, parts of it look quite euro, and its nice to see the sea. The big let down was all the rubbish and broken glass..
Take a torch to explore the caves and someone should see if the upper and lowe caves are linked(beware of excitable moths!!).
The climbing was fine, guano onsight and the 6c opposite are not like anything else i ve ever climbed in the UK.
Be interested to hear if anyone has done the 7c+ recently. Wirral whip. Did it today via a hard sequence and was wondering if something has come off?
Thought this was a fair grade and decent route with a crux you really have to concentrate to keep you feet on the small edges, also sweet to finish over the roof and onto the ledge.

Adam Lincoln

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#14 Re: Llandulas Cave?
September 16, 2009, 10:01:22 am
Quote
also sweet to finish over the roof and onto the ledge.

Hope you did the obligatory one armer  ;)

Doylo

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#15 Re: Llandulas Cave?
September 16, 2009, 11:22:27 am
Be interested to hear if anyone has done the 7c+ recently. Wirral whip. Did it today via a hard sequence and was wondering if something has come off? Did el tigre as well, worth 7b without any chalk on it I would think.

Pete Robins done it not long ago n all

Nike Air

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#16 Re: Llandulas Cave?
September 17, 2009, 12:18:37 pm


Hope you did the obligatory one armer  ;)
[/quote]

only managed six of em, must be getting weak... :thumbsdown:

 

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